Writer, photographer, film maker, rockclimber, and 'has-been' alpinist (last Alpine season 1972!). No longer rockclimbing (since April 2007) since onset of eyesight problem (macular pucker), but still walk hundreds of miles a year in the Peak. Am now slowly putting highlights of my rock climbing into the UKC logbook. Just the landmark routes i.e. those that seemed important or special at the time. It's very much an ongoing project - have done 1966 to 1994 so far. There's also all foreign climbs still to add ... Must get around to finishing it one day. Loads of climbs not mentioned.
Best Climbing Experience
Literally dozens, but first great one was getting to top of the Zinal Rothorn in 1967. Others: when my twin brother and I both led Cenotaph Corner on sight at separate times on the same day in 1970 (a big pub celebration that night!); getting back to the road alive (just!) after 3-day epic on Store Trolltind in Norway in 1969; arriving at the cave on Vector in 1983; getting to the tree at the top of Debauchery after onsight lead in 1995; taking all my medium format camera gear to the summit of Kala Pattar on a very cold night with a full moon to get shots of sunrise on Everest in 1999; returning to Store Trolltind with John in July 2013, climbing to the summit, and thereby 'completing' the Fiva Route 44 years and 4 days after our 1969 epic - quite a moving farewell to the mountains, because my damaged eyesight means I can no longer see my feet well enough to place them accurately. So what? I have no regrets at all; have had a great time.
Favourite Climbing-Related Discussion Topic
No particular. I used to be interested in anything and everything connected with climbing, but am now now more interested in the whole context of climbing, in both the natural and political world. 2014: I'm now most interested in writing, talking (ideas), and walking with friends.
Latest Blog posts
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- A very sad centenary 01-Jul-16
- The Disunited Kingdom 25-Jun-16
- The blackest day in UK history for 77 years 24-Jun-16
- The Breakers of Britain – my view of the Brexiters 20-Jun-16
- A Pandora’s Box: ‘George’ update, June 2016 31-May-16
- “Something rotten in the state” of our media 28-Apr-16
- “Something rotten in the state” of our press 28-Apr-16
- 'George' project update, Xmas 2015 28-Dec-15
- Strange mistakes in European history & geography 4/4: The European Union 28-Dec-15
- Strange mistakes in European history & geography 3/4: Human rights 28-Dec-15
Articles by Gordon Stainforth
- An interview with Joe Brown (DVD) Nov/2008
- Some Words On Mountain Photography by Gordon Stainforth Aug/2007
- "The Crux" 150 years of British climbing in 25 images Dec/2005
- Which Calendar for 2006? Dec/2005
- Jim Perrin's The Villain Mar/2005
Interests Outside Climbing
Nature in general: the whole natural world and the mysteries of the cosmos. Writing - fiction and non-fiction; writing screenplays; philosophy; medium and large format landscape and mountain photography; film editing; music editing for feature films (music editor on The Shining and The Dresser); publishing and book design; web design (using CSS and PHP); hillwalking; history; classical music (partic. Bach and Beethoven), English pubs with real ale, no 'music' and open fires.
About My Photography
No comment, apart from the fact that after years of using medium and large format film I find the latest advances in digital photography very exciting, and very liberating for photography in general.
Click to list photo comments written by me. (369 comments)
I've voted for 440 photos, average vote 3.7.
(25% superb - 36% good - 23% average - 11% poor - 2% rubbish)
Anything Else We Should Know
I can't stand bigotry and narrow-mindedness (i.e. various kinds of brainwashing, in politics, the arts, or science).
I think George Dubya is seriously bad news for the world - politically, economically and ecologically. (That comment was made in 2003, and I'm not at all happy to say that my prediction proved horribly correct).
I now think that Barack Obama represents the best hope, not just for America, but for the whole world. (Comment made in 2007, before Obama was elected.)
2016 - I think the new 'Dislike' button is a seriously retrogressive innovation to the forums on this website and has a detrimental impact on intelligent, critical discussion. It seems to me to be a rather pathetic pandering to the lazy, button-clicking, point-scoring world that we now live in.
July 2016. Since the Brexit referendum result, the non-climbing discussions here have become so generally unattractive and witless that until there's a radical improvement I shall only partake in threads related to climbing.
User Profileregistered 29/Dec/02
Been Climbing For
More than 20 years
Trad - E2
Bouldering - V4
Trad Rock Climbing
Several times a year
In the UK, Europe & USA
In no particular order:
West Flank Route (Arran)
Five Finger Exercise
Great North Road
Birch Tree Wall Brimham
Technical Slab (Roaches) with Neb finish
Moss Ghyll Grooves
Main Wall (Cyrn Las)
New West Route
Belle Vue Bastion
Slim Finger Crack
West Wall (S/E Sandstone)
Nordryggen / North Ridge 1
Inaccessible Crack VS 4c
Old Friends E4 5c
Impossible Slab E3 5c
Nelson's Slab HS 5a
Sewer Turn VS 4c
The Left Unconquerable E1 5b
East Ridge VD 3c
Scavenger VS 4c
Jean Jeanie VS 4c
Assagai HVS 5a
Owl's ArÍte HS 4c
P.M.C.1 HS 4a
Bel Ami VS 4b
Left Embrasure VS 4b
... list all 928 climbs
Connoisseur's Classic Rock 20%
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 29%
Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck 8%
... list all 3 ticklists
... not setup