Climbs 300 – Rocktype Conglomerate – Altitude 650m – Faces all
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Related UKC Forum discussions
The conglomerate rock offers up holds unlike anywhere else in the world, pebbles, rocks and blocks varying from the size of a tennis ball to that of a microwave (a bolted microwave naturally, not just one bolt either). Anywhere else, pulling on these holds would feel like pure madness yet they're surprisingly well attached (for the most part).
Given the nature of the rock it'd be quite easy to believe that each route would essentially climb the same (one potato, two potatoes etc.), yet each tower has a distinctly different characteristic, from 45m stamina pump fest pitches to bouldery roofs and of course, the ferocious steepness of the Visera.
It's not just about steepness though, Normal route on El Puro offers a grand day out for anyone wishing to perch on the top of the huge spike splitting from El Pison. Moskitos follows a grand structure of corners and cracks to find a devious route to the top of the steepest tower (at an amenable grade).
So, next time it rains in Rodellar, why not consider something a little different?
• Currucuclillo, Frechin, 230m (6a+. V+/A0, 14 QDs) – An excellent introduction to conglomerate climbing. The bolting is about as friendly as it gets and the descent simple.
• Normal, El Puro, 180m (6b, 5c/A0, 12 QDs) – A grand day out. Whilst on the top of the tower consider that someone has been here before, balanced on a unicycle!
• Moskitos, La Visera, 250m (6b/+, 6a/A0, 12 QDs) – Following the obvious structure of corners and cracks to the "winged" Moskito ledge and then onwards.
• Chooper, El Pison, 150m (6b, 8 QDs) – Sadly this only goes to half height but in so doing offers a good introduction to climbing and abseiling in Riglos.
• Alberto Rabada o Murciana, El Pison, 300m (6c+, 6a/A0, 15 QDs + Mini Rack) – A worthy partner to Fiesta de Los Biceps. Forgive it the first pitch and the next four will reward you greatly. Once the cracks disappear follow the potatoes!
• La Fiesta de los Biceps, La Visera, 270m (6c+, 6b/A0, 15 QDs) – Surprisingly the crux is low down and technical (a groove), above this things get steep, pumpy and outrageously fun!
• Escoria Oriental, El Pison, 300m (7a+, 6b/A0, 18 QDs) – Yet more potato pulling.
• Carnavalada, El Pison, 300m (7a+, 6b/A0, 15 QDs) – All for L4, a 45m pitch. Another swage of chalk clearly visible from a mile away starting from the large flake feature.
• El Zulu Demente, La Visera, 270m (7b, 6b/A0, 16 QDs) – Direct to the mid-ledge on Moskitos and then onwards and upwards through the steepest part of La Visera. The crux consists of one or two bolts of climbing and doesn't detract from the consistent fun beneath.
Looking for a topo? Follow these links:
Los Mallos De Riglos, Sector Names
UKC Articles, Apr 2012
© Paul Bennett
El Pison – Follow tracks in the direction of the Visera until a fixed cable can be reached. From the base of this, two abseils (with 50m ropes) leads to another cable (using 60m ropes this can be done on one with stretch!). From here follow a series of cables leading to abseil rings etc. until the Church can be seen clearly. At this point two more abseils (with 50m ropes, separated at the obvious shelf) has you at the base of the crag. This can be done as a single abseil using 60m ropes (on stretch!). ~1 hour.
Take care when descending and pulling ropes as it is incredibly easy to dislodge loose rock down the gully towards yourself or other teams below.
La Visera – Follow cairns away from the summit and over an obvious shoulder. The path (following cairns) then descends a rocky gully through trees, returning to the bottom of La Visera (or alternatively the town). 30-40 mins depending on footwear (possible but not overly comfortable in rock shoes).
Frechin – Walk off the rear of the tower and follow cairns which lead you to the top of the Visera (+5 mins), from here follow the descent as described for La Visera.
The best multi-pitch sport route in the world? 'Fiesta de los biceps' (F7a), Riglos
© ali k, Oct 2010
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