Crag Guides - World: Freney Pillar

Description:
The best approach is from the Ghiglione Hut via the Col More and the Col de Peuterey. Allow 3-6 hours to the foot of the route depending on conditions. The route follows the easiest line up the lower pillar for 12 pitches to the foot of the Chandelle. The final pitches to the foot of the Chandelle can be snow bound. There is a small, but good bivi ledge after the first pitch on the chandelle should you need it. From here climb 6 pitches via cracks and corners on superb granite to the crest of the pillar.

EXIT Either continue up mixed ground for a further 200M to the summit ridge of Mont Blanc, and descend via the Vallot and Mulets Huts, or, follow fixed abseils down the gully between the Central Pillar and the Hidden Pillar.

When to go:
July/August

Tactics
The descent will dictate the style of ascent that you will employ. If you choose to abseil from the summit of the pillar you can leave axes and crampons at the foot of the route, and return directly to them. Such an ascent would be fast, light and relatively 'free'. The down side is that you would miss out on finishing the route at the summit of Mont Blanc. There is also a real risk of being caught out by bad weather high on the route with very little back up equipment. If you choose to go in classic alpine style you will be a little slower on the route and probably use quite a few pegs, however, the classic approach is probably more satisfying.

Rack:

• 15 quickdraws
• 4 spare krabs
• 2 slings
• 1 long sling
• rocks #1-#10
• friends #1,#2,#3,#3.5.
• 2x 9mm x 50M ropes
• Helmets
• Axe and crampons each
• Bivi gear.