Alex Waterhouse has climbed Never Ending Story (f8B+) (Font 8B+) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. First climbed by Chris Sharma in 2003, the power endurance testpiece links an 8A+ into an 8A on stunning water washed granite.
Alex described climbing the problem as 'a proper marker' of his progression as a climber. He first tried the boulder on a trip to Magic Wood four years ago and was unable to complete either of the two sections. Two years later, he struggled on the individual sections, before putting some effort into the full line a year later. Alex told UKC:
'To get the full line done this year felt like the culmination of my time in the wood over the last few summers. I vividly remember thinking these blocs were so far outside my wheelhouse that I'd never do them, but now my climbing has come along so far that I can link them into each other. It's definitely the feeling of progress that I strive for in all parts of my climbing, but it's rare for me that it's encapsulated so well by a single boulder.'
Once the EU borders were open, Alex hopped in his van and drove out to the Frankenjura to test his lockdown training. He quickly dispatched Superskunk (8c) and Intercooler (8c) on his second and third attempts respectively. He also ticked The Last Rites (8c+) before heading down to Magic Wood.
As soon as he arrived, Alex reacquainted himself with the moves on The Never Ending Story, quickly repeating both sections and linking between the two. A monster 6-hour session ensued in which he came close, although it left him feeling quite broken the following day:
'I spent the day convinced I would be resting, but by the evening the psyche was brewing, and I went out with the intention of limiting myself to 4 goes from the start. I warmed up as the sun was going down and pulled on just as it got totally dark and was able to dispatch it first go of the night.'
Alex joins a list of strong Brits who have climbed the problem, including James Squire, Nathan Phillips and Billy Ridal. He plans to spend the summer in areas like Innsbruck, Arco and Ceuse, capitalising on his good form.
The past couple of years have seen Alex go from strength to strength. Last year he spent some time at Rumney in New Hampshire where he ticked Dave Graham's micro 9a, The Fly, as well as China Beach (8c) and Livin' Astroglide (8c+). Back in May of this year, he made the second ascent of Tom Randall's Font 8B roof crack – The Kraken – at Hartland Quay.
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