UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (89) - Wreckers Slab

© Crimpchimp
photo
wreckers slab first lead. #1

Back when I was 17 I met a guy who later became an good friend. He was an established climber who introduced me to the sport. We were poor students who had no transport and no money so the most accessable median was bouldering. He showed me the basics and when I started I was real bad, but I eventually got my head sorted and settled into it. I got slightly obsessed and started training and bouldering on my own, and actually walking and longboard skateboarding about five miles each way to get to Bodmin Moor, where I'd spend several hours sending routes with no grades and names. I'd even climbed in the snow a couple of times, it was a real escape.

I remember managing to get out with my mate where we would just top rope semi-hard micro routes and have a good laugh. I got a chance to top rope an E2 at the Cheeswring Quarry which was higher than anything I had even touched before, I got scared because of exposure and backed off. It knocked me back a notch because I knew I had a long journey ahead of me to become a climber.

The months started to pass and as they did I started to meet different guys around the area and I began to be known as a dedicated climber. Regular trips were made to the barn in Bude (which has now moved). I was getting strong but still I was not climbing high. All I could do was practice placing the few tatty bits of gear I could get my hands on, just to prepare and know what people were talking about.

One day I was approached by a guy who is a well established North Devon and Cornwall surfer and climber, he offered to show me a few classics on the north Devon coast. There was no way I could decline. On one weekend within the next month I was sitting drinkin low alcohol beer and eating spaghetti, full of anticipation for the day to follow. We awoke and packed the gear. To my surprise we packed two ice axes which when questioned he explained that they were mainly for the hammers but we may need the picks for the loose top outs. I laughed as I nodded.

After a long drive we arrived at some slabs on Screda point and we abseiled down and then climbed a HVS slab called Chien Lunatique which I seconded. That went well and we finished pretty quickly. We abseiled back down and climbed a harder route and everything was good. We walked back to the car and made our way to another destination. I had no idea what was to come.

The walk in was longer but we encountered some cows which chased us and we had to jump a fence to safety. We started to descend down a small overgrown valley and arrived at a shingle beach. We turned east and trecked a few hundred yards to the bottom of a huge wall. Things hadn't registered until my buddy looked up and said "There it is".

I looked up and in a slightly nieve way said "Nice man lets do it". We geared up and he passed me the bag with the excess stuff, shoes and whatnot, with the axes strapped to the front. He climbed on to the first of four (the registered climb is actually three, but they are long and we spit it up slightly) belay points and I followed. This went on without problems for the first two pitches, pegs were being placed and removed in moderation with use of the hammers. I got to the third belay and looked down and I was amazed, there was a tyre on the beach and it really did look small. Although the grade was relativeley low and the climbing was no worrys I had never been exposed to such a situation, the sea was calm and the sun was bright and this situation was not far off perfect. We were on the last pitch and we were making good time. Standing on the belay ledge my mate go's, "This is your pitch". I said "What the top pitch? I dont know about that" followed by him "Dont worry I've soloed this last pitch, youll be fine". Of course I agreed and I led off, havin a blast placing gear and climbing free, I got In sight of the top and there were two Falcons perched on the apex. I climbed a little further and they looked down at me before flying over head.

When both at the top after building my first belay in action, we sat down where I removed my painful shoes which at this point were unbearable, seeming I was a boulderer and of course back then the tighter the shoes the better. We sat there for a few minutes before walking back to the car. I'll never forget that lead and the perfect conditions which allowed me to be there. I am now 21 and have returned to climbing after a two year travel period, I am leading harder and climbing better than ever before and having as much fun than I ever did. I have been back to Cheesewring and climbed a couple of E2s, I gotta admit though I am still a boulderer.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE



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