More Articles Like This
A traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye is a classic expedition that many people aspire to.
What many people underestimate is... [ full article ]
Bruce Goodlad shows us the classic North Ridge of the Piz Badile, Bregalia, Switzerland.
"The North ridge of the Piz Badile has... [ full article ]
In this regular feature from the British mountain guides, Al Powell from Alpine Guides shows us 'The Pico Padierna circuit',... [ full article ]
Popular Articles Right Now
In April 2014 16 Sherpas were killed in an avalanche on Everest. In a series of articles Everest operator Russell Brice looks at... [ full article ]
UKClimbing.com content in June 2014 2 Jul 2014
A summary of all the latest content on UKClimbing.com from the past month, including: 20 new articles, 42 product announcements... [ full article ]
The Five Best E2 Routes in the UK? 2 Jul 2014
Duncan Campbell picks his top E2 climbs. From the crumbly Mousetrap to the epic Prophecy of Drowning...
But wait... why... [ full article ]
Related UKC Forum discussions
In this regular feature from the British Mountain Guides, Tim Blakemore from Northen Mountain Sport shows us the classic Colton-Brooks on the North Face of Les Droites, France.
Colton-Brooks is a great line which links logical and aesthetic ice runnels up a huge face. Fully living up to its 'Grande Course' status a team will have to employ swift tactics to ensure they keep within guidebook time.
Approach: In the 'off season' the Grands Montets lift is often closed for maintenance which means a walk from the valley. This shouldn't put you off as it's a varied and interesting hut walk. Start from the ski resort of the Grands Montets and follow the pistes past the Lognan Hotel. From here the moraines and then glacier proper are followed (including a section on ladders which can be very icy). Allow 5 hours to the Argentiere Refuge (Winter room when unguarded).
Route Summary: The Colton-Brooks is objectively safe with little rockfall and no serac threat (though the descent gully can be prone to rockfall).
Tactics: Like all alpine climbing, tactics and strategy are important. The face can be reconnoitred from the Col de Montets (with binoculars) to ascertain its condition (or check UKC!). Whilst a proper alpine face it lends itself to 'single push' tactics and there are few good bivouac sites. Many parties now climb (with a good forecast) without bivouac kit and carry out the descent to the Couvercle hut in a single outing. You should be familiar with climbing simultaneously over technical ground with your partner to ensure success.
Whilst a proper alpine face it lends itself to 'single push' tactics and there are few good bivouac sites.
Descent: From the summit head obliquely down the face towards the gully falling from the Breche de Droites. Once here it's equipped for rappel to the glacier. In recent seasons this has been very dry and should be avoided if there are any other parties above you (rockfall). Once on the glacier head over one or two crevassed areas (may need to abseil) then take a long, contouring line in to the Couvercle Refuge.
The Colton-Brooks has interestingly been claimed twice (as a first ascent) in the Damilano guide. Having been climbed in 1977 it was later climbed in 1980 by the strong team of Jean-Marc Boivin, Philippe Martinez, Christophe Profit and Dominique Radigue who are credited with the 'second first ascent'!