Cave Gully. My first lead. Actually it was my first winter lead. Purists may say that's not what the essay rules say but I WANT that gear. Anyway, rules are for summer climbing. The only real rule of climbing is you get off in one piece. And that was the problem.

Many years ago, prior to global warming there were lots of winter mountaineering routes in North Wales. These days you will find more ice in the freezer in the Spar in Llanberis but wandering up the Pyg ten years ago we thought Cave Gully would be fine. Being the naturally brave sort, I worked out how I could get my partner to do the crux, leaving me to finish the final pitch and then I could look cool on the ridge as the walkers made their way to the top alongside the railway line.

So we wander up to the start, gear up and he climbs to the aforementioned cave, sorts himself a bomber belay and calls me up. Now it's my turn to lead. I step out over the drop, whack in my crampon points, trust my life to my DMM axes and apologise for the product placement. I placed my products into the ice and headed on up. "This winter climbing lark is not as bad as they make out, it's pretty straightforward really ", I thought as I headed up. There was only one problem. No gear. Not a bloody thing. Or at least nothing I could find. As I got higher and higher I could feel a wave of fear rising from my boots that threatening to engulf me. I just about got a grip until the cornice arrived. It was vertical unprotectable candy floss, a complete nightmare and still I had not a scrap of gear for nearly a full rope length beneath me. The thought of a 90 metre fall with an axe in each hand was swiftly dismissed as I swam though the cornice. I emerged onto the easy summit ridge at the feet of a group of walkers enjoying the Spring sunshine. "Enjoy that?" one of them said. I was so gripped I couldn't talk. After five minutes I pulled myself sufficiently together to croak "Climb when ready" down the gully. Five minutes later he emerged though the cornice. "No gear eh," he said "Let's fuck off to Pete's before we have the accident".

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE