/ Snowdonia conditions?
Llyn Celyn and cloud inversion over Bala:
Snowdon and the Glyders:
Leaving Arenig Fach:
very cold and icy, and the decent down the devils kitchen path was treacherous, many slips and falls taken on the way down because of the Ice!
good fun out there though!
I did a 20 k hill run over Moelwyn Mawr, Moelwyn Bach, Moel Yr Hydd, Foel Ddu, Allt Fawr, Moel Druman and Cnicht, followed by an 85 k road ride from Porthmadog over the Migneint and back via beddgel, brilliant weekend.
Some pics from yesterday here, and as you can see at 700m there was a dusting at best.
Nice photos by the way, I still haven't done much down in the Moelwyns.
Yesterday was my first trip to the Arenigs, again simply because you can't access them using public transport (with the exception of Rhobel Fawr and co from the Coed y Brenin). I really need to learn to drive!
You all need to think out the box. Mixed is where it is at. What do most folk do in Scotland this time of year, not gullies or Ice routes.
This weekend, 4, first winter ascents of climbs on major crags done. There is plenty of snow on the less steep cliffs and the turf, that is proper turf not the grassy stuff is bomber .
Also other folk have had great mountaineering days out on graded scrambles .
> You all need to think out the box. Mixed is where it is at.
> Also other folk have had great mountaineering days out on graded scrambles .
I agree. All I'm saying is that gullies were never going to be in this weekend. And people can do whatever they want, I ran and road biked, I met another mate who was walking in the area, another mate who was climbing at tremadog.
I must admit I'm suprised mixed routes were in though. It didn't seem that cold, yesterday at least.
I just cannpt see how anyone could have been left 'dissapointed' from this weekend.
I'm just back from Snowdonia having a brillant weekend of mixed climbing and scrambling. Did Craig LLoer Spur on Saturday pitching the slab traverse with some hooking and climbing then short roping the rest on frozen turf and rock steps to the summit of Pen Y Ole. We watched the sun set over Snowdon from Dafydd before descending back to Glen Dena by head torch. There where heaps of folk on the Glyders coming off in the dark, it looked like fireflys over the massif.
Today it felt alot colder on the summits with the wind and a hard frost over night. Went and did the North Ridge of Tryfan which was great on the compacted snow. Just needed to protect one slab but there is plenty of water ice forming at the mo. The gullies on Tryfan where all thin but well frozen and a couple of teams where out today having a look.
With some more snow it could but really good, just wait and see.
Sorry my reply to you sounded a bit harsh. I agree there was no point in going in gullies at all and again your spot on in view of what people were doing. Any one not having a top day out this weekend in the hills must have been !
the forecast looks very good for this week, all the way until a week today
hard frost here .... by the coast !
Cwm Bodlyn has to be in .... any one up for a walk ..... ?
second picture down on this page the crag and ice are right of centre ?
Im just down the road .... a 4X4 may get you real close?? ... next to the dam below the crag ...
>over Snowdon from Dafydd before descending back to Glen Dena by head torch. There where heaps of folk on the Glyders coming off in the dark, it looked like fireflys over the massif.
I noticed that too. There were even some lights high up on Tryfan East Face so I hope they got down alright.
I didn't say we were expecting winter conditions, just that it was a bit dissapointing becasue it would have been nice to have a bit more snow up there, and also would be nice if it was more hard packed...thats just my feelings tho. Also, who says we winter climbed a gully, just headed up one, snow was far too powdery to winter climb!
The OP asked for reports on what people had done, and what the conditions were like...thats what I gave!
things just keep getting better. Another top day out, second ascent of two routes done today. More snow and rime up high.
any one up for a bodlyn wander tomorrow ?
cold and hard here already ?
Any more info on the area you where climbing in. ie which crag. Looks like a good route.
Whats the best bet crag wise for winter stuff to be in? If conditions are worth it sod lectures, winter climbing is far more important!
Just seen your post. As a general rule, the places to come into condition quickest in Snowdonia are Upper Cwm Glas, Cwm Cneifion or Trinity face area. I've no idea exactly what the conditions are doing, but looking at the webcams and going on past experience of the Welsh winter, I'm guessing cold temps, a thininsh layer of powdery stuff and maybe some ice higher up?
If that is the case, then the gully's probably arn't the best option as they may not be consolidated but I could be wrong. I'd have thought buttress or mixed style routes would be better. Any of the common scrambles would be fun, generally get around grade I / II in winter - N Ridge of Tryfan, Bristly Ridge, Grybin, Snowdon Horseshoe etc are all easy but well worth it under snow. Also, the D/ VD line on the East face of tryfan are apparently doable in snow but probably unpleasant!
You could try the Clogwyny y Person arete in Cwm Glas - that will be snow covered and always goes in the snow. Gets II/III in the guide but can be hard at times.
If it is icy, then Tower Slabs in Cwm Cneifion might go but I doubt this is in condition. Some one else might know.
Looks like the Trinity gullys have been climbed recently. I have no idea what they were like.
Email me if you want any other suggestions and I'll dig the guide out. Cicerone do a Welsh winter guide.
Enjoy! (and no, I'm not jealous at all!)
I would expect The Great Arete to have it in stock at the moment.
Any reliable mountain forecast for the weekend been given yet ?
Um, how's anyone going to know that until the weekend? :-/
I thought that that was the point of Forecasts.
I meant weather forecats rather than actual ice and snow conditions. A track of the freeze thaw cycle over the preceeding days hepls build the picture. Plus the actual forecast of conditions on the hill (e.g. will it be blowing a blzzard / pissing it down ) does help decision making on venues ( i.e. sod Wales I'm off to the Lakes etc) , does it not ??
> I thought that that was the point of Forecasts.
Yeah, I know, and am guessing you really meant [normally] reliable forecasts, but still thought your choice of wording (with that implied whiff of clairvoyance) interesting! :-)
Christs sake guys, this stuff about forecasts is !!!!
In terms of mixed climbs on certain aspects, it been the best conditions over the last few years currentley
Temps are forecast to rise over the next few days, but still cold, so probably a very very gentle thaw.
Its still early in the season, but looking good.
Look for the Dotted line (isometic) with a marking of 528 as this represents the very cold air for the UK, where it crosses the UK = sub zero temps for all areas on and above that line.
Climbing Pen yr Ole Wen
The Black Ladders
View over Y Foel Goch to Cadair Idris
Heading to Yr Elen
Black Ladders again
Another top day in Wales was had today. Between the 3 teams 5 routes done- 2 new routes, 2 first winter ascents of routes and an ascent of a classic route.
Today has to be one of those classic days out, turf bomber, crags covered in snow, blue skies and no wind.
Cracking day for a long day in the Carneddau.
Anyway for those who want some helpful conditions reports, today we climbed Pillar Chimney Variation on Clogwyn Du in Cwn Cnieffion under bluebird skies. Conditions were very good, rimed rock, mostly well frozen turf, lots of powder snow on ledges. Found the 2nd pitch crux slab getting round the corner to be pretty testy but well protected, I've climbed easier tech 5, it gets 4 in the guide, perhaps in easier conditions it would be. A really good mid grade mixed route (I'ld suggest IV 5) which should be in condition for the rest of the week with the freezing levels forecast to remain at 800 or lower with more snow on the way tonight.
There was also a party on Clogwyn Left Branch, the top pitch looks stella with lots of ice, bottom reported to be quite bare but good fun.
Some good pics of conditions on Clogwyn Du here: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
check out 'The Crack' and 'Travesty' sick!
May I also suggest this would be a great place for trip reports, photos etc.
Anyway you seem to have had a top day. I would say that grade is for when its go a fair bit of ice in it. The crag does look in very good nick.
I'ld love to see lots more winter climbers out in wales repeating mixed stuff when conditions are good like right now, instead of thinking that winter climbing is all about waiting 3 years for a chance to ascend a semi-frozen idwal stream by headtorch with 300 other punters.
And hey! who really cares who got the first FWA of 'ancientclassicroutex' anyway - they've all been done by James Archer Thompson in the 19th century with a coal hatchet for an ice axe!
Anyway - looks superb. Very jealous. I'll be over not too far away from N. Wales for Xmas and N. Year and if the conditions stay anything like this I'll probably be starting begging threads asking if anyone wants to do a route with me!
So to summarise, conditions in Snowdonia pretty good? Worth the drive up tomorrow for some easy stuff?
Thanks for the reply! I guess I'll bump it up later this afternoon and see if anyone's been out today
Dont sit at home listening to all those who say its too warm, get out there and explore, plenty of people have moaned about its too warm the past few days, what the hell do they know? plenty of people have been out and got some great climbs done.
Think that's from yesterday - sadly...
Second Mark's comment, weds may have been the nicest weather but there's going to be some freeze thaw going on now which is going to firm up whatever powdery snow that survives. So some of those easier gullies could well be worth a look if you don't mind scratching around a bit as well.
Long range forecast is looking cold enough.
