How to succeed in bouldering compsby Charles Arthur Feb/2001
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(all pictures courtesy Southern Indoor Bouldering League.)
Cold, wet, windy... it's the season for indoor bouldering competitions again, as a quick glance at the news section will show. You know where to go and when, but if you're never entered, or been to a couple and felt disappointed, what's the way to do best? Here's your guide from someone who's been doing it for five years.
If you haven't been to a bouldering competition, here's what to expect: there will be about 20 problems, of increasing difficulty. You will get a few goes (usually three) to complete them. Friends can suggest helpful things like "Grab the hold!"
You'll have a card you take to judges at each problem, and they mark you according to how you do. In the Southern Bouldering league, for example, you get three goes: if you complete the problem first time you get 10 pts; second time, 7pts; third time, 3pts. Some problems have "bonus" holds - reach those and you get an extra point. (They're usually disgustingly hard.)
Now you know that, what's the best way to get the most marks you can?
Charles Arthur has been flailing away, but gradually improving, in the Southern Bouldering League for five years and has the T-shirts to prove it.
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