Outdoor bouldering can be one of the most rewarding and easily accessible ways to get out on rock. In this new series, we take a tour through different regions of the UK exploring the best boulder problems in the 4s, 5s and 6s.
First up on our whistlestop tour—where else but the Peak District, in many ways the ancestral home of English climbing. Yes, the Peak has been a forcing ground over decades, but it is also perhaps the only place in the UK that is genuinely packed with a variety of venues for the mere mortals among us. It boasts two distinctive rock types, gritstone and limestone (granted – limestone bouldering is not for everyone) and literally thousands of potential problems in this grade range across every angle, style and aspect.
© Rob Greenwood - UKC
Even focusing on a relatively small area, choosing just ten boulder problems was an almost impossible task, with many crags boasting an array of brilliant blocs that all deserve their moment in the sun.
View this as a taster: a geographic breakdown that should encourage you to go and take in some of the undisputable best, and a few not-so-hidden gems. Once you're done, keep exploring—many of the finest problems to be climbed are well off the beaten track.
If you're new to bouldering outdoors, why not check out our helpful UKC explainer on making the transition from gym to crag.
Not to be Taken Away (f6C), Stanage Plantation
The Plantation is, without doubt, one of the most famous and popular bouldering areas in the Peak.
No list of 'top' boulder problems in the UK, or perhaps even further afield, should omit this photogenic rite of passage. It is on the high side for sure, which really only adds to its appeal, but if you can negotiate the fiendish opening moves then the ever-improving rails above should hold no fear for you. Bouldering is always better with friends, though, so bring along a pad-shuffler if you can.
© Ola Stępień, Aug 2015
Crescent Arête (f5+), Stanage Plantation
Can you really start anywhere else? The original classic, high and hard for the grade (whatever that means) and a total 'must-do' (whatever that means!). Superlatives aside, it is satisfyingly rewarding to climb and, like many classics at Stanage and beyond, can be repeated over and over without losing the joy of climbing it.
An honourable mention has to go to Pebble Arete (6A), also at the Plantation. If Crescent Arête seems intimidating, this one is just that little bit shorter and still packs in plenty of thought-provoking movement.
© JamesAlexanderTurnbull, Dec 2018
Banana Finger (f6A), Burbage North
Gritstone at its finest: a definitive classic, yet subtly weird enough to remain satisfying. Go up, go left, go up, go right. Somehow end up basically back where you started! Hips, shoulders, knees, and toes (and some fingers) will likely all be required for a successful ascent.
Eminent Western Grit
Ripple (f6B+), Newstones
A deceptive bloc that packs far more punch than a cursory inspection would suggest. This perfect line at Newstones follows the kind of flowing feature you cannot help but enjoy climbing, though the presence of a line of crimps does not necessarily make it basic. A problem that rewards a clear head and clever footwork right to the end.
© Rob Greenwood - UKC
The Ultimate Gritstone Experience (f6C), Curbar
Did we just put this on the list because of its name? You could be forgiven for thinking so. Luckily for everyone, it is actually a phenomenal boulder problem too. It involves the kind of classic squeezing, fridge-hugging behaviour that leaves you with 'grit rash' – but it's so worth it.
Chip Shop Mantel (f6B+), Rowtor Rocks
No list of gritstone boulders is complete without a bizarre and/or brilliant mantel. Chip Shop makes you work for it, giving lots of good long pulls on a single, attractive juggy feature looping up and round the corner, before the real business begins. There's lots of ways to get both hands and feet up to the right height—all of them committing and none of them secure!
© Rob Greenwood - UKC
Three Pocket Slab (f6A), The Roaches
One of the most-ticked things on UKC for a good reason. Despite the popularity, it's certainly no pushover and it provides an exemplary lesson in remembering that 'it's not over 'til it's over'. Also another reminder (if this list needed any more) that classic boulders and imaginative naming rarely go together!
© Rock Harv, Aug 2020
Shark's Fin (f4+), Ramshaw Rocks
Who says all the best features have to be hard? This distinctive and memorable line is about as friendly as they get, with a nice flat landing, positive holds and flowy, enjoyable climbing. It's one everyone can try, and it's part of a great circuit at Ramshaw in the more approachable grades.
© Mark Collins, Jul 2010
The Ramp (f6B), Churnet Valley
It's not even in the Peak District! The Churnet Valley has hidden away plenty of brilliant boulder problems over the years, waiting for travellers to journey that little bit further down the M6. The Ramp is no exception, an enticing line that looks and climbs more like a Font 7 than a Font 6. At a crag with no shortage of eye-poppingly serious problems (routes?) this is one is surprisingly agreeable—even if it still feels a bit go-ey at the top.
(Dis)honourable mention (Peak Limestone, all of it)
We tried extremely hard to seek out an 'easy' classic on limestone worth recommending, ultimately concluding that it could not be done (at least within the bounds of good access principles and actually enjoyable rock climbing). The conventional wisdom seems to be that limestone lends itself to steely fingers, desperate moves and a sadomasochistic disposition—you aren't missing much!
UKC Staff Recommendations
Alongside the list outlined above we thought we'd add in a few others from a UKC perspective.
