UKC

Does the UK have rocks which are sharp enough to cut through a rope?

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 saturn 04 May 2024

Anyone heard or experienced any rock types in the UK cutting through a new rope?

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 Luke90 04 May 2024
In reply to saturn:

How about this famous example on Elder Statesman?

youtube.com/watch?v=K9Wzx-9JzsI&

It happens, but it's very rare.

 HakanT 04 May 2024
In reply to Luke90:

I guess that depends on how you run the rope over the rock. If it’s done like in the video, Welsh slate, possibly. Dartmoor granite, definitely.

 Euan Todd 04 May 2024
In reply to saturn:

Yes.

 Euan Todd 04 May 2024
In reply to saturn:

To expand on this as I may have been a bit flippant: was attempting Rhinoceros (E2 5c) on Haytor Low man with a mate; second pitch he teetered up the groove then fell off the exit. I held the fall, he was gutted wanted another go. I shouted that I had seen a puff of white as he came off, and would rather lower him to the ground. Once I did, the rope came away in his hands, granite crystal had cut right through a brand new rope. A very good argument for climbing with half ropes, although I'm still not sure if he would have stayed off the deck if that rope had been cut. Pretty sobering day!

 Sean Kelly 04 May 2024
In reply to saturn:

Judging by the number of very frayed ropes I have, rock doesn't need to be sharp to trash a rope, and with enough lateral friction it would not require much weight to actually sever it. A friend borrowed 3 ropes during an attempt on Archangel. All 3 ropes were severed, and he was not very popular after that fiasco!

Post edited at 21:58
 JLS 04 May 2024
In reply to saturn:

>”Anyone heard or experienced any rock types in the UK cutting through a new rope?”

One of the best defences against death while rock climbing is a vivid imagination. The ability to make near constant assessment of what could get you killed in ever changing circumstances is a skill to nurture. Madame guillotine awaits you.


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