/ Snowdonia conditions?

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Andrew.Davies - on 29 Nov 2008
Looks white, and its bloody cold. Anybody got any reports from the hill?
Mike Peacock on 29 Nov 2008
In reply to napalm_life: I ventured further afield to Arenig Fach today. Lovely and cold, lots of frost and snow, and the view to Snowdon, Glyders and Carneddau was beautiful. The road from Penmachno onto the Migneint was quite treacherous. Uploading photos as we speak.
IainRUK - on 29 Nov 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Out in moelwyns today, will be pics on our blog (see profile) soon. Not much around, looked to be more in southern snowdonia than central.
Mike Peacock on 29 Nov 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Did a gully in Cwm Clyd yesterday, Snow is very very very powdery and frosty, and no more than an inch or two deep...a little dissapointing i suppose.
very cold and icy, and the decent down the devils kitchen path was treacherous, many slips and falls taken on the way down because of the Ice!
good fun out there though!
IainRUK - on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to carrot_boy: This just isn't winter climbing conditions at the moment, you could see that from the coast. It looks nice, good conditions to be on the hill, but how can you say conditions were dissapointing? seriously what did you expect? Best weekend of the winter so far. If you want winter climbs go north, any got around here are a bonus and I'm amazed you were 'dissapointed' in conditions yesterday. By the way a nights snow doesn't = winter climbing conditions. I also think winter climbing gullies when almost empty is just silly and damaging to plant life in such a important area for biodiversity.

I did a 20 k hill run over Moelwyn Mawr, Moelwyn Bach, Moel Yr Hydd, Foel Ddu, Allt Fawr, Moel Druman and Cnicht, followed by an 85 k road ride from Porthmadog over the Migneint and back via beddgel, brilliant weekend.

Some pics from yesterday here, and as you can see at 700m there was a dusting at best.

http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/2008/11/moelwyns-snow-run.html
Mike Peacock on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to IainRUK: Agreed, it's just powdery snow at the moment, clearly not winter climbing conditions.

Nice photos by the way, I still haven't done much down in the Moelwyns.
IainRUK - on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: Lovely spot. A great day or two's outing is to leave the car in Beddgelert, bus to Capel and walk back via siabod to aberglaslyn then up the gorge via the fishermans path. The central moelwyns is quite a unique area, untracked, all around 600m with small rises every k or so. We are trying to do more this side as we are living in port while renovation work is undertaken, enjoying getting to know this side a bit better.
Andrew.Davies - on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Went to Clogwyn Y garnedd today on snowdon. Snow wasn't thick or consolidated. but the Ice was Mucho Brill.
Mike Peacock on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to IainRUK: I've done Cnicht, Siabod and that area plenty of times (seeing as it's easy to access on the buses). It's the range from Ffestiniog I don't know; it just takes too long to get there on the train and buses.

Yesterday was my first trip to the Arenigs, again simply because you can't access them using public transport (with the exception of Rhobel Fawr and co from the Coed y Brenin). I really need to learn to drive!
mmd - on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

You all need to think out the box. Mixed is where it is at. What do most folk do in Scotland this time of year, not gullies or Ice routes.

This weekend, 4, first winter ascents of climbs on major crags done. There is plenty of snow on the less steep cliffs and the turf, that is proper turf not the grassy stuff is bomber .

Also other folk have had great mountaineering days out on graded scrambles .


IainRUK - on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to mmd:
> (In reply to napalm_life)
>
> You all need to think out the box. Mixed is where it is at.
>
> Also other folk have had great mountaineering days out on graded scrambles .

I agree. All I'm saying is that gullies were never going to be in this weekend. And people can do whatever they want, I ran and road biked, I met another mate who was walking in the area, another mate who was climbing at tremadog.

I must admit I'm suprised mixed routes were in though. It didn't seem that cold, yesterday at least.

I just cannpt see how anyone could have been left 'dissapointed' from this weekend.
JDSwain - on 30 Nov 2008
In reply to napalm_life: As long as things stay cold it should be pretty good on the buttress by mid week, heres hoping for the snow and cold temperatures we've been forecast!
sherpa_del - on 30 Nov 2008
Hi,

I'm just back from Snowdonia having a brillant weekend of mixed climbing and scrambling. Did Craig LLoer Spur on Saturday pitching the slab traverse with some hooking and climbing then short roping the rest on frozen turf and rock steps to the summit of Pen Y Ole. We watched the sun set over Snowdon from Dafydd before descending back to Glen Dena by head torch. There where heaps of folk on the Glyders coming off in the dark, it looked like fireflys over the massif.

Today it felt alot colder on the summits with the wind and a hard frost over night. Went and did the North Ridge of Tryfan which was great on the compacted snow. Just needed to protect one slab but there is plenty of water ice forming at the mo. The gullies on Tryfan where all thin but well frozen and a couple of teams where out today having a look.

With some more snow it could but really good, just wait and see.

SD.
mmd - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Sorry my reply to you sounded a bit harsh. I agree there was no point in going in gullies at all and again your spot on in view of what people were doing. Any one not having a top day out this weekend in the hills must have been !

the forecast looks very good for this week, all the way until a week today


Ian McNeill - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

hard frost here .... by the coast !

Cwm Bodlyn has to be in .... any one up for a walk ..... ?
Ian McNeill - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Ian McNeill:

second picture down on this page the crag and ice are right of centre ?
http://stigvista.co.uk/pa/walks/wales/rhinogs/rhinogs.htm

Im just down the road .... a 4X4 may get you real close?? ... next to the dam below the crag ...
Mike Peacock on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to sherpa_del:
>over Snowdon from Dafydd before descending back to Glen Dena by head torch. There where heaps of folk on the Glyders coming off in the dark, it looked like fireflys over the massif.
>

I noticed that too. There were even some lights high up on Tryfan East Face so I hope they got down alright.
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to carrot_boy) This just isn't winter climbing conditions at the moment, you could see that from the coast. It looks nice, good conditions to be on the hill, but how can you say conditions were dissapointing? seriously what did you expect? Best weekend of the winter so far. If you want winter climbs go north, any got around here are a bonus and I'm amazed you were 'dissapointed' in conditions yesterday. By the way a nights snow doesn't = winter climbing conditions. I also think winter climbing gullies when almost empty is just silly and damaging to plant life in such a important area for biodiversity.

I didn't say we were expecting winter conditions, just that it was a bit dissapointing becasue it would have been nice to have a bit more snow up there, and also would be nice if it was more hard packed...thats just my feelings tho. Also, who says we winter climbed a gully, just headed up one, snow was far too powdery to winter climb!
The OP asked for reports on what people had done, and what the conditions were like...thats what I gave!
mmd - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

things just keep getting better. Another top day out, second ascent of two routes done today. More snow and rime up high.
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Ian McNeill - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

any one up for a bodlyn wander tomorrow ?

cold and hard here already ?
petejh on 01 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: What's been done then?
I have been out climbing today, like the previous posts say it is very cold, the ground is frozen, the North facing crags are starting to rime and there is some ice about too. Photos and route report here: http://www.expeditionguide.com/blog.htm
The Bad Cough - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Rob Johnson expeditionguide.com:

Any more info on the area you where climbing in. ie which crag. Looks like a good route.
JDSwain - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Anyone know where i can get hold of a decent list of winter climbs to do round Snowdonia. I've just started uni at Bangor and want as much welsh winter as possible, just don't know where to look yet. Is it worth trying the scrambling guide or should i head for D/VD that are high up and just go for winter ascents of summer lines.

Whats the best bet crag wise for winter stuff to be in? If conditions are worth it sod lectures, winter climbing is far more important!

Cheers,

John
Andrew.Davies - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Swain16: You could always get the guide bro.
broc on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Swain16: Heya John,

Just seen your post. As a general rule, the places to come into condition quickest in Snowdonia are Upper Cwm Glas, Cwm Cneifion or Trinity face area. I've no idea exactly what the conditions are doing, but looking at the webcams and going on past experience of the Welsh winter, I'm guessing cold temps, a thininsh layer of powdery stuff and maybe some ice higher up?

If that is the case, then the gully's probably arn't the best option as they may not be consolidated but I could be wrong. I'd have thought buttress or mixed style routes would be better. Any of the common scrambles would be fun, generally get around grade I / II in winter - N Ridge of Tryfan, Bristly Ridge, Grybin, Snowdon Horseshoe etc are all easy but well worth it under snow. Also, the D/ VD line on the East face of tryfan are apparently doable in snow but probably unpleasant!

You could try the Clogwyny y Person arete in Cwm Glas - that will be snow covered and always goes in the snow. Gets II/III in the guide but can be hard at times.

If it is icy, then Tower Slabs in Cwm Cneifion might go but I doubt this is in condition. Some one else might know.

Looks like the Trinity gullys have been climbed recently. I have no idea what they were like.

Email me if you want any other suggestions and I'll dig the guide out. Cicerone do a Welsh winter guide.

Enjoy! (and no, I'm not jealous at all!)
JDSwain - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Cheers Ben, it snowed again last night, just need a cold snap now and things will be lovely, you'd love the view from my room at frith! I think it mayb be worth me buying guide, i may head to clogwyn Y person or somehwhere at end of the week. I think i'd be soloing so anything around III should be fun.
Mike Peacock on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Swain16: http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/1/title/welsh-winter-climbs

I would expect The Great Arete to have it in stock at the moment.
JDSwain - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Cool, i may head down there this afternoon
JDSwain - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Anyone been out so far this week and got anything to report back?
Mike Peacock on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Swain16: Looks like I'll be out tomorrow in the Carneddau so I should have a report and photos then.
dominic griffiths - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:
Any reliable mountain forecast for the weekend been given yet ?
petestack - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to dominic griffiths:
> Any reliable mountain forecast for the weekend been given yet ?

Um, how's anyone going to know that until the weekend? :-/

dominic griffiths - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to petestack:

I thought that that was the point of Forecasts.

I meant weather forecats rather than actual ice and snow conditions. A track of the freeze thaw cycle over the preceeding days hepls build the picture. Plus the actual forecast of conditions on the hill (e.g. will it be blowing a blzzard / pissing it down ) does help decision making on venues ( i.e. sod Wales I'm off to the Lakes etc) , does it not ??
petestack - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to dominic griffiths:
> (In reply to petestack)
>
> I thought that that was the point of Forecasts.

Yeah, I know, and am guessing you really meant [normally] reliable forecasts, but still thought your choice of wording (with that implied whiff of clairvoyance) interesting! :-)
mmd - on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Christs sake guys, this stuff about forecasts is !!!!

In terms of mixed climbs on certain aspects, it been the best conditions over the last few years currentley
Snowdonia Adventures - on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Swain16: Yes, I was out yesterday and yes there will probably be thin mixed routes in the usual places.

Temps are forecast to rise over the next few days, but still cold, so probably a very very gentle thaw.

Its still early in the season, but looking good.

http://www.meteonet.nl/aktueel/brackall.htm

Look for the Dotted line (isometic) with a marking of 528 as this represents the very cold air for the UK, where it crosses the UK = sub zero temps for all areas on and above that line.

Cheers
Mark
Mike Peacock on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures: I was out today and did Pen yr Ole Wen to Yr Elen. The snow is very deep on the tops in places but is still very powdery. I've taken a load of photos which I'll have up very soon.
Mike Peacock on 03 Dec 2008
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mmd - on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Another top day in Wales was had today. Between the 3 teams 5 routes done- 2 new routes, 2 first winter ascents of routes and an ascent of a classic route.

Today has to be one of those classic days out, turf bomber, crags covered in snow, blue skies and no wind.


IainRUK - on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to mmd: Stunning day wasn't it? Went for a lunch time run up Moel Eilio and along the ridge, no wind, no cloud, lovely light, stunning clarity. Not much snow at all on the Eilio ridge but everything very frozen. Quite warm in the sun, then bloody cold in the shade. Think it even beat the weekends weather, must have been the best day of the winter so far.
IainRUK - on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: Driving out at 4 ish the Carneddau looked stunning, cloud seemed to be rolling in from the west already though.

Cracking day for a long day in the Carneddau.
petejh on 03 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: What's with the vague info mmd? Fess up! Someone 'names withheld' had a good day out on 'locations withheld' and climbed 'route names + grades withheld'. What's with that? Don't be all coy - share the goodness dude.

Anyway for those who want some helpful conditions reports, today we climbed Pillar Chimney Variation on Clogwyn Du in Cwn Cnieffion under bluebird skies. Conditions were very good, rimed rock, mostly well frozen turf, lots of powder snow on ledges. Found the 2nd pitch crux slab getting round the corner to be pretty testy but well protected, I've climbed easier tech 5, it gets 4 in the guide, perhaps in easier conditions it would be. A really good mid grade mixed route (I'ld suggest IV 5) which should be in condition for the rest of the week with the freezing levels forecast to remain at 800 or lower with more snow on the way tonight.

There was also a party on Clogwyn Left Branch, the top pitch looks stella with lots of ice, bottom reported to be quite bare but good fun.

Some good pics of conditions on Clogwyn Du here: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/

check out 'The Crack' and 'Travesty' sick!

May I also suggest this would be a great place for trip reports, photos etc.

Pete.
mmd - on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Hi Pete. I can truly appreciate what your saying. However you know the score, cannot give the secrets out, as then they are not a secret anymore and then every one turns up Not trying to be !!!!

Anyway you seem to have had a top day. I would say that grade is for when its go a fair bit of ice in it. The crag does look in very good nick.
petejh on 03 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: Yeah I know but come on! I've got my eye on lines as well and if someone steals them then more power to them! It's just all about a good time that's all, good to share the knowledge with other folk who'll be inspired by the info to go out questing and get some good shit climbed instead of the scene languishing in the backwaters as usual with not a lot worthy getting done until the next time some sponsored warrior turns up and has at 'er.
I'ld love to see lots more winter climbers out in wales repeating mixed stuff when conditions are good like right now, instead of thinking that winter climbing is all about waiting 3 years for a chance to ascend a semi-frozen idwal stream by headtorch with 300 other punters.

And hey! who really cares who got the first FWA of 'ancientclassicroutex' anyway - they've all been done by James Archer Thompson in the 19th century with a coal hatchet for an ice axe!

pete.



In reply to petejh: Pete - I only found one photo - the crag shot. Did I miss them somehow?

Anyway - looks superb. Very jealous. I'll be over not too far away from N. Wales for Xmas and N. Year and if the conditions stay anything like this I'll probably be starting begging threads asking if anyone wants to do a route with me!
petejh on 04 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to TobyA: There's three pics in the photo gallery, they're all crag shots from various ranges/angles. I wasn't too sharp on getting any climbing shots. My partner took a bunch of shots on his 35mm, how quaint!:)


Tom Hutton - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

So to summarise, conditions in Snowdonia pretty good? Worth the drive up tomorrow for some easy stuff?
Mike Peacock on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Tom Hutton: Looking from the train today the snow has retreated a lot compared to yesterday. There looks to be some left still, but I suspect yesterday will be the best day for a while.
Tom Hutton - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri:

Thanks for the reply! I guess I'll bump it up later this afternoon and see if anyone's been out today
Mike Peacock on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Tom Hutton: A lot of the webcams are a bit useless at the moment, but Snowdon from the south is looking quite good still:
http://www.snowdonia-npa.gov.uk/page/index.php?nav1=enjoying&nav2=12&nav3=1&lang=eng&...
RobE - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Tom Hutton: Depends what you call easy but what I got from this thread is that there's not much snow about and so what's in nick is mixed and thus probably quite 'ard.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Just got back from a mooch around CC, temps in Ogwen were +2c had a romp up tower slab. a bit of snow has been stripped but the cwm is holding up OK. Early Friday morning looks like it will be sub zero warming up slightly to similar temps as today, as the day goes on.

Dont sit at home listening to all those who say its too warm, get out there and explore, plenty of people have moaned about its too warm the past few days, what the hell do they know? plenty of people have been out and got some great climbs done.

Cheers
mark
Tom Hutton - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri:

Think that's from yesterday - sadly...
Mike Peacock on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Tom Hutton: Ah, thought it looked a bit bright!
Snowdonia Adventures - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to RobE: If your after snowed up gullies then its a no go for Wales, If its the normal Idwall Stream type routes you want, then they are not ready, If you want grade 2 plus mixed routes then its worth getting out, hey if theres nothing doing just enjoy the fresh air and simply being out in the hills, or change the plan to a ridge route and have a great mountaineering day.

Cheers
Mark
petejh on 04 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: I've created a topo for Clogwyn Du and posted it on the Welsh Winter Climbs Wiki: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/

Second Mark's comment, weds may have been the nicest weather but there's going to be some freeze thaw going on now which is going to firm up whatever powdery snow that survives. So some of those easier gullies could well be worth a look if you don't mind scratching around a bit as well.

Long range forecast is looking cold enough.

pete.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh: What you up to tomorrow?
Cheers
Mark
The Bushman on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh:

I am off to North Wales tomorrow. There will allways be something to do... Just be flexible and explore a bit
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Snowdonia Adventures - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh: Got your email Pete, give me a call on 01286 879044.
mmd - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh:

EL MANCHO IS ONE OF THE BEST ROUTES IN THE UK. ITS HAD ONLY 4 ASCENTS ALL FROM NORTH WALES BASED CLIMBERS . ALL OF THEM RAVE ON THE QUALITY OF THE ROUTE . HOWEVER IT NEEDS FROZEN TURF NOT JUST RIME

Hi Pete nice one on the topo. Ground Up website has one also for summer. You must be local to know in regards to some of these routes ?

Anyway the top pitch of El Mancho is shown different to what I did.? So we either did a slight variation or your topo is wrong. Not sure really which is which.

Reading the Ogwen guide I cannot really make out if what we did , is where Manx Wall goes on its top pitch in summer.

Research to be done I think by me
petejh on 04 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: Yeah El Mancho looks the bomb, I wanted to do it yesterday but decided I want a couple of routes warm up first. Have climbed Manx Wall in summer and I imagine the exposed and awkward crux must feel twice as exposed and awkward with axes and poons!

The crag topo is just a copy of the one on Simon Panton's website, any inaccuracies are probably mine, but it's still better than the book! I figured it makes more sense to have a shot of the cliff in winter conditions instead of summer. I'm not claiming any kind of superior knowledge, that's why it would be nice if the people who do have the info would put it on the winter climbs website so we don't have to go by out of date books and inaccurate topos. For example I put a list of routes for clogwyn du, anyone can add or change the route descriptions or grades if they feel they have something better.

