When I moved to Cornwall in 1991 I was introduced to Bosigran, a 190 feet granite face between St Ives and Lands End. This wonderful rock mass has been frequented by climbers of great eminence such as Irvine and Mallory. I was a 30-something climber who thought up until that day that a long climb involved three pieces of pro and no more than one pitch. Suddenly (egged on by climbers half my age) I was being taken up Doorway (4a). The exposure was unreal to a lad brought up on Lancashire rock.

“But I'm sure this was easy 15 years ago” I said to myself. Then my mind wandered back to a climb in a small quarry near Parbold, Lancashire in 1977 when I remembered saying something equally as misguided.

The climb my mind was referring to was Wiggin a 45 ft mossy layback of VS standard and for some reason, beyond me, I thought it would be a good first lead.

20 feet up and with my first hexcentric being placed I felt great until I realised that that was the biggest bit of pro that I had and the layback crack was getting bigger. Now at 40 feet up the climb and in reach of the top, I was in the unenviable situation of realising that I could not top out due to the top of the quarry face being crowned with a 6 foot grassy bank at approximately 45° and very slippery.

After what felt like hours stuck in this position I had to make a quick decision as the disco fever in my left leg was becoming uncontrollable. I couldn't down climb so “Off belay” I shouted “and run like the wind”. No doubt there were a few expletives in there for good measure! My chummy had to take me off belay and then run out and around the quarry to attach a long sling so I could top out. He then had to run back and put me on belay again.

Have you ever been in a situation that you feel helpless?? I have!!

Fortunately the experience didn't put me off climbing and I spent 4 happy years as a regular at Bosigran. This time I started leading on Diff's and climbed them all, followed by the V.Diff's and so on. By time I got to HVS+ I was more comfortable leading than seconding.

The moral of the story is; start easy and get your pro placement technique right before leading harder stuff.

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Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE