Climbs 58 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 830m – Faces NW
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Italy... known for great food and great climbing in places like Finale, Sardinia, Arco, and Sicily - but who would have guessed that there is a little gem hidden in the tiny village of Cadarese?
In Northern Italy, just over the border from Switzerland, lies the tranquil village of Cadarese nestled in a valley of steep granite and gneiss walls.
At first glance the crag Cadarese area does not make it into any books for a premier climbing area, looking broken and tree-covered, but as one approaches the crag, things change quickly.
The rock hides in a beautiful open beach tree forest, making the contrast between fallen leaves and laser-cut cracks, big layback flakes and solid granite slabs appear stark and magical.
The rock is very compact unpolished granite and offers perfect friction and wonderful cracks.
The path leading to different sectors is steep and in some places not very well established so it is advisable to wear something different than sandals on the approach. Once you are set up under the routes you will find yourself on wide and comfortable ledge systems.
If this area was situated in Britain, there wouldn't be a single bolt to be found – but since this is central Europe, the trad climber's eye might water at the sight of beautiful cracks and corner systems peppered with lines of shiny bolts.
In recent years some of the best lines at Cadarese like The Doors (8b) have had their bolts chopped by a vendetta of crack lovers – and the sector Trad/Crack Party, a sector in which some great bolt-free lines can be found, has been completely spared by the vigorous bolting.
Cadarese was first developed by Italians Maurizio Pellizzon, Fabrizio Fratagnoli, Fausto Radesco, Peter Garanzini, and Marco Pelfini. The crag has seen a makeover in the last couple of years and a pure trad sector has been established by a crew of North Italian climbers adding huge value to the overall climbing in Cadarese.
The crag is separated into different tiers – the lower sector, the central sector, the upper sector, and the sector trad. A climbers' path threads up through the woods between several large ledge systems, and sometimes one needs to climb up a ledge or two to get to one of the more hidden lines. In some places, red spray-painted dots will give you an idea of the general direction. The topo is a little complex and it takes a bit of time getting used to the layout of the area. Once familiar with it all it takes about 15 minutes from the parking area to arrive at the central sector which is a good place to warm up for the day.
All together the Cadarese Crag offers about 50 cracks with difficulties ranging from 4a to 8b, most of the lines being in the 6b – 8a range. Cracks come in all different sizes and forms; some of the climbing is quite technical, whereas some of it is purely physical. Overall the area offers a great intro to crack climbing on granite and some harder lines if you are looking for a project out there.
Facing N/NE and being in the trees, the crag is barely in the sun but temperatures and humidity can become quite high in the summer months. The lower sector and some parts of sector trad are in the sun from around 1pm.
Also of note is that large parts of the area stay dry after rain as the ledge systems act like giant umbrellas.
Every line we got on in Cadarese was appealing with beautiful climbing and it is definitely worth a trip!
Some favorite routes:
The best topo to the area to date is by Silvan Schüpbach, you can download it at : slack-line.ch
More information on Cadarese and climbing in the Ossola region (in Italian) is here: ossolaclimbing
Check out this video of Italian climber Matteo Della Bordella climbing The Doors after taking all the bolts out: