New content at UKClimbing.com this month

by UKC News Jun/2008
This article has been read 3,362 times
This month we've got 38 new articles, 7 product announcements and 6 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

Featured articles

Gravediggers E8 6c - An accidental on-sight attempt 26-May-08
[The Author - scared (as usual), this time at Gogarth, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

I was supposed to be doing Grond E2, but instead found myself facing the crux of Gravediggers E8 on the other side of the valley. Looking down at the fall, checking the runner, it looks too far. Will I hit that buttress? Will the wire hold me? God, I should have backed it up. Shit. Why didn't I back it up? Why did I climb this high? ...

@ full article or forums discussion

PREVIEW: Climb Magazine - the June issue 21-May-08
[Climb cover June, 3 kb]by UKC Articles

Check out what's in the June issue of Climb Magazine. Including: Andy Cave profile, climbing at the Burren on the West coast of Ireland, Andy Sharp takes us to South East Wales in Stomping Grounds, expeditions for mere mortals and enter this month's competition for your chance to WIN one of 15 DMM Renegade Harnesses RRP

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Melloblocco 2008 30-May-08
[The Mello Valley on a Busy Day 2, 4 kb]by Pete Hill

The Melloblocco bouldering competition, has evolved over a few years from attracting a small number of climbers to an international event drawing in a crowd of over 1,500 people in 2008. ...

@ full article or forums discussion

Training - Why Bother? 27-May-08
[Performance Rock Climbing by Goddard and Neumann, 3 kb]by Simon Lee

As an expert on avoiding and loathing training the question of 'how to train' is to me overshadowed by the far more important question of 'why bother in the first place'. Most of us train because we do not have unlimited time and/or access to rock. We train to either stay in shape or improve for when we are allowed to go climbing... Simon Lee...

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Matt Szafran 28-May-08
[400x600px banner, 4 kb]by mszafran

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Matt Szafran.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Steve Kirman 28-May-08
[banner 3, 4 kb]by Steve Kirman

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Steve Kirman.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition; Adrian Botting 26-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - Botting #3, 2 kb]by nniff

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Adrian Botting.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: John Banks 26-May-08
[Petzl Nomic ice axe, 2 kb]by banx22

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by John Banks.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Andy Sinclair 26-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - Andy Sinclair #3, 2 kb]by sincybabes

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Andy Sinclair.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment banner comp: Ramon Marin 23-May-08
[Lyon Equipment banner comp #2, 3 kb]by Ramon Marin

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Ramon Marin.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Charlie Rowat 21-May-08
[Charlie Rowat, 3 kb]by Charlie Rowat

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Charlie Rowat.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Craig Letham 21-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - Letham #3, 4 kb]by Craig Letham

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Craig Letham.

@ full article or forums discussion

UKC Features

The Eiger Nordwand Revealed: Rainer Rettner Interview 20-May-08
[Toni Kurz (left) and Anderl Hinsterstoißer, seen here in the Bavarian Alps., 3 kb]by Kate Cooper

Rainer Rettner has been researching the Eigerwand for most of his adult life. The documents he has gathered form one of the most extensive archives of Eiger material in the world. Last year he published a joint work with Daniel Anker on the Corti affair which dramatically redeemed Corti's reputation. Rettner's latest book 'Eiger - Triumphe und...

@ full article or forums discussion

Finding Crag X - A top secret diary, by Fiend 20-May-08
[Fiend in action on the new routes, 2 kb]by Fiend

This document contains highly sensitive information and should be destroyed after reading. If there is a risk of a security compromise, it should be destroyed before reading... Fiend and The Pylon King discover a new crag and set about developing it before anyone else can.

@ full article or forums discussion

Guest Editorial - Motivations? by Nick Bullock 19-May-08
[Nick Bullock, 1 kb]by Nick Bullock

In this passionate and thought-provoking Guest Editorial, super-Alpinist Nick Bullock tells us his thoughts on image, ego and motivations.

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The Best of the Best - VS routes in the Lake District 19-May-08
[Renny Croft on Medusa Wall (VS) Esk Buttress, 2 kb]by Tom Ripley

Many climbers believe that VS is the first, and the finest, climbing grade. There are many stunning routes at all grades, but VS is where climbing really begins; you have to think not only...

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My Eiger North Face Story 13-May-08
[Jim having a well deserved rest on the summit of the Eiger, 2 kb]by David Gladwin

Sometimes in life it's good to set a goal, something that takes planning, is measurable and achievable. For me I cope with the humdrum of everyday life by creating a personal challenge,...

