UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (94) - Journey to the Edge

© Nicola Sommers
photo
Half way up Grotto's Slab, Stanage
© Nicola Sommers

This journey to the edge started a month previously when I joined the university mountaineering club as a complete beginner.

After my first trip down to the local wall I knew I was hooked. A mere four weeks later I found myself on a club trip to the Peak District. Quickly adapting to club life I found myself an experienced partner (not just for climbing!).

Saturday morning started with low damp cloud. Our spirits were boosted with a quick trip into the local climbing shop before we headed up into the mist; I was assured Stanage lay ahead. I really did not know what to expect from my first ever day of outdoor climbing.

The mini-bus parked at the bottom of Stanage and I leapt out enthusiastically from the warmth of my seat. We quickly unloaded the vans and started the walk up towards the crag. In no time at all we were there. I was quickly partnered off for the morning's climbing; my first ever outdoor climbing!

After a quick lunch I found myself at the bottom of Grotto's Slab, having spent all morning itching to do my first lead. I was guided in my choice of gear for the daunting task that lay ahead. I tied into the rope and another club member agreed to belay and second me.

Before I knew it, there I was, halfway up my first lead climb. After only two seconds and a quick run-through of placing gear there I was, midway through my first lead! Balanced precariously on the slab, as steady as it might be, it felt a million miles from the indoor top-roping I had done.

As I placed and clipped my second piece of gear I looked down nervously at the rope. A quick extra tug on my gear reassured me before I continued up the slab. I reached a ledge near to the top, just before the crux move, and began to panic, unable to find a good placement. After some calm coaching words I placed some gear and was able to move up the vertical wall in front of me.

As I pulled over the top to safety I felt exhilarated and on top of the world - ok, maybe just on top on Stanage. With the help from my climbing partner I set a belay. I sat buzzing on top as I brought up my second. What a way to end my first day on rock. The next morning I jumped out of bed at half past seven and went on to lead another three routes.

I'm writing this four weeks later, on the way home from another good weekend climbing in the Peak District. I am tired, no, exhausted, but incredibly happy; I am completely addicted!!

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE



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