I am off to North Wales tomorrow. There will allways be something to do... Just be flexible and explore a bit
EL MANCHO IS ONE OF THE BEST ROUTES IN THE UK. ITS HAD ONLY 4 ASCENTS ALL FROM NORTH WALES BASED CLIMBERS . ALL OF THEM RAVE ON THE QUALITY OF THE ROUTE . HOWEVER IT NEEDS FROZEN TURF NOT JUST RIME
Hi Pete nice one on the topo. Ground Up website has one also for summer. You must be local to know in regards to some of these routes ?
Anyway the top pitch of El Mancho is shown different to what I did.? So we either did a slight variation or your topo is wrong. Not sure really which is which.
Reading the Ogwen guide I cannot really make out if what we did , is where Manx Wall goes on its top pitch in summer.
Research to be done I think by me
The crag topo is just a copy of the one on Simon Panton's website, any inaccuracies are probably mine, but it's still better than the book! I figured it makes more sense to have a shot of the cliff in winter conditions instead of summer. I'm not claiming any kind of superior knowledge, that's why it would be nice if the people who do have the info would put it on the winter climbs website so we don't have to go by out of date books and inaccurate topos. For example I put a list of routes for clogwyn du, anyone can add or change the route descriptions or grades if they feel they have something better.
If anyone has some good crag shots I'll happily make up a photo topo for the website if they want to email them to me.
There's a nice blank webpage just waiting for photos and info on the Glyders mmd ;)
I agree a topo in winter of this crag is a great idea. Not saying you should know everything. The crux on manx wall in summer did this leave that narrow ledge and pull over the small overlap off that ledge, the overlap had a crack above it which was slightly overhung to start with. ?
I was taking another look at the topo I posted and the line I marked as El Mancho definitely coincides with what I saw on the crag the other day as the most obvious way to go for a new winter route i.e. large turfy ledges running across the face to a belay ledge and then up an obvious crack above to join manx wall at the crux.
Manx Wall as a mixed route looks pretty hard, have you done it also?
I'll get in there straight away Toby, will also be up in N Wales over Xmas and if conditions are good will also be looking for partners. Will track you down on UKC if that ok with you.
Went for a wander up round Idwal today and ended up following the Idwal Stream line. As expected the route most definately wasn't 'in', however there were one or two sections of decentish ice higher up which gave some decent entertainment. Turf was most definately not frozen and the snow very loose and mushy. As I was walking out the volume of water coming off the hill had definately increased from the mornings walk in. Predictably the weekend aint looking that hot, but as someone else said earlier, just enjoy getting out whatever.
what was the way you tried then on pillar chimney on wednesday, its slightly harder than the original line, if the turf was guaranteed to have been frozen, i woulda given it a bash, but getting half way along the traverse to find the turf isn't frozen woulda been pants filling.
Not great temp was between plus 3 and 6 at half way station all thurs eve/early fri morning
We thought the first pitch up the turfy ramp was 6 (not too much gear either - I remember pounding a couple of warthogs in and placing one wire.)
The second pitch is well protected, but technically harder (i.e. 7) and there is more of it.
I reckon the line of the top section on the new topo is slightly wrong. After the initial hard wall, you climb up the corner line and then hang a left at the break, stomach traversing out with the small roof above you. A few metres out you break through the roof via a thin crack. The position here is amazing: both axes and monos in the crack, and the world dropping away beneath your feet. Luckily the gear is good, so it's more exhilirating than terrifying.
I think for past winter ascents of Manx Wall people kept traversing and climbed the diagonal groove/corner on the left. I know this is how Dick Turnbull and Frank the decorator did it.
I also reckon that the initial line of the Winter Manx Wall on the new topo is a bit too far to the right. I've got some old slides of me on this section - if I can get my scanner sorted out again (gone digi these days) I'll post them on the wiki.
Here's a link to the original topo I did - would have been better with a winter garb pic, but I didn't have a digi shot.
The other thing worth mentioning is that CD Left Hand Gully gives a brilliant V 6 when the ice fall isn't formed properly (i.e. most of the time). Just climb up the groove 2-3m to the right and swing back left at the top. Loads of gear, but hard and sustained.
As we got back down in to the cwm the cloud broke occassionally and we got a good look at Clogwyn Du, Pete commented that the ice was a lot fatter than on Wednesday, it looked pretty good to me with decent ice on the slab that follows the chimney section but a little thinner at the start.
Also looking in good nick were both left and right branch of Clogwyn Gully with good ice at the Y and lower down, the bottom section looked thin.
Yesterday I went up Tower Slabs and found it thin, today the whole side of that slope has been stripped from last nights weather as its not as sheltered as higher in the Cwm, it was all black right up to the scree slopes, so no routes are in condition.
Over in Clogwyn Y Geifr 'The Trench' was a nice wide strip of snow as was 'Castle Gully'. From what we could see of Glyderau Y Garn Cwm most of the gullies looked pretty banked out.
Also anyone any idea of anywhere else that we could have a play one ?
I suspect they've changed somewhat now though.
Just posted a report and pics from today on the Welsh Winter Climbs Wiki: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
Clogwyn Left Hand is starting to look really good, and the ice on Pillar Chimney is really fattening out since wednesday. Check out the pics.
Of note for those looking for grade I/II stuff:
The whole back wall of cwm cneifion is well filled in and would be a good place to head to.
Hidden Gully is banked out, easy I/II and fun.
The gullies on Y Garn look good if you are prepared to walk up scree to get to them.
Haven't seen it but I imagine the trinity face would be well worth a look this weekend.
I think it's worth mentioning that even though the routes on Clogwyn Du are starting to look really good, if the turf aint frozen (like today) they shouldn't be climbed, no matter how much ice is up there.
Was up in Snowdon area yesterday. From Betwsy Coed looking North the Mountains looked very white. Once at the Penny Pas car park it was sleet/hailing and the cloud low. It did not look promising...
But once I got up to 550m it was a different story. The west side(Snowdon side) of Crib Goch from about 600m had a lot of snow. A bit wet yesterday but I was surprised to see how much there was. The higher one got the deeper the cover.
I did a possible new route on the west side of Crib Goch. A fantatic 40 m pitch with a fat 14 foot ice pillar start then a groove of snow and ice and some turf led up and over ice covered rock. A small consolation prize that was not expected. The route is high up but easily accessed from the walkers track with a traverse in to access.
PS on top of the Snowdon Horshoe the wind was baltic almost blown off feet. It is very wintery up there and down to around 650m. With a refreeze I think its only going to get better!
Any help would be awesome
Y Garn NE Ridge
It looks gorgeous up there today, nice photos (which I wish I hadn't looked at).;-)
Yes I almost went up but my mates have booked time off for next weekend and I can't afford two weekends on the trot at the moment.
It's killing me sitting in Peterborough knowing how things are up there...killing me I tell ya!
Hidden Gully yesterday.
Clogwyn Gully left/right branch
Whats the forecast conditions for next weekend. More white stuf or are we going to lose it?
Just looked at the 5 Day, looks like Rain for Tuesday with a low of 2 degrees. Hopefully there will be another freeze to get some good ice on the go. Looks like it will be getting warmer in the short term though.
A cold day with a high wind-chill effect over the tops with a combination of temperatures below freezing at most levels and a strong to gale force northwesterly winds. Also scattered snow showers.
Do you reckon Weds looks like a better day then? Had the Gale force effect up there the last two times I have been.
Outlook for Wednesday / Rhagolygon ar gyfer Dydd Mercher
A few snow showers during the morning, becoming dry with sunny spells. The strong northwesterly wind over the summits gradually easing down. Temperatures will be below freezing at most levels.
Outlook for Thursday / Rhagolygon ar gyfer Dydd Iau
It will stay dry and bright during the morning with light winds. Snow will begin to edge in from the west during the afternoon.
Cheers for that.
You've got my number, lets do it!
Will be good to meet up for a blast again.
Nice one pete, good to see the wiki being used. As always its needs someone keen to get these off the ground, maybe I should put some effort in ?
That's not Southport is it?
Anyways, yeah your input would make the winter wiki massively better for sure, I'ld be psyched to see some of the blanks getting filled in.
snow cover on routes was good and felt quite firm up high. saturday night low temp really made a difference and sunday morning the the snow was very hard.
unfortunately as day progressed the temp went up and snow softened again
saw plenty of good climbing going on both days plus fantastic weather
keep your eyes on the weather it may yet last
Went up Daear Ddu ridge, Siabod yesterday, 'just a bit of fun' snow about 1/2 way up, some ice building in the cracks, but did not require crampons. Nice covering of firm snow ontop disapearing about 1500m, Would suggest freeze an thaw would make it quite treacherous if it keeps cold. Dam ice covered grass always gets me.
Does anyone know if i'll get bollocked f
or sleeping in my car at the pen-y-pass car park?
Wednesday and thursday seem like the two best days
Hi the clouds lifted this afternoon here in N Wales. There is fresh new snow above 750 meters. In terms of conditions, It was very warm yesterday and I do not know if things warmed up a lot before the new snow came. So until we go up high I do not know what the conditions will be like mind you I will be surprised if they have reduced so there is nothing to do
However, a friend of mine was on the Black Ladders Sunday just gone and experienced really good neve and good turf and climbed a couple of grade 3,s so things could have hung in and with a new good freeze it could make things all good. I mean the things that were there before.