If anyone has some good crag shots I'll happily make up a photo topo for the website if they want to email them to me.

There's a nice blank webpage just waiting for photos and info on the Glyders mmd ;)

pete.
mmd - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh:

I agree a topo in winter of this crag is a great idea. Not saying you should know everything. The crux on manx wall in summer did this leave that narrow ledge and pull over the small overlap off that ledge, the overlap had a crack above it which was slightly overhung to start with. ?
petejh on 04 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: now your asking... umm, it's been a few years, I remember traversing leftwards along and slightly up a narrow ledge system across the bottom of the slab. This then leads to the tricky mantle/thrutch onto the exposed ledge below the final wall which is slightly overhanging forcing you out over the abyss on the crux move.

I was taking another look at the topo I posted and the line I marked as El Mancho definitely coincides with what I saw on the crag the other day as the most obvious way to go for a new winter route i.e. large turfy ledges running across the face to a belay ledge and then up an obvious crack above to join manx wall at the crux.
Manx Wall as a mixed route looks pretty hard, have you done it also?
Jollyrascal on 04 Dec 2008 - 10.57.125.252 [212.183.134.130]
In reply to TobyA:
I'll get in there straight away Toby, will also be up in N Wales over Xmas and if conditions are good will also be looking for partners. Will track you down on UKC if that ok with you.
Snowplod on 04 Dec 2008 - 78.150.6.118 whois?
In reply to napalm_life:

Went for a wander up round Idwal today and ended up following the Idwal Stream line. As expected the route most definately wasn't 'in', however there were one or two sections of decentish ice higher up which gave some decent entertainment. Turf was most definately not frozen and the snow very loose and mushy. As I was walking out the volume of water coming off the hill had definately increased from the mornings walk in. Predictably the weekend aint looking that hot, but as someone else said earlier, just enjoy getting out whatever.
centurion05 on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh:

what was the way you tried then on pillar chimney on wednesday, its slightly harder than the original line, if the turf was guaranteed to have been frozen, i woulda given it a bash, but getting half way along the traverse to find the turf isn't frozen woulda been pants filling.

centurion05
mmd - on 05 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Not great temp was between plus 3 and 6 at half way station all thurs eve/early fri morning
Simon Panton not registered on 05 Dec 2008 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to mmd: Re: El Mancho - well said that man. It really is an amazing route.

We thought the first pitch up the turfy ramp was 6 (not too much gear either - I remember pounding a couple of warthogs in and placing one wire.)

The second pitch is well protected, but technically harder (i.e. 7) and there is more of it.

I reckon the line of the top section on the new topo is slightly wrong. After the initial hard wall, you climb up the corner line and then hang a left at the break, stomach traversing out with the small roof above you. A few metres out you break through the roof via a thin crack. The position here is amazing: both axes and monos in the crack, and the world dropping away beneath your feet. Luckily the gear is good, so it's more exhilirating than terrifying.

I think for past winter ascents of Manx Wall people kept traversing and climbed the diagonal groove/corner on the left. I know this is how Dick Turnbull and Frank the decorator did it.

I also reckon that the initial line of the Winter Manx Wall on the new topo is a bit too far to the right. I've got some old slides of me on this section - if I can get my scanner sorted out again (gone digi these days) I'll post them on the wiki.

Here's a link to the original topo I did - would have been better with a winter garb pic, but I didn't have a digi shot.

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/upload/members/Clogwyn%20Du%20Winter%20mixed%20routes.pdf

The other thing worth mentioning is that CD Left Hand Gully gives a brilliant V 6 when the ice fall isn't formed properly (i.e. most of the time). Just climb up the groove 2-3m to the right and swing back left at the top. Loads of gear, but hard and sustained.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 05 Dec 2008
Went in to Cwm Cneifion today with PeteJH, The vis was pretty crap, couldnt see Glogwyn Du and decided to just head up Hidden Gully, this was pretty banked out with fresh snow from last night.

As we got back down in to the cwm the cloud broke occassionally and we got a good look at Clogwyn Du, Pete commented that the ice was a lot fatter than on Wednesday, it looked pretty good to me with decent ice on the slab that follows the chimney section but a little thinner at the start.

Also looking in good nick were both left and right branch of Clogwyn Gully with good ice at the Y and lower down, the bottom section looked thin.

Yesterday I went up Tower Slabs and found it thin, today the whole side of that slope has been stripped from last nights weather as its not as sheltered as higher in the Cwm, it was all black right up to the scree slopes, so no routes are in condition.

Over in Clogwyn Y Geifr 'The Trench' was a nice wide strip of snow as was 'Castle Gully'. From what we could see of Glyderau Y Garn Cwm most of the gullies looked pretty banked out.


Cheers
Mark
Allan McDonald - on 05 Dec 2008
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures: Heading out to Snowdonia tomorrow with a friend who ain't done much before. Was wondering whether anyone has seen waht the small icefalls beneath the Black ladders are like as would like to do some 'ice bouldering' with him before trying owt harder.

Also anyone any idea of anywhere else that we could have a play one ?

Thanks

Allan mcDonald
Mike Peacock on 05 Dec 2008
In reply to Allan McDonald: This was the Black Ladders on Wednesday:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3079822689/

I suspect they've changed somewhat now though.
petejh on 05 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to Allan McDonald:
Just posted a report and pics from today on the Welsh Winter Climbs Wiki: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
Clogwyn Left Hand is starting to look really good, and the ice on Pillar Chimney is really fattening out since wednesday. Check out the pics.

Of note for those looking for grade I/II stuff:
The whole back wall of cwm cneifion is well filled in and would be a good place to head to.
Hidden Gully is banked out, easy I/II and fun.
The gullies on Y Garn look good if you are prepared to walk up scree to get to them.
Haven't seen it but I imagine the trinity face would be well worth a look this weekend.
Pete.
Mike Peacock on 05 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh: How low is the snow level?
petejh on 05 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to Touching Centauri: It's on the wiki report.

I think it's worth mentioning that even though the routes on Clogwyn Du are starting to look really good, if the turf aint frozen (like today) they shouldn't be climbed, no matter how much ice is up there.
The Bushman on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Was up in Snowdon area yesterday. From Betwsy Coed looking North the Mountains looked very white. Once at the Penny Pas car park it was sleet/hailing and the cloud low. It did not look promising...

But once I got up to 550m it was a different story. The west side(Snowdon side) of Crib Goch from about 600m had a lot of snow. A bit wet yesterday but I was surprised to see how much there was. The higher one got the deeper the cover.

I did a possible new route on the west side of Crib Goch. A fantatic 40 m pitch with a fat 14 foot ice pillar start then a groove of snow and ice and some turf led up and over ice covered rock. A small consolation prize that was not expected. The route is high up but easily accessed from the walkers track with a traverse in to access.

PS on top of the Snowdon Horshoe the wind was baltic almost blown off feet. It is very wintery up there and down to around 650m. With a refreeze I think its only going to get better!
JDSwain - on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Has anyone got any recommendations given current conditions for routes to do on Sunday and Monday. I've seen that things may be warming up Sunday buy monday looks colder again. Looking for things at III/IV i suppose.

Any help would be awesome
Mike Peacock on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to Swain16: I had a few hours this morning so had a jaunt from Ogwen into Cwm Clyd via the Fisherman's Path, then up onto Y Garn. Conditions have changed since I was out on Wednesday and the snow is now nice and hard, most people were needing crampons to get up the final stretch of ridge onto Y Garn.

Y Garn NE Ridge
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3086281441/

Cwm Clyd
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3086280777/
Nicholas Livesey on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: I've been sweating like a rapist this last week listening to condition reports and I'm gagging to get out there. Coming up next weekend, what's the betting that there will be sod all snow? :-(

It looks gorgeous up there today, nice photos (which I wish I hadn't looked at).;-)
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jezb1 - on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: I was going to go up this week end but decided to give it a miss :( ffs
Mike Peacock on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: I've had three days out in the last week, all have featured extensive blue skies, crisp air, and plenty of snow. Hehe :)
Nicholas Livesey on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: You smug little bas..... ;-)
Nicholas Livesey on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to jezb1:
> (In reply to Nicholas Livesey) I was going to go up this week end but decided to give it a miss :( ffs

Yes I almost went up but my mates have booked time off for next weekend and I can't afford two weekends on the trot at the moment.

It's killing me sitting in Peterborough knowing how things are up there...killing me I tell ya!

jezb1 - on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: TC, you haven't by any chance got a photo showing Hidden Gully in Cwm Cneifion have you?
Mike Peacock on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to jezb1: Nope sorry, haven't been into Cwm Cneifion yet this month. I imagine someone will have been up there today and will provide photos later.
In reply to jezb1: I took a photo of Cwm Cneifion yesterday. Heres the link: http://www.expeditionguide.com/blog.htm


Rob
petejh on 06 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to jezb1: We went up Hidden Gully yesterday, it's banked out. Pics of Hidden Gully and Clogwyn Du and conditions report on the Welsh Winter wiki: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
Snowdonia Adventures - on 06 Dec 2008
twm.bwen - on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:
Whats the forecast conditions for next weekend. More white stuf or are we going to lose it?
Nicholas Livesey on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to twm.bwen: That's what I would like to know.
jezb1 - on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures: Thanks for the shots, maybe able to get up there for tuesday :)
twm.bwen - on 06 Dec 2008
In reply to jezb1: I'm no weather man but I'm not sure we're going to have the same conditions by next week, looks wetter and warmer. Boo.
Nicholas Livesey on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to twm.bwen: Just looked at the webcams and it looks as though the snow is rapidly vanishing:-(
Fex Wazner - on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:

Just looked at the 5 Day, looks like Rain for Tuesday with a low of 2 degrees. Hopefully there will be another freeze to get some good ice on the go. Looks like it will be getting warmer in the short term though.

Fex
Mike Peacock on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to Fex Wazner: The Met Office forecast for Tuesday:

A cold day with a high wind-chill effect over the tops with a combination of temperatures below freezing at most levels and a strong to gale force northwesterly winds. Also scattered snow showers.
Fex Wazner - on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri:

Do you reckon Weds looks like a better day then? Had the Gale force effect up there the last two times I have been.

Fex.
Nicholas Livesey on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to Fex Wazner: It's not looking hopeless....

Outlook for Wednesday / Rhagolygon ar gyfer Dydd Mercher
A few snow showers during the morning, becoming dry with sunny spells. The strong northwesterly wind over the summits gradually easing down. Temperatures will be below freezing at most levels.

Outlook for Thursday / Rhagolygon ar gyfer Dydd Iau
It will stay dry and bright during the morning with light winds. Snow will begin to edge in from the west during the afternoon.

Mike Peacock on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to Fex Wazner: I think I'm going to try Wednesday and hope for the best. The wind has picked up today though.
carnie - on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Anybody been out today? am planning on coming up from London tonight for a couple of days and wondered how things were shaping up
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Fex Wazner - on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:

Cheers for that.

Fex.
In reply to Fex Wazner: Fex - I'll be in the 'port (that just sounds dumb doesn't it? There is just no way to make my home town sound cool...) 19th Dec. to Jan 3rd. If there is snow in Wales or even Lakes and you're around and up for some climbing, I'd be well up for it.

Fex Wazner - on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to TobyA:

You've got my number, lets do it!

Will be good to meet up for a blast again.

Fex.
petejh on 07 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: Climbed a link up of Clogwyn LH into RH then back to LH avoiding the ice fall today, really good climbing. Bomber neve in the cwm today. Some more pics on the welsh winter wiki.
mmd - on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh:

Nice one pete, good to see the wiki being used. As always its needs someone keen to get these off the ground, maybe I should put some effort in ?


the colonel - on 07 Dec 2008
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Fex Wazner) Fex - I'll be in the 'port (that just sounds dumb doesn't it? There is just no way to make my home town sound cool...) [..]

That's not Southport is it?
In reply to the colonel: Nope, but having not had the pleasure of visiting Southport I can't say if it is an improvement or not! :-)
petejh on 07 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-33.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: Thanks. I really think the wiki has big potential. Perhaps my keenness has something to do with two things - that we've been using a wiki in the rockies to record the development on some new quartzite cliffs which I and a couple of buddies have been developing for the past couple years. Awesome stuff - whole cloggy's worth of trad and sport new routing. And secondly I normally live in Canmore and for the rockies ice conditions everyone uses Will Gadd's conditions website to keep each other informed what's in and what's not, new routes and any access info. It works really well in conjunction with a guidebook in your hand. Check out http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/
Anyways, yeah your input would make the winter wiki massively better for sure, I'ld be psyched to see some of the blanks getting filled in.

pete.
merchant of menace on 08 Dec 2008 - cpc4-warw9-0-0-cust484.brhm.cable.ntl.com
In reply to napalm_life: sat and sunday in Cwm Cneifon were pretty good.
snow cover on routes was good and felt quite firm up high. saturday night low temp really made a difference and sunday morning the the snow was very hard.
unfortunately as day progressed the temp went up and snow softened again
saw plenty of good climbing going on both days plus fantastic weather
keep your eyes on the weather it may yet last
jezb1 - on 08 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Any amateur meteorologists care to predict snow / ice conditions for thursday & friday?
rob s on 08 Dec 2008 - gateway.spgroup.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:
Went up Daear Ddu ridge, Siabod yesterday, 'just a bit of fun' snow about 1/2 way up, some ice building in the cracks, but did not require crampons. Nice covering of firm snow ontop disapearing about 1500m, Would suggest freeze an thaw would make it quite treacherous if it keeps cold. Dam ice covered grass always gets me.
Dave Bingham - on 08 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Does anybody know the snow or ice conditions on Y Garn or Parsley Fern Gully area and the waterfalls lower down the valley? I'm looking for anything grade 1 to 3. Any other suggestions for gullies or easy buttresses? Cheers!
Mark Salter - on 08 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Hi Dave. Thinking of going up with a mate tomorrow night depending on what I can find out about latest forecast / conditions. You going up this week?
Dave Bingham - on 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Mark Salter: Hi Mark, maybe going up this weekend. If you get to know the conditions please let me know. Cheers
twm.bwen - on 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Mark Salter: i too am thinking of going up tomorow night as thursday looks like good weather but i have no idea about conditions.
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/top
Does anyone know if i'll get bollocked f
or sleeping in my car at the pen-y-pass car park?

Mike Peacock on 08 Dec 2008
In reply to twm.bwen: I don't know, but there are other lay-bys around a few minutes away. Generally you'll be fine elsewhere.
The Bushman on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to twm.bwen:

Wednesday and thursday seem like the two best days
jezb1 - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to The Bushman: That settles it I'm going up wednesday night, I'm doing my nut sat down here in Hampshire.
mmd - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Hi the clouds lifted this afternoon here in N Wales. There is fresh new snow above 750 meters. In terms of conditions, It was very warm yesterday and I do not know if things warmed up a lot before the new snow came. So until we go up high I do not know what the conditions will be like mind you I will be surprised if they have reduced so there is nothing to do

However, a friend of mine was on the Black Ladders Sunday just gone and experienced really good neve and good turf and climbed a couple of grade 3,s so things could have hung in and with a new good freeze it could make things all good. I mean the things that were there before.

It is lot colder this afternoon than yesterday as the forecast suggests.

There are very very few ice routes around, you need to realise that the cycles have not been in place at low level and are only starting to happen up high. The other thing to realise is that you cannot keep viewing wales as snow/ice venues, if you do you will climb much. Get on those snowed up scrambles, as they are routes, your climbing and its a great day out.

if things go hard then there could be reasonable routes on Snowdaon as thats high alongside other high crags.

I am hoping to go out on WED, if I do I will try and offer some info on conditions.
mmd - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: go to snowdon on welsh winter wiki and then crib goch
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mynyddresident - on 10 Dec 2008
Went up to Cwm cneifion at 6 45am, 4 degress at Og cottage. The snow patches on the Gribin ridge were very firm presumabley thanks to the freeze thaw but higher in the Cwm there was a soft covering of new snow.

As i arrived at the cwm just before sunrise a team was setting off up the Y branched grade 3/4 in the middle of Clogwyn Du and i met two more teams on their way up who hadn't opted for the alpine start.

Didn't have time to do anything as I have to be home now unfortunately.

A thaw up high as a previous poster had mentioned wouldn't be a bad thing because there are decent amounts of snow in the gullies to last if it consolidates and we get sub-summit freezing levels .

Whoever gets out, enjoy .
carnie - on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to mynyddresident: Was up in cwm cneifion on Tuesday,conditions were very good very icy the snow was consolidated and the turf frozen, all routes looked to be in good nick! We just did hidden gully as we were late getting out of bed thinking that the warm weather on Monday would hav destroyed conditions.....how wrong we were!!! oh well know better for nxt time, had great day anyway.
Mike Peacock on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to carnie: The forecast for tomorrow look fantastic. Dry, still and cold.
Tim Davies - on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Banana gully in good shape today, nice and easy. Gullies to left of summit more icy,appeared to have been wind scoured a bit more.

Just about freezing on summits today, air felt damp.

Several parties in Cwm Cneifion, headtorch in the cwm at 0715!! Very keen.
mmd - on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Update for Wed.

Freeze level approx 800m. Below that, I would think there is no climbing anywhere really. However, above there you will find very good snow conditions and good neve, that is what we found in nameless cwm today

There is not much fresh snow around so its all very pleasent and nice.

Tower slabs and tower gully are in very good nick. Lefthand looks good high up and a good 5/6 on first pitch maybe, but there is ice in there. Anywhere in that cwn you could climb on the turf / rocks etc with the turf being frozen.

We went up to Gastell Y Gwynt and did a first ascent. This climbed the the r/h corner of the large slab that is visible as you walk up the cwm from Bochlwyd just down and left from the col. Between Crab Slab and Frosts Climb.

Pictures can be found on welsh winter wiki

This gives a short but v good grade III/3 pitch on turf and ice, a few wires to protect , slighty run out in middle section

The whole of the cwn high up is covered in frozen turf and neve all very nice

The other place that should be ok is Snowdon as this is higher and similar aspect ie no sun

Enjoy it Thursday folks, Friday looks bum but sat sun better and this all adds up to a possible good cycle.
Nicholas Livesey on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to mmd: Nice one, going to check out the wiki.
I really fancy Left Hand or Central Trinity for sat or sun, if anyone has been up them recently I'd love to hear about it.

