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Topic - Kyloe-In-The-Woods ROUTES.

Fiend - on 18 Apr 2006
Yes, routes. Obviously a crag that is very popular for bouldering, but a quick glance at the guide, or indeed upwards of the chalky 3m in front of one's nose, will reveal a whole host of excellent mid-grade route lines.

However, many people, myself included, will have seen the moss and pine needles at the finishes of many routes, and thought that they were not really in climbable condition.

Well, I went along with the intention of doing some cleaning, and found on closer inspection, that almost all the classic routes were in good enough condition anyway. So we did them and they were great. Obviously this is after some good, windy, weather, but with a whole summer ahead there should be some more of that.

The following classic routes are clean and dry enough to top out safely and enjoyably:

Elf Direct E1 5c * - Plenty of clean fluting jugs to finish. Good wall climbing with a thin first move and generally nice holds. I think the Elf VS 5a * might be in good enough condition too.

Bad Finger E2 5c ** (maybe E1 5c **?) - Plenty of clean fluting jugs to finish. Bouldery route that is steep, fun and amenable, nice flutings to aim for.

Bad Company E2 5c ** - Plenty of clean fluting jugs to finish, slightly dusty below but good enough crimps. A good, substantial, and powerful route. Well worth taking a rope and gear!

Monty Python's Flying Circus VS 6a *** (more like VS 6b **) - Good tree root and jugs to finish. Although no VS leader will get that far - absolutely desperate start that makes Red Rum (for example) look like a descent route. Fairly substantial above as it's still steep.

Crack Of Gloom MVS 4c *** - Easy finish with slight but unproblematic dampness. Big old traditionally crack climbing, good line.

Thin Hand Special E1 5c *** (more like E0 5b....okay, if you insist, HVS 5b ***) - Plenty of clean jugs to finish. Very amenable and enjoyable - steep climbing with excellent jams and jugs, who could ask for more ;).

The Flutings Direct VS 4c ** - Plenty of clean jugs to finish. Very nice climb up a lovely line / feature, good holds and elegant reaches.

Zed Climb VS 4c ** - Good jugs, there is a greasy hold but it doesn't affect the climbing. Striking line with easy climbing leading to quite a sting in the tail.

The Harp VS 5a *** (more like VS 5b ***) - Good clean slab to finish, traverse looks green but is dry and juggy. Great route with an unexpectedly adventurous feel. Start is desperate but the rest is pure fun.

Bobby Dazzler HVS 5c ** (maybe E1 5c **?) - Plenty of clean fluting jugs to finish. Another irresistable flutings line, with a bouldery crux and no gear, then an easy finish. Committing and satisfying.

The Crucifix HVS 5a *** (more like HVS 5b ***) - Clean jamming to finish. Another desperate start, then butch but solid jamming, a beefy classic.

The Gauntlet E1 5b *** - Enough clean rock to finish, good cams just below. Nice elegant line that lends itself to a technical and committing start. Watch out for the bold middle section!


Other routes of note:

Red Rum E2 6a *** (more like V1 5c **) - Despite the blatant lying photo caption in the recent guide, the top few metres are filthy and unclimbable.

High T E3 5c *** - This wall can look very damp and actually be almost completely dry. However whilst most of the route is in good condition, the ridiculously reachy-looking finish has some damp pockets and slightly damp finishing holds.

SO...

Next time you're in Northumberland, you can either join the queues at Bowden, Kyloe Out, and Corby's, increase the over-use and erosion of those honeypots....OR you can go somewhere more peaceful, with the excellent routes listed, help keep a great crag in good condition, and amaze the boulderers by being able to climb cracks and getting more than 3m off the deck. You know what to do.
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