/ NEWS: Neil Gresham solos The Flying Dutchman E7, Lundy
Story in the news section of UKClimbing.com
DWS? It looks from the picture you need to be accurate at falling off to hit water.
Yes, hence the S grades in use nowadays. DWS isnt always safe.
After nasty landings off tre branches and diving boards in water DWS is off my list of things to do. I do know one in the IOM that may not have had a DWS yet if you are interested?
Fourth Dimension is supposed to be excellent and may be another DWS. Unfortunately missed out on the FA as a rope of three was a bit much on unknown ground.
> DWS? It looks from the picture you need to be accurate at falling off to hit water.
I don't think the guy in the picture is on the route Neil Climbing, I think it is nearer the overhanging arch by the sounds of the news report? And the tide was probably in a bit!
The route is on the other side of the arch from the photo, there are no routes, yet, on the underside of the arch. He soloed the first pitch, reconed to be about 7c. The tides were massive - around 8.5m - and the route is above a deep channel - so as safe as DWSing gets.
Also last week, Nic Sellers on-sighted (with ropes) Tim Emmett's E7 next to Antiworlds. Nic thought it more like E6 and F7b climbing, rather than E7 and F7c. He on-sighted four other E6s.
Nic flashed The Flying Dutchman in 2003 (with ropes...)
Bon efforts all round!
Is this the same route as 'Flying the Colours' posibly minus a Gibson bolt?
This is all a bit inaccurate I'm afraid. Neil soloed the firt pitch only of the Flying Dutchman and traversed off onto HVS ground, apparently DWS 1 7c and very impressive. Also Nic Sellars 1 pitch ascent was in 2003 not 1995.
> This is all a bit inaccurate I'm afraid. Neil soloed the firt pitch only of the Flying Dutchman and traversed off onto HVS ground, apparently DWS 1 7c and very impressive. Also Nic Sellars 1 pitch ascent was in 2003 not 1995.
> Paul Harrison
I think you will find that that is what is says Paul.
Mick ; 0 )
It traverses out to and then follows the line of the arete in the photo.
The desperate, unrepeated, infinitely desirable and highly under-rated route 'Kulus' reaches the traverse directly from the groove below at E6 6c.
Can we have a bit more realism in the reportage on UKC please. I spoke with Nick White last night (followed him on the first ascent), and we both agreed that the first pitch was E5 6b or f7b max. People like to omit all sorts of important detail when reporting DWS ascents - for example, safely jumping off low down on a route, in order to avoid what may be a considerable amount of scary climbing above.
> Can we have a bit more realism in the reportage on UKC please. I spoke with Nick White last night (followed him on the first ascent), and we both agreed that the first pitch was E5 6b or f7b max.
Er, it's usually the climbers overhyping French grades of trad routes and not the journos.
Firstly, what relevance does your post have to the original thread?
Secondly, what makes you think I am, in any way, religious?
He abbed it, cleaned it, fell off it first go, got it second. Not sure of the grade, Neil (Youth) was being typically understated and I wouldn't want to stick my neck out on this forum and quote him wrongly. Not sure of the name, Reticent Man was a fitting suggestion.
Youth also removed the bolt on Intensive Care and reclimbed it, and did a new route, maybe E7, somewhere else. Pickford and Dr Garthwaite did a new two pitch E5 in Starship Zawn and Woodburn did Out Come the Freaks in the Black Hole without the bolt (Now hammered flat as corroded) at a similar grade. Harry Pennells climbed Some Crack in Nine Toed Zawn, an excellent (they say) HVS that looks like E5! Some other stuff was climbed too.
Fine effort all round - conditions were rubbish for much of the two weeks.
Elsewhere on the site
Atom Series: Synthetic insulated mid layers AR: All-Round. Significantly warmer and more protective than a fleece hoody, this... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
Skiing Baffin’s couloirs has been on my to do list ever since I saw Andrew McLean and Brad Barlage’s inspirational... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more