If I get something done at the weekend I'll update the wiki.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 10 Dec 2008
Update for Wednesday 10th Cwm Cneifion.

Didn't opt for the very early alpine start that Gerwyn and Matt did!!! those who's lights were visible when we were all in the carpark.

Climbed Y Branch Right hand. The turf was not frozen and the snow switched between loose/hollow sugar snow to bomber neve, I would grade the 1st pitch at the top end of 3 pushing 4 due to the sketchy conditions and big run outs.

Higher up things improved, after the cave stance, good neve in places and better frozen turf with good rock gear, good ice was found at the crux section, took a solid ice screw placement.

I ran the route out in two pitches, one pitch to the cave and then the last pitch pretty much to 20ft below the easy ground, equalised axes and a bulldog in rock hard neve at the last belay.

A great day out, a couple of parties on Pillar Chimney and a few on Hidden Gully, plus a team of 3 mates on the bold El Mancho.

Check out the Welsh Winter Climbs Wiki for reports.

Cheers
Mark H
RobE - on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to mmd:
Howdy, did you get a look at central or eastern gully when you up on Glyder Fach today?

Cheers,


Rob
mmd - on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

SORRY if you have looked for pics on wiki, i can get them on for some reason
DannyH on 10 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:
Thanks to all those posting conditions - helps keep the faith. Anyone know if the Arrans are holding any snow at all?
cheers
D
petejh on 10 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-1.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: It may be the file size is too high, anything much over 1 megabyte gets rejected. Nice work on the new route, sounds really good.

Climbed El Mancho today in Cwm Cneifion with Dave and Jamie. Stunningly good route, best british mixed I've ever had the pleasure of climbing. Details on channel wiki.
FedUp - on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh:

We saw you on El Mancho. Superb lead. It was very entertaining watching the last man in the grovely traverse section too; looked desperate trying to get into a standing position! Well done.

We arrived very late in the cwm due to coming straight from off a night shift (which by sods-law finished late at almost 8am) so we didn't start climbing till well after midday.

Great snow conditions in the cwm - but the ice was a different matter. Left Branch Y looked in nice condition from the base of the crag so we went in for a closer look. I started up the main pitch but bailed. The actual ice was nice and plastic but it was de-laminating with water running behind it and - to me anyway - felt dangerous. Shame because it did look a good route and I've wanted it for years...

Anyway we climbed Right Branch instead. A very big thankyou to the two guys who very kindly didn't start the route and instead let us race up before dark, as it was their second route of the day and we'd yet to do one.
Unfortunately though, Right Branch was marginal by then so we couldn't really race: Sugary and brittle ice and turf that was only just frozen made it fairy exciting. Topped-out in the failing light and had a fun descent down the Gribin Ridge in the dark.

A great day and well worth making the effort after a night shift for. I'm sure the other half-dozen teams had as much fun too.
Duane - on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:
I got day off, a week on friday. wanting to go up alone for some walking or low grade scrambling. got me' crampons and poles. my wife thought i was looking at crib goch, but am only looking for something to get me started in the snow.
any safe advice?
(apart from staying at home)
mux - on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh: Good to see you got out at the weekend, ...I am gutted I couldnt make it as it looked in great nic for mixed.

Looks like I am stuck with the family now till the new year so I only hope that this cycle keeps on turning so I can get out when I am back.


bms on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:
> I really fancy Left Hand or Central Trinity for sat or sun, if anyone has been up them recently I'd love to hear about it.

Thursday. Went up Parsley Fern Gully followed by Central Trinity Gully. Parsley was completely filled up with quite well consolidated snow. Any ice was well buried so it was very straightforward. Central Trinity was also quite well filled up but for some reason the snow was far more sugary. L Hand Trinity had a line of steps going up it. There is plenty of snow in the gullies above 750m so let's hope it survives.
Ben

RobE - on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to bms:

Did you get a look at any of the other trinity face gullies - ladies?
bms on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to RobE:
> (In reply to bms)
>
> Did you get a look at any of the other trinity face gullies - ladies?

I traversed under Ladies. There is certainly plenty of snow in the gully but I couldn't honestly say how solid it was. Same for Cave Gully. There was a chap ahead of me who had a quick look at R Hand Trinity but decided that, due to the crumbly snow, it wasn't on solo. I am pretty sure that if I was with a roped partner, fun could have been had in any of the main lines.
Ben

RobE - on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to bms:

Cheers for that. It's not sounding as great as I'd hoped for the w/end.
Nicholas Livesey on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to bms: Thanks Ben, that was exactly the sort of thing I was wondering about:-)
David Hooper - on 11 Dec 2008
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:

Sounds like a good thaw and refreeze will do the trick
Mark Salter - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to FedUp: No probs for letting you up right hand. We had a good day out on hidden gully (right branch), tower slabs and down easy gully. Went back yesterday and did tower gully which was really nice except the first bit where the turf was soft, and down y gribin. Must get back for left and right branches if they remain or return - lots of folk queuing up right hand yesterday and a few on left. Also a couple of folk on blenderhead - don't know how they faired?
FedUp - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to Mark Salter:

Cheers.
A decent freeze again Wednesday night I presume?
j.anstee - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to FedUp: Any idea on conditions for the weekend?
Mike Peacock on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to j.anstee: The freezing level is forecast to be above the tops, coming down to 800m sometime on Sunday.

I was out last night and there's still a lot of hard snow around, crampons would certainly be an advantage.
Wibble Wibble - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri:
> (In reply to j.anstee) The freezing level is forecast to be above the tops, coming down to 800m sometime on Sunday.
>

Seems a bit pessimistic. Snowforecast, Metcheck and MWIS are all forcasting FL falling to 600m-700m on Sat and a wee bit lower on Sun. Could be worth a look.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 12 Dec 2008
At the moment its tipping down with rain, winds with gusts to 50mph.
Temp here at 235m is +6c, there has been a bit of snow stripped back today.
It is warmer than the metoffice forecast.

Long range forecast is looking good for Sunday to Monday and warming up after that with the threat of a longer spell of warmer conditions.

Monday looks like a good day to go out :)

Cheers
Mark
Mike Peacock on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to Wibble Wibble: Fair enough. I only glanced at the met office mountain forecast. Didn't bothered looking elsewhere (mainly as I won't be able to get out this weekend).
Mark Salter - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to FedUp: Yes, a really hard frost Wed night so you'd probably have had better luck with left hand on Thursday! Nevermind, early season yet.
JDSwain - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Anyone think if it'll be worth going out tommorrow on my own? is anything likely to be in condition given the slight rise in temperatures recently?
Neil Anderson - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Welsh winter climbs site/wiki - hard to find - can you let people have the URL?

thanks
FedUp - on 12 Dec 2008
jezb1 - on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Had an awesome day on Friday, walked up in the dark and did easy gully, a little spur just to the right of easy gully and then hidden gully. Top conditions.

Woke up in my tent this morning after a shed load of rain and thought sod it so went crimbo shopping in Llandudno instead.
Mike Peacock on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to jezb1: Where were you camped?
jezb1 - on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: Dol Gam
Richard Baynes - on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: Just saw this:
..."sweating like a rapist".. from yr post
V funny but watch out the PC police will get you!!
Jamie Light on 13 Dec 2008
Any update on North Wales conditions?
Dr.S at work - on 14 Dec 2008
In reply to Jamie Light:
wandered into cwm cnefion this morning with low expectations, however the head wall of the cwm is holding lots of nice solid snow and I ambled up something about grade I ish - maybe broad gully?
heard two teams elsewhere in the cwm - could not say where as is was fairly misty.

Saw someone with skis strapped to their rucksack - now thats optimism!
Tony2 - on 14 Dec 2008
Parsley Fern today. No snow in lower cwm, snow in upper cwm. Soft to the left/main branch, quite good snow for the last 100m. No cornice. No ice (in fact the gully stream was running free!)Crampons used + didnt ball up at all. Used up to the summit and down the zig zags. (loads of people without axes and crampons slipping all over the zig-zags).
Groups on Central Trinity but reports of snow getting thin in places. No ice anywhere.
mmd - on 14 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Glogwyn Ddu left branch in very good nick today, a lot of ice in there, screws into hilt and v good ice, more than on thurs before thaw. Only one party in there all day ??? I bet they are glad they made a day out from the Peak

Tower gully and others were in good condition also, even though soft snow

WE managed two new routes up in the cwm. However, it was getting warm as we left 4.00 ish and snow getting soft

If it does get cold over the next few days then left hand should be ok. However, the forecast does not look good. It could well be the end for the time.
petejh on 14 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-1.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: Nice work! Does this mean I'm going to have to update the topo AGAIN? :)
How's the turf doing up there, planning on trying Blenderhead tomorrow as long as it's frozen.
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Derek Kenyon on 15 Dec 2008 - 82.152.218.40 whois?
In reply to sherpa_del:

Thanks for the info, Yesterdy myself and friend climbed Craig LLoer Spur, we had quite a lot of fresh snow, we found the lower crack pitch quite hard. I also found the main slab pitch exciting to say the least, plaster with fresh snow, could'nt see the hand rail traverse do that was a suprise. From the notch its very exposed and commiting. I climbed it with axes no crampons my mate wore crampons, swings and roundabouts.
Not sure what grade you would put on it, not that it maters.
Great day out.
Any more suggestions?

Thanks again

Derek Kenyon (mountaineering club of Bury)
derek.kenyon@hotmail.co.uk
L.A. on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Derek Kenyon: 'my mate wore crampons, swings and roundabouts'

I always thought I carried too much unnecessary gear but your mate wins on that!!
Derek Kenyon - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to L.A.:
Not that I didn't carry any but chose not to put them on, As I said it was 50/50 that they where more an hinderance than good.
Was the route snow covered when you did it? Had you done it before?

Certainly one to recommend, though I don't know about soloing it as a Gr 3 scramble.

Thanks

Derek

P,s any pics?
L.A. on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Derek Kenyon: I was pointing out that you had implied that your mate had worn crampons, swings and roundabouts. Made me laugh.
Derek Kenyon - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to L.A.:

Great route Eitherway.

Was it winter conditions when you did it?
If you send me you email address my mate took some good pics of the climb.
I could send them to you.


Thanks for you time

Derek
Snowdonia Adventures - on 15 Dec 2008
Me and Pete headed back to Clogwyn Du this morning, the original plan was to climb Blenderhead, however Pete has come down with a chill and wasn't feeling on form and I had no intention of leading at that grade so we opted for Left branch as the ice fall looked very inticing... great mixed climbing up to the main ice fall, however the whole thing was melting and very hollow, I backed off and came back down, it just didnt feel right... We swapped over and Pete had a look and got a fair bit further than me, but also came to the same conclusion, it wasnt worth the risk. A lot warmer up there today.


There was a pair climbing El Mancho we watched for a while and got some good photos, So if you were the 2 climbers drop me or Pete a line and we can mail you the pics :)

Cheers
Mark H

FedUp - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures:
> ...however the whole thing was melting and very hollow, I backed off and came back down, it just didnt feel right...

Well, I'd intended trying to beat the thaw and rush up there tomorrow for Left Hand Branch...

> ...also came to the same conclusion, it wasnt worth the risk. A lot warmer up there today...

Don't think I'll bother now. Bit of luck really, as trying to re-arrange my home and work life around the climbing was proving to be a bit awkward.
Cheers! Saved me a wasted trip and loads of marital grief.

Snowdonia Adventures - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to FedUp:Your welcome :), The 2 week forecast doesnt look to good for winter in N Wales, warm and wet from west/south west up until the 20th atleast,but we all know things can change...Im sure we have not seen the last of the good winter climbing conditions of late.

Tomorrow Im going to the Carneddau with skis! just for the hell of it,
If anyone else fancies a day out touring across the tops let me know..post on here or phone me.
Cheers
Mark H
sherpa_del - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Derek Kenyon:

Glad you enjoyed it. Doing the slab tranverse and then climbing it has some
good airy exsposure. God knows how you would sort a rescue out from falling
off the slab and its only a grade 3 scramble!! There is some good gear to
protect it but cranking on the axes to get on to the ledge above the slab
for the belay takes some courage to complete the move. I loved the line
and also did it without crampons. Dunno even if its a winter mixed climb
but had an audience watch us do it looking from Daffydd then walking
around to meet us.

I was in Cwm Cneifion a couple of weekends ago ticking the grade 1, 2 and
3's. Best line was Tower Slabs taking the line direct going over the rocks
steps, reminds me of Cresta on the Brenva Face, Ben Nevis. Now waiting to
go to Scotland at the end of the month.

SD

sherpa_del - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures:

Sounds fanstansic, posts the picys up when your back... never seen anyone ski on the Carneddau and no one will believe me either.

SD
mmd - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

if you were to 2 on el mancho today ( monday ) let me know who you are and what you thought as you will be the 6th team to do it since first ascent and I am trying to get thoughts on grade etc as this is one of the best routes in the UK

cheers
FedUp - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures:
> The 2 week forecast doesnt look to good for winter in N Wales,

Just as well, I'm either working or with the family 'till New Year now. I'd only get pissed off staring out of the window.

> Im sure we have not seen the last of the good winter climbing conditions of late.

Yes, I hope so too. It's been the coldest start to a winter for 30 years apparently, so hopefully it bodes well for the next few months?
I managed to climb Western Gully on The Black Ladders in good condition in March '06, and I'm praying for a repeat this year, so fingers crossed.

petejh on 15 Dec 2008 - host86-175-32-117.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd: Also to the party on El Mancho today - if you found the .5 camalot just above the second belay and a bulldog near the top which my partner couldn't get out I'ld love to get them back...
jaswa - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Opinions wanted....Black Ladders on Monday 22nd...what do people think its going to be like by then?
kevin stephens - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to jaswa:

according to metcheck warm and wet for a few days, then warm and sunny, Gogarth may be a better bet
mmd - on 16 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Black ladders. Crap yesterday, crap today so I do feel crap next monday with forecast

sorry
Mike Peacock on 16 Dec 2008
In reply to mmd: Feels a lot warmer today. I'm off to the northern Rhinogs.
Mike Peacock on 16 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: Hmm, what a wild day! The snow has retreated in northern Snowdonia. We did a wander up Moel Ysgyfarnogod from Llyn Trawsfynydd and were engulfed by mist and rain all day. The temperature was much warmer though.
mmd - on 16 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Winter is over for the time being. Sorry folks


mmd - on 18 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

Check out ground up website - news
ads.ukclimbing.com
Mike Peacock on 18 Dec 2008
In reply to mmd: I know it's quite lazy, but it would make things easier if people could give links!
http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=224
jezb1 - on 19 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life: Love that before and after shot of Rocio taking a fall.
Simon Panton not registered on 19 Dec 2008 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to jezb1: I added another image this morning, and details of another route on the Black Ladders. Got more new route info coming as well - it has been a very busy period!
Simon Panton not registered on 19 Dec 2008 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to Simon Panton not registered: I've added the extra route info now to the Ground Up news report.
Geoffrey Michaels on 19 Dec 2008 - host86-167-199-81.range86-167.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Simon Panton not registered:

Great pictures there, well done.
mmd - on 20 Dec 2008
In reply to napalm_life:

This link may be of use

http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
petejh on 29 Dec 2008 - host86-175-35-166.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: Went for a drive around the area to see how the ice is forming, my advice is sharpen your tools and poons because there's going to be climbable ice by the end of the week, and going on what I saw today I'd say there's going to be some routes getting done next week which haven't seen ascents in quite a while.

Most watercourses on the north side of the pass are thinly frozen down to the road, Craig Y Rhaeadr has thin ice top to bottom, Devils Kitchen ice is forming nicely, couldn't see cloggy through the scope because of the haze but I'd assume Black Cleft to be slowly forming unless the inversion is on the cliff.

If the long range model is correct it's going to be sub zero at low levels until the middle of next week, perhaps later.

Game on!
But tread lightly and give it a chance to form eh.
caminoaustral - on 30 Dec 2008
In reply to petejh:
anyone got any updates on ice - anywhere?
ukx on 02 Jan 2009
Hi guys - anyone got any information on Crib Goch at the moment? Might be heading up for an early start tomorrow. Will I need crampons and axes or is it just cold rock?

Thanks in advance!
rowen root - on 02 Jan 2009
In reply to ukx: Well I walked over from Cwm Idwal to Nant Peris yesterday and there was just the odd bit of ice on the path in places,so I think you would probably get away without crampons on Crib Goch. Happy New Year by the way Colin.
In reply to ukx:
> Will I need crampons and axes or is it just cold rock?


On tuesday it was warm rock. There have been temp inversions meaning it was much warmer on the top, than in the pass. Grib Goch was totally dry the whole way. One guy was wearing shorts! I took my hat and gloves off when I got out of Cwm Glas and on to Crib y Ddsgyl.
In reply to TobyA: There could of course be water ice on your chosen descent path though - Miner's Track gets it sometimes - so don't dismiss them completely.
Stone Muppet - on 02 Jan 2009
So is there no water ice around for climbing at the moment?
glasto_mudd - on 02 Jan 2009
In reply to Stone Muppet: Went up the Idwal Stream on Thursday, and it was very wet and generally melting. Some ppl i was with did it the day before too, and they said that it had definitly got alot worse overnight, If the melting continues at the rate it is doing, I'd be supprised if there is anything left by tomorrow.
Jonno on 02 Jan 2009 - user-5af1b002.tcl122.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:

I just met an old climbing partner in Betws y Coed who told me that climbers were swarming all over the ice in Llanberis and Ogwen ? It's very very cold so I'll take him at his word.
I met three guys rock climbing at the Cyrau. It's certainly dry enough for proper climbing !
airbournegrapefruit on 02 Jan 2009
In reply to All: If anyone is going climbing tomorrow and has space for one extra please give me an email. I have all my own gear, full rack, ropes, car etc....
bullybones - on 02 Jan 2009
In reply to glasto_mudd:
Well, as I've been checking this thread all week I thought I'd stick my oar in; nice weather and not much ice, except for good skating at Pen-yr-wotsit-down-from-Pen-y-Pass. Water ice generally thin and thawing today in Idwal; Nameless Stream brittle and/or thawing but climbable; plenty of folk on Idwal Stream plus the odd team on Central Route. Slim pickings in the Nameless Cwm. Sharpened tools an asset. Best stay away and wait for things to improve, I'd say.
jim jones on 02 Jan 2009
In reply to Stone Muppet:
> So is there no water ice around for climbing at the moment?
Sergeants Gully is OK, LH Parsley has excellent ice (2nd Jan). Central Icefall, Cascade etc & Face Route are still not quite ready, although someone bold could probably climb them! Infidelity, Sinister & Waterslide are nowhere to be seen. I did see someone on the way up to Sinister today, I think they must have been wearing their very best rose tinteds though.

devilman - on 03 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Lots of folks on Sergents Gully,all having a excellent time.As Jim said Parlsy Fern was very pleasant.
Gary
Misha - on 04 Jan 2009
Conditions on Saturday:

Just below freezing, some lines in (details below), others building.