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ACCIDENT REPORT: Please don't tell my Mum 08-May-08
[Smith's Route, Ben Nevis: picture shows the leader at the point from where the second hit the ground 60m down, 2 kb]by Mike 'Twid' Turner IFMGA Guide

During a brief visit to Ben Nevis in early April I was involved in an incident while climbing Smiths Route. The accident I was involved with highlighted a few issues about winter...

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I Want That Job! - Lucy Ham - Sales and Marketing: prAna 06-May-08
[Lucy Ham on Haste Not VS, White Ghyll, Langdale, Cumbria, 4 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

In this article series I Want That Job! I'll be interviewing people from various professions within the climbing world. It's the turn of Lucy Ham who works for Beyond Hope the UK distributors of prAna, Metolius and Evolv. Lucy used to work for the North Face but has now graduated to working for...

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New content at UKClimbing.com last month: April 2008 06-May-08
[Chris Sharma giving all during an attempt on his Santa Linya  project Nehandertal (9b?)., 3 kb]by UKC News

A summary of all the latest content on UKClimbing.com from the past month, including: 8 new articles, 8 product announcements and 2 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

@ full article

Rock Destinations

Indian Creek USA - Destination Guide 16-May-08
[Jonas Wiklund on an unnamed 5.11, 2 kb]by Jonas Wiklund

Few rock climbing destinations have as unforgiving climbing as Indian Creek. Smooth red desert sandstone offers nothing but clean-cut fissures, separated by swaths of absolute blank rock. Face climbing skills are nigh-on irrelevant, and before you have mastered any given width of crack every single move on cracks of that width is equally...

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Destinations In The North York Moors 16-May-08
[New Dimensions, Scugdale, 3 kb]by Franco Cookson / Dave Warburton

A whirlwind tour of the best routes and boulder problems that this overlooked area of British climbing has to offer. Solitude, great rock, stunning moorland vistas and real ale pubs. The North York Moors should be on your destination list.

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Competitions

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Erik Brignall 20-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Brignall #3, 3 kb]by erikb56

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Brignall.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Frank Booth 20-May-08
[Protect and Survive #3, 3 kb]by Frank Booth

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Frank Booth.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Virgil Scott 19-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Scott #3, 2 kb]by Virgil Scott

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Virgil Scott.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Iain McKenzie 19-May-08
[banner 3, 2 kb]by BigMac

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Iain McKenzie.

@ full article or forums discussion

@ more articles...

...Competitions

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Henry Loveless 16-May-08
[400x600, 2 kb]by Henry Loveless

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Henry Loveless.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Mat Sayer 16-May-08
[Petzl Bug, 2 kb]by mat098

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Mat Sayer.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Sarah Roberts 15-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - S ROBERTS #4, 3 kb]by spuddy

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Sarah Roberts.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Pete Edwards 15-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Edwards #2, 3 kb]by lafate

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Pete Edwards.

@ full article or forums discussion

prAna PHOTO COMPETITION: Climbing Facial Expressions 15-May-08
[Bridget, Dave and Adam after a good day at Tophet Wall, Great Gable., 4 kb]by Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com

This is your chance to win some prAna clothing just by submitting some photographs at UKClimbing.com and in the process learn more about photography, show off your creativity and learn what images appeal to viewers. You can submit as many photographs as you like on the theme of "Climbing...

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Daniel Lane 14-May-08
[advert 3. 800x300, 3 kb]by dan lane

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Robert Walker 14-May-08
[400x600, 3 kb]by walkerrm

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Robert Walker.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Alan Tait 13-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - TAIT #3, 2 kb]by Alan Tait

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Alan Tait

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Dave Lewis 13-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - Lewis #3, 18 kb]by Dave Lewis

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Dave Lewis

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Saeed Hasheminezhad 09-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition-Hasheminezhad #2, 1 kb]by Saeed Hasheminezhad

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Saeed Hasheminezhad from Iran.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Simons 09-May-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Simons #4, 2 kb]by Rossco80

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Ross Simons.

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Keith Llewellyn 06-May-08
[400 x 600 Petzl advert, 3 kb]by guitar-keith

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Keith Llewellyn

@ full article or forums discussion

Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
VIDEO: Underpants and Knicker Crisis 31-May-08
[Patagonia, 3 kb]by Patagonia

It's a global underwear crisis! Patagonia special agent Timmy O'Neill sets off for Tokyo in a ridiculous green undie suit, committing one cultural blunder after another, on his mission to...

