No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a nest of guls on Truant, please inspect before committing to the route and avoid disturbance.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
Climb the wall right of the crack to gain a ledge on its left halfway up the face. Arrange gear and reach up for the break and continue to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
See Gogarth South 2015
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mmd | 15 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Good route, well protected with cams and offsets | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route, well protected with cams and offsets |
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THE.WALRUS | 7 May, 2021 |
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βeta: great route | βeta? | |
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βeta: great route |
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StuLade | 1 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: HAs shed a small bit of rock at the bottom but still VS 4b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: HAs shed a small bit of rock at the bottom but still VS 4b. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)