It is lot colder this afternoon than yesterday as the forecast suggests.
There are very very few ice routes around, you need to realise that the cycles have not been in place at low level and are only starting to happen up high. The other thing to realise is that you cannot keep viewing wales as snow/ice venues, if you do you will climb much. Get on those snowed up scrambles, as they are routes, your climbing and its a great day out.
if things go hard then there could be reasonable routes on Snowdaon as thats high alongside other high crags.
I am hoping to go out on WED, if I do I will try and offer some info on conditions.
As i arrived at the cwm just before sunrise a team was setting off up the Y branched grade 3/4 in the middle of Clogwyn Du and i met two more teams on their way up who hadn't opted for the alpine start.
Didn't have time to do anything as I have to be home now unfortunately.
A thaw up high as a previous poster had mentioned wouldn't be a bad thing because there are decent amounts of snow in the gullies to last if it consolidates and we get sub-summit freezing levels .
Whoever gets out, enjoy .
Banana gully in good shape today, nice and easy. Gullies to left of summit more icy,appeared to have been wind scoured a bit more.
Just about freezing on summits today, air felt damp.
Several parties in Cwm Cneifion, headtorch in the cwm at 0715!! Very keen.
Update for Wed.
Freeze level approx 800m. Below that, I would think there is no climbing anywhere really. However, above there you will find very good snow conditions and good neve, that is what we found in nameless cwm today
There is not much fresh snow around so its all very pleasent and nice.
Tower slabs and tower gully are in very good nick. Lefthand looks good high up and a good 5/6 on first pitch maybe, but there is ice in there. Anywhere in that cwn you could climb on the turf / rocks etc with the turf being frozen.
We went up to Gastell Y Gwynt and did a first ascent. This climbed the the r/h corner of the large slab that is visible as you walk up the cwm from Bochlwyd just down and left from the col. Between Crab Slab and Frosts Climb.
Pictures can be found on welsh winter wiki
This gives a short but v good grade III/3 pitch on turf and ice, a few wires to protect , slighty run out in middle section
The whole of the cwn high up is covered in frozen turf and neve all very nice
The other place that should be ok is Snowdon as this is higher and similar aspect ie no sun
Enjoy it Thursday folks, Friday looks bum but sat sun better and this all adds up to a possible good cycle.
I really fancy Left Hand or Central Trinity for sat or sun, if anyone has been up them recently I'd love to hear about it.
If I get something done at the weekend I'll update the wiki.
Didn't opt for the very early alpine start that Gerwyn and Matt did!!! those who's lights were visible when we were all in the carpark.
Climbed Y Branch Right hand. The turf was not frozen and the snow switched between loose/hollow sugar snow to bomber neve, I would grade the 1st pitch at the top end of 3 pushing 4 due to the sketchy conditions and big run outs.
Higher up things improved, after the cave stance, good neve in places and better frozen turf with good rock gear, good ice was found at the crux section, took a solid ice screw placement.
I ran the route out in two pitches, one pitch to the cave and then the last pitch pretty much to 20ft below the easy ground, equalised axes and a bulldog in rock hard neve at the last belay.
A great day out, a couple of parties on Pillar Chimney and a few on Hidden Gully, plus a team of 3 mates on the bold El Mancho.
Check out the Welsh Winter Climbs Wiki for reports.
Howdy, did you get a look at central or eastern gully when you up on Glyder Fach today?
SORRY if you have looked for pics on wiki, i can get them on for some reason
Thanks to all those posting conditions - helps keep the faith. Anyone know if the Arrans are holding any snow at all?
Climbed El Mancho today in Cwm Cneifion with Dave and Jamie. Stunningly good route, best british mixed I've ever had the pleasure of climbing. Details on channel wiki.
We saw you on El Mancho. Superb lead. It was very entertaining watching the last man in the grovely traverse section too; looked desperate trying to get into a standing position! Well done.
We arrived very late in the cwm due to coming straight from off a night shift (which by sods-law finished late at almost 8am) so we didn't start climbing till well after midday.
Great snow conditions in the cwm - but the ice was a different matter. Left Branch Y looked in nice condition from the base of the crag so we went in for a closer look. I started up the main pitch but bailed. The actual ice was nice and plastic but it was de-laminating with water running behind it and - to me anyway - felt dangerous. Shame because it did look a good route and I've wanted it for years...
Anyway we climbed Right Branch instead. A very big thankyou to the two guys who very kindly didn't start the route and instead let us race up before dark, as it was their second route of the day and we'd yet to do one.
Unfortunately though, Right Branch was marginal by then so we couldn't really race: Sugary and brittle ice and turf that was only just frozen made it fairy exciting. Topped-out in the failing light and had a fun descent down the Gribin Ridge in the dark.
A great day and well worth making the effort after a night shift for. I'm sure the other half-dozen teams had as much fun too.
I got day off, a week on friday. wanting to go up alone for some walking or low grade scrambling. got me' crampons and poles. my wife thought i was looking at crib goch, but am only looking for something to get me started in the snow.
any safe advice?
(apart from staying at home)
Looks like I am stuck with the family now till the new year so I only hope that this cycle keeps on turning so I can get out when I am back.
Thursday. Went up Parsley Fern Gully followed by Central Trinity Gully. Parsley was completely filled up with quite well consolidated snow. Any ice was well buried so it was very straightforward. Central Trinity was also quite well filled up but for some reason the snow was far more sugary. L Hand Trinity had a line of steps going up it. There is plenty of snow in the gullies above 750m so let's hope it survives.
Did you get a look at any of the other trinity face gullies - ladies?
> Did you get a look at any of the other trinity face gullies - ladies?
I traversed under Ladies. There is certainly plenty of snow in the gully but I couldn't honestly say how solid it was. Same for Cave Gully. There was a chap ahead of me who had a quick look at R Hand Trinity but decided that, due to the crumbly snow, it wasn't on solo. I am pretty sure that if I was with a roped partner, fun could have been had in any of the main lines.
Cheers for that. It's not sounding as great as I'd hoped for the w/end.
Sounds like a good thaw and refreeze will do the trick
A decent freeze again Wednesday night I presume?
I was out last night and there's still a lot of hard snow around, crampons would certainly be an advantage.
Seems a bit pessimistic. Snowforecast, Metcheck and MWIS are all forcasting FL falling to 600m-700m on Sat and a wee bit lower on Sun. Could be worth a look.
Temp here at 235m is +6c, there has been a bit of snow stripped back today.
It is warmer than the metoffice forecast.
Long range forecast is looking good for Sunday to Monday and warming up after that with the threat of a longer spell of warmer conditions.
Monday looks like a good day to go out :)
Welsh winter climbs site/wiki - hard to find - can you let people have the URL?
Woke up in my tent this morning after a shed load of rain and thought sod it so went crimbo shopping in Llandudno instead.
..."sweating like a rapist".. from yr post
V funny but watch out the PC police will get you!!
wandered into cwm cnefion this morning with low expectations, however the head wall of the cwm is holding lots of nice solid snow and I ambled up something about grade I ish - maybe broad gully?
heard two teams elsewhere in the cwm - could not say where as is was fairly misty.
Saw someone with skis strapped to their rucksack - now thats optimism!
Groups on Central Trinity but reports of snow getting thin in places. No ice anywhere.
Glogwyn Ddu left branch in very good nick today, a lot of ice in there, screws into hilt and v good ice, more than on thurs before thaw. Only one party in there all day ??? I bet they are glad they made a day out from the Peak
Tower gully and others were in good condition also, even though soft snow
WE managed two new routes up in the cwm. However, it was getting warm as we left 4.00 ish and snow getting soft
If it does get cold over the next few days then left hand should be ok. However, the forecast does not look good. It could well be the end for the time.
How's the turf doing up there, planning on trying Blenderhead tomorrow as long as it's frozen.
Thanks for the info, Yesterdy myself and friend climbed Craig LLoer Spur, we had quite a lot of fresh snow, we found the lower crack pitch quite hard. I also found the main slab pitch exciting to say the least, plaster with fresh snow, could'nt see the hand rail traverse do that was a suprise. From the notch its very exposed and commiting. I climbed it with axes no crampons my mate wore crampons, swings and roundabouts.
Not sure what grade you would put on it, not that it maters.
Great day out.
Any more suggestions?
Derek Kenyon (mountaineering club of Bury)
I always thought I carried too much unnecessary gear but your mate wins on that!!
Not that I didn't carry any but chose not to put them on, As I said it was 50/50 that they where more an hinderance than good.
Was the route snow covered when you did it? Had you done it before?
Certainly one to recommend, though I don't know about soloing it as a Gr 3 scramble.
P,s any pics?
Great route Eitherway.
Was it winter conditions when you did it?
If you send me you email address my mate took some good pics of the climb.
I could send them to you.
