The Finest Routes in the Alps
Gran Paradiso (4061m) - North-West Face D, 55º, 500m
All photos, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
in association with
Misha Gopaul on the NW Face. The Gran Paradiso is situated in the Italian alps, near to the French border. It has an elevation of 4061m, making it the highest mountain entirely in Italy.
The Region
Gran Paradiso serves plenty of the ingredients that guarantee a great alpine outing - beautiful landscape, protected as a National Park, good access, comfortable refuges, a beautiful array of glacier, ice and ridge routes all provided with a relatively straightforward descent via the 'normal' route. It is justifiably popular for both summer alpinism and winter ski ascents.
The mountain lends its name to the Gran Paradiso National Park. This was founded in 1922 but was originally set up as the Royal Hunting Reserve by Vittorio Emanuel II in 1856 to protect the dwindling Ibex population from extinction. Indeed there are now more than 4000 in the Park. The protected area has now grown to over 70,000 hectares and is managed by over 50 rangers ensuring the tranquility of the abundant of wild fauna and the delicate ecosystems necessary for their survival. These include ibex, chamois, marmots, ermine, badger, fox, wolf and several species of raptors. The National Park has also managed to protect the landscape from ski installations and mechanical uplift, a rare though welcome feature in the Alps. The Gran Paradiso National Park meets the Vanoise National Park at the French border, and combined these form one of the largest protected areas in Europe.
The two principal refuges giving access to Gran Paradiso summit are the Chabod and Victor Emmanuel II. Both offer hearty food and comfortable accommodation when they are open in spring and summer. Outside these times they both have winter rooms. From the roadside the mountain presents a solid 2000m ascent from any direction that makes the summit well earned, without being unmanageable. Despite many of the highest peaks of Europe running along its borders with France and Switzerland, Gran Paradiso is the only 4000m mountain entirely in Italy.
The Routes
From Valsavarenche hike and skin up to the luxuriously equipped Chabod winter refuge. Pass the evening with a roaring fire - no need to even carry pots and stove as there are four gas hobs and all the utensils provided. The following morning ski into the base of a route, climb carrying skis up the face to the summit. Boot down to below the summit rocks and with skis back on take the moderate angled West Flank route past the Vittorio Emanuele II hut and down to the road head at Pont. If you are lucky the driver can hitch back along the road to pick up the car! Don't forget to pay for your night's fee when back down in the village.
These routes are two excellent introductions to the exhilaration of climbing north facing ice slopes. At 500m high and maximum 55º they require a basic mastery of front pointing and two axe techniques, but are not so long or steep as to weigh heavily on the mind. For most of the year the sun catches the slope in the afternoon and an early start is recommended. Though the glacier and rimaye can sometimes be a little trying there are few other objective dangers to negotiate so long as the serac of the Little North Face is given wide berth. The rounded serac high on the NW face rarely appears to be active, but should nevertheless be inspected as this can change.
The stunning Alpine vista from the Gran Paradiso with Mont Blanc poking through the clouds in the distance on the left.
The lower face serves as a good warm up. Methodical punch, kick, kick, punch as one moves up 'daggering' the axe picks into the snow and feet rest just on the front few points of the crampons. I often set off too quickly
bashing up a ladder of steps for a few minutes only to be overtaken by a rush of lactic acid burning in my calves. With my enthusiasm tempered I tend to kick out a quick step and use it as an excuse to get some photos of my friends. The more methodical climber will beat out a sustainable rhythm for as long as it takes.
Soloing or pitched climbing allows the climber to follow their own pace and rhythm. However leading a second up a steep snow slope in 'tractor' mode with a short rope and no intermediary protection is quite a different matter as ones four points of contact with the snow are potentially protecting two bodies from their slippery demise. It is necessary to keep control with a taut rope but this means one either gently drags the second up or that both climb steadily at the same pace. Either option is fairly trying on the mind and body.
When training for the Alpine guides exam I was given the lead on this route by Paul Farmer, my supervising guide, to take him and his hyper-energetic client, Steve, up in a short rope of three. It was late June and the snow was good. Nevertheless moving steadily and keeping the six metres of rope tight down to the last man required extensive verbal coercion and leg work to feel secure. At 2/3 height the first hint of ice under the snowy facade provided a good excuse for a belay. The day was fine and there wasn't any need to hurry. I lead
out a rope length and with protection between us I had suggested they start moving just before the rope went tight. Stopped just short of the sunshine I tugged impatiently at my harness. Some expletives floated up to me and I soon learned that Paul had dropped one of my new ice screws down the face.
