How to pass a knot on an abseilby Steve Long Jul/2011
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Join the ropes with a knot that includes a fixed loop, allowing you to clip into the loop as a back up while you change over. Place the back-up prusik above the belay device and connected to the harness by a sling. The length is fairly critical because if the sling is too long, it's the devil's job to unfasten the prusik (because you can't reach it) once you've transferred from one rope to the next.
The routine is as follows; abseil to within half a metre of the joining knot, lock off the prusik and transfer your device to the other rope. Once transferred, lock off the abseil device and release the prusik. This may be quite difficult; if it's stubborn, use a second prusik to make a foot-loop. Step up using this to un-weight the jammed prusik and unclip/release it. The foot-loop prusik can then be attached to your harness leg loop as the new autobloc.
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