The Finest Routes in the Alps
Mont Blanc via Peuterey Integral - 4500m, TD+, V+
All photos, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
in association with
The rock climbing was excellent from the outset, with sustained interest along the whole ridge, and the few steeper passages were made much more tricky by our reasonably solid backpacks. I carried just a compact camera. I almost always regret taking a small camera, but here it was probably just as well! We carried light crampons, a single axe each, some food, and a jetboil stove. No sleeping bag, no mat and only enough water to get us up and over the first peak and down to hopefully find some ice to melt. We started at about 4.30 am and as darkness gave way to dawn we had already made good progress up the Pointe Gamba and the sun caught us as we were on the Pointe Bifide.
We moved together up almost the whole ridge, placing a couple of pieces of protection between us and taking belays when we ran out of gear or extenders. The idea was not to ‘speed climb’ by any means, but we figured that carrying less gear would make the climbing more enjoyable and if we didn’t want to carry overnight gear then we better just keep moving at a steady pace. We started out climbing in boots, but changed to rock shoes before long as we found we moved quicker like this. Don’t underestimate the complexity of route-finding up the ridge. We certainly lost hours rather than minutes up the ridge taking wrong turnings and reversing before matching the vague topo descriptions to the acres of granite above us. We slowed down and took belays for each of the steeper pitches, especially the delightful corner pitches on Pointe Ottoz where we passed a friendly Italian pair that had already been on the route for a day and a night.
At this point we thought we could still comfortably be up and over Mont Blanc, and down to the Aiguille du Midi to catch the last lift down to the valley. More importantly Ally had got a text message suggesting the weather forecast had deteriorated and so it was imperative we got down before the forecasted storm rolled in. The terrain up the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey didn’t easily match up with the route description but the climbing was mostly moderate angle moving together over snow and rock bands. Nevertheless we were tired and with a lot of fresh snow resting on rock slabs we moved slowly. Between the two summits of the Peuterey Blanche is the beautiful yet exposed ‘half moon’ snow crest. The snow was still cold and firm, so we moved unroped. Towards the far end however the snow ridge gave way to thin ice on rock slabs. We stopped to rope up and I led across.
ALPINE ATTACK 35:35
The Alpine Attack ticks every box for the modern alpinist. It’s light, tough, clean and stacked with useful features that make life easier when climbing in harsh mountain conditions. Whether you're planning on tackling a big route in Patagonia or planning week ice climbing in the Scottish Highlands next winter the Alpine Attack is the right choice for the multi-discipline climber.
ALPINE ATTACK ND 35:45
The Alpine Attack ND has been designed specifically for female alpinists. Definitely not just a different colour, the ND series has a shorter back-length, and a different harness and hipbelt to the standard model. If you are a female alpinist with a big ticklist for the next 12 months choose the Alpine Attack ND as your regular climbing partner.
PEAK ATTACK 32
With a classic single-compartment design, the Peak Attack remains true to the traditional ethos of mountain packs, yet offers a unique and award winning feature set. With new double HeadLocker axe attachments, unique Tip-Grippers for attaching poles, and ski slots designed to carry even the widest power skis, the Peak Attack provides everything need for time spent in the mountains.
Again the next day the lift didn’t run due to the high winds, and many people traversed the Vallée Blanche to take the sheltered Helbronner lift down to Italy instead. Three hours walking was not on our menu so we sat out another day and night before descending. It took a while for the adventure to sink in and the body to recover. In hindsight I began to realise how narrow a line we were treading, aiming to be ‘fast and light’. How easily alpinists can go, in Andy Cave’s words, from ‘Light and lucky, Fast and furious’ to being ‘Lost and lonely, F**ked and freezing’…
Approach
From parking at Peuterey in Val Veni follow the path rightwards and onto scree slopes to a rocky section. This is passed with chains and then leads to easier slopes and the sunny Borelli Refuge on the right, 2-3hrs.
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
This first section, the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, is a 1100m high TD ridge that can be climbed almost entirely moving together. The route finding in the lower section can be complicated if climbed in the dark and is worth a recce the afternoon before. The rock climbing is excellent, with sustained interest along the whole ridge. Water should be picked up wherever found.
From the foot of the Pointe Gamba at pt. 2675 a meandering line of weakness (max 4b) leads up and right to access the couloir separating it from the Pointe Bifide. This is climbed and then a rib for two pitches before traversing again right onto the face of the Pointe Bifide. The ridge is climbed in three pitches to reach terraces below a steep step. Climb a corner, chimney and then a slab (each 4c) to reach the crest. Go up then right then pass an overhanging block (5a) before descending a slab to reach the notch between the twin summits of the Bifide. Traverse R round the second summit and continue to reach a notch. Climb slabs and pinnacles to a steepening that is passed on the right.
Continue to the next notch via a 40m abseil. Traverse left around a pillar and then climb the chimney between this and the Pointe Ottoz. An airy stride gets you onto the steep ridge of Pointe Ottoz which is climbing straight up then left into a corner (5c). Climb this corner to overhangs then follow a slab right to the ridge (5c). Follow the ridge passing possible bivouac sites to the Pointe Ottoz (3586m).
Continue along the ridge to the gap before Pointe Bich and then traverses several small pinnacles (4c) to reach a steeper buttress. Climb this by cracks (5c) to the right of the ridge. Continue diagonally to the right by a system of corners. Follow these for 20m (4c) before a slab leads left back to the ridgeline. Follow the ridge to ledges, possible bivouacs, up a cracked slab and then rightwards past boulders to a loose gully. Climb the gully for 40m and then a chimney on the right leading to the ridge and then Pointe Bich (3753m).
Abseil 30m then descend steeply to the notch. Traverse ledges to the ridge which is followed to the summit of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3772m) 5-8 hours. Possible bivouac sites. We reached the summit in the early afternoon and began the 14 abseils directly below the statue of the Virgin Mary. This is a good point to escape if things aren’t going so well as descent via the East Ridge is long but relatively easy.
To continue with the ‘Integrale’ a series of abseils takes you down a 400m wall with some free-hanging sections and a bit of loose rock. There are abseil stations strewn across the face, usually pegs or cord around spikes, most finished with a maillon link. The best line is hard to follow but trends slightly rightwards in descent. As the abseil stations are not regularly equipped each one needs to be thoroughly tested before use. 60m ropes are very useful to link the best line of anchors. The face also has abundant cracks so be careful to avoid rope jams. We found welcome seepages of water lower down the face to fill our bottles. After several hours we arrived at southern couloir of the ‘Les Dames Anglaises’.
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Glacier de Frêney from the Grand Pilier d'Angle under moonlight.
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey from the Grand Pilier d'Angle at sunrise.