Lancashire Quarries and North Wales (mid '60s)
N Lancs limestone and Lakes (late '60s)
Natural Grit ('70s and '80s)
Euro-sport ('90s - now)
Now mainly on top-rope; too old and insufficiently bold, too many broken bits!
Email carl dawson.
Holmfirth and Kalymnos
Best Climbing Experience
Most climbing days including:
100 routes solo on grit in a day.
First 8a redpoint... after 46 year's training!
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Interests Outside Climbing
School data management.
About My Photography
Bog-standard digital with lots of Photoshop cheating.
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Anything Else We Should Know
Passing interest in guidebooks. See 1969 guide to Heysham and Morecambe bouldering... would have been remaindered but there was only one copy. On Peak Rock, Chew, Bleaklow and Kinder Ed. Enjoyed proofing several Rockfax guides (all remaining mistakes are possibly but not necessarily mine). Life-time ambition completed: stop bitching and help edit European guidebooks (Kalymnos 2006, 2008, 2010). Dual residency: Greece and The Hudd.
Been Climbing For
More than 20 years
Sport Rock Climbing
Several times a week
Bird Chimney at Wilton where I started climbing several lifetimes ago.
Winter pegging in the '60s up routes like The Dangler at Houghton and Wilton Wall.
Leucocyte Right at Wilton (my first HVS lead)
Left Wall in 1969 seconding Bill Lounds 2pa
Peapod Curbar (1000th route in 1972 and never done it since)
Fist Full of Crystals and Monopoly and Piece of Mind and Obsession Fatale plus Jasmine and White Wall and Ullyses and Consolation Prize and all those other grit aretes and slabs.
Body Machine at Raven Tor (but I can't do rock-overs!)
Vicious little Peak/Dinbren lines including Bored of the Lies and Sturgeon and Bandits plus Stone the Loach (but only because it was my first 7c lead) and Sea is a Brown Paper Bag and Vision of Loveliness all of whose crimpy holds now fill me with dismay.
Zinc Oxide Mountain and Pump Hitler at Portland
Baboo Baboo plus Herbie and New Dawn (but definitely not the rest of Malham!)
Black Magic at Pex
All of the Torrent de Pareis in Majorca (including the full swim)
El Latido del Meurte
Primera Linea and Energia Positiva at Bruixes; some of the best stamina routes at their grade in the world.
Rigpa at Baume Rousse
after 6 years of effort!
Elegy at night torchless; silly
Buf! at Alaro (for its hand jam of course)
Green Traverse at Stanage (because it's there)
Problem 24 in the on-line guide at Holmfirth Edge; better than the above and one of the very best mid-grade boulder problems)
Priapos and Aegialis
tufa-cave extra-ordinaires - but which is the world's best?
Marci Marc (even if did leave my knee behind on the crux) and Angelica (Arhi)
for obvious reasons.
Night Glue at LPT (my first 7a+ lead)
The southern Euro-classics (Obelix & Grain de Pouissiere at Tina Dalle and L'Assistant at St Leger and Sous le signe de taureau at Chateauvert plus Aquarelle at Bauchet and Meme pas Mal at Orpierrre not forgetting Ileou at St Antonin and Peggy La Cochonne at Seynes first attempt and the beefy L'Any que ve Tambe and Garlic Soup at Rodellar also Menopausia at Los Vados and Occident at Bruixes and the hard Il Gatto at Cala Fuili plus Ya Sonos Olimpicos at Sella)
Easy Skankin at Rifle
Fear & Loathing at Red Rocks
Speak the Truth at Hall Moor the perfect grit arete and I wonder if it's even still there.
Hamish Ted's at Dunkeld in pouring rain because Scotland does have some superb sport routes.
Children of Mycenae in the Argolis bolted just for my visit thanks Jim. FA
Schweizerhalle Lehn. OS
Ten Years After at Hodge and The Ghost Direct at Dalkey... big journeys.
Kitten Claws at Barcud for the beauty of the North Pembroke coast (there was a baby adder waiting for me at the top
and almost all the Cuillin Ridge (minus the thunderstorm)
Road Rage 7b+
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