Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDIff to E2by Alan James and Jack Geldard Aug/2012
This article has been read 16,107 times
So for those climbers for whom a rest involves a sandwich and cup of tea, not just a slightly bigger hold, we have put together a selection of high quality trad routes, spanning the grades VDiff to E2, and all within a stone's throw of a cake shop.
Are you more in to breadsticks than clipsticks? Us too! Have you ticked all these routes? No? Us neither! But you can log your progress at getting these routes done using this UKC Logbook Ticklist: Classic Peak Limestone Trad.
1: Trident Arete, VDiff, Harborough Rocks
A fine little route with a couple of easy variations to the side of it.
2: Lynx, HS, Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)
A great rising diagonal line across a steep buttress - a great way to get to territory normally reserved for harder routes.
3: Golden Yardstick, VS 5a, Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat)
The left-hand side of High Crag at Wildcat gives slightly harder climbing than Lynx, with a superb stance at half-height.
4: Medusa, VS 4b
A little polished these days but the central line of the buttress is still a popular tick with fine climbing and one slippery crack.
5: Conclusor, HVS, 5a
Steady climbing up clean rock between the ivy. Possibly the best route at the crag!
This magnificent corner bounds the left-hand side of the main face at High Tor. It offers brilliant sustained climbing (with a fair amount of polish).
7: Highlight, HVS 5a, High Tor
The companion corner left of Skylight gives a great route which is similar to its neighbour but a touch harder.
8: Original Route, HVS 5a, High Tor
The third classic route below E1 at High Tor is the fine corner on the Main Face. One of the best routes of its kind in the country.
The following two routes are well known to many.
Worth seeking out. A fine line up this impressive face with a commiting and exposed moves on the second pitch providing the (photogenic) crux.
One of the steepest and most exposed routes of its grade in the Peak District. Breath-taking positions and fine climbing leading outwards above the void on huge holds for the most part. In combination with Aplomb it gives an E1 day out that will leave you dizzy from the exposure.
Not so much fun climbing as a must-do experience. The slippery start repels most attempts, get past this and you will probably make the top.
The finest route at Stoney Middleton tackling the central feature of its best buttress. Lots of fixed gear on this one, but take your wires to back it up and fill the gaps.
Delicatessen, Darius, Debauchery
Was there ever a better trio than this? Three fine routes crossing the best face of limestone in England.
Most Popular Climbs:
Flying Buttress HVD, Christmas Crack HS 4a, Hargreaves' Original Route VS 4c, Heather Wall HVD 3a, Hollybush Crack VD, Tody's Wall HVS 5a, Sunset Crack HS 4c, Manchester Buttress HS 4b
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Limestone North (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak Limestone (2012), Scrambles in the Dark Peak (2012), Over the Moors (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Northern England (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Stanage - the Definitive Guide (2007), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Peak Lime Extra MiniGuide (2004), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), High Over Buxton (2003), On Peak Rock (2003), Gritstone Route Database (2001), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987), Derwent Gritstone (1985),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Northern Limestone (2004), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Stanage - the Definitive Guidebook (2002), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Stanage Topo (1993), Leicestershire Climbs (1993), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Supplement (1991), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989), Rock Climbing in thge Peak District (1987), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)
Find Classifieds in this area (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Campsites, etc)
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