UKC

Will Bosi on Hubble Interview

© Hot Aches

Earlier this week we reported that Will Bosi had climbed Hubble (9a) at Ravenstor. His ascent marks a continuation of a fantastic year, where he has also climbed Rainshadow (9a) and Monk Life (f8B+) - hugely impressive, particularly due to their differing styles.

Will's ascent is thought to be the youngest, slightly pipping Malcolm Smith to that acolade. Will first tried Hubble over the summer and has come down from Edinburgh several times recently to work the route. Paul Diffley from Hot Aches has been following Will throughout the year, also capturing him on Rainshadow - expect to see a film surface next year...

We caught up with Will and asked him a bit about himself and how he felt post-Hubble.


Can you tell me a little bit about how long you've been climbing and where you normally climb?

So I've been climbing for about 11 years, I normally train at Alien Rock 2 (Edinburgh) and my house.

Tell me about Hubble? What inspired you to try the route?

So Hubble was first climbed by Ben Moon back in 1990 and became the worlds first 8c+ at the time. However, it has now become apparent that Hubble is far harder and is now considered the worlds first 9a. I have always been inspired by the history of the route and its myth like story.

Had you trained specifically for it?

Sort yes, I have been doing a lot of undercut training throughout the year for Rainshadow and with the idea of trying Hubble in mind. However I had no idea it would be possible, at least this year!

I've heard you're on a bit of a Malcolm Smith Pilgrimage - is Malc a climber who inspires you?

In a way yes, as he is one of the climbers who has inspired me the most. His story is some what legendary to all climbers and being able to repeat some of his ascents on these amazing routes is something which really motivates me.

Here's a film showing Malcolm Smith's specific training for Hubble.

Will with his coach and belayer Tom Randall  © Hot Aches/Paul Diffley
Will with his coach and belayer Tom Randall
© Hot Aches/Paul Diffley
You were belayed on your successful redpoint by Tom Randall, your coach. Did having him there help?

Yes it did, as you said Tom has been my coach for a while now and he is always really good at giving encouragement/getting me psyched.

How did you feel clipping the chains?

I can't describe how amazing it felt, it has been a dream of mine for most of my life so to actually achieve it was brilliant.

I've heard you've not stuck to the Hubble broccoli diet. Any comments?

No I'm very weak when it comes to food, my power comes from oatcakes and cookies.

I've got to ask... What are your thoughts on the 8c+/9a debate?

In my opinion it is 9a, I don't have a lot to compare it with but it felt like a 8B+ boulder at least for the crux so it must be pretty hard...

What's next?

So I was meant to be starting College this year but I decided to take a year out and what a good choice that has been! I have the youth World Championships in China amd I'm leaving next Thursday! So there's some training to be done.

Will is sponsored by: Red Chili and Wild Country


For more information Hot Aches


Edinburgh born Will Bosi is one of the world's top climbers. At just 17 years of age, Will became the youngest Brit to have climbed 9a with his repeat of Rainshadow at Malham Cove. In 2018 he became first British male...

Will's Athlete Page 62 posts 34 videos



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