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Cuillin Ridge Training Routes - Lakes Based

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 Anhibian 16 May 2024

Making an attempt at the ridge traverse this summer, I'm Lakeland based and it's not difficult to go scrambling after work to build general fitness and confidence over rock.

Ideally I'd string as many scrambles/mod-v diff routes together in one go. One idea is to go up and down Blencathra a few times via Sharp Edge/Hall's Fell.

Would anyone have other suggestions of link-ups please? 

 The Lemming 16 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

I'd suggest getting legwork in and build up stamina for big long walks.

1
 ExiledScot 16 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Langdale: scramble the ravens descent route, up Harrison Stickle, drop to the tarn and scramble up Jakes Rake, head across to Pike of Stickle drop down around to do the scramble back up... then round and down to climb Bowfell Buttress, down and across to scramble up Ill(ill) Crag... you could then loop around back towards Pavey Ark and the Stickles to descend on rocky graded terrain, or just follow the tourist path down Rossetts (tedious). There are other smaller crags en route with shorter scrambles or low grade routes you can add in too, like Tarn Crag by Stickle Tarn.

Post edited at 15:49
 a crap climber 16 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Couple of route suggestions, both starting at wasdale head:

1. Go up styhead pass to the stretcher box, or if its dry enough scramble up spouthead gill (grade 3 if you take all the difficulties). Then head along the climbers traverse to the napes. Thread the needle (mod) and head up one of the ridges, I'd suggest arrowhead ridge (diff if you take the easy start, vdiff going direct). Descend sphinx ridge (grade 2) and do another ridge on the napes,  I'd go for eagles nest or needle ridge (both vdiff). Then continue to the top via Westmorland crags (generally given grade 3 but you can make it harder if you want). Descend whichever way takes your fancy.

2. Go to pikes crag on scafell pike, either direct via the tourist path up lingmell gill or better via styhead pass and the corridor route for more time on legs. Climb crenation ridge (diff) and take the abseil descent. Head over to mickledoor the along rakes progress under the scafell crags. Climb slingsby's chimney (vdiff). Abseil off high man into the jordan gap and scramble out onto Symonds knot. Descend via lords rake, nipping up Castor (mod) on the way past.

Do that in one weekend and you'll probably be ok. You'll need a partner to rope up for the harder bits unless you're very comfortable soloing vdiff. It will be good practice to switch between soloing/moving together/pitching too. The exposure on some of those routes can be pretty intimidating, plus slingsby's chimney can stop people in their tracks if not accustomed to traditional thrutching.

You can make loads of variations on the above. The cicerone scrambles in the lake district north and south books give loads of link ups with options to vary the difficulty level.

E2A! Just looked at your profile, apologies you probably don't need advice from me on whether to rope up or not for any of the above 

Post edited at 16:30
In reply to Anhibian:

Also get used to climbing up to Severe with a rucksack on.

 Pero 16 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Are you planning the ridge in one day or two? 

In reply to Anhibian:

Just get loads of leg work in. Sections of the BG are scenic and contain lots of ups and downs.

 Dunthemall 16 May 2024

Cam Crag Ridge (M) to Intake Ridge (D) and reverse, its a great day out, with optional harder stuff at the base of intake ridge.

Part of the Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) is knowing when to abseil not scramble.

 The Lemming 16 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Ho, and nothing on the mainland UK can even come close to preparing you for the ridge.

Its in a different league. Make sure you pack your Big Boy pants.

The first time I tried the ridge, it spanked my arse and spat me out.

6
 Phil1919 16 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Try and go with enough time to get up and recce bits of the route before stringing it together at the end of your stay. You'll need to be lucky with the weather.

 olddirtydoggy 17 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Start at Coniston and scramble the stream going up to the start of Low water beck. Scramble the grade 3 waterfall up to Low water tarn. From the other side of the tarn go up the grassy bank to the outcrops of rock that scramble you up to the ridgeline. Drop round the base of Dow crag and back up South rake gully to get you to the top of Dow crag. Drop back down to goats water and go for a pint in the Sun Inn at Coniston.

 Exile 17 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Not link ups but -

Get used to big days / long days. If you've got a road bike riding it in the lakes (long and slowish) over passes is a good way to build the stamina with less impact than big mountain days. (This isn't a substitute for hill days, but a good way to build volume.) 

If the climbing pitches (TD gap / In Pin / B Tooth) on the ridge are close ish to you normal lead grade take rock shoes with you, the added weight is marginal.

Link ups - One V. Diff on as many crags as possible in Langdale linked? 

 ExiledScot 17 May 2024
In reply to The Lemming:

> Ho, and nothing on the mainland UK can even come close to preparing you for the ridge.

If you've the fitness to do 30km / 3000m in day, can lead VS, confident on your feet, it's in the bag for anyone. Just go up and down every scramble on Tryfan and Glyder Fach in a day, perfect training. 

2
 The Lemming 17 May 2024
In reply to ExiledScot:

That's a good Benchmark to work towards.

In my yoof, I was leading E2 yet when I came to TD Gap I got a rude awakening to the Scottish grading system. In big boots and wearing a sac, this bit should not be underestimated.

