Crag Guides - World: Grand Wall Squamish Chief

Description
The crag is a short distance from the road through the large talus at the base of the Chief. Park at the large car-park below the cliff.
Locate and follow the main access trail which leads through the forest. The trail loops over and round large boulders and is marked by red paint marks. The start of the routes "Apron Strings" and "The Flake" lie at the junction of the access trail and the base of the wall.
Either of these routes can be used to access the pitches leading up onto the Grand Wall. It is also possible to get to "Merci Me" by following the base of the wall to the north and working back to the south on the Flake Escape Ledges. This is mostly 3rd class with one short section of 5.7 to move from the initial ledge onto a higher line.

There are many ways up to the base of the Split Pillar (see topo) but it is generally accepted that the finest route is the "Apron Strings/Cruel Shoes" combination and "The Flake Escape Ledges/Merci Me" combination is the easiest and shortest (and still very good).

The "Right Side of Split Pillar" and "The Sword" are the mega classic pitches which follow and many parties rappel from the top of these pitches. It is well worth continuing!

The Bellygood Ledge gives a chance of escape after 9-12 piches but the overall classic status is assured with the final pitches up the Roman Chimney.

When to go
Season extends from April to early October, but best chance of good weather is from mid-June to mid-September.

Tactics
These largely depend on how long you feel you will be on the route. Most parties will have the second carrying a small sack with food, water and shoes for the descent but the route is quite steep from the Split Pillar on and most will find the added weight of sack pretty unwelcome.
If you have the speed you could just go for it and travel light (the walk down in rock shoes isn't too heinous.. really)
The route can be cool on the lower pitches early in the day but most parties will want to get a pretty early start with all those pitches ahead. Anyway you will be wishing you were back in the shade if you get caught for too long on the upper pitches with the sun beating down on you.
Its a great route, enjoy it.

Rack

• Cams (Friend sizes) #‡ - #2 (1 set) #2‡ - #3‡ (2 sets) #4 x1 (optional if not doing the Roman Chimneys)
• Wired Nuts (Rock sizes) #1-#9, Hexes #4-#6, RP's (required for Roman Chimneys but not below),
• 8 draws
• 2 slings
• 4x screwgates
• 2x 9mm x 50m ropes.