VIDEO: Jack Geldard on sighting Surgical Lust - E7 6bFeb/2009
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He briefly described this day out climbing in the UKC article: On Sight - The Other Side of the Lens
The clip is an out-take from the film On Sight. During the making of On Sight, Alastair Lee, the man behind Posing Productions climbing films, captured hundreds of hours of footage of British climbers on hard traditional routes.
Most of this footage didn't make the final cut of the film, as Alastair worked hard to create a film that had a story, and chose carefully from his collection of routes, leaving him with a collection of unseen clips.
This route: Surgical Lust, was first climbed in 1987 by Paul Pritchard and graded E7 6b. Jack estimates the difficulties as F7a+/F7b and thinks it would get a danger rating of X, having snappy holds and very poor protection.
Surgical Lust - 30 Metres - E7 6b
"One of the most strenuous routes in the Pass. Up and right of King Wad is the large groove taken by Cheron. This fine, severely overhanging test-piece, which is "massively serious", tackles a line based on the crack in the impending wall left of Cheron's blunt left arête. Follow the line of the crack (two pegs), climbing the wall either side of the crack as necessary. The climbing is extremely serious up to the first peg: it is also still quite possible to deck it from 21 metres."
You can watch a trailer for the film On Sight on the Posing Productions Website.
Warning: This clip contains swearing.