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So for those climbers for whom a rest involves a sandwich and cup of tea, not just a slightly bigger hold, we have put together a selection of high quality trad routes, spanning the grades VDiff to E2, and all within a stone's throw of a cake shop. Are you more in to breadsticks than clipsticks? Us too! Have you ticked all these routes? No? Us neither! But you can log your progress at getting these routes done using this UKC Logbook Ticklist: Classic Peak Limestone Trad. Low Grade Gems1: Trident Arete, VDiff, Harborough Rocks A fine little route with a couple of easy variations to the side of it.
  Dave Gregory on Trident Arete at Harborough. UKC Articles, Jun 2012 © Chris Craggs 2: Lynx, HS, Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat) A great rising diagonal line across a steep buttress - a great way to get to territory normally reserved for harder routes.  High Crag at Wildcat showing the lines of Lynx and Golden Yardstick UKC Articles, Jun 2012 © Rockfax 3: Golden Yardstick, VS 5a, Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat) The left-hand side of High Crag at Wildcat gives slightly harder climbing than Lynx, with a superb stance at half-height.  Luke Holmes climbing The Golden Yardstick at Wildcat UKC Articles, Jun 2012 © Dan Lane Multi-pitch Delights
4: Medusa, VS 4b A little polished these days but the central line of the buttress is still a popular tick with fine climbing and one slippery crack. 5: Conclusor, HVS, 5a Steady climbing up clean rock between the ivy. Possibly the best route at the crag! ADVERTISEMENT: Scarpa Vapour XSGHigh Tor below E1 John Cooper climbing Skylight at High Tor UKC Articles, Jun 2012 © Christian Fox This magnificent corner bounds the left-hand side of the main face at High Tor. It offers brilliant sustained climbing (with a fair amount of polish). 7: Highlight, HVS 5a, High Tor The companion corner left of Skylight gives a great route which is similar to its neighbour but a touch harder. 8: Original Route, HVS 5a, High Tor The third classic route below E1 at High Tor is the fine corner on the Main Face. One of the best routes of its kind in the country.  Steve Ramsden on Original Route at High Tor © Adrian Berry Timeless ClassicsThe following two routes are well known to many.  The classic shot of The Thorn (HVS), Beeston Tor © TonyM, Sep 2005 Worth seeking out. A fine line up this impressive face with a commiting and exposed moves on the second pitch providing the (photogenic) crux.  Rick Graham on the spectacular finish of Sirplum, gained via the Super Indirect © Neil Foster, Apr 2011 One of the steepest and most exposed routes of its grade in the Peak District. Breath-taking positions and fine climbing leading outwards above the void on huge holds for the most part. In combination with Aplomb it gives an E1 day out that will leave you dizzy from the exposure.
Stoney Selection Stephen Horne on Dead Banana Crack at Stoney Middleton UKC Articles, Jun 2012 © Stephen Horne Collection Not so much fun climbing as a must-do experience. The slippery start repels most attempts, get past this and you will probably make the top.  Luke Holmes climbing Scoop Wall at Stoney Middleton UKC Articles, Jun 2012 © Dan Lane The finest route at Stoney Middleton tackling the central feature of its best buttress. Lots of fixed gear on this one, but take your wires to back it up and fill the gaps. 13/14/15: The High Tor D RoutesDelicatessen, Darius, Debauchery Was there ever a better trio than this? Three fine routes crossing the best face of limestone in England.  The Main Face of High Tor with the 'D' routes UKC Articles, Jun 2012 © Rockfax  Darius © Dave Foster, Jul 2011
UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Alan James and Jack Geldard:
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