In retrospect I got away lightly, as on the subsequent trip with a client, Masha, in late autumn we were caught in an ugly maelstrom on reaching the ridge. To stash an axe quickly and get to grips with the surprisingly deep snow on the ridge I strapped my second axe onto her pack. I only found out back on the glacier that it had somewhere worked its way loose and tumbled down the face. The greatest hazards on this climb may well be ice or other object knocked down by climbers!
Ally Swinton topping out of the NW Face, 1340m from the Chabod Refuge. This superb snow-ice face features 50-55 degree ice for 500m.
Conditions
The North West Face is ideally climbed with a squeaky layer of neve snow, but it can be found in all kinds of conditions all of which are usually climbable but may be slower and more testing. In the times that I have climbed this face I have rarely found perfect neve from bottom to top. Nevertheless a little challenging ice usually adds a bit of variety to the
outing. If from a distance it looks like there is some grey hard ice one should suspect that there is much more of the same lurking not too far beneath a decorative icing. The lower angle of the bottom and top sections usually hold good snow but this often wears thin in the steeper middle section. More extensive patches of hard glacial ice are common in the
height of summer. Neve, aerated ice and crusty snow are prevalent for much of the rest of the year. Due to its steady 50-55º angle it rarely holds deep fresh snow and can thus be ascended in almost any condition. Under easy conditions, that are most often encountered in autumn, spring and early summer, parties may ascend the face simul climbing placing screws. Guides often lead clients in 'tractor' mode with a short rope whilst others may solo the route once the crevasses and rimaye have been passed. The Chabod hut website has a live webcam that can give a good indication of conditions.
Under easy conditions, that are most often encountered in autumn, spring and early summer, parties may ascend the face simul climbing placing screws. Guides often lead clients in 'tractor' mode with a short rope whilst others may solo the route once the crevasses and rimaye have been passed. The Chabod hut website has a live webcam that can give a good indication of conditions.
Approach
As this will probably be undertaken in the dark it is well worth scoping it out the evening before. From the Chabod Refuge head east up a path for 400m. Follow this S across two streams. Head up a moraine SE for 100m before turning S again. Traverse rising gently to meet another moraine which is followed SE to a point just above the Glacier Laveciau. This is in rapid retreat and the route is changing each year. Follow the left hand fork of glacier (right branch in direction of flow) up into the cirque formed between the Gran and Piccolo Paradiso.
An artist as well as a photographer and Mountain Guide, Ben has done a series of sketches and drawings to accompany his series.
Photo © Ben Tibbetts
North West Face Route
Climb the face directly or slightly to the left hand side. Belays, if necessary, can be made on the rocks to the left, but more commonly good screws can be placed throughout with a little digging below the surface. Exit onto the N ridge of Gran Paradiso and follow this S towards the summit. The highest point is usually a snow bump just after a short steep step is encountered. The statue of the Virgin is situated on a rock buttress two metres lower to the SE. To reach this and the descent route continue E and down climb or rappel a 5m rock step on the N side. Traverse under the Virgin on the SW side to meet the rocky crest which can be followed to the snowy saddle and descent line.
Little North Face variation
This route is of a lower angle (AD, 45º, 500m) and can be climbed if the NW face is found to be icier than expected. It can also be highly recommended as an independent objective. The steep sections are shorter as the face is broken by a wide shelf level with the top of the serac. Unlike the NW Face the route joins the ridge at the Colle del Piccolo Paradiso. To reach the summit ridge an interesting rock buttress must be negotiated.
From the foot of the NW Face traverse left and climb the broad gulley formed between the imposing serac and the toe of rock. If the side of the serac appears active the rocks or slope to the right can be climbed to reach the same point. On reaching the wide glacial shelf (crevassed) either continue straight up just left of the rock spur, or traverse left to a shorter slope leading to the col. At the ridge head right (south) to the toe of a rock buttress. Follow this at first on the crest and then on the right side to reach the snow ridge beyond and meet the end of the NW face route.
Misha Gopaul climbing directly to the Virgin's summit.
Descent
From the snowy saddle SE of the summit towers descend a short steep slope and rimaye onto the glacier. Follow this S for 400m to a steepening then head W to a col/plateau. Follow a blunt ridge running NW between the Gran Paradiso and Laveciau glaciers. To head back to Chabod navigate the crevasses to the E to enter the Laveciau basin and then descend NNE meandering back and forth through heavily crevassed zones to the moraine and starting point. To head to Vittorio Emanuele II drop down the glacial slopes W and follow the drainage round left to find the refuge.