Thanks for you time
There was a pair climbing El Mancho we watched for a while and got some good photos, So if you were the 2 climbers drop me or Pete a line and we can mail you the pics :)
Well, I'd intended trying to beat the thaw and rush up there tomorrow for Left Hand Branch...
Don't think I'll bother now. Bit of luck really, as trying to re-arrange my home and work life around the climbing was proving to be a bit awkward.
Cheers! Saved me a wasted trip and loads of marital grief.
Tomorrow Im going to the Carneddau with skis! just for the hell of it,
If anyone else fancies a day out touring across the tops let me know..post on here or phone me.
Glad you enjoyed it. Doing the slab tranverse and then climbing it has some
good airy exsposure. God knows how you would sort a rescue out from falling
off the slab and its only a grade 3 scramble!! There is some good gear to
protect it but cranking on the axes to get on to the ledge above the slab
for the belay takes some courage to complete the move. I loved the line
and also did it without crampons. Dunno even if its a winter mixed climb
but had an audience watch us do it looking from Daffydd then walking
around to meet us.
I was in Cwm Cneifion a couple of weekends ago ticking the grade 1, 2 and
3's. Best line was Tower Slabs taking the line direct going over the rocks
steps, reminds me of Cresta on the Brenva Face, Ben Nevis. Now waiting to
go to Scotland at the end of the month.
Sounds fanstansic, posts the picys up when your back... never seen anyone ski on the Carneddau and no one will believe me either.
if you were to 2 on el mancho today ( monday ) let me know who you are and what you thought as you will be the 6th team to do it since first ascent and I am trying to get thoughts on grade etc as this is one of the best routes in the UK
Just as well, I'm either working or with the family 'till New Year now. I'd only get pissed off staring out of the window.
Yes, I hope so too. It's been the coldest start to a winter for 30 years apparently, so hopefully it bodes well for the next few months?
I managed to climb Western Gully on The Black Ladders in good condition in March '06, and I'm praying for a repeat this year, so fingers crossed.
according to metcheck warm and wet for a few days, then warm and sunny, Gogarth may be a better bet
Check out ground up website - news
Great pictures there, well done.
Most watercourses on the north side of the pass are thinly frozen down to the road, Craig Y Rhaeadr has thin ice top to bottom, Devils Kitchen ice is forming nicely, couldn't see cloggy through the scope because of the haze but I'd assume Black Cleft to be slowly forming unless the inversion is on the cliff.
If the long range model is correct it's going to be sub zero at low levels until the middle of next week, perhaps later.
But tread lightly and give it a chance to form eh.
anyone got any updates on ice - anywhere?
Thanks in advance!
On tuesday it was warm rock. There have been temp inversions meaning it was much warmer on the top, than in the pass. Grib Goch was totally dry the whole way. One guy was wearing shorts! I took my hat and gloves off when I got out of Cwm Glas and on to Crib y Ddsgyl.
I just met an old climbing partner in Betws y Coed who told me that climbers were swarming all over the ice in Llanberis and Ogwen ? It's very very cold so I'll take him at his word.
I met three guys rock climbing at the Cyrau. It's certainly dry enough for proper climbing !
Well, as I've been checking this thread all week I thought I'd stick my oar in; nice weather and not much ice, except for good skating at Pen-yr-wotsit-down-from-Pen-y-Pass. Water ice generally thin and thawing today in Idwal; Nameless Stream brittle and/or thawing but climbable; plenty of folk on Idwal Stream plus the odd team on Central Route. Slim pickings in the Nameless Cwm. Sharpened tools an asset. Best stay away and wait for things to improve, I'd say.
Just below freezing, some lines in (details below), others building.
Idwal Stream in ok conditions, lots of people on it (there were about 15 people already on when we started around 10.30 and there were still more people coming up behind; however it was wide enough not to feel too congested); we were soloing and leaders of roped teams didn't seem to be putting in many screws but the ice seemed thick enough in many placed for screws. A bit of water came out over the ice but mostly was bubbling away underneath so you could stay pretty dry. Ice has formed all the way to the top of the stream.
Central Route to the right of Idwal Stream looked in decent condition and a couple of teams were doing it but we didn't look at it closely.
The Screen has built up nicely, though ideally needs a bit more on the second pitch - the first pitch, including the steepest part of the route, was very nice though and there was enough ice for shorter screws and possibly longer ones as well in places.
The Ramp looked thinner but possibly doable, didn't look at closely though.
The Curtain is building, as is The Devil's Appendix, but neither are quite ready yet.
So assuming it stays cold there are at least three climbs in - Idwal Stream, Central Route and The Screen.
Great day out!
Can I be so bold as to ask others not to top rope/attempt the steeper ice falls when thay are still thin/partly formed?
> Can I be so bold as to ask others not to top rope/attempt the steeper ice falls when thay are still thin/partly formed?
Alternatively a thaw may arrive while everyone is fannying about waiting for perfection ;)
Idwal is getting good. Ice good on many routes. A friend of mine has done 6 routes in Idwal today. Hopefully he will report later
Report from Sunday:
Idwal Stream as you described it - screws solid with water underneath.
Central Route is in good condition, although I had to tie off the screws I placed. Add a grade (probably).
Ramp is fine.
Screen is formed and I reckon the Curtain might be OK.
The Devil's Appendix needs another 20 feet to hit the deck.
Here are a couple of pics from Sunday:
The Pass: Sergeant's Gully and Parsley Fern LH yesterday...thunky ice over flowing water low down giving way to very brittle water ice and well-frozen turf high up. Only one other team out! Craig-y-Rhaeadr thinly iced. N side streams forming.
Today very overcast then cloudy, but still sub-zero, and snow falling in the slate quarries this afternoon.
No it is not, this is mine user name not that chaps
anyone been out today, Monday??
I got up there at bout 3pm and things were still cold and well frozen, the path was sheet water ice and horrendous to run on, i'm now the proud owner of a munched right knee!
Hopw this helps.
should be a good day i hope.
may try to do a couple of smaller routes but i'll see when i get in there.
Frozen solid today ! Even Ice Skaters on Llyn Idwal !
any news on the biggies... devil's appendix & aber falls?
> Frozen solid today ! Even Ice Skaters on Llyn Idwal !>>
First time I've ever seen ice skaters on the little lake at Bod Petrual, Clocaenog Forest.
Loads of people walking on Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen ! Llyn Ogwen is solid people walk right across, mind you it`s only 4mtrs at it`s deepest. Did not have my camera with me today or I would have posted a photo of the skaters on Llyn Idwal !
A couple of pics.
Icefall at the Prince of Wales Quarry:
Sunset over Snowdon:
> Loads of people walking on Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen ! Llyn Ogwen is solid people walk right across, mind you it`s only 4mtrs at it`s deepest.
Actually, it's 11m at its deepest, off the rocks on the west shore.
I think you mean 11ft which is actually just over 3mtrs !
The figure is from Geraint Roberts excellent "The Lakes of Eryri". Worth buying if you see a copy.
Llyn Idwal might be 11mtrs, but Llyn Ogwen is only 11ft ! I`ll do a proper search later ok ! If anybode else can confirm what TC says is correct please feel free to reply and prove me wrong :)
went to cwm silyn today. it's all frozen but not a great volume of ice. unfortunately theres just no snowpack to feed anything. we just managed to climb widow of the web but it was pretty thin. there looked to be a reasonable amount of ice in the amphitheater gully area, and bed rock gully and mask of death had ice but didn't get close enough to see how much. that sums up the state of cwm silyn at the moment. hope this helps.
aside from the obviously important issue of depth of the cwm...
what condition is yr wdffa / tryfan in???
Depth of of the Cwm !!!! Do you really mean depth of the Cwm ?
What condition is yr WDFFA !!!!!!!!!!
ps its defo 9.9999999999999999999999 ft actually
Thinking of going Cwm Cneifion tomorrow, anyone got the latest on the conditions?
thanks for the help.
does anyone know where the snowline starts?
How high up before you get good consistency?
is most of the rest ice?
> Depth of of the Cwm !!!! Do you really mean depth of the Cwm ?
> What condition is yr WDFFA !!!!!!!!!!
Haha, calm down mills :)
Duane its Yr Wyddfa.
Hi Dave, I,m planning on going to Wales ( Ogwen area ) tomorrow 08/01, don,t suppose you are looking for someone to climb with????
If you want to dicuss call me on 07779 647 977.
Hi Mike, would love to say yes but I'm only a novice at winter climbing and my mate is taking me tomorrow to show me the ropes.
If I take to it OK and the conditions stay for a bit then I may be up for it another day, will keep you posted.
Might see you up there if your around.
I'm off to north wales this weekend coming and after a taste of winter climbing on ben nevis last week I'd love to have a go in north wales as it would be a shame to be there when everything is in condition and not be able to climb anything.
Unfortunately I've nobody to climb with and not the skill or experience to start leading/soloing stuff. Would anyone here be looking at climbing something reasonably easy and be willing to have me join hem for a route? I've got my own axes, crampons, boots, personal gear, rock gear, but no dry treated ropes or ice gear.