Idwal Stream in ok conditions, lots of people on it (there were about 15 people already on when we started around 10.30 and there were still more people coming up behind; however it was wide enough not to feel too congested); we were soloing and leaders of roped teams didn't seem to be putting in many screws but the ice seemed thick enough in many placed for screws. A bit of water came out over the ice but mostly was bubbling away underneath so you could stay pretty dry. Ice has formed all the way to the top of the stream.

Central Route to the right of Idwal Stream looked in decent condition and a couple of teams were doing it but we didn't look at it closely.

The Screen has built up nicely, though ideally needs a bit more on the second pitch - the first pitch, including the steepest part of the route, was very nice though and there was enough ice for shorter screws and possibly longer ones as well in places.

The Ramp looked thinner but possibly doable, didn't look at closely though.

The Curtain is building, as is The Devil's Appendix, but neither are quite ready yet.

So assuming it stays cold there are at least three climbs in - Idwal Stream, Central Route and The Screen.

Great day out!
ads.ukclimbing.com
The Bushman on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to Misha: Useful thank you. I fear though that the the easier routes will be peppered to bits and the better routes may be climbed before they are 'mature' and loose the chance to fatten up...

Can I be so bold as to ask others not to top rope/attempt the steeper ice falls when thay are still thin/partly formed?
timjones - on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to The Bushman:
> (In reply to Misha) Useful thank you. I fear though that the the easier routes will be peppered to bits and the better routes may be climbed before they are 'mature' and loose the chance to fatten up...
>
> Can I be so bold as to ask others not to top rope/attempt the steeper ice falls when thay are still thin/partly formed?

Alternatively a thaw may arrive while everyone is fannying about waiting for perfection ;)

stevev on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Seems like if it is only going to last a few days then waiting around for perfection isn't going to happen. People want to climb ice, not sit there watching it grow
mmd - on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Idwal is getting good. Ice good on many routes. A friend of mine has done 6 routes in Idwal today. Hopefully he will report later
RichieB on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to Misha:
Report from Sunday:
Idwal Stream as you described it - screws solid with water underneath.
Central Route is in good condition, although I had to tie off the screws I placed. Add a grade (probably).
Ramp is fine.
Screen is formed and I reckon the Curtain might be OK.
The Devil's Appendix needs another 20 feet to hit the deck.

Cheers
Rich
RichieB on 04 Jan 2009
mmd - on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Just noticed this has been updated http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
bullybones - on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
The Pass: Sergeant's Gully and Parsley Fern LH yesterday...thunky ice over flowing water low down giving way to very brittle water ice and well-frozen turf high up. Only one other team out! Craig-y-Rhaeadr thinly iced. N side streams forming.

Today very overcast then cloudy, but still sub-zero, and snow falling in the slate quarries this afternoon.
petejh on 04 Jan 2009 - host86-175-35-166.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mmd:
> Just noticed this has been updated http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/


Eh?? What do you mean 'I just noticed this has been updated' ?

That's your blog page.






mmd - on 04 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

No it is not, this is mine user name not that chaps
vincentvega - on 05 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

anyone been out today, Monday??
JDSwain - on 05 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: I ran up into Idwal today, and had a good look around at the routes and spoke to most of the people that were out. Idwal stream, Central Gully, The Ramp and The Screen were all climbed today and i heard no complaints over conditions. South Gully is still laking a bit at the bottom with thin ice and water flowing. Another route on the far side of the kitchen was also done, don't know its name but its over beyond the appendix (which isn't in!). Routes up in the nameless cwm are ok as well from all accounts, tower slabs and tower gully were climbed on saturday and are still in i beleive. I also stuck my head into the staircase and it looked as if there was some fun to be had in there aswell.

I got up there at bout 3pm and things were still cold and well frozen, the path was sheet water ice and horrendous to run on, i'm now the proud owner of a munched right knee!

Hopw this helps.
katie75 - on 05 Jan 2009
In reply to vincentvega: im off there again tomorrow to introduce dave to it!
should be a good day i hope.
may try to do a couple of smaller routes but i'll see when i get in there.
:-)
McGuinness - on 05 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Went to have a look today. There were quite a few people climbing, and the ice looked pretty solid. Cold night tonight, so I'd expect it to be better tomorrow
Mike Peacock on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Was out on the Nantlle Ridge today; perfect clarity. Coming down through the Prince of Wales quarry at the head of Cwm Pennant there was an impressive little ice fall. I'll have photos up in a few hours.
mr mills - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Frozen solid today ! Even Ice Skaters on Llyn Idwal !
FrankBooth - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
any news on the biggies... devil's appendix & aber falls?
Jonno on 06 Jan 2009 - user-5af1b002.tcl122.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to mr mills:
> (In reply to napalm_life)
>
> Frozen solid today ! Even Ice Skaters on Llyn Idwal !>>

First time I've ever seen ice skaters on the little lake at Bod Petrual, Clocaenog Forest.

mr mills - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to Jonno:

Loads of people walking on Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen ! Llyn Ogwen is solid people walk right across, mind you it`s only 4mtrs at it`s deepest. Did not have my camera with me today or I would have posted a photo of the skaters on Llyn Idwal !
Mike Peacock on 06 Jan 2009
ads.ukclimbing.com
Mike Peacock on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to mr mills:
> (In reply to Jonno)
>
> Loads of people walking on Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen ! Llyn Ogwen is solid people walk right across, mind you it`s only 4mtrs at it`s deepest.

Actually, it's 11m at its deepest, off the rocks on the west shore.
mr mills - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:

I think you mean 11ft which is actually just over 3mtrs !
Mike Peacock on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to mr mills: No, I don't.

The figure is from Geraint Roberts excellent "The Lakes of Eryri". Worth buying if you see a copy.
mr mills - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:

Llyn Idwal might be 11mtrs, but Llyn Ogwen is only 11ft ! I`ll do a proper search later ok ! If anybode else can confirm what TC says is correct please feel free to reply and prove me wrong :)
brynski - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

went to cwm silyn today. it's all frozen but not a great volume of ice. unfortunately theres just no snowpack to feed anything. we just managed to climb widow of the web but it was pretty thin. there looked to be a reasonable amount of ice in the amphitheater gully area, and bed rock gully and mask of death had ice but didn't get close enough to see how much. that sums up the state of cwm silyn at the moment. hope this helps.
ben b - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: That is indeed a magnificent little book - a fine mix of history, mythology, natural history, industrial archaeology, sociology and a few other ~ologies too. Especially the story about the farmer near Betws who used to blast away at the passing Luftwaffe with his 12-bore...

B
Duane - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
aside from the obviously important issue of depth of the cwm...
what condition is yr wdffa / tryfan in???
many thanks
Duane - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

;-p
Mike Peacock on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to mr mills: Aye, Llyn Ogwen is 3m. I'm not meaning to start an argument, the book may well be wrong but a quick google reveals no answer :)
mr mills - on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to Duane:

Depth of of the Cwm !!!! Do you really mean depth of the Cwm ?

What condition is yr WDFFA !!!!!!!!!!

sutty on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:

I seem to remember that Llyn Ogwen is only around 10ft deep from the back of my mind.

Aha, found a reference;
http://www.snowdoniaguide.com/llyyn_ogwen.html
Ralfy on 06 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Dont know about yr wyddfa but was in kitchen today and took these pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/34087975@N02/3174564297/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34087975@N02/3174562757/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34087975@N02/3174559713/





ps its defo 9.9999999999999999999999 ft actually
DaveNW - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Thinking of going Cwm Cneifion tomorrow, anyone got the latest on the conditions?
Duane - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to Ralfy:
thanks for the help.
does anyone know where the snowline starts?
How high up before you get good consistency?
is most of the rest ice?
ta
Snowdonia Adventures - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to mr mills:
> (In reply to Duane)
>
> Depth of of the Cwm !!!! Do you really mean depth of the Cwm ?
>
> What condition is yr WDFFA !!!!!!!!!!



Haha, calm down mills :)

Duane its Yr Wyddfa.

Cheers
Mark H
Ento - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to DaveNW:

Hi Dave, I,m planning on going to Wales ( Ogwen area ) tomorrow 08/01, don,t suppose you are looking for someone to climb with????
If you want to dicuss call me on 07779 647 977.

Cheers

Mike
DaveNW - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to Ento:

Hi Mike, would love to say yes but I'm only a novice at winter climbing and my mate is taking me tomorrow to show me the ropes.

If I take to it OK and the conditions stay for a bit then I may be up for it another day, will keep you posted.

Might see you up there if your around.

Dave.
gethin_allen on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
I'm off to north wales this weekend coming and after a taste of winter climbing on ben nevis last week I'd love to have a go in north wales as it would be a shame to be there when everything is in condition and not be able to climb anything.
Unfortunately I've nobody to climb with and not the skill or experience to start leading/soloing stuff. Would anyone here be looking at climbing something reasonably easy and be willing to have me join hem for a route? I've got my own axes, crampons, boots, personal gear, rock gear, but no dry treated ropes or ice gear.
It's a long shot i know but worth a punt i thought.
Gethin.
stevefromstoke - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: dont get excitied too excited +7 by sunday (metcheck)
Nigel Modern on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to stevefromstoke: At +7 in Llanberis ice might just survive from my experience...
mynyddresident - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to Cwm cneifion conditons query:

Went up after soloing Idwal stream yest, two fellas on Clogwyn Du but it seemed more like rock climbing with tools. Couldn't see much in the way of ice in the Y branch for example. Plenty of easy streams in though.

As for Idwal, pretty good. Thawing today but we got in early and climbed Devils Cellar and the Left hand column (direct?) line up The Screen. Did end up with an armpit full of water for my ambition though.

Glad to see people making the most of it :)
mmd - on 07 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Those routes on Glogwyn Ddu are modern mixed routes and thats another major aspect of N Wales winter climbing. N Wales is not all about ice.
mynyddresident - on 07 Jan 2009
Maybe there was some ice, but couldn't see much. It's a fine line though eh?
mmd - on 08 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

News on the last few days has been updated

http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/

Cheers

Looks like its all going to get windy and wet ?
JDSwain - on 08 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: The ice was on its way out yesterday in Cwm Idwal, was a afir bit of flowing water under the ice and at times it was plating quite badly. Still an awesome day out though!
FrankBooth - on 08 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
sounds like idwal's warming up - anyone know if the pass is likely to be better this coming w/e?
Fatclimber - on 08 Jan 2009
In reply to gethin_allen:

I could be up for something. You have mail.
petejh on 08 Jan 2009 - host86-175-216-184.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to Fatclimber: It's looking like the lower level stuff is thawing out now the temps have risen. If I was looking to climb some ice I'd check out some routes at higher elevation which may be going through some freeze thaw before they melt out during next weeks warmer temps. Stuff like Boomerang Gully area (II - III) on Cloggy, Tower Slabs (III) in Cwm Cneifion, Ice Fall Gully area (IV) on the Black Ladders, Parsley Fern (I) all these areas and others I've not mentioned should provide something worth doing.
If you don't go you won't know.
KatieEmily on 08 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Heading over on Friday evening, any news on conditions gratefully received. Cheers.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 08 Jan 2009
Just got back from a trip in to Idwall, didnt climb just went for a mooch about after a rescue, temps were around 3c in the cwm I would say that most of the lower level (not grade) routes will still give a decent climb if you go very early tomorrow morning and take advantage of the forecasted very low temps at the start of the day.

As Pete mentions, the long range forecast is for much milder and windier weather over the weekend and warmer well in to the next couple of weeks, but hey, things do change. Stay high for the best chances.

Cheers
Mark H
mmd - on 09 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Updated - Hope it helps for weekend

http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
Simon Panton not registered on 09 Jan 2009 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to mmd: There's an enticing pic of The Screen from yesterday in the latest Ground Up news report:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=226

Get it while it lasts folks!
mmd - on 09 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Just seen local North Wales forecast. They are saying frost overnight -2/-4 at sea level in North Wales and still cold on saturday morning / afternoon


jim jones on 09 Jan 2009
In reply to mmd: Some routes in Idwal in great condition (Friday 9th Jan), The Screen, Central Route, The Ramp & Devils Cellar are all in condition. South Gully, Appendix etc nowhere near. Just posted some photo's in my gallery, I'd recomend being early tomorrow!
vincentvega - on 10 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Jims advice was spot on.

been out in Idwal cwm today, Great conditions early on, but routes were getting very wet very quickly as the day has progressed.

We climbed the screen early on in good nic, and the ramp which was wet and thin near the top.

Teams on all the usual suspects today, and the curtain even had at least 1 ascent with a great lead!!

Not seen tomorrows forecast so not sure whats gonna happen, but again id be early!
mmd - on 11 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Its very grim here in N Wales, very wet and very windy and very warm.
Ian McNeill - on 11 Jan 2009
In reply to mmd:
now then the rivers will be up !
Jonno on 11 Jan 2009 - user-5af1b002.tcl122.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:

Rapid rise in temperatures and a return to warm,wet and windy shit !
JDSwain - on 11 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Yep, its definately shite outside
Flicka - on 11 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

:-(

Someone tell me it will all be back to winter wonderland in two weeks time? (Am planning a trip to the lakes or snowdonia the weekend after next...)
Derek Kenyon - on 12 Jan 2009
In reply to vincentvega:

Yes we where also out early on Saturday in Idwall, set off 7.15am and still behind 6 lads on Central route, with 3 teams behind us.
Well worth doing though, nearer 4 I thought. We put in a short pitch higher up which was worth doing which lead to a dead end ab off. Do you know whether the top pitch of Grecian gets fully formed or do lads dry tool to top corner? it look a great pitch. No doubt most of the Ice will have gone by now.

Regards

Derek
Ian McNeill - on 12 Jan 2009
In reply to Derek Kenyon:

Need full winter snow as well as ice to be in full form condition...
Derek Kenyon - on 12 Jan 2009
In reply to Ian McNeill:

Thanks Ian

Another one to add to the list, at this rate I be an old man before I get around to them all. Still I'll enjoy trying.

Thanks Derek

P.s Did Lloer Spur before Christmas in Snowy conditions,great route with some bold climbing, well worth the effort.
DaveNW - on 13 Jan 2009
Thinking of going up Idwal tomorrow is anything in?

It's looking a lot warmer than last week!

Was hoping to do Idwal stream then maybe something else.
vincentvega - on 13 Jan 2009
In reply to DaveNW:

you'l be lucky!
Anglesey Pete on 13 Jan 2009 - 172.24.16.144 [194.74.238.60]
In reply to napalm_life: wwwbaggy.blogspot.com
Snowdonia Adventures - on 13 Jan 2009
In reply to DaveNW:
Rain, rain, rain and some high winds. No snow, no ice, great for kayak/open boaters at the moment.

Cheers
Mark H
mux - on 13 Jan 2009
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures: HIgh winds ...high winds ..

on Sat me and two mate were blown left right up and down ..not seen anything like that sort of strength in north wales before. My legs are still sore from the walk out.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 13 Jan 2009
In reply to mux: Yep, was working a night nav session Gallt yr Ogof area on Saturday night, also had tired legs on Sunday. Gusts to 60mph in Cwm Tregalan on Sunday.

Got hail stone shower here at the moment, supposed to be a frost tonight/tomorrow am then back to wet and warm.

Cheers
Mark H
Snowdonia Adventures - on 13 Jan 2009
In reply to mux: Looking at the long range forecast I will go out on a limb, perhaps take a trip to Ladbrokes and bet on some snow for N.Wales mountain areas around 19-20th Jan!

Mark H
DaveNW - on 13 Jan 2009
Thanks for the feedback guy's looks like I'll be giving it a miss!
Jonno on 14 Jan 2009 - user-5af1b002.tcl122.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:

Strange weather. Woke up to white fields and icy lanes. A drive over the top reveals that the snow has returned to the Snowdonia range with the snow line looking like 2500' ish.

Feels colder than it has for some days now. Not sure what's going on out there ?
Mike Peacock on 14 Jan 2009
In reply to Jonno: Part of me is tempted to take a wander and find out. But then I see the winds forecast and think I'll just stay in the warm!
mmd - on 17 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

All very warm and not snow.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 17 Jan 2009
In reply to mmd: Yup, windy no snow as yet, get braced for some heavy rain and high winds later.Theres an advisory of a low risk of heavy snow for Monday and Tuesday.

http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/uk_forecast_warnings.html
mux - on 17 Jan 2009
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures: any further news ? will it be worth a punt ?
petejh on 17 Jan 2009 - host86-175-216-184.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to mux: Forecast to be a wild and stormy week until next saturday when it looks like the winds may calm down for long enough to get out before the next front comes through. If it dumps a substantial load of snow this week, which some forecasts are suggesting, then mixed climbing conditions could be a go on the weekend depending on what the temps do.
Should be a good week for indoor walls.


KellyKettle - on 17 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Wind strong enough to blow people off the crags, or indeed onto their face and down the road. Rained several inches this afternoon alone, the weather is dismal(unless you're a paddler too).
Zoltan on 17 Jan 2009 - 79-72-118-61.dynamic.dsl.as9105.com
Hi Guys,

reading this topic I wondered if I could join to any of you for a weekend ice climbing ?

i live in southampton, it takes a reasonable 2.5 hours train trip up to north wales. At the moment I have no buddy to climb with (I moved recently)but I really keen on starting to discover the winter climbing opportunities in the UK (while I still can this year).