 ExiledScot 17 May 2024
In reply to The Lemming:

> In my yoof, I was leading E2 yet when I came to TD Gap I got a rude awakening to the Scottish grading system.

If you said you had an old guidebook and tried to do Scottish VS somewhere else I'd agree, but everything on the ridge is fairly graded.

Edit, the traverse isn't a walk in the park, but no particularly section is especially challenging or technical, the trick is putting them all together on the day.

> In big boots and wearing a sac, this bit should not be underestimated.

Once geared up to lead the pitch your bag should be nearly empty, and or, give it to your second to bring up. 

Post edited at 07:50
1
 The Lemming 17 May 2024
In reply to ExiledScot:

 

> Once geared up to lead the pitch your bag should be nearly empty, and or, give it to your second to bring up. 

I remember the kit I used on TD Gap as if it was yesterday. A number 3 nut, a 6 nut, few slings and a carb with Italian hitch to belay. I think the Inn Pinn was mostly slings for confidence boosting.

OP Anhibian 17 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Thanks all, 

We'll do it in two days with a bivi, so our training will be with a representatively weighted pack and hiking boots/approach shoes. I've got plenty grades in hand to lead Severe, but need to practise some in hiking boots and a smaller rack beforehand. We don't want to miss Naismiths route out if we can help it! Appreciate gear beta and possible route links, thank you.

May have a couple days to kill in Snowdonia as well so Glyder link-ups would also be good to know.

 Exile 17 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

Gear - I've taken rocks 1, 3, 5, 7 & 9, four alpine draws, a couple of slings and what would be the equivalent of blue, purple & red Dragon cams. 50m half rope. That was plenty.

I've done the ridge twice with a bivi and once as part of the greater traverse in a day. If at all possible I'd get the fitness to do it in a day, it's so much more enjoyable. 

 C Witter 17 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

From Patterdale, solo up Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday, continue to Fairfield, then come down Striding Edge.

Gillercombe Buttress and easy routes on the Napes in a day.

Eskdale via the gorge to Scafell, down Lords Rake, up Slingsby's and back over the summit and down to Eskdale.

Wasdale via Yewbarrow to Pillar, Old West Route, and then on to whatever else you can manage.

Do some fell running.

Go to Ogwen and do a big link up... possibly taking in Yr Wyddfa.

Make your own fun challenges and see how far you can push it.

1
 ExiledScot 17 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

I'd encourage you to think fast and light, not slower and heavy. You have the grades in the bank to cruise the pitches, rig quickly etc.  leaving you plenty time to focus on the navigation. Think hybrid approach shoes /ankle boots more than big walking boots. 

 TheGeneralist 17 May 2024
In reply to The Lemming:

> In my yoof, I was leading E2 yet when I came to TD Gap I got a rude awakening to the Scottish grading system. In big boots and wearing a sac, this bit should not be underestimated.

My approach, since I was on my own, was rock shoes and chalk bag. TD gap was fine with that and hauling my rucksack afterwards.

Kings Chimney was easier so I climbed with the rucksack on.

Inn pinn obviously done without rucksack.

Then approach shoes for the rest of the ridge.  Sod doing slippery severes in walking boots

 Fredt 18 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

On my attempt to do it in a day, (solo), I was very fit, I could climb everything, soloing severes, and stuff in the Alps, till the cows came home.

As a friend commented after I'd abandoned at Coire na Creiche, "your brain was fried wasn't it".
It was.

 ExiledScot 18 May 2024
In reply to Fredt:

That's a good point, there are very few sections where you aren't continually focusing on your feet or the route. No strolling along flat plateaus day dreaming. It's always good to get to the end, freshen up, order your bar meal and drink, then stare into space for 30 mins unwinding, as it is fairly intense to do it in one push, especially solo. 

 The Lemming 18 May 2024
In reply to Anhibian:

For the best chance of success, the best bit of kit to take, is bring somebody who's done the route before.

It's a maze up there that can sap your time, concentration and endurance long before you make it to the other end.

And remember, it's only a measley seven miles long.

Try not to think that there are 11 Munros along the way.

 Mike-W-99 18 May 2024
In reply to ExiledScot:

I wore my gardening trainers, comfy and no sole left so great for anything technical.

The thing about the ridge is it’s greater than the sum of its parts. None of it’s particularly difficult but linking it together efficiently is a bit of an art.

We used the Rockfax topo and it was spot on for the section with no munros which we’d never done before.

Post edited at 17:38
 Fiona Reid 18 May 2024
In reply to ExiledScot:

Agreed,  we did a day traverse.  We got lost in the mist so lost a good 90 mins due to that. Had to bypass the TD gap as it was dripping wet. 

We wore trail / approach shoes. Rock shoes for Naismiths at the end. Scared myself witless leading King's Chimney in trail shoes in the wet. If you've carried rock shoes use them! 

None of the moves are hard.  Keeping going and keeping concentrating for many hours is pretty tough. There's very few hands in pockets sections. 

Given how heavy my very minimalist sack was with 3l of water added if you can avoid lugging the bivvy gear and go for a day traverse you'll likely have a much more pleasant experience. Scrambling with a heavy pack is simply knackering. 


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