Bitten by the same bug as everyone else on here... Spent many years doing trad, easy sport and a bit of Scottish/Welsh mixed - going climbing in an unsystematic way at the same standard. However, at the start of 2009 I decided to take a fresh approach. I re-evaluated all aspects of my climbing with the aim of improving, focused on sport climbing. Went from F6c to F7c+ in four years (whereas Malcolm Smith went from starting climbing to climbing Hubble in four years). I love it all even more than ever now and I'm enjoying climbing better. These days I'm a real fan of sport climbing in Cheddar. Happy to put multiple days into projects, also enjoy ticking easier routes. Love trad in the Wye Valley etc too. Have car, rack, ropes. Work flexible hours so can often grab a weekday at short notice.
Late September 2013: Had to stop climbing completely as of early April due to severe pain in my right shoulder Just had surgery on it to sort out various problems (bone spurs causing thinned tendon and full depth rotator cuff muscle tear, collarbone trimmed to stop tendon impingement). Doing all the rehab so that I can climb again as soon as possible. It's going to take some time.
December 2013 rehab update: Just about to start rehab with light resistance. Driving and cycling again. All very exciting!
April 2014 update: First session of (easy) outdoor climbing in just over a year after building up (slowly and gently) over the last couple of months with indoor bouldering. Shoulder didn't explode and it's great to be back!
July 2014 update: F7a first try after a quick top rope go so I really am back. Very happy.
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Anything Else We Should Know
Favourite leads: FA of 3* F7c Directoonima link on Pride Evans in Cheddar. How Crocker et al missed that one I will never know...
Also Get Kimitri! Pyrotechnician (Left), Driller Killer Q'est-ce Que C'est?, Fettered Trajectory, Playboys, Sloth, Great North Road, Cenotaph Corner, Les Etourdis, La Colere Du Ciel, Caturgeas, Clogwyn Dhu Y Gully Left Hand, Visite Obligatoire. Favourite 2nds (all too hard for me to lead for now anyway): Fallout Corner, Erection, Juvsoyla. Favourite solos: Manchester Buttress, Paradise Wall, Heather Wall, The Conger.
And this: http://tinyurl.com/angryaboutsomethingoninternet
It's not advice I always follow but I'm getting there...
"the moment we think we have attained the goal, we lose it. Success is empty. The sum of all our luck, judgements, lessons learned and heeded, elevation gained and lost, our fitness and skill is zero". Steve House