Join the ropes with a knot that includes a fixed loop, allowing you to clip into the loop as a back up while you change over. Place the back-up prusik above the belay device and connected to the harness by a sling. The length is fairly critical because if the sling is too long, it's the devil's job to unfasten the prusik (because you can't reach it) once you've transferred from one rope to the next.
The routine is as follows; abseil to within half a metre of the joining knot, lock off the prusik and transfer your device to the other rope. Once transferred, lock off the abseil device and release the prusik. This may be quite difficult; if it's stubborn, use a second prusik to make a foot-loop. Step up using this to un-weight the jammed prusik and unclip/release it. The foot-loop prusik can then be attached to your harness leg loop as the new autobloc.
Aimed at recreational climbers, Self Rescue for Climbers is a comprehensive guide to solving problems encountered in such situations as multi pitching in the mountains, sea cliffs or roadside crags. The DVD's format enables the viewer to access relevant information quickly, providing a basic toolbox of techniques which can be applied in any situation.
With scenarios filmed on famous climbs in locations including Malham, Gogarth, the Llanberris Pass and Tremadog, Self Rescue for Climbers is not only 90 minutes of expert instruction, but also a stunning tribute to the possibilities available to the recreational climber in North Wales.
In part 4 of this short video series, Steve Long shows how to prussik up a rope.
"The ability to climb a rope is most likely to... Read more
In part 3 of this short video series, Steve Long shows how to lower a climber past a knot.
"...Lowering a heavy person down... Read more
In part 2 of this short video series, Steve Long shows how to escape the system - another essential step in crag self rescue. Read more
We asked Niall Grimes to give us a run down of his favourite podcasts which he has recorded, since he started the popular 'Jam... Read more
Earlier this week we reported that Pete Whittaker had made an 'all-free' rope solo ascent of on El Capitan. The route took him... Read more
A year ago, we posted an article 'Shaking Out: Climbing with Parkinson's' by Chris Hamper. He was diagnosed with Parkinson's... Read more
|What's In Your Climbing... Nov-16|
|Wanted: tremadog steve long Feb-16|
|Self Rescue Apr-15|
|Alpine Skill Lectures: Calum... Feb-15|
|Gear left on Smith's route... Jan-15|
|Self rescue hauling Jun-14|
|Self Rescue techniques for high... Mar-14|
|Self rescue training courses -... Mar-14|
|List more discussions...|