/ Czech: Michal Madera, Narcissus ground up - PHOTOS
I have his email address if anyone wishes to make contact.
Firstly, well done that man.
Secondly. Sorry to be the first, but is someone about to toprope Oedipus?
Indeed. Good effort to him on the Narcissus "padpoint", respect to that.
Totally lame effort to the losers abusing a classic Peak District solo. If you can't climb it, don't climb it.
Two different worlds....
I think you'll find it is mentioned ...
It's not news you berk it's beta. Now naff off and let us study the pictures.....
Yes it is, not groundbreaking, but I could easily justify putting it alongside the new route at High Tor and Smitton's ascent of an 8c. Bit of a Peaky round-up.
Why is the fact that he's a Czech got to do with it?
Joking , joking...
Narcissus was one of the first grit E6s to recieve a ground-up ascent, over twenty-five years ago now. So only news in the fact that *shock* on a busy sunday at froggatt not everybody was climbing v diffs in bad style.
But John, as he fell off just after the last photo he's clearly doing it wrong (or is he?). The scariest kind of beta!
Not E6 though, E4 is generally reckoned for a moderately matted ascent. Without the mats, I very much doubt he'd have got back on.
Without the mats he'd still be in the Hallamshire having his ankles pinned back together.
> Why is the fact that he's a Czech got to do with it?
'cos he bounces?
I think its a great effort, especially withh all those people around watching - no added pressuree there then!
Agreed Graham. I remember asking Johnny Woodward in Stoney cafe why he couldn't walk so well. His reply: I fell off of said route and smashed the bottoms of both of my heels...
Pads and a hanging rope...I rest my case.
I certainly hobbled around for a couple of weeks after falling from almost where that chap is. I tried to aim for the carefully placed rope-in-a-rucksac, but missed by an inch ...
When I first went to Froggatt it was with Steve Bancroft, he reckoned back in the early eighties the landing was nearly two foot higher (as evidenced by the tide mark round the base of the arete) and, I quote, 'verdant green pasture'. Can any one confirm how close this is to the truth?
It would certainly make the fall a lot nicer, obviously not to the same extent as pads, but I'm not convinced two or three pads make this route E4. The move is still hard, and high up, and pads are only of use if you land well. We had to carry a friend to hospital after he fell off the last move of Mint 400, despite having several pads.
Well whatever the grade pads must make it significantly easier proposition. Apart from the move pads make it easy to bail out from too - so less commitment needed.
Up you pop then :)
> Up you pop then :)
Not before me.....
Not before you've been WALKIN, get of to snowdon you slacker.
i remember thinking how much it hurt my ankles when i jumped off the back of the pinnacle afterwards from about 1 metre up...then thinking how much it would have hurt if i'd come off the crux. i would imagine quite a lot!
> We had to carry a friend to hospital after he fell off the last move of Mint 400, despite having several pads.
i remember the blood squirting of the the split in his ankle.
But they landed badly then? We shouldn't grade well protected routes for people who can't place gear properly.
The bottom line is this: if pads really don't make a difference (either physically or mentally), then why do we use them? It is afterall a right pain to ge tthem to the crag, what with the rope, rack, rucksac, the down kitchen sink, etc.
Bravo to the chap who shunned the pads; a fully historic experience. I'm thinking of getting some EBs...
Very good effort Ali, a lot of respect for that. More significant than a lot of gritstone toss going on at the moment.
How scary was it on a scale of, say, 1-10??
P.S. Readza, I think Adam's point is due to the nature of the route a couple of pads won't drop it 2 full grades to E4, although one assumes they will still make a difference (to arbitrarily play with numbers, maybe drop it to E5?).
it was surprisingly ok doing the crux moves, but then i got the boss next to the high crack (which looked like an absolute jug from the bottom but wasn't!!) and ended up matching and cutting loose while swinging round the arete...that was pretty exciting!
the way i did the crux sequence though it seemed pretty irreversible after leaving the good crimp at the top of the flake so i didn't have much choice anyway...either i did it or i did myself some damage on the way down!
You're clearly playing Devil's advocate, but pads are not comparable to badly placed pro. If you come off from 30 feet you are going to hurt yourself unless you are in perfect control. I think you would need a lot of pads, say five minumum, before you can call these routes E4. Oedipus is E4 - its very easy in comparison.
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