PREVIEW: The New Yorkshire Grit Bouldering Guidebookby Kevin Avery Jan/2008
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It has been almost eight years since Rockfax published their guide to the bouldering on Yorkshire gritstone. Much has happened since then and the book is now well out of date. New lines have been sent and repeated, standards have risen and bouldering is now more popular than ever. So, it is without surprise that a new guidebook should emerge, but this time it is not from Rockfax but a group of newcomers in the form of Total-climbing.
Due to the vast amount of quality climbing in the area and the wealth of developments that have taken place since the last book, two guides are now going to be released. Volume One will cover the central areas and Volume Two, the Barden Fell and Barden Moor Areas. Both volumes contain hundreds of problems from grade 3 up to 8b. Both are to be printed in an A5 landscape format, in full colour and with hundreds of action shots which will whet your appetite for the awe-inspiring problems that the area has to offer. With contributions from the likes of Alex Messenger and John Coefield, the pictures epitomize what bouldering on grit is all about; crisp winter days, blue skies and having a laugh with your mates!
This book includes over 20 crags as well as a history of the bouldering on Yorkshire gritstone. Some of the crags in this guide such as Almscliff, Caley and Earl Crag are already amongst the most popular in the county if not the country and are home to many a classic challenge. The crags included are as follows:
Almscliff, Brimham (including the outlying areas), Caley Roadside and Crag, Clattering Stones, Chevin East, Chevin West, Dove Stones, Earl Crag, Gorple, Ilkley, Ilkley Rocky Valley, Ilkley Pub Quarry, Swastika Stones, Mytholm Steeps, Scout Crag, Scout Hut, Shipley Glen, Slipstones, Whitehouses, Widdop, and Woodhouse Scar!
© Mick Ryan, UKC News
Most of the crags in this book are on Barden Fell and Barden Moor. These areas are a little more isolated, usually requiring a bit of a walk in but can be a great choice if you seek solitude further away from the more crowded central areas. Peaceful and beautifully situated, they may also be the places to go if you are seeking out first ascents of your own. Unclimbed plums exist at all grades for those with the necessary motivation to seek them out and pick them off. Perhaps Yorkshire's next great challenge is up there just waiting to be discovered? Go and see for yourself and you won't be let down!
The areas in Volume II include:
Brandrith, Brown Beck, Crookrise, Deer Gallows, Eastby, Fairies Chest, Flasby Fell, Great Wolfry, Great Wolf Stones, Goldsbrough, Guisecliff, Hellifield, Lord's Seat, Rylstone, Simon's Seat, Sypeland, Snowden Crags and Thruscross as well as a couple of new venues.
Thanks to Jon Pearson of www.yorkshiregrit.com, the online resource for bouldering in Yorkshire for the action photos in this article.
Where To Buy
Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Volume I is available from 17th January direct from total-climbing.com and at your local climbing shop. Volume II will follow in March.
Samples of the guidebook layout.