A Fearful Orange (f6C+), Gardoms
Whilst it's not a new problem, it never used to get talked about, and still doesn't really—but it deserves to. It's high, but not outrageously so, but has a slightly sloping landing which adds to the excitement and/or terror, depending on how you feel (a few pads and a spotter makes things more managable). The rock is great, the problem is intricate, and the top is unforgettable. Why doesn't it get done more often?!?
Other Gardoms suggestions: G-Thang (f6B+), Pogle's Wood (f6C), English Voodoo (f6C+)
Brad's Arête 'The Presence of Absence' (f6C+), Stanton
Let's throw it out there and say that this is the best Font 6 in the Peak District. Aesthetically it's unmatched, partly because of the problem itself, which is immaculate, and partly because of the tree that's grown in the crack behind it. It's a beauty to behold and climbs brilliantly too.
Other Stanton suggestions: Chicken Run (f6A), Appliance Friction (f6B)
© Jacob amos
Stretch and Mantel (f6C), Roaches
Whilst the name may not be the most imaginative or inspirational, it does inform you of what is required—and you definitely need to do both in order to find your way to the top of it. The stretch isn't easy, requiring some intricate footwork and awkward underclinging in order to make it to the hold which you're then required to mantle, which is something of a shock upon first acquaintance. It's the sort of problem that indoor climbing can't quite prepare you for, as it's just weird, but brilliantly so, and is very gritstone (whatever that means).
Other Roaches suggestions: Three Pocket Slab (f6A) (mentioned above), Joe's Arête (Brown's Arete) (f6A)
© BethShaw, Sep 2019
Conan the Librarian (f6B+), Mother Cap
Mother Cap is visible for miles around, standing proud of the landscape that surrounds it, and as a result calls out to be climbed upon. The word 'iconic' is overused, but it's appropriate in the case of Mother Cap and Conan. The line of Conan goes straight up the centre of its steepest (and best) face and despite having done it many times before, it never seems to feel easy. The breaks, where the holds are, never seem to feel quite as positive as you want and most of your initial forays will be spent piano playing, trying to find the best bits, but that's half the fun of Conan. It's a good one to have a few goes at. Savour the taste, then scuttle off sideways when you eventually reach the top.
© @samtaylorphotos, Apr 2023
Egg Arête (f6B), Cratcliffe
Egg Arete either feels easy or impossible. Its superbly sculpted slopers are at the more marginal end of the spectrum, with very little to grip onto for both hands and feet. It's all about trusting your feet and getting enough height over the holds to press down on your palms. You'll either love it or be infuriated by it.
Other Cratcliffe suggestions: Razor Roof (f6C), Brain Dead (f6C)
© UKC
Perfect Porthole Problem (f5+), Dovestone Tor
The Derwent Edges are the Peak District's finest 'mountaineering circuit', with a great set of problems spanning Hurkling Stones in the south to Back Tor and Howshaw Tor to the north. In between the two lies Dovestone Tor, where the Perfect Porthole problem lies. It's a walk to get up there, but the views and vantage point make it worth it—particularly on a fine spring/summer evening. When it comes to the problem itself, it's always nice when a boulder is defined by an obvious feature and this isn't a feature that disappoints—it is indeed the perfect porthole. Unfortunately the top-out is a little less perfect and it's not over 'til it's over!!
Other Dovestone Tor suggestions: Stingray Arête (f5+), Curving Arête (f6B)
UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Inigo Atkin
Guidebook
Peak Bouldering
Great variety of crags and easy access makes the Peak area the country’s destination for boulderers. The main attractions are the superb and world-famous gritstone edges that stretch from Wimberry in the northwest, through the Eastern Edges and the Central Gritstone, and on to Staffordshire. The bouldering on offer on these is immense and varied, sometimes on the edges themselves, sometimes on the blocks dotted around beneath the crag. There is also some intense and dramatic limestone bouldering in the leafy dales.
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Comments
Interesting article. I'm always curious at lists like this, because I think the idea of "best" is useful in the sense that it reveals what the wider community considers to be aesthetically desirable and so on
Anyway, mostly quite high insecure climbing is apparently what the community considers to be aesthetically desirable it would seem! That and tricky high foot smears. I'd maybe hesitate to agree with the list but it is a view.
Every list has its biases and I've no doubt that this has ours and Inigo's etched into it.
That said, what you've described - insecure climbing, tricky feet, smears - is pretty much quintessential Grit. That subtly of movement, and ease of slipping off when you're not precise enough with your foot placements, is what makes it such a great (and/or frustrating) medium to climb on.
I'd also say that there's never going to be a single list that's 'the list', but I do like the fact that there's lots of lists (just look at the various ticklists/wishlists for a whole load more).
I'm strongly in favour of lists, as an inveterate peurile ticker. I would say though, if you're new to gritstone bouldering, most of this list is going to put the willies up you, so to speak. However, tick them all and you'll certainly come out all the better for it, having had a memorable time.
I look forward to an Everest-esque photo of multiple people hauling themselves up to Dovestone Tor.
Don't tempt me to write another list Chris...or do...
Much like you I'm fully in favour of lists, so the more the merrier 😂