Avoiding Erosion on the Southern Sandstone

by emmaharrington Apr/2013
This article has been read 14,056 times
If you're thinking of heading out on the popular area of the Southern Sandstone in South England this year, then it's worth taking a few minutes to read how to set up your toprope.

The damage ropes can do to the sandstone rock., 206 kbThe damage ropes can do to the sandstone rock.
The sandstone rock is very delicate, having a thin surface patina protecting the softer underlying rock. As soon as this thin crust is worn away you are left with soft sand which wears easily and is sandy and almost un-climbable.

So how do I set up for Sandstone?

The aim is to minimise damage to the rock. As the rock is so soft leading and placing gear is not allowed, which leaves toproping or soloing..

The main points to remember when setting up your top rope:

  1. You must avoid the moving rope coming into contact with the rock, to avoid the rope cutting in to the rock. Rig with a long sling or static rope extended over the cliff edge to ensure the carabiner and moving toprope are hanging away from the rock.
  2. Rigging with a low-stretch rope (static or abseil rope) or sling also minimises risk of erosion.
  3. Using a piece of carpet at the top of the rock under the sling also minimises the risk of cutting into the rock.
  4. Never use wire or hard brushes to clean the rock. This will also wear away the fragile rock surface. Use something like a soft towel to flick the rock only if necessary.
  5. Never abseil down the rock as this will also damage the rock. When finished climbing just walk off, do not lower back down.
An example of a good set up. The karabiner and rope hang over the edge of the rock. , 188 kbAn example of a good set up. The karabiner and rope hang over the edge of the rock.
© Emma Harrington
An example of a bad set up. The ropes are cutting into the rock., 200 kbAn example of a bad set up. The ropes are cutting into the rock.

Visitors please remember to never take it personally if you are challenged by another climber about your set up. They are only trying to protect the rock for future climbers to enjoy. Please respect the code.

Locals - if challenging someone about an incorrect set up then please remember to make sure you do so in a diplomatic way. If you speak to them in an effective calm and friendly way, then you are more likely to receive an effective outcome in return.

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