It's a long shot i know but worth a punt i thought.
Went up after soloing Idwal stream yest, two fellas on Clogwyn Du but it seemed more like rock climbing with tools. Couldn't see much in the way of ice in the Y branch for example. Plenty of easy streams in though.
As for Idwal, pretty good. Thawing today but we got in early and climbed Devils Cellar and the Left hand column (direct?) line up The Screen. Did end up with an armpit full of water for my ambition though.
Glad to see people making the most of it :)
Those routes on Glogwyn Ddu are modern mixed routes and thats another major aspect of N Wales winter climbing. N Wales is not all about ice.
sounds like idwal's warming up - anyone know if the pass is likely to be better this coming w/e?
I could be up for something. You have mail.
If you don't go you won't know.
Heading over on Friday evening, any news on conditions gratefully received. Cheers.
As Pete mentions, the long range forecast is for much milder and windier weather over the weekend and warmer well in to the next couple of weeks, but hey, things do change. Stay high for the best chances.
Get it while it lasts folks!
Just seen local North Wales forecast. They are saying frost overnight -2/-4 at sea level in North Wales and still cold on saturday morning / afternoon
Jims advice was spot on.
been out in Idwal cwm today, Great conditions early on, but routes were getting very wet very quickly as the day has progressed.
We climbed the screen early on in good nic, and the ramp which was wet and thin near the top.
Teams on all the usual suspects today, and the curtain even had at least 1 ascent with a great lead!!
Not seen tomorrows forecast so not sure whats gonna happen, but again id be early!
Its very grim here in N Wales, very wet and very windy and very warm.
now then the rivers will be up !
Rapid rise in temperatures and a return to warm,wet and windy shit !
Someone tell me it will all be back to winter wonderland in two weeks time? (Am planning a trip to the lakes or snowdonia the weekend after next...)
Yes we where also out early on Saturday in Idwall, set off 7.15am and still behind 6 lads on Central route, with 3 teams behind us.
Well worth doing though, nearer 4 I thought. We put in a short pitch higher up which was worth doing which lead to a dead end ab off. Do you know whether the top pitch of Grecian gets fully formed or do lads dry tool to top corner? it look a great pitch. No doubt most of the Ice will have gone by now.
Need full winter snow as well as ice to be in full form condition...
Another one to add to the list, at this rate I be an old man before I get around to them all. Still I'll enjoy trying.
P.s Did Lloer Spur before Christmas in Snowy conditions,great route with some bold climbing, well worth the effort.
It's looking a lot warmer than last week!
Was hoping to do Idwal stream then maybe something else.
you'l be lucky!
Rain, rain, rain and some high winds. No snow, no ice, great for kayak/open boaters at the moment.
on Sat me and two mate were blown left right up and down ..not seen anything like that sort of strength in north wales before. My legs are still sore from the walk out.
Got hail stone shower here at the moment, supposed to be a frost tonight/tomorrow am then back to wet and warm.
Strange weather. Woke up to white fields and icy lanes. A drive over the top reveals that the snow has returned to the Snowdonia range with the snow line looking like 2500' ish.
Feels colder than it has for some days now. Not sure what's going on out there ?
All very warm and not snow.
Should be a good week for indoor walls.
Wind strong enough to blow people off the crags, or indeed onto their face and down the road. Rained several inches this afternoon alone, the weather is dismal(unless you're a paddler too).
reading this topic I wondered if I could join to any of you for a weekend ice climbing ?
i live in southampton, it takes a reasonable 2.5 hours train trip up to north wales. At the moment I have no buddy to climb with (I moved recently)but I really keen on starting to discover the winter climbing opportunities in the UK (while I still can this year).
I've got 1 week swiss glacier experience, 1 week in the Slovakian tatra and im going for 1 week ice climbing to Italy in 2 weeks. Despite this, im quite a novice in winter climbing.
from mon-fri I'm stuck in an office and I really need to get out and meet like-minded people otherwise im gonna go insane here :/
> Mark H
Should have taken that up myself ....
> Should have taken that up myself ....
I wish I had gone to the bookies and put money down on my forecast as right at this moment one hell of a snow storm has kicked off!!! heavy wet snow sticking almost instantly, temps of 1c at 235m.
I ran from Capel to Nant via a traverse of the Glyders yesterday afternoon, gusty but not too bad, not much snow, but was chatting to a few guys who had done a fair old day of about 3-4 routes including Idwal slabs and Cneifon arete, and they said they'd done a bit of a down climb of a winter route in the continuation.
Icey above about 750m.
Snow fell last night and the snow level in Nant Peris was about 700m when I left for work.
Looking out my window right now and it's snowing big flakes. It doesn't feel very cold though. Expect it will turn to sleet soon ?
Heading to Ffynnon Lluwgy:
Heading onto Pen yr Helgi Du:
Snowdon from Capel:
Check out wwwbaggy.blogspot for the latest info & suggestions; so long as its stays cold over the next few nights there will stil be things to do at the weekend.
The webcams this morning look very unpromising, last night's rain must have been pretty extensive?
Anybody take a gander today?
That's what I was wondering. The lakes has has a respectable dump, what about snowdonia?
to partially answer my own question, headed into cwm cnefion this morning, snow starting from about the foot of the Gribin ridge, fairly good coverage at the cwm lip and improving the higher you climbed. but not a great depth except in drifts. some avalanche debris around the foot of tower gully. followed a team up hidden gully and that was in ok condition, a bit powdery in places. saw a team on clogwyn ddu. suspect low chance of frozen turf. good fun on the top of the glyderau. descended by the scree line right of bristly ridge, quite powdery snow here with some trainer clad folk looking very insecure.
snow line up a bit from the morning, looked to be cover worth investigating in cwm ffynon lloer etc but did not go and have a look.
dunno, there are however 5 empty wine bottles downstairs and we sampled the sloe gin.
Spent first rate day on S. yesterday
Cloud at 800m, snow conditions super with 8 to 10 cms from 880m upwards , some drifting but NO wind and the conditions allowed sun to break thro occasionally.
Most walkers on S , so other parts of the massif were faisrly quite.
Great day out .
Sorry, that can be ignored! I've just been for a wander and there's plenty of snow left on Llewelyn, Dafydd and the Black Ladders. Only had my film SLR with me though, so no photos sorry.
Upto about 1-1.5 metres deep in places!
Strong winds, and as we were leaving looked like clouds coming in from the Nantfrancon, so could bring further snow? or maybe just rain!?
Some action on Crib Goch today, have a look in my gallery for a shot of Baggy and Adam on Reade's Route.
Crib Goch felt like the living end in high winds.
We did Eastern Gully (Black Ladders) on Saturday, all very snowy and white, but conditions a bit rubbish really. First icefall pitch didn't exist so traversed in. Snow soft throughout, wet low down. What little ice there was, was mostly brittle. Ground unfrozen. Took left branch at the top as white branch was full of cruddy snow. Some good neve for the last 20m or so. Great fun!
Loads more fresh snow Saturday night, unfortunately by the time the weather cleared on Sunday afternoon we'd already made the decision to go to the wall and so missed what would have been a nice day for a walk.
Should have come to Tremadog - bright and sunny from about 11.00 onwards on Sunday.
Still raining Llanberis area when we got to the Beacon at 11.30. When we left just after 2, the mountains looked stunning, would have been a great day for a walk or even maybe a ski
it was just bloody cold with the wind! brrrr
north of y garn was looking good.
the weather cleared by about 11.30 yesterday - lucky, as we'd just arrived to wander up Tryfan. A lot of snow up there - lovely stuff! We bumslid, sorry, glissaded most of the way back down.
Enough to make it worthwhile me binning work on Wednesday for whatever is left?
it really was amazing up there yesterday - beautiful weather. Blue skies, clear out to the coast...
I was running an exercise in North-East Wales, whilst looking wistfully to the West. Comments like that are not helpful :-)
we kept on looking at snowdon waiting for it to clear - finally did at about half 2/3 ish was a great sight to see
oo no - we had two or three gusts blowing spindrift around, and that was it - it was pretty balmy on top.
barely any wind, blue skies, lots of snow, not many people around - it was hell, I tell you :-)
Probably walking, doubt i can rustle up a partner for then anyway. Possibly something easy and rocky if scrambling. Any updates appreciated!
still - it really didn't feel like wales at all.. (apart from sat night)
Keep an eye on the met office forecast, they've currently got a weather advisory out for a possible 30mm rain in Wales on Wednesday.
Bugger. Damn you once again Metcheck!
Will literally keep a weather-eye on it then...
Agree twas a cracking day Sunday, was messing around Banana Gully Y Garn, lots of luverly snow, strong gusts and spindrift from crest off NE ridge. Although a bit soft gullies chocked full of snow inbetween Y Garn and Foel Goch, cornices well formed but showing evidence of sagging with fracture lines from above. If they are still there Mon/Tues, Beware.
As usual Y Garn summit plateau was iced up would not recommend without crampons, depending on daily conditions.
