UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (60) - VS? Easy

© Simon Wadsworth
photo
My first lead #1
© Simon Wadsworth

VS? Easy... I've been climbing for about a year now, yeah I've never lead anything but who cares? I've climbed indoors quite a bit and can get up 6a's and b's without much difficulty. Yeah, this'll be easy. A cruise.

Harness on, gear hanging off me all over the place, feet suitably squeezed into my shoes and the knot is tied. The tall 'V' cut into the cold, dark, Peak gritstone forming the corner I'm about to climb looms menacingly over head; striking a stark contrast against the clear blue sky above.

Composure. Calm. Stay focused. Don't let it get to you. Breathe.

Don't let what get to me? It's nothing, it's a VS, it's in the bag.

My stomach turns over as I fight back the inevitability of the situation. I can't back out now after all my banter. So here I am: stood at the bottom of a rock face; miles from medical care with no bolts, mats or top ropes. The only way is up and the only thing that might save me is a mobile phone.

“Go on then.”

Never has that familiar, sardonic, voice with its thick Yorkshire accent had such a chilling effect on me. Pushing as many bad thoughts out of my mind as possible I take a step towards the rock and reach out with my right hand to feel for a good hold... I can't find one. Not wanting to show my desperation, and cursing the BMC for not painting all holds bright pink for people who've spent too long indoors, I plump for an alright hold, get my foot on and pull.

I'm up! Not only am I up, but I feel quite sturdy: things are looking good. I decide that it's probably best to place too much gear than not enough so I look at the crack in front of me and start fishing around for a suitable nut. After much deliberation one goes in well, very well actually. Secretly quite pleased with myself it's time to move on.

As I pull up I discover that I've wasted a lot of energy hanging around trying to get protection in and decide it's time to make some swift progress. Two placements later and I'm approaching the top, I feel too high above my last bit of gear and the wind is whirling round my head. I lose concentration for a split second as I look down at my harness for another bit of gear and catch sight of the floor, what seems like miles below. One hand fumbles around at my harness as the other slides from the rock, my breathing quickens and I screw my face up in desperation. I can hear muffled voices trying to reassure me but all I can think about is the fall. My impending demise.

I manage to get the nut set off my harness and stick in the first thing that comes to hand, it doesn't feel very good but it'll do, just two more moves and I'm out of here.

Relief! Sitting at the top looking down contentment floods my veins and paints a crazy man's grin across my face. Am I a crazy man? Possibly. Either way, roll on the next route.

VS? Easy? Maybe, but I was still cacking myself.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE


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