I've got 1 week swiss glacier experience, 1 week in the Slovakian tatra and im going for 1 week ice climbing to Italy in 2 weeks. Despite this, im quite a novice in winter climbing.

from mon-fri I'm stuck in an office and I really need to get out and meet like-minded people otherwise im gonna go insane here :/
rowen root - on 18 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Blue skies sunshine some light snow on the mountains above about 2000ft. Lots of slate on the the streets.
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mux - on 19 Jan 2009
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures:
> (In reply to mux) Looking at the long range forecast I will go out on a limb, perhaps take a trip to Ladbrokes and bet on some snow for N.Wales mountain areas around 19-20th Jan!
>
> Mark H

Should have taken that up myself ....
mux - on 19 Jan 2009
In reply to mux: we were out on Idwell sunday and it was bare. Rock routes in big boots, good day out though.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 19 Jan 2009
In reply to mux:
> (In reply to Snowdonia Adventures)
> [...]
>
> Should have taken that up myself ....

I wish I had gone to the bookies and put money down on my forecast as right at this moment one hell of a snow storm has kicked off!!! heavy wet snow sticking almost instantly, temps of 1c at 235m.

IainRUK - on 19 Jan 2009
In reply to mux:
> (In reply to mux) we were out on Idwell sunday and it was bare. Rock routes in big boots, good day out though.

I ran from Capel to Nant via a traverse of the Glyders yesterday afternoon, gusty but not too bad, not much snow, but was chatting to a few guys who had done a fair old day of about 3-4 routes including Idwal slabs and Cneifon arete, and they said they'd done a bit of a down climb of a winter route in the continuation.

Icey above about 750m.

Snow fell last night and the snow level in Nant Peris was about 700m when I left for work.
Jonno on 19 Jan 2009 - user-5443eea5.lns1-c9.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:

Looking out my window right now and it's snowing big flakes. It doesn't feel very cold though. Expect it will turn to sleet soon ?
JDSwain - on 19 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Its snowing a fair bit in Bangor, large wet snow, big fluffy stuff shooting past the window. Its all good though, as long as it gets climbable by thursday after exams i'll be happy!
mynyddresident - on 19 Jan 2009
Big fat 'Whistler' sized flakes falling now.
I went for a stroll this morning, lots of fresh unconsolidated snow about but ground not frozen. Report and photo here: http://www.expeditionguide.com/blog.htm
groovejunkie - on 20 Jan 2009
In reply to Rob Johnson expeditionguide.com: Assuming it's not too windy tomorrow morning, any idea what the conditions on Tryfan are like at the moment? Cheers.
gingerdave13 - on 20 Jan 2009
In reply to Rob Johnson expeditionguide.com: hmm interesting,, fingers crossed for the weekend
In reply to groovejunkie: I drove down the Ogwen Valley on my way home and it looked nice and white but thats all I can add really. The paths will get compressed nicely so will probably be icey.
Mike Peacock on 20 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: I went out onto Pen yr Helgi Du via Ffynnon Llugwy. A bit of ice on the ridge on the ascent, and lots of deep snow on the summit. Photos soon...
KellyKettle - on 20 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: Beat me to it, Thanks for a great day out.
petejh on 20 Jan 2009 - host86-175-216-184.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: Walked into the Black Ladders today to get photos for a crag topo for the winter wiki site. It's looking good, with more snow forecast for the next 2 days and then thaw/freeze temps on thursday and friday I foresee good snow climbing conditions for the weekend, except for the strong winds that is. Turf wasn't frozen under the insulating snow though.
Mike Peacock on 20 Jan 2009
geoff b on 20 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Check out wwwbaggy.blogspot for the latest info & suggestions; so long as its stays cold over the next few nights there will stil be things to do at the weekend.
geoff b
petejh on 21 Jan 2009 - host86-175-216-184.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: There's now a photo-topo for the Black Ladders on the welsh winter wiki: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/

To whet the appetite for the weekend :)
Simon Caldwell - on 22 Jan 2009
In reply to petejh:
The webcams this morning look very unpromising, last night's rain must have been pretty extensive?
IainRUK - on 22 Jan 2009
In reply to Toreador: Yeah, I ran up the pass last night, got as far as pont cromlech when I turned back, waterfalls raging onto the road, road flooding. This morning there is significantly less snow, Elidir was almost bare, but there was still some in Cwm Glas Mawr, but big thaw.
Snowdonia Adventures - on 22 Jan 2009
In reply to petejh: Had a look at the topo yesterday mate, nice work. Do you need any kit taking back to Canada? give me a bell.

Cheers
Mark
Dr.Strangeglove - on 23 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Anybody take a gander today?
Wibble Wibble - on 24 Jan 2009
In reply to Dr.Strangeglove:

That's what I was wondering. The lakes has has a respectable dump, what about snowdonia?
Dr.Strangeglove - on 24 Jan 2009
In reply to Wibble Wibble:
to partially answer my own question, headed into cwm cnefion this morning, snow starting from about the foot of the Gribin ridge, fairly good coverage at the cwm lip and improving the higher you climbed. but not a great depth except in drifts. some avalanche debris around the foot of tower gully. followed a team up hidden gully and that was in ok condition, a bit powdery in places. saw a team on clogwyn ddu. suspect low chance of frozen turf. good fun on the top of the glyderau. descended by the scree line right of bristly ridge, quite powdery snow here with some trainer clad folk looking very insecure.
snow line up a bit from the morning, looked to be cover worth investigating in cwm ffynon lloer etc but did not go and have a look.
HTH
In reply to Dr.Strangeglove: any idea what its like thismorning?
Dr.Strangeglove - on 25 Jan 2009
In reply to carrot_boy:
dunno, there are however 5 empty wine bottles downstairs and we sampled the sloe gin.
Mike Peacock on 25 Jan 2009
In reply to Dr.Strangeglove: Looks like the snow has retreated again. I was going to head out but the forecast wasn't enticing and the webcams just showed rain.
alana on 25 Jan 2009 - 51ob.scansafe.net
In reply to napalm_life:
Spent first rate day on S. yesterday

Cloud at 800m, snow conditions super with 8 to 10 cms from 880m upwards , some drifting but NO wind and the conditions allowed sun to break thro occasionally.
Most walkers on S , so other parts of the massif were faisrly quite.
Great day out .
Mike Peacock on 25 Jan 2009
In reply to alana: S? Does that perhaps mean Snowdon?
Mike Peacock on 25 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:
> (In reply to Dr.Strangeglove) Looks like the snow has retreated again. I was going to head out but the forecast wasn't enticing and the webcams just showed rain.

Sorry, that can be ignored! I've just been for a wander and there's plenty of snow left on Llewelyn, Dafydd and the Black Ladders. Only had my film SLR with me though, so no photos sorry.
In reply to napalm_life: Just got home from a walk up into Boclwyd, theres plenty of snow up there, although the ground beneath isn't frozen.
Upto about 1-1.5 metres deep in places!
Strong winds, and as we were leaving looked like clouds coming in from the Nantfrancon, so could bring further snow? or maybe just rain!?
tobykeep - on 25 Jan 2009
In reply to carrot_boy:

Some action on Crib Goch today, have a look in my gallery for a shot of Baggy and Adam on Reade's Route.

Crib Goch felt like the living end in high winds.
Nicholas Livesey on 25 Jan 2009
In reply to tobykeep: Just looked at your shot and gave it 5. Much kudos Toby :-)
Simon Caldwell - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:
We did Eastern Gully (Black Ladders) on Saturday, all very snowy and white, but conditions a bit rubbish really. First icefall pitch didn't exist so traversed in. Snow soft throughout, wet low down. What little ice there was, was mostly brittle. Ground unfrozen. Took left branch at the top as white branch was full of cruddy snow. Some good neve for the last 20m or so. Great fun!

Loads more fresh snow Saturday night, unfortunately by the time the weather cleared on Sunday afternoon we'd already made the decision to go to the wall and so missed what would have been a nice day for a walk.

GrahamD - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Toreador:

Should have come to Tremadog - bright and sunny from about 11.00 onwards on Sunday.
Simon Caldwell - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to GrahamD:
Still raining Llanberis area when we got to the Beacon at 11.30. When we left just after 2, the mountains looked stunning, would have been a great day for a walk or even maybe a ski
gingerdave13 - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Toreador: aye, was out both days sat long 'un from nant peris (north), second was a delayed start as we ho'd and hum'd about the weather finally decided to move about 11 ish and went to rhyd ddu started a walk about 12 ish and had glorious sunshine and a great view of snowdon for the rest of the day!

it was just bloody cold with the wind! brrrr

north of y garn was looking good.
Tall Clare - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Toreador:

the weather cleared by about 11.30 yesterday - lucky, as we'd just arrived to wander up Tryfan. A lot of snow up there - lovely stuff! We bumslid, sorry, glissaded most of the way back down.
Mike Peacock on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Tall Clare: The mountains are looking absolutely stunning today. Blue skies, warm sun, snow. Alas, I was busy this morning so couldn't get out.
richprideaux - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:

Enough to make it worthwhile me binning work on Wednesday for whatever is left?
Tall Clare - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:

it really was amazing up there yesterday - beautiful weather. Blue skies, clear out to the coast...
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richprideaux - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Tall Clare:

I was running an exercise in North-East Wales, whilst looking wistfully to the West. Comments like that are not helpful :-)
gingerdave13 - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Tall Clare: just a bit blowy eh!

we kept on looking at snowdon waiting for it to clear - finally did at about half 2/3 ish was a great sight to see
Mike Peacock on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to shingsowa: It depends what you want to do; walk or climb? The forecast says bright, cold and showery for Wednesday, so it may be prime walking/scrambling weather. I might get out tomorrow so can update then.
Tall Clare - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to gingerdave13:

oo no - we had two or three gusts blowing spindrift around, and that was it - it was pretty balmy on top.

barely any wind, blue skies, lots of snow, not many people around - it was hell, I tell you :-)
richprideaux - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Probably walking, doubt i can rustle up a partner for then anyway. Possibly something easy and rocky if scrambling. Any updates appreciated!

Ta
gingerdave13 - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Tall Clare: wha? how bizzare - i was only t'other side of snowdon from you and wind speed was high.. y'wouldnae have wanted to hang about long in that.

still - it really didn't feel like wales at all.. (apart from sat night)
Simon Caldwell - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to shingsowa:
Keep an eye on the met office forecast, they've currently got a weather advisory out for a possible 30mm rain in Wales on Wednesday.
richprideaux - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Toreador:
Bugger. Damn you once again Metcheck!

Will literally keep a weather-eye on it then...
JDSwain - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Has anyone actually been out climbing and therefor able to make helpful comments about conditions?
terragait - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to gingerdave13:

Agree twas a cracking day Sunday, was messing around Banana Gully Y Garn, lots of luverly snow, strong gusts and spindrift from crest off NE ridge. Although a bit soft gullies chocked full of snow inbetween Y Garn and Foel Goch, cornices well formed but showing evidence of sagging with fracture lines from above. If they are still there Mon/Tues, Beware.
As usual Y Garn summit plateau was iced up would not recommend without crampons, depending on daily conditions.
petejh on 26 Jan 2009 - host86-175-216-184.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to Swain16: For the last four or five days you could take your pick from any one of the hundred or so gully climbs in Snowdonia and had some fun, same goes for mixed climbs not requiring frozen turf or ice (because it 'aint in).
The next few days until thurs/fri are going to be warmer and wetter than lately, the snow will diminish but shouldn't disappear entirely, and the good news is there's a large continental high bringing a mass of cold air from the east forecast to hit wales around fri/sat and remaining in place all next week. All snow still left on the hills by this friday is going to be bomber neve by the weekend.
Neil Anderson - on 26 Jan 2009
In reply to Swain16:

Yep - brilliant day - blue skies, no wind, alpine like.

Did routes in nameless cwm - snow from 600m, with breakable crust. climbale neve from 800m. did tower gully, another guy came up the face to the left of this. hidden gully was in too ( but steep top out for soling!)

Curved gully was also ascended and the broken ground on the side of senior ridge grade 1-2.

Also went over to llyn bochlwyd - where there was less snow and not as firm. Hard work up col gully. Although the central gully ( miain gully i think) looked ok if a little lean.

Some snwo melt during the day (especially on sunny aspects eg Y garn) but still loads around.

Pen ole wyn and carneddau had alot of snow too. ( not visited)

No sign of the threaten weather when I left at 4.30pm. so if you have a great aunt with a dicky heart aka the guide book... get out there....

for general mountaineering it is fantastic!
Anglesey Pete on 26 Jan 2009 - client-86-27-187-89.popl.adsl.virgin.net
As recommended previously: http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
Snowdonia Adventures - on 27 Jan 2009
There was an avalanche on Y Garn, Bananna Gully slope, last Wednesday with one walker caught up in it, A small section of cornice broke away resulting in the walker losing his camera, ripping his jacket and suffering some bruising as he was hurled down the slope to stop in the rocky area just before the drop into Bananna Gully.

The guy was lucky and this should remind us all that where ever the right conditions exist a slope can avalanche, even in Wales.

Cheers
Mark H
rob s on 27 Jan 2009 - gateway.spgroup.co.uk
In reply to Snowdonia Adventures:
'Even in Wales' A stark reminder after Glencoe on Saturday. Chap i met on Sunday also had a look at the underside of the cornice on Bananna and gave it a wide berth, well soft. Grade 1 Winter but owing to it's presentation and the prevailing westerlys It always seems to be one of the quickest cornices to build after a dump of snow.

Rob S
Mike Peacock on 28 Jan 2009
tom.e - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Is there anything left? What's it looking like for the weekend?
IainRUK - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to tom.e: Cwm Glas Mawr area was stil quite white this morning, so there's a chance with temps dropping at the weekend of some routes I reckon. Been quite a thaw this week though, our house mainly looks at the southern side of the glyders and there's almost no snow left.
Simon Panton not registered on 28 Jan 2009 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to IainRUK: A mate of mine did Ladies Gully on the Trinity Face on Monday. He said it had really good hard snow.
IainRUK - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to Simon Panton not registered: Yeah monday looked the best day, sadly had to work. Was going to run up into Cwm Glas Mawr tonight and have a look. Todays a cracking day.
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Anonymous on 28 Jan 2009 - 85-189-161-254.drumbeat.managedbroadband.co.uk
tom.e - on 28 Jan 2009
IainRUK - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to tom.e: http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/

Went up tonight, some of the gully's may just be OK, but a lot has gone over the past few days. Faces were stripped.
David Hooper - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Just back from a walk over Siabod - quite a lot of rock hard neve even on open exposed slopes on the Plas y Brenin side, with the path filled in right down to the first fence and style- we could look across at the Trinity Face on Snowdon and I reckon that up to this evening at least, conditions on Trinity Face would be very good. Not seen a forcast for the next couple of days mind, but still looks like a lot of good hard consolidated neve around.
IainRUK - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to David Hooper: Yeah I thought that in Cwm Glas, what was there above 900m or so should be OK.

Tempted for a 3000ers run on Sunday, looking a cracking day for it.
David Hooper - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Just watching BBC forcast now - its aint gonna get significasnly warmer 2moro so I reckon Trinity Face should stay cold and in nick - Damn - Im working at the climbing wall for 2 days :o(

I reckon routes would deffo go on Triniuty Face 2moro so good luck
David Hooper - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK:

Hi Iain

Must catch up soon - not seen you for a while - a few of us been going to a pub quiz in beris on a Sun eve - surreal but fun ;o)

Ive started running again(very gently) after a couple of years off with bad back - really enjoying the (shortish) runs so far and no injuries except my dropped arch - definately noticing the fitness on normal hill days - all good ;o)

Chewwie sends big licks
IainRUK - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to David Hooper: Not been out in Llanberis for a while, Heights should open soon, or is it already? we're still waiting on the Vaynol, worried what it's going to be like. Should serve food again in a few weeks.

Good on getting the running going, we've had a cracking winter so far really, can't complain, had far far worse.

Hows Chewie going? Ours have been living all over the show due to house renovations and weren't happy at all, now back in nant peris and they are settling down again.
MikeLell - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK: Plenty of good neve on NE face of Crib Goch, climbed that before traversing along the ridge and then down to the Pyg track. Soloed Central Trinity Gulley. Looked like a lot of the gullies on that face had been climbed. Well consolidated neve and should stick around into next week if this low pressure system comes in over the weekend.
IainRUK - on 28 Jan 2009
In reply to MikeLell: What was the ridge like? Icey or pretty clear? Did you need axes and crampons for the ridge? Mainly on the last pinnacle? If we do the 3000ers we'd go back and to from bwlch Coch?

Also what was Crib y Ddysgyl like?

Cheers

MikeLell - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK: short sections of snow on N ridge due to its shaded exposure but the main ridge was free of snow and dry so didnt need winter gear. Didn't pass over Crib y Dysgyl as I cut down to the Pyg track over sun-softened snow (a bit hairy at times) but it looked dry, just like most of Crib Goch.
Rory Shaw - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK: went up crib goch last night to junction with north ridge. Crampons not needed for ascent but really usefull for descent down north ridge! Still good patches of hrad snow around.

Rory
IainRUK - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to The Rorster: Cheers, if we do it we'll drop down from Bwlch Coch, so avoid the E and N ridges, last night that looked like banked snow so we may need gear for that, depends on surf conditions for someone though, but forecast looks good.

Stunning night last night.
Rory Shaw - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK: Lots fo snow on the bwlch goch descent - its pretty hard too so you may need something more than your fell shoes - or hust take up a strong poly bag and you could probably shave a few minutes off your descent!
IainRUK - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to The Rorster: We've got full on crampons for the fell shoes so should be OK. Not sure which way to go, it's quicker to go valley to valley if we do Crib Goch first, but peak to peak is quicker if we go that way on the way down. Weathers looking good though.
mkean - on 29 Jan 2009
Any news on the current conditions?

Mike
IainRUK - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to mkean: Very mild tonight, only ran up as far as cloggy but it's 8-10 degrees up at clogwyn station and that's well over 2000ft, I think nearer 2500ft.

mkean - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK:
Oh dear, I'm guessing the forecast rain is going to wipe out anything that is up there?