The next few days until thurs/fri are going to be warmer and wetter than lately, the snow will diminish but shouldn't disappear entirely, and the good news is there's a large continental high bringing a mass of cold air from the east forecast to hit wales around fri/sat and remaining in place all next week. All snow still left on the hills by this friday is going to be bomber neve by the weekend.
Yep - brilliant day - blue skies, no wind, alpine like.
Did routes in nameless cwm - snow from 600m, with breakable crust. climbale neve from 800m. did tower gully, another guy came up the face to the left of this. hidden gully was in too ( but steep top out for soling!)
Curved gully was also ascended and the broken ground on the side of senior ridge grade 1-2.
Also went over to llyn bochlwyd - where there was less snow and not as firm. Hard work up col gully. Although the central gully ( miain gully i think) looked ok if a little lean.
Some snwo melt during the day (especially on sunny aspects eg Y garn) but still loads around.
Pen ole wyn and carneddau had alot of snow too. ( not visited)
No sign of the threaten weather when I left at 4.30pm. so if you have a great aunt with a dicky heart aka the guide book... get out there....
for general mountaineering it is fantastic!
The guy was lucky and this should remind us all that where ever the right conditions exist a slope can avalanche, even in Wales.
'Even in Wales' A stark reminder after Glencoe on Saturday. Chap i met on Sunday also had a look at the underside of the cornice on Bananna and gave it a wide berth, well soft. Grade 1 Winter but owing to it's presentation and the prevailing westerlys It always seems to be one of the quickest cornices to build after a dump of snow.
Just back from a walk over Siabod - quite a lot of rock hard neve even on open exposed slopes on the Plas y Brenin side, with the path filled in right down to the first fence and style- we could look across at the Trinity Face on Snowdon and I reckon that up to this evening at least, conditions on Trinity Face would be very good. Not seen a forcast for the next couple of days mind, but still looks like a lot of good hard consolidated neve around.
Tempted for a 3000ers run on Sunday, looking a cracking day for it.
Just watching BBC forcast now - its aint gonna get significasnly warmer 2moro so I reckon Trinity Face should stay cold and in nick - Damn - Im working at the climbing wall for 2 days :o(
I reckon routes would deffo go on Triniuty Face 2moro so good luck
Must catch up soon - not seen you for a while - a few of us been going to a pub quiz in beris on a Sun eve - surreal but fun ;o)
Ive started running again(very gently) after a couple of years off with bad back - really enjoying the (shortish) runs so far and no injuries except my dropped arch - definately noticing the fitness on normal hill days - all good ;o)
Chewwie sends big licks
Good on getting the running going, we've had a cracking winter so far really, can't complain, had far far worse.
Hows Chewie going? Ours have been living all over the show due to house renovations and weren't happy at all, now back in nant peris and they are settling down again.
Also what was Crib y Ddysgyl like?
Stunning night last night.
Oh dear, I'm guessing the forecast rain is going to wipe out anything that is up there?
we were up on trinity face today,did central. snow was thin out of the gullies. turf wasnt frozen and temps were fairly warm all day.
Anybody back from t'hills with a report yet?
Plenty of sugary snow in the Cwm Cneifion, and even some water ice left on the headwall, but it was too warm today and the buttresses were black. The gullies there might be OK it gets cold enough and the turf freezes tonight. Easy gully has a cornice over it and there have been avalanches or cornice collapses in the cwm - I've never seen that in Wales before.
The entire mountain is an ice-rink though, don't go near without axes and crampons. MR were stopping people descending the top of the Llanberis Track if they had no gear. The Ranger Path was much safer.
There were also a few accidents by Glaslyn. Apparently someone was practising arrests and broke a leg, and some girl fell whilst coming down a slope. The Sea King went over so I presume it picked them up.
Don't suppose you saw if the Trinity gullies were holding much snow or cornices?
Cheers, sounds like it will last a while with the current forecast.
Photo of Cwm Glas taken yesterday:
And one of the Llanberis Path:
Went up Central Trinity today. Got up really early and started the climb at 8.30am. Very good neve at that time, snow a little sparse low down on the approach but plenty in the gully itself. Turning sugary on top as we descended out at 11-12pm but should last if it stays cold in the next few days. Other parties on Right Hand and Great Gully, would be interested to hear what these were like as they looked thin in places as did Ladies/Cave gullies. Very windy on top and had to crawl the last 50ft.
Great Gully is in superb condition, the chockstones are all bare (as usual) but fun. Didn't come across any "sugary snow". Looks like we could be on for a good week ahead.
They say not to go up there atm, avalances etc
Anyone on any advice of best routes to go for with the current conditions?
Wanting something grade II/III.
Was originally thinking of Trinity but not sure now, after hearing the talk of avalanche danger!
Any comments/advice appreciated.
Im heading up 2moro for a look around - last week I encountered rock hard neve and with all this fresh stuff being blown around, Im sure that there will be loaded slab on a hard slidey neve base - so caution I think.
Ill probably be in Betws sometime in afternoon if you fancy meeting up for a coffee - be good to put a face to the name
I'm free on Wednesday and would love to go out for a walk on Snowdon, but am on my own ... everyone else at work, poor sods!!! I'm experienced in winter walking and have all the necessary kit (which I can also use). Can anyone recommend a route? Pyg and Llanberis easiest access for me, but given all the warnings and potential avalanche risk, any suggestions gratefully received. (Zigzags?)
I wouldn't normally think twice about going out on my own in snowy conditions, but this week definitely seems to be one warranting caution.
Cheers David, might take you up on that offer depending what we get up to (and also what time we need to get home).
On Snowdon the Rangers the safest option, the Pyg has issues at the zig zags and llanberis the section above clogwyn station can be dangerous.
Can anyone post who has been up Pyg or miners since Saturday - pics even better. Might have to give those tracks a miss given what people are saying??
its very dangerous at the mo ! 2 brothers were killed at the weekend ... these mountains look beautifull in the snow but dangerous if your not competent enough ! be carefull.
There was a MRT bloke on the news yesterday advising people to keep off Snowdon unless they are experienced...
Ice axes and crampons a necessity...
...but advised experienced climbers to consider whether to climb Snowdon in the current conditions.
"I would strongly recommend that people without a lot of experience and the right equipment don't venture on to the mountain.
"If people are at all unsure they should stay away. More heavy snow is forecast on the mountain."
Thanks for the warnings: have equipment and experience, but sounds like those who involved in the tragedy were well prepared too, so duly noted.
On the other hand we all take calculated risks, so I would still appreciate any first hand reports on where to go or avoid given correct equipment, experience and a knowledge of the risks.
agreed. me too.
Ogwen roadside - my car registered between 0 to -2C. A few icicles at roadside and Llyn Ogwen starting to freeze over.
The tops look like the Cairngorms with clouds of spindrift blowing around.
Snow appeares plentiful but soft and unconsolidated.
The Appendix and the Screen are forming (observed from road) couldnt see Idwal Stream.
Butresses on Tryfan appear to be riming up.
With all the soft snow blowing around I would suggest avoiding the gullies at the moment andf stick to ridges or high up mixed routes.
Think Im gonna have a shot at the Horseshoe 2moro if forcast is OK
I was doing odd jobs mainly - managed an hours sledding at Betws, but at least Chewwie pulls the sled back up hill - which is nice :o)
You around 2moro - Im bunking off work
(I know you can't see the future, but all predictions welcome!)
Did Right Hand Trinity on Snowdon today in filthy weather.......
-7c on the summit.
Lots of new powder snow on the mountain and some deep drifts of up to 30cm.
Was the snow pack OK?
The guidebook mentions Trinity as being prone to avalanche!
Heading over tomorrow and not sure whether to go Trinity (1st time) or otherwise head over to Idwal.
I'd say in general on the face there was 2-3 inch of new power covering the neve (which there is lots of above about 850m), with the odd deeper drift.
I was happy climbing it, that said Right Hand is much less prone to avalanche than Central as it is steeper and doesn't have the summit snow bowl above it. I think it would need an almighty dump to get caught out in RH.
Thanks for the info.
For the next 24 hours I wouldn't be going near anything that's both north facing and exposed to snow slopes either above or below. So Trinity Face, Black Ladders, back wall of Cwm Cneifion (corner gully - hidden gully) and anywhere else that fits the description.
Plenty of other stuff in condition anyway.
We didn't get that much, but strange how it's fallen quite deep in some areas. Driving back home tonight it was quite deep at the Beran garage.
Cheers for the Black Ladders update. I was thinking of heading there sunday. How do you rate my chances?
We were on the stream today, Can't believe it was so quiet on there.
Walked on to the summit of Y Garn after - the gullys on there looked OK - banana looked very inviting!
Great weather today - Blue sky's!
Anyone heading out there with the current conditions should be in for a good day!
We were on the screen or what ever its called today, was a bit sketcky, lots of melting and hollow bits, pro was a bit suspect. Friend of ours went swimming in the stream because the ice was a little thin. Needs to re-freeze me thinks, hopfuly tonights front will do the job. will be up there early tomoz to see.
