/ Czech: Michal Madera, Narcissus ground up - PHOTOS

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Mr Justice Cocklecarrot on 06 Nov 2007 - 78.145.166.131 whois?
While at Froggatt on Sunday I took a few snaps of Michal Madera climbing Narcissus, E6 6b, ground up. He took a fall from 20+ feet onto a pad immediately after I took the last photo, and then finished the route while I was busy flailing away seconding Diamond Crack. I'm not sure how long he had been working it prior to getting my camera out.

I have his email address if anyone wishes to make contact.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8345564@N03/
withey - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot:

Firstly, well done that man.

Secondly. Sorry to be the first, but is someone about to toprope Oedipus?
sihills - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot: This makes me giggle was at Froggat and lot of respect to the bloke jumped of from a fair old height onto the mats and made the route look piss easy to be honest, saw him back of an E1 at burbage the day before. Its a funny old world!
Fiend - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to withey:

Indeed. Good effort to him on the Narcissus "padpoint", respect to that.


Totally lame effort to the losers abusing a classic Peak District solo. If you can't climb it, don't climb it.



Two different worlds....
broughton power on 07 Nov 2007 - 194.150.177.9 whois?
In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot: good effort and all that on Narcissus but is this really news ?
In reply to broughton power: It's not news. Which is why it isn't in the news section.
Jon Read - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to TobyA:
I think you'll find it is mentioned ...
broughton power on 07 Nov 2007 - 194.150.177.9 whois?
In reply to TobyA: ok but check the ukc news page
johncoxmysteriously - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to broughton power:

It's not news you berk it's beta. Now naff off and let us study the pictures.....

jcm
In reply to broughton power: It is in the news section? It's not on my computer?!? Has Mick just added it?
In reply to TobyA: OK - its hidden after some sport climbing business that I hadn't read. Mystery resolved.
broughton power on 07 Nov 2007 - 194.150.177.9 whois?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: chillout
Richard Bradley - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to broughton power: That with or without an irony smiley?
Michael Ryan - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to broughton power:
> (In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot) good effort and all that on Narcissus but is this really news ?

Yes it is, not groundbreaking, but I could easily justify putting it alongside the new route at High Tor and Smitton's ascent of an 8c. Bit of a Peaky round-up.

Jus - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot:

Why is the fact that he's a Czech got to do with it?

Joking , joking...
Anonymous on 07 Nov 2007 - 84-45-171-241.no-dns-yet.enta.net
In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot:

Narcissus was one of the first grit E6s to recieve a ground-up ascent, over twenty-five years ago now. So only news in the fact that *shock* on a busy sunday at froggatt not everybody was climbing v diffs in bad style.
Graham Hoey - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

But John, as he fell off just after the last photo he's clearly doing it wrong (or is he?). The scariest kind of beta!
Not E6 though, E4 is generally reckoned for a moderately matted ascent. Without the mats, I very much doubt he'd have got back on.
Graham
Ram MkiV - on 07 Nov 2007
it got onsighted yesterday as well. dunno what the pad situation was. good efforts.
Mr Justice Cocklecarrot on 07 Nov 2007 - host-84-13-129-233.opaltelecom.net.129.13.84.in-addr.arpa
In reply to Graham Hoey:

Without the mats he'd still be in the Hallamshire having his ankles pinned back together.
John Lisle - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to Jus:

>
> Why is the fact that he's a Czech got to do with it?
>


'cos he bounces?

: )

J
Mini - on 07 Nov 2007
In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot:

I think its a great effort, especially withh all those people around watching - no added pressuree there then!
Craig Smith on 08 Nov 2007 - cf-cf208-002.sbs.man.ac.uk
In reply to Graham Hoey:

Agreed Graham. I remember asking Johnny Woodward in Stoney cafe why he couldn't walk so well. His reply: I fell off of said route and smashed the bottoms of both of my heels...

Pads and a hanging rope...I rest my case.

X

C
Jon Read - on 08 Nov 2007
In reply to Craig Smith:
I certainly hobbled around for a couple of weeks after falling from almost where that chap is. I tried to aim for the carefully placed rope-in-a-rucksac, but missed by an inch ...
Adam Long - on 08 Nov 2007
In reply:

When I first went to Froggatt it was with Steve Bancroft, he reckoned back in the early eighties the landing was nearly two foot higher (as evidenced by the tide mark round the base of the arete) and, I quote, 'verdant green pasture'. Can any one confirm how close this is to the truth?

