UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (67) - The Howl Of The Wind

© W.Taylor
photo
The Howl Of The Wind

On that damp morning after a night up listening to the pitter patter of rain, we set off, looking forward to my first time leading on Welsh rock well away from many a time seconding on the polished limestone of the north. Deciding to jump in at the deep end we decided I'd lead a few pitches of a route called Christmas Curry. After racking up from the pickup truck with all my friends gear, we set off from the road to the base of the route. Along the road was the café, which was tempting us with the smell of bacon butties. We walked through the tranquil and empty silence of the trees and onto the climb. The ease of access and achievable routes meant it would soon get busy even if it wasn't the beautiful day that we hoped for, but it was nice compared to the cloud covered peaks which had welcomed me for many a year in Wales.

After accidentally scrambling half way up first pitch we decided to get the rope out; for my first lead we weren't off to the best start.

I then started to lead what should have been the second pitch and set up my belay beside a nice looking tree. After seconding the third pitch where I got stuck for ten minutes trying to remove a hex, which was well and truly wedged it was now time for the final pitch. Reaching up to acquire the first hold, I had to traverse about seven metres across to the left, knowing that if I fell I would swing quite a way. I glanced down, pulling an anxious face at my partner Dave. I started to climb across and then around a blocky corner and a nice big flake, which I got a well placed sling on. I felt a bit better. Fnally seeing a nice ledge I went even further across and I enjoyed the ledge for a minute or two. Unbeknown to me I was now off route.

I tried to climb up a splayed chimney but it was too smooth for me. Holding myself in position I hurriedly tried to place some gear but to no avail. Then, oops, I spotted where I was meant to go up, back across to the right. Feeling scared out of my wits I down climbed a few metres almost falling. Then splat, a drop of rain hit me in the face. Oh, dear. I transferred my weight onto my right foot and pulled in to a nice crack. After a few more metres I was finally at the top.

After placing an obscene amount of gear on the last part of the climb, I had to struggle to find somewhere to set up a belay. My rack was now down to a couple of slings, a nut and a hex. Fitting the hex deep in between two rocks and the sling on a flake I realised I only had one krab, luckily a screw gate. I clipped into them and equalised them whilst still getting soaked from the rain. "Safe" I shouted to Dave and above the howl of the wind I heard him shout ''Off belay." A few minutes later he was climbing and I was praying he wouldn't fall because I wasn't sure about how safe the belay was. He soon made it and we enjoyed a few minutes in the rain then made it down to the café for a brew.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE


Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email