I'd agree with you there - we climbed the screen late afternoon and it felt a wee bit 'interesting' particularly top of fall past the chandeliers!
South Gully apparently in great nick
Thinking of doing idwal stream on sat if u do it friday can u let me know what its like
Did part of the horseshoe today , people climbing gullies in Cwm Glas and on Trinity Face reported them to be in good nick.
Anyone got a look at Face Route in Cyrn Las? How's the nick?
Stiff for the grade then? Mmh. Do you know if the difficulties are escapable? Only done III before.
Cwm Glas: Parsley Fern RH is a classic - mostly Grade I with a II ice pitch and a steep(ish) exit. Has the added advantage of the LH branch which has more steep ice and goes at II/III, so you can chose where to play. Pitches are reasonable to protect, depending on conditions.
Tops out just below the summit of Craig Y Ddysgl and there is an easy way down by following the path that takes the obvious ridge above Cwm Glas.
Fantail gully to the left of Clog Y Person is good too - lots of short ice pitches with easier sections in between, whole lot goes at II/III.
On the way up you can do Sargeants if it's in, I think that's II or III from memory - water ice but in "steps".
Sure there are plenty more but that's the area I'm familiar with.
Parsley Fern Gully is good for ice, and is in good nick now I believe. Many people solo it, but there are sections you can/should pitch if you're just starting out.
We did hourglass gully a couple of weeks ago, which is about grade I/II, but you can make it more difficult. It was quite quite soft, but should be better now. The ice pitch on the right at the start might even be formed. However, as with all gullies BEWARE OF AVALANCE! Check conditions before, use rutschblock technique to check the slab, be aware of teams above you, and natural points of cover, etc. And of course if in ANY doubt at all BACK OFF.
Seems odd to be talking about avalanche in Wales, but there you go.
Stream was in good nick when we were on it.
Showed some signs of thawing but I think it is forecast for a freeze tonight which should help you out.
Have a good day tomorrow!
Aye, it's been on the hitlist for a while. Some bloke over on Baggy's blog who climbed it the other night made it sound like breeze. Soft IV he said.
I've been into the Gwydyr Forest today and a lot of the little roads there were a bit touch and go, but gritted in parts. The A5 is fine.
I would expect the Pass to be fine, but not sure about the Dinorwic roads. Iain might have a better idea if he pops online at some point.
That'd be me then! It was easier than 3 years ago. I.e. slighty less steep, lovely plastic pick placements & weird sugary snow under a meringue like crust which provided good footholds (less need to front point)but which didn't compromise the solidity of the rest of the climb. Plenty of good ice screw placements, stalagtites & rock gear too. Check the Welsh winter wiki site for an up to date description.
Can't say the same for the approach up the hill which was horrendous!
P.S. Hi Si!
Cheers for that - saw your reply on Baggy's blog as well, much appreciated.
Where's the best place to park for Parsley Fern Gully?
How are the wind slabs building up? Looks like it's been easterly winds most of the week now swinging round to northerly - so depositions on western and southern aspects?
Anyone care to comment?
There should be a photo of the face on my profile (once it's approved) for anyone who's interested, just bear in mind that things are changing rapidly and things could be very different today.
Webcams look like there's not huge amounts of snow but...
Does anyone have any idea if there is likely to be much of a cornice/run out at the top?
Hoping to have a look at some ice around idwal on Sunday - anyone had a look today?
Never seen a cornice at the top of parsley fern, the slope peters out quite gradually from what i remember
Were you doing a lot of wading?
Anybody know whether Torpantau Waterfall is shaping up?
> Were you doing a lot of wading?
The walk in was fine, the PYG track was well swept by the wind. It was possible to pick a line up the gully on neve avoiding most of the fresh snow. I wandered into a few drifts on the ridge back to the top of the zig-zags and the walk out was only slightly snowier than the walk in. The falling snow was all been blown away somewhere, where it landed I'm not to sure ;)
> Never seen a cornice at the top of parsley fern, the slope peters out quite gradually from what i remember
Ah, good :)
avalanche? have a swisstick instead ...
If PYG track's been blown clear western aspects should be OK
Couldn't comment on southern aspects eg Trinity Face
May i ask - If blown clear? How clear? Will I need crampons and axe to get up (taking them anyway - just forewarned is forearmed) and will my collie get up PYG too or are we safer going llanberis path?
I'll get the thought police on me for saying this but if you don't fancy forking out for full crampons Grivel Spiders (about £20) are good as long as you stick to good paths eg Miners or PYG
Wind on the Lllanberis side will be 'orrible tomorrow and that side of the mountain is dangerous around Clogwyn without crampons and perhaps even with them tomorrow if it's very windy.
I'm not against dogs but they do cause problems if they're allowed to run around on the zig zags in snow/ice...mainly because of all the people without crampons...
Broad Gulley was close to perfect Wednesday. Some windblown slab but very small patches. Disclaimer: May have changed since
> May i ask - If blown clear? How clear? Will I need crampons and axe to get up (taking them anyway - just forewarned is forearmed) and will my collie get up PYG too or are we safer going llanberis path?
From what I saw on Thursday I wouldn't go without crampons. It's so much quicker and safer when you can walk on anything instead of hopping around dodging the ice. We used them from a point about 1km before the bottom of the zigs and saved an awful lot of time. It's to much stress and faff to go without IMO
a good summary here - http://www.avalanche-center.org/Education/topics/wind3.php
with 30-40mph north/northwesterlies forecast for tomorrow - http://www.mwis.org.uk/mountain/SD.PDF
south or south east facing slopes will be in the lee of the wind/liable to accumulate large amounts of windslab i.e. slopes above the pyg track
anyone know what the appendix is like at the moment?
Not there apparently.
Different forecast on http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/HOBBIES/mountain_forecast.asp?LocationID=1154 but BBC weather also showing high winds.
I think everyone should assess those slopes if they go up tomorrow.
Have you seen that on a forecast for tonight?...either way there could be a build up
p.s. for the first time in a long time we saw someone turn back because of conditions. Shame more people didn't have the same level of common sense as them.
We were at Idwal on wednesday and it wasn't formed.
Thinking of Banana Gully on Y Garn tomorrow, snow looked good on Wednesday, anyone got the latest conditions?
We went up cyfwrys arette. There was some good ice to the left of one pitch gully.(as you look at it!) Too hard for us, though could be someone's cup of tea.
Not able to get out over the weekend, but I'm sure there will be lots of fun had by many.
Someone should go check this out:
Kiss of the Spider Woman Grade V+ Cwm Silyn
The obvious ice smear down a faint groove in the rock buttress 30m down and R of Widow of the Web.
1. 3. Mixed groove R of first pitch of Widow of the Web followed by easy rambling to base of smear.
2. 6. Enter the groove delicately and soar upward. Serious.
3. Ramble to the summit.
F.A. Owain Jones, Johnny Garside 06/01/97 ‘A genuinely brilliant pitch as good as anything in the area.’
Rumour has it that Big Tim Neal has done The Appendix today... but he does have a very long reach!
> Rumour has it that Big Tim Neal... The Appendix today...
solo i think not someone must have shared the route ...
ill check out the routes in Bodlyn.
as for OJ's route .. there are the classics to be done....
Great Gully (Craig Yr Ysfa) yesterday was full of unconsolidated powder the ice was a bit variable and thin. Can't really recomend it in the current conditions. Very atmospheric and certainly has a big route feel though! Photo of it in current conditions uploaded to my gallery.
Great Gully 6/2/09
Conditions still very good. Did Idwal Stream today and it was still frozen all the way up. There is the odd hole showing the water and some hollow ice but generally fine. The Curtain, The Screen, South Gully all in condition. More snow than on Friday but not a problem.
So there's fresh unstable snow, wind transported snow, precipitation, a sliding surface and the instability seemed to be across a range of aspects.
We were planning to do Right Hand Trinity in the morning, did you see what it was like?
The snow is unconsolidated. Ice is ok, but needs care on the easier routes.
Flurries throughout the morning, and a lowering cloud base. Wasn't particularly cold.
Snowdon from Moel Siabod on Saturday:
Nant Gwynant from Carnedd y Cribau (Saturday):
Deep snow (Sunday):
Aber Falls, Llwytmor and Bera Mawr (Sunday):
an chance you could idnetfy the routes on there as a topo as its such a a good clear picture.
Someone did this a few years ago but it got lost when they left their uni and their account went !
Thats a great photo, a nice high resolution topo would be smashing :)
cheers - a few of these could provide excellent supplements to
guidebooks and i might even be able to find some routes :-)
A South Gully *** IV
B Central Route * III
C Grecian 2000 IV
D Chicane Gully * III
E Devil's Pipes * V
F The Ramp ** III/II
G The Screen ** III/IV
H The Curtain
I Devil's Pasture III
J Coldhouse Crack * III
DK The Devil's Kitchen *** IV
K Devil's Staircase ** IV/V
L The Devil's Appendix *** VI
M Hanging Garden Gully * IV
N The Sting * IV/V
O The Deliv's Cellar ** IV
P The Goat's Path I
Disclaimer - I make no claim these lines are accurate (not so good drawing with a mouse), nor for the grades. Use this topo at your own risk.
