UKC

Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.  

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.  Restriction lifted for 2024 as of 27th May

 

 

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
The first in a trio of fine wall climbs fortunately has a misleading name. Start beneath the large yellow-streaked curving groove. Climb up the barnacle-covered lower wall to gain the groove. Follow this to a roof then pull up above to a good hold. Finish up the short wall and blocky corner to belay in the open gully below the clifftop. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, E.Hindle 04/Apr/1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 9 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Took a big fall on this. Crux felt much harder than Keelhaul. Wasn't sure where to surmount the curving roof and didn't see any 'good hold' above, unless Rockfax means WAY above? I went on it's extreme left, above the undercut but crucial blocky hold was greasy. Second go stepped left first and found small but solid micro cam on hidden crack. Had a proper wobble above and only just stuck it. Fairly steady above though, and good gear throughout.
Show beta
βeta: Took a big fall on this. Crux felt much harder than Keelhaul. Wasn't sure where to surmount the curving roof and didn't see any 'good hold' above, unless Rockfax means WAY above? I went on it's extreme left, above the undercut but crucial blocky hold was greasy. Second go stepped left first and found small but solid micro cam on hidden crack. Had a proper wobble above and only just stuck it. Fairly steady above though, and good gear throughout.
GDes 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: where was the lichen? thought this was better than keelhaul. perfect rock, great climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: where was the lichen? thought this was better than keelhaul. perfect rock, great climbing
Adam Lincoln 8 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Where is Keelhaul run out? Or even have loose holds?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where is Keelhaul run out? Or even have loose holds?
daveycrocket 5 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: for what its worth, i think this line is better than Keelhaul, better rock and gear and its not run-out or got loose holds either-
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: for what its worth, i think this line is better than Keelhaul, better rock and gear and its not run-out or got loose holds either-
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I wasn't keen on the lichenous start - this route just doesn't seem as continuous as Keelhaul or Baker's.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wasn't keen on the lichenous start - this route just doesn't seem as continuous as Keelhaul or Baker's.

Logged Ascents

174 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bosherston Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 25 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Strait Gate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

Loading Notifications...