@ full item or forums discussion

Lofoten Rock 28-May-08
[Lofoten Rock from Rockfax, 3 kb]by ROCKFAX

The latest book from Rockfax covering the magnificent granite walls of the Lofoten Islands in to the north of the Arctic Circle in Norway. 320 pages covering some of the most impressive rock formations in Europe and sure to become one of the major climbing destinations over the next few years.

@ full item or forums discussion

Thatcher 20-May-08
[Thatcher, 1 kb]by

The Thatcher retails at £60 and is a perfect example of Patagonia Footwear's dedication to the environment as they are vegan friendly and are a part of the Smart Step which indicates that...

@ full item or forums discussion

Hanwag Approach GTX 16-May-08
[Hanwag Approach GTX, 2 kb]by Rosker Ltd

An approach shoe that really is... an approach shoe. Lightweight, sturdy, absolutely perfect for scrambling. And it looks good, too. Gore-Tex lining, special climbing last, high friction...

@ full item or forums discussion

Tri Cams: two new sizes 16-May-08
[The two new smallest sizes of Tri Cam, 1 kb]by Allcord Ltd

Since their introduction to the market over 20 years ago, Tri Cams have proved to be some of the most versatile pieces of rock pro on the planet. Now with the addition of two brand new...

@ full item or forums discussion

Armour Helmet 10-May-08
[The new Armour Helmet from C.A.M.P., 2 kb]by Allcord Ltd

The new Armour delivers a precise fit, superior protection and a striking look all at great value. It has a new lightweight moulded thermoplastic shell with side ventilation. A fast and secure adjustment system with a ratcheted wheel system makes the helmet ready to use. Available in five lively colors to suit all tastes. Headlamp compatible.

@ full item or forums discussion

EtaExpress Stove 10-May-08
[The Primus EtaExpress Stove, 2 kb]by Rosker Ltd

Swedish stove specialist Primus has been researching in the field of fuel efficiency for quite some time now. With the introduction of the EtaPower EF stove in spring 2007, Primus accomplished an increase in efficiency from the usual 40 to 50% up to an incredible 80%. That means lower fuel consumption and therefore less environmental...

@ full item or forums discussion

Gear Reviews
Independent reviews from the UKC gear testers
Cut me some slacks – Prana Stretch Zion Pants 30-May-08
[Cut me some slacks – Prana Stretch Zion Pants. #1, 1 kb]by Tom Ripley

Like everything else these days, there is a wide selection of climbing trousers on the market. I've had a fair few, ranging from the ridiculous to the sublime, a glance through my wardrobe would reveal: Ronhills, Lost Arrows, S7s, Mammut Champs, and various pairs of Prana and Patagonia. All of these work, but if I'm heading out for a...

@ full review or forums discussion

Women's Lifestyle/Performance Tops and Pants 20-May-08
[PS1, 3 kb]by Jo George

Jo George takes a look at selective items from Marmot's Women's Lifestyle and Performance range including the Powerstretch Half Zip Fleece, the Women's Bliss Capri Pant, the Women's WW Capri, the Fantasia Sport Top, Lost River Sports Tank and the Women's Vogue Tank.

@ full review or forums discussion

Women's DriClime Catalyst Jacket 20-May-08
[Driclime, 2 kb]by Jo George

Marmot say this jacket has been designed for backpacking, hiking, high aerobic sports and what the Yanks call 'urban' use. I've found it to be a great multi-function item which has easily become one of my favorite garments during the time I tested it. I've worn it for climbing, biking, running and general street wear and it's performed really well...

@ full review or forums discussion

Creature Comforts - Mescalito 05-May-08
[Red Chilli Mescalito #1, 2 kb]by Tom Ripley

Until very recently I believed that you couldn't climb hard without super technical rock shoes. This is a result of staring at too many pictures of Dave Macleod, cranked into tiny rock...

@ full review or forums discussion

SnaPack Tarp 05-May-08
[The Snapack: enough for a days cragging., 4 kb]by TobyA

A cragging pack with a difference. Put on the ground, the SnaPacks are used like multisports bags and the opening gives a direct access to the global area of the bags. Padded and preformed...

@ full review or forums discussion

Eiger - Triumphe und Tragödien 1932-1938 by Rainer... 02-May-08
[Anderl Heckmair, with Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek made the first ascent of the Eiger North Face., 3 kb]by violentViolet

The story of the early attempts to climb the Eiger North face has been told many times, and is full of heroism and mythology, not least because the most famous account, “The White Spider”, was written by Heinrich Harrer, one of those on the first successful ascent. When I first heard about Rainer...

@ full review or forums discussion

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