Self Rescue for Climbers - Escaping the Systemby Steve Long Feb/2011
This article has been read 30,166 times
In part 2 of this short video series, Steve Long shows how to escape the system.
Part 1 - Tying off the Belay Plate
Having locked off the plate (see Self Rescue for Climbers - How to Tie Off a Belay Plate), you can now connect the casualty or stuck climber directly to the belay anchor so that you are now freed from the safety system - ensure that your anchors can take the direction of loading that will ensue.
Attach a prusik loop to the live rope using a reliable prusik knot such as a klemheist. This can be connected back to the belay anchor using a long sling, then tensioned by sliding the prusik as far down the live rope as possible. The belay device can now be carefully released and slack paid out to check that the prusik is holding the load without slipping. The brake rope should now be fixed directly to the anchor using an Italian (M¸nter) hitch and removed from the belay plate. Finally tension the rope and tie off the hitch with a couple of half-hitches (ìM¸nter muleî)
Anchors Out of Reach
If the belay is not a convenient central anchor point, but consists of one or two anchors beyond arm's reach, escaping the system involves a couple more steps. Attach a sling to the belay ropes using a klemheist and join this to the prusik. Having escaped the system you can secure the live rope by tying an overhand knot on a bight below the klemheist and then fixing a M¸nter mule to a karabiner clipped into the loop. The anchors can now be equalized using slings to create a central anchor point. Connect the live rope back to this and if necessary all the rest of the rope can now be stripped from the anchors to be used for a rescue.
Aimed at recreational climbers, Self Rescue for Climbers is a comprehensive guide to solving problems encountered in such situations as multi pitching in the mountains, sea cliffs or roadside crags. The DVD's format enables the viewer to access relevant information quickly, providing a basic toolbox of techniques which can be applied in any situation.
With scenarios filmed on famous climbs in locations including Malham, Gogarth, the Llanberris Pass and Tremadog, Self Rescue for Climbers is not only 90 minutes of expert instruction, but also a stunning tribute to the possibilities available to the recreational climber in North Wales.
In part 4 of this short video series, Steve Long shows how to prussik up a rope.
"The ability to climb a rope is most likely to... Read more
In part 3 of this short video series, Steve Long shows how to lower a climber past a knot.
"...Lowering a heavy person down... Read more
In part 1 of this short video series, Steve Long takes a look at tying off a belay plate so that you can get both hands free - an... Read more
Our UKC Forums are infamous famous for attracting discussion on all sorts of climbing and non-climbing-related topics. Where else... Read more
UKC User Charley gives an eloquent and very brave insight into his experience of climbing and M.E. (Myalgic... Read more
Erika Shorter of Uniform takes a look at the future of technology within climbing and other adventure sports. Does technology... Read more
|Wanted: tremadog steve long Feb-16|
|Self Rescue Apr-15|
|Alpine Skill Lectures: Calum... Feb-15|
|Gear left on Smith's route... Jan-15|
|Self rescue hauling Jun-14|
|Self Rescue techniques for high... Mar-14|
|Self rescue training courses -... Mar-14|
|Self Rescue Problem Feb-14|
|List more discussions...|