Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter. Restriction lifted for 2024 as of 27th May
Rockfax Description
The first in a trio of fine wall climbs fortunately has a misleading name. Start beneath the large yellow-streaked curving groove. Climb up the barnacle-covered lower wall to gain the groove. Follow this to a roof then pull up above to a good hold. Finish up the short wall and blocky corner to belay in the open gully below the clifftop. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, E.Hindle 04/Apr/1981.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 9 Jun |
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βeta: Took a big fall on this. Crux felt much harder than Keelhaul. Wasn't sure where to surmount the curving roof and didn't see any 'good hold' above, unless Rockfax means WAY above? I went on it's extreme left, above the undercut but crucial blocky hold was greasy. Second go stepped left first and found small but solid micro cam on hidden crack. Had a proper wobble above and only just stuck it. Fairly steady above though, and good gear throughout. | ||
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βeta: Took a big fall on this. Crux felt much harder than Keelhaul. Wasn't sure where to surmount the curving roof and didn't see any 'good hold' above, unless Rockfax means WAY above? I went on it's extreme left, above the undercut but crucial blocky hold was greasy. Second go stepped left first and found small but solid micro cam on hidden crack. Had a proper wobble above and only just stuck it. Fairly steady above though, and good gear throughout. |
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GDes | 29 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: where was the lichen? thought this was better than keelhaul. perfect rock, great climbing | βeta? | |
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βeta: where was the lichen? thought this was better than keelhaul. perfect rock, great climbing |
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Adam Lincoln | 8 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Where is Keelhaul run out? Or even have loose holds? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Where is Keelhaul run out? Or even have loose holds? |
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daveycrocket | 5 May, 2006 |
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βeta: for what its worth, i think this line is better than Keelhaul, better rock and gear and its not run-out or got loose holds either- | βeta? | |
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βeta: for what its worth, i think this line is better than Keelhaul, better rock and gear and its not run-out or got loose holds either- |
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drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I wasn't keen on the lichenous start - this route just doesn't seem as continuous as Keelhaul or Baker's. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I wasn't keen on the lichenous start - this route just doesn't seem as continuous as Keelhaul or Baker's. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)