Dunno whether the mods will let the topo into my gallery, so have put it on flickr
If conditions time interest permit, I could possibly try and do some more - perhaps on a request basis?
Are you sure about the line of The Sting? I always thought it was the wider steeper line out of the cave on the right. The line marked is more of an ice groove, we did it a few years ago when we realised it wasn't in the book, can't really see why it was overlooked though. Sting LH maybe?
Sorry my post sounded like a criticsm, your topo is spot on and much better than the current guide. It's just my mate and I were wary of claiming a first ascent as the line is so obvious and missing in the guide book. It's also a bit easier than The Sting.
im sure the curtain goes at a IV.
and the screen is a IV i think!
No hump taken ;) and thanks for +ve
This is a great topo
Regards N it is in the wrong place, the Sting is the one to the right. This line as shown has been climbed numerous times before and has no name. I propose we call in Sting ray and will get that name on the wiki and in the new routes,
thanks again - this is really useful with the current guide.
I also think this medium (UKC) offers supplements to guidebook
topos and photos and is very very useful.
Have you put it in the 'Crag Shots' section ?
Anyone got any for Hart Crag as I always get lost up there :-)
It was getting late in the day - maybe 5pm - when the shot was taken. Hope you made it up and/or down OK.
I just checked the weather report we deffo gonna get wet!!
Got back at 11pm on Tuesday night.
Conditions are very good. Misty, hazy sun at times but generally cloudy, very occasional snow shower. Deep snow in parts in walk-in's and up's. Windy and cold on tops and exposed areas. Gaiters and axe a must. Took crampons but did not use.
Well worth it - just about as picturesque as you'll ever find Snowdonia! Stunning!
Welsh Post lead with headline on Monday "stay off killer mountain". Not in my opinion. I think perfectly safe if common sense and proper kit applied in large measures. Enjoy.
Hey. I climbed in Idwal on Monday. Wanted to do the Screen, but everything seemed to be dripping, and some blokes we met warned us that for the first pitch the belayer would have to stand in the impact zone of some rather major icicles high up. They had seen something come down already. We also saw the Devils Appendix spewing some ice - get's your attention.
Climbed the Ramp instead, and the large icicle at the first belay didn't seem particularly stuck to the rock on it's top side.
Then climbed the Devils Pasture, which was really good fun. Had to start on the right 5 meters up, and traverse left with difficulty onto the route proper. This initial slab section (which is the start of the adjacent route) was rapidly giving up the ghost, but the rest of the route was fine.
We were back out again nearby on Tuesday, and it did seem colder, but we only went past the ice in Idwal once it had gone dark (epic) so can't comment on the quality.
BTW, anyone done Left Hand Branch in Clogwyn Ddu lately? We thought the main ice pitch was very thin, and ended up climbing the chimney direct and belaying half way, before commiting to the face. I thought this was one of the most reliable routes in the area?
How are the classic gully lines looking like the Trinitys, Hidden Gully, Parsley Fern, and Sargeants. Thinking of heading up early on Friday morning if these routes are going to give some good sport on some nice neve.
fast,could come good again if freeze level drops,sargeants not
looking good,cheers simon
Thanks Simon. Forecast not looking good for a freeze overnight tonight so probably going to give it a miss.
For info - other Snowdon webcams can be found by Googling 'Electric Mountain webcam'
Quite a bit of ice still (the screen etc still fine) and cwm cneifion looked very white. Hard packed snow ice down to where the path crosses the stream.
Maybe one last chance to cram something in before this? - http://mwis.org.uk/mountain/SD.PDF
What's Tryfan looking like at the moment? Any routes at I or II particularly good?
Cadair & the Rhinogs
Can anyone confirm that routes like 'The Ramp' and 'The Screen' are still in condition for a last dash climb, Friday or Saturday?
Not on the hill today, am about 30 miles east on the Welsh side of Chester and it's much much warmer than recently, in fact it's turned into a beautiful, spring day ...
Has there been any major dumps on the tops in the last few days?
I was there on Tuesday. They were both OK then, but it was thawing in the afternoon. However, we have had a couple of hard frosts since then, so they may be OK.
Did you get a look at what the gully conditions were like in the Black Ladders on Thu. Particularly interested in the grade 111-1V ones.
Forget ice climbing in Snowdonia- it's falling down in the rapid thaw !
I've got to go in a few minutes
Still snow around but it has all the consistency of a Slush Puppy !
Bloody misty this afternoon too.
Cascade & Central Icefall all collapsed & water streaming under anything thats left. Descended Central Trinity this afternoon and don't think even that last will last this rapid thaw. Be very sceptical of the forecast temp's!
Thanks to all of you guys for the tip off about the thaw. It sounds like I have saved myself a drive all the way up from Aylesbury and a rather frustrating w/e. Will sit tight and keep fingers crossed for March!!
Now there's an optimist! :O)
i think we had a white march in snowdonia a coupla years ago...so you never know
Yes more of the white stuff is a definite possibility here in wales in march. Not sure that it will return to the incredible conditions seen earlier this month though!!......
Come on weather!!! BE COLD!!! VERY COLD!!!
Last easter 2008 i climbed Glogwyn Ddu left hand, El Mancho, Jubilee Climb and a new route all of the Easter Bank Holiday all in top knick.
Don't know if that would enough to make a difference, but some snow due too by the looks of things
Just got back from the Glyders. We went into Cwm Cneifion and scrambled up Hidden Gully which was a mixture of deepish powder, old snow and rock. Great fun. There seemed to have been about six or eight inches of fresh snow which had drifted in places. Water ice was starting to form on Tower Slabs area but there still wasn't much there. Snowdon looked as if it was catching a big, slow moving shower while we were on the plateau. Hopefully the new snow will get the chance to consolidate...
What we saw was beautiful - reminds me of parts of Scotland. Will definitely be back (would need better kit or more favourable weather to go to summit!) and I'm already booked in, this time with my wife, in May. Maybe the train will be running for her then, and hopefully the weather will be fairer!
Neither my brother or I have ever experienced anything like it, Snowdon made one hell of an impression on us.
Looking ahead, some promising freezing levels:
Maybe this is the last gasp of winter?
I've written up the February winter action, with some pics on the Ground Up site. See here:
Base of the ridge:
Gallt yr Ogof:
Anybody been out today? Worth me diverting to somewhere with a bit of white stuff to try me new boots?
Might head there then instead of Snowdon. Taking a couple of relative newbies out to get their crampons wet...
Am interested to know any reports on the conditions today (saturday)
Trinity face???? Any chance at all??? got tuesday off work, really really hoping we can find something still hanging on 'in condition'. Any info at all would be MUCH appreciated.
Info from 8.3.9 @ www.rockmonkey.co.uk/blog
Summary: Six inches of slush and wind that could strip paint.
Now thats the attitude I like!! Oh yes I will be going whatever the weather, no fear.
By the way petejh, you have some VERY cool photos.
anybody been out in ogwen valley type area in the last few days? I'm going there for the weekend and was wondering whether I'll be needing to pack the ice axe?
(p.s. - not looking to do any climbing, just walking & scrambling so wondering about underfoot conditions more than gullys climbs etc).
I wouldn't bother. Pack your waterproofs instead.
that's what i feared.......! hey ho, it's all good nav practice.
Went up Senior's Ridge on the Glyders today, and down Y Gribin. Blustery but no snow to speak of really. There's the odd patch here and there, most of it slushy and disappearing rapidly. It's basically just bits in hollows, and cornice remnants.
Kill this thread, it's past its sell by date !
NO don't kill me
its cold outside winter is returning again !!!!
Keep this post alive permenantly! It is very helpful indeed.
Gah, it seems that this has taken on a life of it's own! :) Yes, that's me. I'm starting to regret ever mentioning it, mainly because of Yr Esgair! I'm desperately trying to think of some way out of it, but haven't thought of anything so far. Still got about half of them left to go, and I intend to leave that one until somewhere near the end, so I won't have to worry about it for a little bit yet. Hopefully.
Does it count if you do it in winter conditions? Grade II with 2 stars IIRC.
Yes, winter ascents do count. It's an interesting thought - I wonder if it's any less scary if it's all frozen together with a bit of ice around. I wouldn't imagine I'll get through the rest of them this summer anyway, so might be worth bearing in mind for next year. We seem to be de-railing this thread. :)
And when you do do Yr Esgair, please take lots and lots of photos! :)
What do you think ? really
It's been warm for ages with lashings of rain...come on !!!!!!!
Just back from the Pyg track (up and down) and just after the zigzags was plenty of snow and saturday morons 'sliding' on their arses down it in jeans/trainers..
No ice or snow really on the Pyg/Miners tracks before the Zig Zags though..
Got chance to use the crampons for a short while (which was good, as saved getting knocked over by said morons)
Summit was very very windy and in/out of cloud most of the day.
now thats a fun route....
has anybody here done yr esgier?
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