IainRUK - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to mkean: May well do, forecast 6 deg at 3000ft tommorrow, heavy rain, but then cold temps over the weekend so some gullies may survive. Doubt there will be much though.
Rory Shaw - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK: Been up today - did a gully up on to the north ridge of crib goch - snow starting to get a little soft! Then followed the ridge to the finger stone - hardly any snow on grib goch - a little more on Crib y Ddysgl. Then popped down the zig zags and traversed onto trinity then up central - loads of snow here but starting to get a little soft - will need a really big thaw to get rid of it all!
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Paul Walley - on 29 Jan 2009
In reply to IainRUK:
we were up on trinity face today,did central. snow was thin out of the gullies. turf wasnt frozen and temps were fairly warm all day.
richprideaux - on 31 Jan 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Anybody back from t'hills with a report yet?
JamesA - on 31 Jan 2009
In reply to shingsowa:
Plenty of sugary snow in the Cwm Cneifion, and even some water ice left on the headwall, but it was too warm today and the buttresses were black. The gullies there might be OK it gets cold enough and the turf freezes tonight. Easy gully has a cornice over it and there have been avalanches or cornice collapses in the cwm - I've never seen that in Wales before.
Mike Peacock on 31 Jan 2009
In reply to JamesA: I've been out on Snowdon. Went into Cwm Glas after some gorge scrambling. Lots of snow, and a few parties on Parsley Fern.

The entire mountain is an ice-rink though, don't go near without axes and crampons. MR were stopping people descending the top of the Llanberis Track if they had no gear. The Ranger Path was much safer.

There were also a few accidents by Glaslyn. Apparently someone was practising arrests and broke a leg, and some girl fell whilst coming down a slope. The Sea King went over so I presume it picked them up.
MikeLell - on 31 Jan 2009
In reply to Paul Walley: Climbed Central Trinity Gulley again on friday mostly in a white out. Snow was softer on lower face but still well consolidated from the spider upwards allowing good buried axe belays. A few thin patches but the route is still easily climbed. Lots of snow on the path desceding from the col between Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain. We camped at Glaslyn that night where temps were only just about zero. Still lots of snow on north facing slopes and this forecast cold snap will help preserve it.
JamesA - on 31 Jan 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Don't suppose you saw if the Trinity gullies were holding much snow or cornices?
MikeLell - on 31 Jan 2009
In reply to JamesA: Left, central and right gullies had plenty of snow. No cornice at the top of our route (central), right gulley has a small cornice and possibly cave gulley.
JamesA - on 31 Jan 2009
In reply to MikeLell:
Cheers, sounds like it will last a while with the current forecast.
Mike Peacock on 01 Feb 2009
Paul Walley - on 01 Feb 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: me and a mate have just been up sinister gully in cwm glas. Bomber neve all the way up, the ice pitch was formed, but thin. came down parsley fern, the cornice at the top seemed to be stable. should be good tomorrow.
Cuillin Calling on 01 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Went up Central Trinity today. Got up really early and started the climb at 8.30am. Very good neve at that time, snow a little sparse low down on the approach but plenty in the gully itself. Turning sugary on top as we descended out at 11-12pm but should last if it stays cold in the next few days. Other parties on Right Hand and Great Gully, would be interested to hear what these were like as they looked thin in places as did Ladies/Cave gullies. Very windy on top and had to crawl the last 50ft.
Anglesey Pete on 01 Feb 2009 - client-86-0-105-145.nrth.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to napalm_life: As I've said before...
http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/

jim jones on 01 Feb 2009
In reply to Diccon:
Great Gully is in superb condition, the chockstones are all bare (as usual) but fun. Didn't come across any "sugary snow". Looks like we could be on for a good week ahead.
cmsg - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Walked the Glyders east to west yesterday. Patchy snow most places, but continuous snow on west-facing slopes. Cramponed up to come down from Glyder Fawr, west side of which was plastered.
Mike Peacock on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to cmsg: The snow is right down to Bangor this morning, and the webcams are looking white!
MikeLell - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: Snow in Aberystwyth too. I wanna go out and play again!
Jonno on 02 Feb 2009 - user-544242d8.l5.c2.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:

White !
cmsg - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: In London. At work. Bugger bugger. Want to go out and play!
matt22 - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to cmsg: I was in north wales all weekend. Had to drive back down last night. So frustrating driving up through pen y pass as everything is starting to ice up and consolidate around me. Back at work now. :(
MikeLell - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Any action today? Is the snow thats just fallen very powdery?
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mynyddresident - on 02 Feb 2009
In Betws it is dumping right now, been snowing for a good two hours without stopping.
Paul Walley - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to MikeLell: Have just been up parsley fern, hardly any new snow in the gully itself, winds done its job and blown it all somewhere else so is still good neve in there. came down llanberis path, and not much new snow there either. ice in cwm glas looked (from afar) like it was getting better.
Dean Scott - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

They say not to go up there atm, avalances etc
climbingspike on 02 Feb 2009 - client-82-2-87-173.manc.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to napalm_life:I made my way up on to crib goch on Sunday. What is usually an obscure decent path from the pinacles down to Upper Cwm Glass Bach was a superb slope of good, hard neve. I've lived here for over 30 years and can't remember snow as good. Parsley fern is totaly complete with a nice cornice, supprizingly there was not a sole on it. I remember days when you had to queue to join the hordes. There was one party in Cental Trinity, most of the routes looked well doable, where was every body? A week ago Snowdon was plasterd, during the week it rained a few times then started to freeze so that the old snow is very very hard. The new snow ontop of this is thought to be creating an avalanch problem but for route forming combined with the very cold temperatures the routes on Snowdon will most likly be in great condition later this week.
In reply to climbingspike: any photos anyone?
climbingspike on 02 Feb 2009 - client-82-2-87-173.manc.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to carrot_boy: I tried to take some with my phone but the battery died at that moment, it realy was cold in the wind so that probably killed it.
DaveNW - on 02 Feb 2009
Thinking of heading out on Wednesday.

Anyone on any advice of best routes to go for with the current conditions?
Wanting something grade II/III.

Was originally thinking of Trinity but not sure now, after hearing the talk of avalanche danger!

Any comments/advice appreciated.
David Hooper - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Im heading up 2moro for a look around - last week I encountered rock hard neve and with all this fresh stuff being blown around, Im sure that there will be loaded slab on a hard slidey neve base - so caution I think.
IainRUK - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to David Hooper: Be interesting to see how much new snow has fallen. I ran over the pass tonight and there was only an inch or 2 on the ground but it was still falling, don't think we are getting as much as other parts of the country.
Mike Peacock on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to IainRUK: I'm out tomorrow but not sure whether I'll be up high or just having a spot of mine exploration in the Gwydir Forest. I shall see what the morrow brings.
IainRUK - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: Won;t get out tommorrow, Tuesday is our clubs legendary hill reps night, joy of joys running up and down the roads out of llanberis towards Snowdon and Eilio, YHA, waterfall road, such a brilliant session :-)
David Hooper - on 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:

Ill probably be in Betws sometime in afternoon if you fancy meeting up for a coffee - be good to put a face to the name
07801235051
Cheers
David ;o)
Angusthewestie on 03 Feb 2009
Hi,

I'm free on Wednesday and would love to go out for a walk on Snowdon, but am on my own ... everyone else at work, poor sods!!! I'm experienced in winter walking and have all the necessary kit (which I can also use). Can anyone recommend a route? Pyg and Llanberis easiest access for me, but given all the warnings and potential avalanche risk, any suggestions gratefully received. (Zigzags?)

I wouldn't normally think twice about going out on my own in snowy conditions, but this week definitely seems to be one warranting caution.

Thanks!
Mike Peacock on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to David Hooper

Cheers David, might take you up on that offer depending what we get up to (and also what time we need to get home).
IainRUK - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to judith_sw: Why not Eilio ridge? Always a good option in bad weather. Up Eilio, either up the N or NE ridge, then along the ridge over Foel Gron, Foel Goch, then either down the N ridge of Foel Goch or down Maesgwm, or over Cynghorion and pick up a small track from Blwch Cwm brwynog that descends cwm brwynog to the bunk house.

On Snowdon the Rangers the safest option, the Pyg has issues at the zig zags and llanberis the section above clogwyn station can be dangerous.
gavinj - on 03 Feb 2009
Anyone interested in North Wales Thursday, Snowdon area? I will drive up early Thursday morning from near Wolverhampton and back to Wolves that night. Happy to give a lift or meet up in Wales. Thinking of classic grade II/III stuff higher up, which should be in very good condition. With all respect, I'm after someone (or some people) who have done a bit and know what they are doing are that grade. Cheers.
iksander on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Hi, Is Crib Goch viable at the moment? Any reports?

ta
smithee on 03 Feb 2009 - host81-141-96-232.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: Hi all - I'm heading up snowdon too next monday or tuesday with my collie/spaniel X, Patch (roped together though! - would lose hime for sure if not). If you see us say HI!!

Can anyone post who has been up Pyg or miners since Saturday - pics even better. Might have to give those tracks a miss given what people are saying??
pinkie - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to iksander:

its very dangerous at the mo ! 2 brothers were killed at the weekend ... these mountains look beautifull in the snow but dangerous if your not competent enough ! be carefull.
pinkie - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to iksander:


There was a MRT bloke on the news yesterday advising people to keep off Snowdon unless they are experienced...

Ice axes and crampons a necessity...

...but advised experienced climbers to consider whether to climb Snowdon in the current conditions.

"I would strongly recommend that people without a lot of experience and the right equipment don't venture on to the mountain.

"If people are at all unsure they should stay away. More heavy snow is forecast on the mountain."

From http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/north_west/7864422.stm

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iksander on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to pinkie: hi

Thanks for the warnings: have equipment and experience, but sounds like those who involved in the tragedy were well prepared too, so duly noted.

On the other hand we all take calculated risks, so I would still appreciate any first hand reports on where to go or avoid given correct equipment, experience and a knowledge of the risks.

thanks
Duane - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to iksander:
agreed. me too.
Mike Peacock on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: I've been out today. Into Cwm Idwal first, lots of ice around and two groups on Idwal Stream. Scrambled up into Cwm Bochlwyd where the snow was very deep behind the lake. Couldn't see the Main Cliff due to mist. Fantastic day though. Soft snow everywhere. Higher up I suspect an axe and crampons will be vital still. Photos soon.
Mike Peacock on 03 Feb 2009
David Hooper - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Just back from wales - it has the makings of legendary conditions if this keeps up.

Ogwen roadside - my car registered between 0 to -2C. A few icicles at roadside and Llyn Ogwen starting to freeze over.

The tops look like the Cairngorms with clouds of spindrift blowing around.

Snow appeares plentiful but soft and unconsolidated.

The Appendix and the Screen are forming (observed from road) couldnt see Idwal Stream.

Butresses on Tryfan appear to be riming up.

With all the soft snow blowing around I would suggest avoiding the gullies at the moment andf stick to ridges or high up mixed routes.

Think Im gonna have a shot at the Horseshoe 2moro if forcast is OK
Mike Peacock on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to David Hooper: Hi David, sounds like you had a good day too. I text you this morning if you got it; we stayed at Ogwen and had quite a short day, but it was good.

David Hooper - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:
I was doing odd jobs mainly - managed an hours sledding at Betws, but at least Chewwie pulls the sled back up hill - which is nice :o)

You around 2moro - Im bunking off work
Mike Peacock on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to David Hooper: Not tomorrow unfortunately. Shame because it looks like it could be quite a pleasant day.
In reply to napalm_life: Will it still be good on saturday/sunday
(I know you can't see the future, but all predictions welcome!)
rockmonkey1 - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to carrot_boy: i was wondering the same, looked on metcheck, and it looks promising. driving up from cornwall on the sat night after work so any predictions may make the drive less worrying!!
Simon22 on 03 Feb 2009 - 93-97-149-220.zone5.bethere.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:


Did Right Hand Trinity on Snowdon today in filthy weather.......

-7c on the summit.

Lots of new powder snow on the mountain and some deep drifts of up to 30cm.
DaveNW - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Simon22:

Was the snow pack OK?
The guidebook mentions Trinity as being prone to avalanche!

Heading over tomorrow and not sure whether to go Trinity (1st time) or otherwise head over to Idwal.

Any recomendations?
Simon22 on 03 Feb 2009 - 93-97-149-220.zone5.bethere.co.uk
In reply to DaveNW:

I'd say in general on the face there was 2-3 inch of new power covering the neve (which there is lots of above about 850m), with the odd deeper drift.

I was happy climbing it, that said Right Hand is much less prone to avalanche than Central as it is steeper and doesn't have the summit snow bowl above it. I think it would need an almighty dump to get caught out in RH.

gavinj - on 03 Feb 2009
Again, anyone interested in North Wales Thursday, Snowdon area? I can think of some grade II/III routes that would link up giving about 600m of two star routes, and I cant find anyone who's free!!!
DaveNW - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Simon22:

Thanks for the info.
petejh on 03 Feb 2009 - host86-175-35-202.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: Went into Cwm Llafar from Bethesda today to look at conditions on the Black Ladders, I was thinking of climbing there tomorrow but it's not a good place to be right now. There's a significant ammount of snow available for transport today. The winds were strong and from the south and all south facing slopes where I was were being scored to the grass whilst the north sides were obviously getting heavily loaded. Just from digging around on some small lee slopes I was finding up to 30cm windslabs developing.
For the next 24 hours I wouldn't be going near anything that's both north facing and exposed to snow slopes either above or below. So Trinity Face, Black Ladders, back wall of Cwm Cneifion (corner gully - hidden gully) and anywhere else that fits the description.
Plenty of other stuff in condition anyway.
jim jones on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to petejh: Thanks for that, valuable and relevant! I'll wait until at least Friday before going to the Black Ladders.
mynyddresident - on 03 Feb 2009
Climbed Clogwyn Left Hand Branch. Not ideally iced but the consensus is it never gets too fat i understand. Avalanche debris at the foot of Hidden Gully. Steeper slopes holding 5-6 inches of snow over a rock hard base.No signs of windslab, just loose heavy ish snow.
Nic
IainRUK - on 03 Feb 2009
In reply to mynyddresident: Some pics of yesterday in Nant Peris.

We didn't get that much, but strange how it's fallen quite deep in some areas. Driving back home tonight it was quite deep at the Beran garage.

http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/2009/02/more-snow-yay.html
RobE - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to petejh:

Cheers for the Black Ladders update. I was thinking of heading there sunday. How do you rate my chances?

Rob
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Migsy - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Update from today......Some fantastic conditions out in Cwm Idwal and the Glyders today (on the right gullies / slopes). Introductory gully was in fine condition with some good mixed climbing to be had on Seniors Ridge leading up to Glyder Fawr. Good neve leading up from SR to the summit and also on the descent to the top of Devils Kitchen. We saw a number of groups out on some of the higher grade ice in Devils Kitchen itself - Devils Pipes V and the Screen III/IV from what I could tell. A number of climbers were also on Idwal Stream - all looked in reasonable nick (they should get better through the week as the temps were quite mild in Cwm Idwal today). Some sizeable cornices have formed on the top of Y Garn (A, B and D or Banana Gully), also on the back wall of Cwm Cneifion though I did a guy soloing up the slope! A couple of climbers were also on Nameless Gully. Hope this helps anyone thinking of heading out there. In the right place you will find some cracking conditions.
DaveNW - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to Migsy:
We were on the stream today, Can't believe it was so quiet on there.
Walked on to the summit of Y Garn after - the gullys on there looked OK - banana looked very inviting!

Great weather today - Blue sky's!

Anyone heading out there with the current conditions should be in for a good day!
Migsy - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to DaveNW: Were hoping to climb the Stream on Friday - how was it?
mileshill540 - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

We were on the screen or what ever its called today, was a bit sketcky, lots of melting and hollow bits, pro was a bit suspect. Friend of ours went swimming in the stream because the ice was a little thin. Needs to re-freeze me thinks, hopfuly tonights front will do the job. will be up there early tomoz to see.
owenH - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to mileshill540:
I'd agree with you there - we climbed the screen late afternoon and it felt a wee bit 'interesting' particularly top of fall past the chandeliers!

South Gully apparently in great nick
Martyn - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Thinking of doing idwal stream on sat if u do it friday can u let me know what its like
Migsy - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to Martyn: Aye, no probs
David Hooper - on 04 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Did part of the horseshoe today , people climbing gullies in Cwm Glas and on Trinity Face reported them to be in good nick.
RobE - on 05 Feb 2009


Anyone got a look at Face Route in Cyrn Las? How's the nick?

Simon Panton not registered on 05 Feb 2009 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to RobE: Face Route got done last night - a bit 'interesting' in places, but okay apparently.
RobE - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to Simon Panton not registered:

Stiff for the grade then? Mmh. Do you know if the difficulties are escapable? Only done III before.
jameso - on 05 Feb 2009
Anyone done Great Gulley on Craig Yr Ysfa in the last few days? Fancy a pop at the weekend but wouldn't mind knowing how banked out it is.
davidhw - on 05 Feb 2009
Can anyone anyone recommend a good first winter lead likely to be in condition this weekend? I'm looking for something II(ish), reasonably easy to protect, escapable - but long and classic. Any suggestions? :-)

vincentvega - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to davidhw:

mixed/ ice?
iksander on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Bit off topic, but just wondering what the roads are like around the pass and dinorwic? We're going to the wolverhampton MC hut this weekend at Deiniolen and hoping we won't have an epic just getting to the hut....
carnie - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to Martyn: Solo'd it this morning and it was in fine nick. Topsection where it gets easier was a little thin but it's all over then anyway!
jameso - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to davidhw:

Cwm Glas: Parsley Fern RH is a classic - mostly Grade I with a II ice pitch and a steep(ish) exit. Has the added advantage of the LH branch which has more steep ice and goes at II/III, so you can chose where to play. Pitches are reasonable to protect, depending on conditions.

Tops out just below the summit of Craig Y Ddysgl and there is an easy way down by following the path that takes the obvious ridge above Cwm Glas.

Fantail gully to the left of Clog Y Person is good too - lots of short ice pitches with easier sections in between, whole lot goes at II/III.

On the way up you can do Sargeants if it's in, I think that's II or III from memory - water ice but in "steps".

Sure there are plenty more but that's the area I'm familiar with.
ruaidh - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to davidhw:

Parsley Fern Gully is good for ice, and is in good nick now I believe. Many people solo it, but there are sections you can/should pitch if you're just starting out.

We did hourglass gully a couple of weeks ago, which is about grade I/II, but you can make it more difficult. It was quite quite soft, but should be better now. The ice pitch on the right at the start might even be formed. However, as with all gullies BEWARE OF AVALANCE! Check conditions before, use rutschblock technique to check the slab, be aware of teams above you, and natural points of cover, etc. And of course if in ANY doubt at all BACK OFF.

Seems odd to be talking about avalanche in Wales, but there you go.
DaveNW - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to Migsy:

Stream was in good nick when we were on it.

Showed some signs of thawing but I think it is forecast for a freeze tonight which should help you out.

