I'm surprised that I ever touched stone again.

I'd been climbing for about a season and a half on sunny south coast bolts, cruising up what the original photocopied Portland sports guide then called HVS. So when my work moved me up to Norfolk in 2000 I was dumbstruck – what was I going to do about my new found passion for rock? A quick visit up to Matlock (quick involving seven hours of driving) confirmed my worst fears. The North / South divide was going to leave me with two choices; either I learn to climb trad, or I rot away on the indoor walls of the flatlands of Norfolk?

So, after an hour or two sending emails asking about what sort of gear to get, another hour or two buying one set of nuts on wires and a sling, and equipped with my “On Peak Rock” I headed up to Derbyshire for the first time. I should state at this point that my wife and belayer hated rock and that I had taught her to belay on our terraced house's stairwell two or three days before. Oh, and did I mention that I'd never even seen anyone lead a trad climb before?

Where to go then? Stanage, equipped with uncountable, glorious easy first leads? Harborough Rocks, familiar limestone, not too high with some wonderful pockets and jugs? or; Black Rocks: menacing, rounded, and maybe ten minutes closer to Norfolk? The choice was obvious.

So it was that on a damp February morning I found myself gearing up at the bottom of “Lone Tree Groove” (only a VS after all, and I'd led many an “HVS" on sport). My first thought as I got into the niche was; Why are there no holds anywhere? My second was; How on earth can I be sure that these metal things will stick in? But I wasn't too high up yet. Getting round the bulge felt a little bit scary, but was a good VS move I thought. Then the only bit of gear between me and the deck pinged just as all the previously non-existent holds disappeared altogether. The lovely slanting crack seemed a tad high and intimidating now. I'd read a bit about jamming, but it had all seemed a bit improbable. However undeterred I slung in another nut (never thinking to back it up as it was now my only piece of protection) jammed my foot in the crack, and pulled up a bit. It worked. Another bit of gear, another foot jam, a hand-hold (hallelujah) and another pull and it worked again! This wasn't so bad. I cruised on, placing gear till the top, and screamed with the joy of it all!

Now how do I get my gear back? Answers on a postcard please ...

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE