UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (71) - More Fun Than Indoor Climbing

© Nicola Schumacher
photo
Nic on Hercules Crack, Stanage
© Nicola Schumacher

Recently, after a few sessions of seconding outdoors and a bit of encouragement, I nervously decided to try my first lead. It wasn't planned before I arrived at the crag but when my friend suggested it, I felt ready to have a go. I was at Wharncliffe and my climb was to be Alpha, graded moderate.

I began by seconding the climb then seconded a couple of severes to give me some more confidence. I looked up at the climb and felt apprehensive. Although I was perfectly capable of climbing it and had found it an easy second, the lack of a top rope was starting to make me feel very nervous. I worried that I wouldn't be able to place my gear properly and that it wouldn't hold me if I fell. I thought that I might get half way up and not feel confident enough to climb up further or trust my last piece of gear enough to abseil down. What would I do then?

I put these fears to the back of my mind and started to climb. It felt strange not having a top rope. The holds that I chose for my hands and feet seemed to matter more. After a few feet I reached a horizontal crack which looked ideal for placing my first piece of gear. I chose a hex and, after moving it back and forth along the crack, found a position for it that I felt happy with. Once I'd clipped in to it I carried on upwards. A vertical crack further up looked good for my second gear placement. I selected a Friend and once I'd clipped in I felt more secure. I felt more confident in my gear placing than I had expected. I reached a ledge and looked at the next part of the ascent. My nervous feeling was leaving me and I was really starting to enjoy the climb. This was much more fun than indoor climbing at the wall! I could see the top of the crag and anticipate the sense of achievement that would go with reaching it, which spurred me on. After deciding that one more piece of gear would give me adequate protection, I started to climb the next section. I picked a Friend that was the right size for a vertical crack higher up although, on reflection, a hex may have been more suitable. Feeling far more secure than I had anticipated, I went for the top.

Conquering the climb was a great feeling and, after being told I was off belay, it was time for my next challenge - setting up a belay point on my own for the first time! The large rock at the top did make it easier and before long I was ready to belay for my friend to second the route. After my initial fears, I was pleased that all my gear had stayed where I had placed it. Although that was my only lead of the day, I left Wharncliffe feeling very keen to plan another outdoor session for my next lead.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE


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