Have a good day tomorrow!
Simon Panton not registered on 05 Feb 2009 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to RobE: I'd say 'interesting' conditions on a grade IV would require the leader to be comfortable with at least a grade or two harder! You could possibly bypass the main ice pitch (can't remember if this is the case), but what would be the point as this is by far the best bit? Plenty of other routes to go at anyway.
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RobE - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to Simon Panton not registered:


Aye, it's been on the hitlist for a while. Some bloke over on Baggy's blog who climbed it the other night made it sound like breeze. Soft IV he said.
Mike Peacock on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to iksander:
> (In reply to napalm_life) Bit off topic, but just wondering what the roads are like around the pass and dinorwic? We're going to the wolverhampton MC hut this weekend at Deiniolen and hoping we won't have an epic just getting to the hut....

I've been into the Gwydyr Forest today and a lot of the little roads there were a bit touch and go, but gritted in parts. The A5 is fine.

I would expect the Pass to be fine, but not sure about the Dinorwic roads. Iain might have a better idea if he pops online at some point.
iksander on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: thanks, useful info
Simon Panton not registered on 05 Feb 2009 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to iksander: The main roads are okay, but do expect some ice on anything else. The road to Dinorwig is apparently alright, if a little slippy in places. It has been snowing this afternoon though.
geoff b on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to RobE:
That'd be me then! It was easier than 3 years ago. I.e. slighty less steep, lovely plastic pick placements & weird sugary snow under a meringue like crust which provided good footholds (less need to front point)but which didn't compromise the solidity of the rest of the climb. Plenty of good ice screw placements, stalagtites & rock gear too. Check the Welsh winter wiki site for an up to date description.
Can't say the same for the approach up the hill which was horrendous!
Enjoy.
Geoff b
P.S. Hi Si!
RobE - on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to geoff b:

Cheers for that - saw your reply on Baggy's blog as well, much appreciated.
Snowplod on 05 Feb 2009 - 89.243.25.228 whois?
Hi,
Where's the best place to park for Parsley Fern Gully?

Cheers
Mike Peacock on 05 Feb 2009
In reply to Snowplod: There are lie-bys by Blaen-y-Nant in the Pass. That's your best bet.
bigbobbyking - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

How are the wind slabs building up? Looks like it's been easterly winds most of the week now swinging round to northerly - so depositions on western and southern aspects?

Anyone care to comment?
timjones - on 06 Feb 2009
We took a trip up Central Trinity yesterday. It was cold, windy and snowed almost all day. Conditions were changing throughout the day, but it was just possible to pick a safe way up on rock hard Neve or ice all the way.

There should be a photo of the face on my profile (once it's approved) for anyone who's interested, just bear in mind that things are changing rapidly and things could be very different today.
Nigel Modern on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to bigbobbyking: Hi Blobby...I too am keen to hear any comments...wind slab on western aspects of Crib Goch?...could slip down onto PYG track? Planning a possible trip Sat.

Webcams look like there's not huge amounts of snow but...
davidhw - on 06 Feb 2009
Thanks all for advice. Will have a look at Parsley Fern gully tomorrow - will keep Fantail Gully / Sargeants in mind also.

Does anyone have any idea if there is likely to be much of a cornice/run out at the top?

Hoping to have a look at some ice around idwal on Sunday - anyone had a look today?

RobE - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to davidhw:

Never seen a cornice at the top of parsley fern, the slope peters out quite gradually from what i remember
Simon4 - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to timjones: Your picture from yesterday looks very snowy Tim.

Were you doing a lot of wading?
cmsg - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to davidhw: Echo the question about ice. Want to get up on Sunday, and wonder what folks think will be in around Idwal.


Anybody know whether Torpantau Waterfall is shaping up?
timjones - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Simon4:
> (In reply to timjones) Your picture from yesterday looks very snowy Tim.
>
> Were you doing a lot of wading?

The walk in was fine, the PYG track was well swept by the wind. It was possible to pick a line up the gully on neve avoiding most of the fresh snow. I wandered into a few drifts on the ridge back to the top of the zig-zags and the walk out was only slightly snowier than the walk in. The falling snow was all been blown away somewhere, where it landed I'm not to sure ;)
davidhw - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to RobE:
> (In reply to davidhw)
>
> Never seen a cornice at the top of parsley fern, the slope peters out quite gradually from what i remember

Ah, good :)
Heddwyn - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: anyone been to cwm ffynnon lloer? good nick? avalanche risk? im a winter novice so advice welcome for good spots for the next two days.
Mike Peacock on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Heddwyn: I haven't been in this week but will give you some advice anyway; it's called Cwm Lloer not Cwm Ffynnon Lloer :)
Heddwyn - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: Not according to the guidebook! Ah well as a local i guess you could be right.
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Ian McNeill - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Hedd

avalanche? have a swisstick instead ...

Nigel Modern on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to bigbobbyking: btw I misread your name and wasn't meaning to be rude!

If PYG track's been blown clear western aspects should be OK

Couldn't comment on southern aspects eg Trinity Face
Heddwyn - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Ian McNeill: huh? dont get it? are you being sarcastic because theres no chance of avalanche? hmmm...
Mike Peacock on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Heddwyn: Ah, haven't noticed that it was down in the guidebook as that. I'm just being pedantic anyway.
smithee on 06 Feb 2009 - host81-141-96-232.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to Nigel Modern:

> If PYG track's been blown clear western aspects should be OK

May i ask - If blown clear? How clear? Will I need crampons and axe to get up (taking them anyway - just forewarned is forearmed) and will my collie get up PYG too or are we safer going llanberis path?


Mike Peacock on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to smithee: Last Saturday the Llanberis path was just as icy as the Pyg; you needed crampons for both. And the railways didn't offer a safe option either.
Nigel Modern on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to smithee: As someone else has said they'll be icy and we'll have full crampons with us.

I'll get the thought police on me for saying this but if you don't fancy forking out for full crampons Grivel Spiders (about 20) are good as long as you stick to good paths eg Miners or PYG

Wind on the Lllanberis side will be 'orrible tomorrow and that side of the mountain is dangerous around Clogwyn without crampons and perhaps even with them tomorrow if it's very windy.

I'm not against dogs but they do cause problems if they're allowed to run around on the zig zags in snow/ice...mainly because of all the people without crampons...
Nigel Modern on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Nigel Modern: PS the 'blown clear' comments are about wind slab avalanche risk, not possible to explain in a forum context
Tom Hutton - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Heddwyn:
Broad Gulley was close to perfect Wednesday. Some windblown slab but very small patches. Disclaimer: May have changed since
Nigel Modern on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Nigel Modern: All apologies today! Trinity is east facing and PYG track overlooked by south facing slopes...sorry for misinformation. I'm going back in my box....
timjones - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to smithee:
> (In reply to Nigel Modern)
>
> [...]
>
> May i ask - If blown clear? How clear? Will I need crampons and axe to get up (taking them anyway - just forewarned is forearmed) and will my collie get up PYG too or are we safer going llanberis path?

From what I saw on Thursday I wouldn't go without crampons. It's so much quicker and safer when you can walk on anything instead of hopping around dodging the ice. We used them from a point about 1km before the bottom of the zigs and saved an awful lot of time. It's to much stress and faff to go without IMO

caminoaustral - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Nigel Modern:
a good summary here - http://www.avalanche-center.org/Education/topics/wind3.php

with 30-40mph north/northwesterlies forecast for tomorrow - http://www.mwis.org.uk/mountain/SD.PDF

south or south east facing slopes will be in the lee of the wind/liable to accumulate large amounts of windslab i.e. slopes above the pyg track
vincentvega - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

anyone know what the appendix is like at the moment?
tobykeep - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to vincentvega:

Not there apparently.
Nigel Modern on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to caminoaustral: Thanks mate...I emailed you.

Different forecast on http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/HOBBIES/mountain_forecast.asp?LocationID=1154 but BBC weather also showing high winds.

I think everyone should assess those slopes if they go up tomorrow.
David Hooper - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to vincentvega: I saw it from the roasd on Tue - looked about 2/3rds there but thin and not fully formed.
Nigel Modern on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to caminoaustral: No mention of 40mph on your forecast for tomorrow...25-30mph.

Have you seen that on a forecast for tonight?...either way there could be a build up
vincentvega - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to David Hooper:

cheers
Jamsams - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to vincentvega: Anyone planning on going up the PYG track or MINERS path any time soon be warned, the Zig Zags may as well not be there as the snow has pretty much covered the cutting. The last section is especially bad as the build up of snow from the ridge down means you are covering some very steep ground with a good fall potential. Crampons and Ice Axe are a must in my view as the snow is so hard packed that kicking steps is impossible. The path below the Zig Zags is pretty much the same. New snow and hail fell for about 2 hours whilst we were descending today and has covered previously visible ice. Good luck and be careful.

p.s. for the first time in a long time we saw someone turn back because of conditions. Shame more people didn't have the same level of common sense as them.
DaveNW - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to vincentvega:
We were at Idwal on wednesday and it wasn't formed.

Thinking of Banana Gully on Y Garn tomorrow, snow looked good on Wednesday, anyone got the latest conditions?
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Migsy - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to vincentvega: Some snaps showing ice formations on Devils Kitchen as they were on Wednesday.

http://picasaweb.google.com/migs418620/UKCLinks#
Migsy - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Martyn: Didn't get onto Idwal stream today due to work - going on Sunday now ... if you get on it tomorrow can you let me know the condition.
Ian1Mcinnes - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: FYI! Been up around Cader today, its been an awesome day, some ice about but the snow is soft power and not hard enough for an axe placement.

We went up cyfwrys arette. There was some good ice to the left of one pitch gully.(as you look at it!) Too hard for us, though could be someone's cup of tea.

Not able to get out over the weekend, but I'm sure there will be lots of fun had by many.
petejh on 06 Feb 2009 - host86-175-32-71.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: South Gully's in good nick, easy hooking the whole way on the left, right hand side looks good. Most routes in the kitchen look in and fat. Appendix is climbable but the start will get destroyed by someone if (when) it's mobbed, should fatten up a bit more if forecast is right. Cascade is in but will get fatter, Central Ice-Fall Direct is in to the top pitch, top pitch looks super sketchy, hopefully it will form better if forecast is correct. Face route's in as Geoff B. mentioned. Clogwyn Left-Hand reported on welsh winter wiki to be in good nick. Black Cleft must be worth a look. Shit loads of ice routes to go at, someone should go check out if Trojan on Cadair is formed. Game on... for a little while.
petejh on 06 Feb 2009 - host86-175-32-71.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life:
Someone should go check this out:

Kiss of the Spider Woman Grade V+ Cwm Silyn
The obvious ice smear down a faint groove in the rock buttress 30m down and R of Widow of the Web.
1. 3. Mixed groove R of first pitch of Widow of the Web followed by easy rambling to base of smear.
2. 6. Enter the groove delicately and soar upward. Serious.
3. Ramble to the summit.

F.A. Owain Jones, Johnny Garside 06/01/97 A genuinely brilliant pitch as good as anything in the area.
geoff b on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Rumour has it that Big Tim Neal has done The Appendix today... but he does have a very long reach!
Geoff B
vincenam - on 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Heddwyn: Did Broad Gully on Wednesday and in excellent nick. The majority of fresh snow had been blown away leaving firm neve.
arborade - on 07 Feb 2009
In reply to Jamsams: I think we spoke to you on your descent as we were heading up. Just thought I'd add that it continued to snow throughout our descent, increasingly heavy too. Back at the pass carpark the road was under snow all the way back until Betws-y-coed.
Ian McNeill - on 07 Feb 2009
In reply to geoff b:
> (In reply to napalm_life)
> Rumour has it that Big Tim Neal... The Appendix today...

solo i think not someone must have shared the route ...



ill check out the routes in Bodlyn.


as for OJ's route .. there are the classics to be done....

Migsy - on 07 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Any reports on conditions of ice / snow from today - Devils Kitchen or Trinity Face?
jim jones on 07 Feb 2009
In reply to Migsy:
Great Gully (Craig Yr Ysfa) yesterday was full of unconsolidated powder the ice was a bit variable and thin. Can't really recomend it in the current conditions. Very atmospheric and certainly has a big route feel though! Photo of it in current conditions uploaded to my gallery.
jim jones on 07 Feb 2009
Mike Peacock on 07 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: I've been for a wander up Siabod today. Lots of deep powder snow. Driving back Craig y Rhaeadr looked good!
ox - on 07 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Climbed Seargents gully and then onto Parsley Fern left hand,its all in good condition snow ice on Seargents gully breaking away in parts but good,Parsley Fern very good calves of steel needed,lots of people out even two teams on the cascade it looks insane may be one day i will climb it,dreaming again.So get out Snowdonia is the place to be.
Martyn - on 07 Feb 2009
Migsy
Conditions still very good. Did Idwal Stream today and it was still frozen all the way up. There is the odd hole showing the water and some hollow ice but generally fine. The Curtain, The Screen, South Gully all in condition. More snow than on Friday but not a problem.
JIB - on 07 Feb 2009
I went into Clogwyn y Garnedd this morning. There's a lot of fresh snow sitting on a consolidated melt-freeze layer. When it's tested, it's sliding quite easily indicating a level of instability. In places, the depth of this snow was significant, 6"+. The fresh snow is lying across a variety of aspects (previous wind directions and current wind crossloading) and these aspects were being loaded by both the wind and further precipitation.

So there's fresh unstable snow, wind transported snow, precipitation, a sliding surface and the instability seemed to be across a range of aspects.
Migsy - on 07 Feb 2009
In reply to Martyn: Cheers. Will be there early doors tomorrow.
DaveNW - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to JIB:

We were planning to do Right Hand Trinity in the morning, did you see what it was like?
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
Alpine start for Idwal from Manc this morning. Introduction Gully, The Screen, Idwal Stream all saw parties topping out.

The snow is unconsolidated. Ice is ok, but needs care on the easier routes.

Flurries throughout the morning, and a lowering cloud base. Wasn't particularly cold.
Migsy - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to Martyn: Just back having completed Idwal Stream. Ice still in nick despite having had a hammering over the last few days. Patches to avoid are obvious. Loads climbing The Screen, The Curtain, Idwal Stream, Central Gully, The Ramp as we left.
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Mike Peacock on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: A few photos from the weekend.

Snowdon from Moel Siabod on Saturday:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3262882043/

Nant Gwynant from Carnedd y Cribau (Saturday):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3263709924/

Deep snow (Sunday):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3263710318/

Aber Falls, Llwytmor and Bera Mawr (Sunday):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3263710690/in/set-72157613509140200/
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
This should give an idea of the ice in Idwal

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=108252

lithos on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants:

an chance you could idnetfy the routes on there as a topo as its such a a good clear picture.

Someone did this a few years ago but it got lost when they left their uni and their account went !
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to lithos: I'll give it a go, and post back later.
mkean - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants:
Thats a great photo, a nice high resolution topo would be smashing :)
lithos on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants:

cheers - a few of these could provide excellent supplements to
guidebooks and i might even be able to find some routes :-)
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to lithos:

A South Gully *** IV
B Central Route * III
C Grecian 2000 IV
D Chicane Gully * III
E Devil's Pipes * V
F The Ramp ** III/II
G The Screen ** III/IV
H The Curtain
I Devil's Pasture III
J Coldhouse Crack * III
DK The Devil's Kitchen *** IV
K Devil's Staircase ** IV/V
L The Devil's Appendix *** VI
M Hanging Garden Gully * IV
N The Sting * IV/V
O The Deliv's Cellar ** IV
P The Goat's Path I

Disclaimer - I make no claim these lines are accurate (not so good drawing with a mouse), nor for the grades. Use this topo at your own risk.

Dunno whether the mods will let the topo into my gallery, so have put it on flickr

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/191/3263589045_20371c1ff5_b.jpg

If conditions time interest permit, I could possibly try and do some more - perhaps on a request basis?
liquid1000 - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants: why not put on welsh winter climbs?
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to Stephen Tatham: Wazzat then?
jim jones on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants:

http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
Are you sure about the line of The Sting? I always thought it was the wider steeper line out of the cave on the right. The line marked is more of an ice groove, we did it a few years ago when we realised it wasn't in the book, can't really see why it was overlooked though. Sting LH maybe?
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to jim jones: Couldn't say, don't know The Sting, so you're most probably right.
jim jones on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants:
Sorry my post sounded like a criticsm, your topo is spot on and much better than the current guide. It's just my mate and I were wary of claiming a first ascent as the line is so obvious and missing in the guide book. It's also a bit easier than The Sting.
vincentvega - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants:

im sure the curtain goes at a IV.

and the screen is a IV i think!
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to jim jones:
> Sorry my post sounded like a criticsm

No hump taken ;) and thanks for +ve
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to vincentvega: Fair play. Memory failing, and guide book old...
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
mmd - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

This is a great topo

Regards N it is in the wrong place, the Sting is the one to the right. This line as shown has been climbed numerous times before and has no name. I propose we call in Sting ray and will get that name on the wiki and in the new routes,
badpants - on 08 Feb 2009
In reply to mmd: Corrected. Deleted the orig, and uploaded a new one.
badpants - on 09 Feb 2009
lithos on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to badpants:

thanks again - this is really useful with the current guide.

I also think this medium (UKC) offers supplements to guidebook
topos and photos and is very very useful.

Have you put it in the 'Crag Shots' section ?


Anyone got any for Hart Crag as I always get lost up there :-)
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RobE - on 09 Feb 2009
If you were on Craig y Rhaedar on Sunday wearing red, I've got a shot of you on the route. It's uploaded to the gallery but if you want a higher res drop me a line.

It was getting late in the day - maybe 5pm - when the shot was taken. Hope you made it up and/or down OK.

Cheers,


Rob
RobE - on 09 Feb 2009
Just uploaded a photo topo of Face Route also for anyone who wants it.
mynyddresident - on 09 Feb 2009
I believe that was me Rob, I'd had a big old day on the ladders on Saturday with my gf and turned the alarm off sunday morning. Woke up at 12:30 and thought I should really get out. After recovering this poor fellas gear who had harness troubles and lobbing it down to him then not finding the peg crack it seems time had flown by ! We got off fine, great route! Yeh would be cool to see a higher res pic . Cheers Nic
badpants - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to mynyddresident: Such an awesome route. Saw it driving by with my Ma when I was a nipper, and thought "One day, I wanna do stuff like that". Haven't been on it though. Good effort.
In reply to napalm_life: Whats it like up there at the moment? I'm fancying an easy trip up the Idwal Stream tomorrow morning, but will it be in condition? Ta.
In reply to carrot_boy: Anybody?
MikeLell - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to carrot_boy: Just about, i guess. (Climbed it yesterday) You might get a bit wet.
glasto_mudd - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to MikeLell:

I just checked the weather report we deffo gonna get wet!!
smithee on 11 Feb 2009 - host81-141-96-232.wlms-broadband.com

Got back at 11pm on Tuesday night.

