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Climbs 18
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces W
Crag features
Two buttresses on the beach - North Butrress and south Buttress 200m further along.
Approach notes
As you see the first houses in Melvaig there is a sheep pen on the right. Park carefully about 200 meters further on and head steeply down to the crag. Make sure to take correct track. Next track north (sheep track) is off a private road. Owner does not like it being used as part of that croft.
| The crag has a lovely aspect, but sadly that’s where the compliments end. The majority of the hangers are significantly rusty and surely compromised, mainly in the northern buttress, although the lower offs at the south end all seemed to have their own issues. The only route we tried was extremely loose and unsafe. I could have pulled off any number of key flakes and blocks, if they were not carefully avoided. The general bolting leaves an air of question-ability, but certainly all of the hangers (there are some staples that have fared better or are newer) are a concern, as are all of the lower offs. One route has a single lower off ring and others were chained together in a configuration which produced an acute angle, so much so one snapgate attached to the 2 lower off hangers was sideways while in situ. Climbing is naturally a dangerous activity, and each to their own, but IMO the area needs significant re-bolting and trundling. Pu11y - 01/Jun/24 |
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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