It would certainly make the fall a lot nicer, obviously not to the same extent as pads, but I'm not convinced two or three pads make this route E4. The move is still hard, and high up, and pads are only of use if you land well. We had to carry a friend to hospital after he fell off the last move of Mint 400, despite having several pads.
stp - on 08 Nov 2007
In reply to Adam L:

Well whatever the grade pads must make it significantly easier proposition. Apart from the move pads make it easy to bail out from too - so less commitment needed.
krank - on 09 Nov 2007
In reply to stp:
Up you pop then :)
Adam Moroz - on 09 Nov 2007
In reply to krank:
> (In reply to stp)
> Up you pop then :)

Not before me.....
krank - on 09 Nov 2007
In reply to Adam Moroz:
Not before you've been WALKIN, get of to snowdon you slacker.
Adam Moroz - on 09 Nov 2007
In reply to krank: I believe the correct term is scrambling...
ali k on 09 Nov 2007
In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot: i did this on tuesday on-sight without any pads or spotters.

i remember thinking how much it hurt my ankles when i jumped off the back of the pinnacle afterwards from about 1 metre up...then thinking how much it would have hurt if i'd come off the crux. i would imagine quite a lot!
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bryn marsh - on 11 Nov 2007
In reply to ali k: fair play mate, i was on the route today and my mate soloed it with pads. I agree its not too bad with them but there are still 6b moves high, and to onsight it with no pads is a really good effort.
mark s - on 12 Nov 2007
In reply to Adam L:
> In reply:
>
> We had to carry a friend to hospital after he fell off the last move of Mint 400, despite having several pads.

i remember the blood squirting of the the split in his ankle.
mark s - on 12 Nov 2007
In reply to ali k: good effort,think i was walking down off roaches as you were heading up stairs on fri p.m
Jon Read - on 12 Nov 2007
In reply to Adam L:
> It would certainly make the fall a lot nicer, obviously not to the same extent as pads, but I'm not convinced two or three pads make this route E4. The move is still hard, and high up, and pads are only of use if you land well. We had to carry a friend to hospital after he fell off the last move of Mint 400, despite having several pads.

But they landed badly then? We shouldn't grade well protected routes for people who can't place gear properly.

The bottom line is this: if pads really don't make a difference (either physically or mentally), then why do we use them? It is afterall a right pain to ge tthem to the crag, what with the rope, rack, rucksac, the down kitchen sink, etc.

Bravo to the chap who shunned the pads; a fully historic experience. I'm thinking of getting some EBs...
Fiend - on 12 Nov 2007
In reply to ali k:

> i did this on tuesday on-sight without any pads or spotters.

Very good effort Ali, a lot of respect for that. More significant than a lot of gritstone toss going on at the moment.

How scary was it on a scale of, say, 1-10??



P.S. Readza, I think Adam's point is due to the nature of the route a couple of pads won't drop it 2 full grades to E4, although one assumes they will still make a difference (to arbitrarily play with numbers, maybe drop it to E5?).
ali k on 12 Nov 2007
In reply to Fiend:

it was surprisingly ok doing the crux moves, but then i got the boss next to the high crack (which looked like an absolute jug from the bottom but wasn't!!) and ended up matching and cutting loose while swinging round the arete...that was pretty exciting!

the way i did the crux sequence though it seemed pretty irreversible after leaving the good crimp at the top of the flake so i didn't have much choice anyway...either i did it or i did myself some damage on the way down!
ali k on 12 Nov 2007
In reply to mark s: yeh that'd be me. got upstairs just as it started pissing down so sacked it off pretty soon after!
Adam Long - on 13 Nov 2007
In reply to Jon Read:

You're clearly playing Devil's advocate, but pads are not comparable to badly placed pro. If you come off from 30 feet you are going to hurt yourself unless you are in perfect control. I think you would need a lot of pads, say five minumum, before you can call these routes E4. Oedipus is E4 - its very easy in comparison.

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