UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (84) - On The West Coast

© Jamie Murray

My first memorable climb was at 8 years old, jumping out of a tree because the big boys did it first – I broke my arm but it didn't stop me. The climbing was fine, it was the falling that I had got wrong.

My first lead climb was just as ill advised. A mate and I had been climbing at an inside wall for a month or so when we decided we needed fresh air and headed off to Jetty Crag at Gruinard Bay on the west coast of Scotland. We considered ourselves well prepared thanks to the bold purchase of one set of nuts and a few quick draws. Oh, and two slings, a blue one and a red one although I had no idea what I was going to do with them. But I was happy, it seemed exciting and a million miles away from work.

photo
Moments after my first ever lead
© Jamie Murray

Having never climbed outside before, I decided I should lead Buttress Crack, a VS 5a 25m, which to my inexperienced ear sounded easy compared to the 6b+ I had been climbing indoors, so off I went. No fear, a recurring problem.

Up and away on a slab, I only remember getting further and further away from the one piece of gear I had so far placed. Looking back, it was rubbish, miles away from me and good for nothing. I placed it, shouted bomber, knew it was pitiful and carried on climbing, a blob of Blu tack would have been more effective. As I carried on, Alex was like a stuck record 'I think you should put some gear in'...'I think you should put some gear in'...

I was 3 or 4 metres from the top when I finally paid attention, over compensated by filling the remaining crack with about four bits and went over the top. Then I set about making a belay to bring up my mate. That was truly bomber as I remember wrestling with two of the nuts afterwards as I tried to free them.

I could say how amazing the sunlight and light breeze were but I didn't notice anything but the buzz in my head. It had been so amazing that all I wanted to do was get down and do another route. It had to be bigger and harder and, by the way, why hadn't we gone somewhere where we could do massive routes?

As an experienced climber, I now know how to place gear, I just choose not to (often). I still get the same buzz and the unbeatable feeling of being completely on the edge that I did on that first lead climb, concentrating utterly and completely, lost in the moment and the next sequence whether it be on a V.diff or E3.

Everyone has their own style of climbing and reason for being there – but what we all share is that sheer enjoyment and exhilaration of being wrapped up in our own adventure, even if it only lasts for 20 metres.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE


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