Conditions are very good. Misty, hazy sun at times but generally cloudy, very occasional snow shower. Deep snow in parts in walk-in's and up's. Windy and cold on tops and exposed areas. Gaiters and axe a must. Took crampons but did not use.

Well worth it - just about as picturesque as you'll ever find Snowdonia! Stunning!

Welsh Post lead with headline on Monday "stay off killer mountain". Not in my opinion. I think perfectly safe if common sense and proper kit applied in large measures. Enjoy.
Rob Cole - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to smithee: Anyone know what the weather's like up there today, thinking of heading over tonight to get on some ice tomorrow and friday. Is it worth the trip?
Cheers, Rob
Karlos - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to Rob Cole and all:

Hey. I climbed in Idwal on Monday. Wanted to do the Screen, but everything seemed to be dripping, and some blokes we met warned us that for the first pitch the belayer would have to stand in the impact zone of some rather major icicles high up. They had seen something come down already. We also saw the Devils Appendix spewing some ice - get's your attention.

Climbed the Ramp instead, and the large icicle at the first belay didn't seem particularly stuck to the rock on it's top side.

Then climbed the Devils Pasture, which was really good fun. Had to start on the right 5 meters up, and traverse left with difficulty onto the route proper. This initial slab section (which is the start of the adjacent route) was rapidly giving up the ghost, but the rest of the route was fine.

We were back out again nearby on Tuesday, and it did seem colder, but we only went past the ice in Idwal once it had gone dark (epic) so can't comment on the quality.

BTW, anyone done Left Hand Branch in Clogwyn Ddu lately? We thought the main ice pitch was very thin, and ended up climbing the chimney direct and belaying half way, before commiting to the face. I thought this was one of the most reliable routes in the area?

Happy climbing,

K
stevez - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to Karlos:

How are the classic gully lines looking like the Trinitys, Hidden Gully, Parsley Fern, and Sargeants. Thinking of heading up early on Friday morning if these routes are going to give some good sport on some nice neve.

Anyone know?
Migsy - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to stevez: No neve today on SE Face of Snowdon, although the snow was fairly consolidated it did seem to be melting to me. I did see a group top out on Central Trinity and they seemed to think the route was OK.
dogjogger on 11 Feb 2009 - host81-156-225-74.range81-156.btcentralplus.com
In reply to stevez: up in cwm glas today,lots of snow but thawing
fast,could come good again if freeze level drops,sargeants not
looking good,cheers simon
stevez - on 12 Feb 2009
In reply to 75brynrheidol:

Thanks Simon. Forecast not looking good for a freeze overnight tonight so probably going to give it a miss.
Nigel Modern on 12 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: View on this webcam today is pretty spectacular

http://www.eryri-npa.co.uk/page/index.php?nav1=enjoying&nav2=12&nav3=1&lang=eng&cont...

For info - other Snowdon webcams can be found by Googling 'Electric Mountain webcam'
Mike Peacock on 12 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: I've just returned from a short day on Allt Fawr. The snow is still pretty much down to the Crimea Pass. Started off clear but as we summitted the winds picked up with stinging hail. Very bitter up there.
lukef - on 12 Feb 2009
Was in the kitchen very early this morning and lots of ice was about still. Some folks were on the appendix (a bit thin for the likes of me), and we climbed a rather damp devils kitchen.
Quite a bit of ice still (the screen etc still fine) and cwm cneifion looked very white. Hard packed snow ice down to where the path crosses the stream.

Maybe one last chance to cram something in before this? - http://mwis.org.uk/mountain/SD.PDF
Mr Fuller on 12 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
What's Tryfan looking like at the moment? Any routes at I or II particularly good?
Mike Peacock on 12 Feb 2009
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Martyn - on 12 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Can anyone confirm that routes like 'The Ramp' and 'The Screen' are still in condition for a last dash climb, Friday or Saturday?
wanttogoclimb on 13 Feb 2009 - 193.63.87.227 whois?
In reply to napalm_life:

Not on the hill today, am about 30 miles east on the Welsh side of Chester and it's much much warmer than recently, in fact it's turned into a beautiful, spring day ...
Andrew.Davies - on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Martyn: They are still there saw them from the top of BLack Ladders yeaterday. But if there anything like the ice on the ladders, you may not want to climb it.
Nicholas Livesey on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to anyone: I'm heading up later and wondering about the condition of Parsley Fern and the Trinity Face routes. I'm not that hopefull for grade I gullies but my fingers are crossed.

Has there been any major dumps on the tops in the last few days?
theonewhoismatt - on 13 Feb 2009
I too am very interested in the coniditons as a few of us are hoping to get out tomorrow.
In reply to napalm_life: anybody know what the Idwal Stream is like, planning on taking out some begginers tomorrow, but will it still be frozen?
a lakeland climber on 13 Feb 2009
wilkesley - on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Martyn:

I was there on Tuesday. They were both OK then, but it was thawing in the afternoon. However, we have had a couple of hard frosts since then, so they may be OK.

Ian.
Cuillin Calling on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Did you get a look at what the gully conditions were like in the Black Ladders on Thu. Particularly interested in the grade 111-1V ones.
Thanks Diccon
dgp - on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Diccon:
Forget ice climbing in Snowdonia- it's falling down in the rapid thaw !
Nicholas Livesey on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Anyone: Trinity Face...Parsley Fern Gully anyone, maybe with a very early start?

I've got to go in a few minutes
peterjb - on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: Thawing rapidly today, maybe a slight re-freeze overnight, but further thawing forcast for tomorrow. I wouldnt bother.
Jonno on 13 Feb 2009 - user-54459c36.lns1-c13.telh.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:

Still snow around but it has all the consistency of a Slush Puppy !

Bloody misty this afternoon too.


http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u192/eryrglas/PICT0006.jpg?t=1234542214

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u192/eryrglas/PICT0007.jpg?t=1234542244
ajenni on 13 Feb 2009 - host86-157-21-56.range86-157.btcentralplus.com
This morning in Devil's Kitchen: rivers coming down everywhere, between ice and rock, and over the ice. Everything's melting. Ice climbing impossible.
jim jones on 13 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Cascade & Central Icefall all collapsed & water streaming under anything thats left. Descended Central Trinity this afternoon and don't think even that last will last this rapid thaw. Be very sceptical of the forecast temp's!
rowen root - on 14 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Temp 8.1c at 500ft asl a couple of miles west of elidr Fach fair bit of low clowd.
Cuillin Calling on 16 Feb 2009
In reply to dgp, Nicholas Livesey, peterjb:

Thanks to all of you guys for the tip off about the thaw. It sounds like I have saved myself a drive all the way up from Aylesbury and a rather frustrating w/e. Will sit tight and keep fingers crossed for March!!
Migsy - on 19 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life: In case anyone is still monitoring this post....We went upto Snowdon today to check out Clogwyn y Garnedd not expecting any winter routes, however, Central Trinity had a line of snow throughout the gully and looked tempting enough to go up to the spider to check out conditions underfoot which were OK (consolidated snow where others had been). There was just enough snow / ice in the gully to exit without any grief (but with a belay) and the upper snow field was again consolidated underfoot. A bonus route which was not expected. LH and RH Trinity also looked like they would have gone today. The three of us had 2 axes and crampons which were required.
ph on 26 Feb 2009 - host86-175-216-227.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to napalm_life: Just a bump to keep this active for march...
SFM - on 26 Feb 2009
In reply to ph:

Now there's an optimist! :O)
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Kimono - on 26 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
i think we had a white march in snowdonia a coupla years ago...so you never know
Andy Mountains - on 26 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Yes more of the white stuff is a definite possibility here in wales in march. Not sure that it will return to the incredible conditions seen earlier this month though!!......

Come on weather!!! BE COLD!!! VERY COLD!!!
Mike Peacock on 26 Feb 2009
In reply to kieran b: A few years back I remember snow down to Gerlan (Bethesda) just after Easter. Last year there was still stuff around:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/2415758217/
mmd - on 28 Feb 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Last easter 2008 i climbed Glogwyn Ddu left hand, El Mancho, Jubilee Climb and a new route all of the Easter Bank Holiday all in top knick.

iksander on 03 Mar 2009
In reply to mmd: Looks like a bit of a cold run Wed - Thu

http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid

Don't know if that would enough to make a difference, but some snow due too by the looks of things

sponger46 - on 03 Mar 2009
If any one is out tomorrow or thursday make sure you update the conditions! Im stuck in Leeds at the mo but if its gonna be any good I'll be coming home early.

Cheers
Mike Peacock on 04 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Snow down in Bangor at 8am this morning. It's melted but I've just been along the coast and it's right down to Penmaenmawr and Llanfairfechan. The mountains look fantastic again.
Scarab - on 04 Mar 2009
had a nice rocklimbing session this sun, not a drop of rain in llanberis pass.
bms on 04 Mar 2009
In reply to sponger46:
Just got back from the Glyders. We went into Cwm Cneifion and scrambled up Hidden Gully which was a mixture of deepish powder, old snow and rock. Great fun. There seemed to have been about six or eight inches of fresh snow which had drifted in places. Water ice was starting to form on Tower Slabs area but there still wasn't much there. Snowdon looked as if it was catching a big, slow moving shower while we were on the plateau. Hopefully the new snow will get the chance to consolidate...
Ben
Mike Peacock on 04 Mar 2009
In reply to bms: I'll be out tomorrow so I'll add some pics at some point. Maybe Tryfan, haven't been up there for a good while.
Sean Kelly - on 04 Mar 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: Yes I recall that Easter snowfall. I got sunburnt into the bargain!
Darren Roberts on 04 Mar 2009 - user-54449e8d.lns5-c10.dsl.pol.co.uk
Went up Llanberis path with my brother yesterday (Tuesday 3rd March). Visibility good in valley, at times zero vis at about (we guessed) 900m (lunchtime-ish). Visor and mask required really. Think the 35mph gusts and -3C weather report was generous! We were chatting to a local at the cafe on our way down who reckoned it was something like -8C up there. And I'd guess gusts slightly more than 35mph...it was hold on to my brother and hunker down for parts. 4 legs better than 2.

What we saw was beautiful - reminds me of parts of Scotland. Will definitely be back (would need better kit or more favourable weather to go to summit!) and I'm already booked in, this time with my wife, in May. Maybe the train will be running for her then, and hopefully the weather will be fairer!

Neither my brother or I have ever experienced anything like it, Snowdon made one hell of an impression on us.

Simon Panton not registered on 05 Mar 2009 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to Touching Centauri: Hard frost this morning in Cwm y Glo, puddles frozen, locks frozen on my van. Snowdon looks very wintery indeed!

Looking ahead, some promising freezing levels:

http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/loutdoor/mountainsafety/snowdonia.html

Maybe this is the last gasp of winter?

I've written up the February winter action, with some pics on the Ground Up site. See here:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=231
Mike Peacock on 05 Mar 2009
In reply to Simon Panton not registered: The webcams look good again this morning, and the forecast reasonable. Luckily in about an hour or so I'll be out somewhere :)
Andy Mountains - on 05 Mar 2009
Heading into Snowdonia next tues/wed desperately hoping that something on Trinity face will be in condition. Never been on it before. If anyone is near or on the face between now & then please keep me (and everyone else informed). Thanks in advamce...
Mike Peacock on 05 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Just back from a short jaunt on Tryfan North Ridge. The snow isn't deep but there's plenty of ice underfoot. On the descent we thought we heard a repeated cry for help, but couldn't decide if it was human or just a bleating goat. As we hit the road we found the source of the noise; a young looking kid. Spring is here! Thick snow falling as we drove back down the Nant Ffrancon.

Base of the ridge:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3330086045/

Llyn Ogwen:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3330086285/in/set-72157614762175331/

Gallt yr Ogof:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3330922114/in/set-72157614762175331/

Northern Glyders:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3330922286/in/set-72157614762175331/

Kid:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/3330930936/
climbingspike on 05 Mar 2009 - client-82-2-127-197.brnt.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to napalm_life: went up Snowdon this afternoon via the railway track which is very icey in places and quite dangerous above capel coch again. Came back down the path to llanberis, This is also very icey in places, New snow disguising the danger spots, Ice axe and crampons above 750 meters a good idea.
IainRUK - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to climbingspike: Ran up Siabod last night, up the main path was fine without any gear, but it was deeper than I thought and the snow was geting quite firm. Much more and we'd have wanted crampons, as it was it was comfortable running conditions. Lovely night, left at 6:15 and didn't need the torches until coming dowb.
richprideaux - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Anybody been out today? Worth me diverting to somewhere with a bit of white stuff to try me new boots?
IainRUK - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to shingsowa: Carneddau looked quite plastered when I drove out today, I was suprised last night how thick the snow was, a lot more fell than I though considering the hills were almost bare again 72 hrs ago.
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richprideaux - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to IainRUK:
Might head there then instead of Snowdon. Taking a couple of relative newbies out to get their crampons wet...
highlander1 - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Was up on C.Llewelynn today from Gerllan. patches of snow at about 500m becomming thicker the higher i went. Shoud last but the forcast shows that the freezing level is rising tomorrow. forcast is for rain comming i will post some pictures on my blog at www.dayinthemountains.co.uk
Tom Hutton - on 07 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Am interested to know any reports on the conditions today (saturday)

Thanks
Andy Mountains - on 08 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life:
Trinity face???? Any chance at all??? got tuesday off work, really really hoping we can find something still hanging on 'in condition'. Any info at all would be MUCH appreciated.
Will Sheaff - on 08 Mar 2009
In reply to Tom Hutton:

Info from 8.3.9 @ www.rockmonkey.co.uk/blog

Summary: Six inches of slush and wind that could strip paint.

Will.
petejh on 08 Mar 2009 - host86-175-216-227.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to trek: Yes, there's a chance you'll get some worthwhile climbing. There'll be snow, the freezing level's up and down every day next week by the looks of things, whether or not it'll be neve is anyone's guess but it's worth going for sure.
Andy Mountains - on 08 Mar 2009
In reply to petejh:

Now thats the attitude I like!! Oh yes I will be going whatever the weather, no fear.

By the way petejh, you have some VERY cool photos.
Migsy - on 10 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life: Anyone with any reports from today?
haydn on 11 Mar 2009
I'm also wondering if there's anything snowy to do. The logbooks say that someone did Easy Route in Cwm Cneifion on Saturday, which is the route I'm considering tomorrow - it's high up and mostly out of the way of the sun, so might there be a chance of something being left?
asmith37 - on 11 Mar 2009
In reply to haydn: On saturday there was a reasonable covering of snow in the, down to just above the start of cneifion arete but it was unconsolodated and thawing. The snow was very thin in places although got better towards the top. I would expect that it would have thawed quite a bit more since then. if your heading that way anyway at least you can see it from the road to save a wasted walk in.
AimeeB on 12 Mar 2009 - 5ada073d.bb.sky.com
In reply to napalm_life:
anybody been out in ogwen valley type area in the last few days? I'm going there for the weekend and was wondering whether I'll be needing to pack the ice axe?
(p.s. - not looking to do any climbing, just walking & scrambling so wondering about underfoot conditions more than gullys climbs etc).

cheers!
Mike Peacock on 12 Mar 2009
In reply to AimeeB: http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/webcams//pages/snowdon.shtml

I wouldn't bother. Pack your waterproofs instead.
AimeeB on 12 Mar 2009 - 5ada073d.bb.sky.com
In reply to Touching Centauri:
that's what i feared.......! hey ho, it's all good nav practice.
Mike Peacock on 12 Mar 2009
In reply to AimeeB: I'll hopefully be out tomorrow. Seems like good gorge scrambling weather to me!
haydn on 12 Mar 2009
In reply to AimeeB:
Went up Senior's Ridge on the Glyders today, and down Y Gribin. Blustery but no snow to speak of really. There's the odd patch here and there, most of it slushy and disappearing rapidly. It's basically just bits in hollows, and cornice remnants.
Mike Peacock on 12 Mar 2009
In reply to haydn: Out of interest, would you be the Haydn attempting the Scrambles in Snowdonia challenge?
Nicholas Livesey on 12 Mar 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: If he is I really want to know how he gets on with Yr Esgair;-)
Mike Peacock on 12 Mar 2009
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: Me too!
Anonymous on 12 Mar 2009 - 82-69-53-65.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk
In reply to napalm_life:


Kill this thread, it's past its sell by date !
dickanddom on 13 Mar 2009 - client-81-107-197-235.glfd.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to Anonymous:

NO don't kill me

its cold outside winter is returning again !!!!
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Andy Mountains - on 13 Mar 2009
In reply to napalm_life:

Keep this post alive permenantly! It is very helpful indeed.
haydn on 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Gah, it seems that this has taken on a life of it's own! :) Yes, that's me. I'm starting to regret ever mentioning it, mainly because of Yr Esgair! I'm desperately trying to think of some way out of it, but haven't thought of anything so far. Still got about half of them left to go, and I intend to leave that one until somewhere near the end, so I won't have to worry about it for a little bit yet. Hopefully.
Simon Caldwell - on 13 Mar 2009
In reply to haydn:
Does it count if you do it in winter conditions? Grade II with 2 stars IIRC.
haydn on 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Toreador:
Yes, winter ascents do count. It's an interesting thought - I wonder if it's any less scary if it's all frozen together with a bit of ice around. I wouldn't imagine I'll get through the rest of them this summer anyway, so might be worth bearing in mind for next year. We seem to be de-railing this thread. :)
Mike Peacock on 13 Mar 2009
In reply to haydn: Ah well good luck anyway. You'll have fun when you get to things like the Black Ladders, Tryfan South Gully, Tregalan Couloir, etc. The routes that don't have topos, and lack much info online, and in fact wet and loose and slimy :D

And when you do do Yr Esgair, please take lots and lots of photos! :)
RicheyPen - on 13 Mar 2009
Does anyone know if there is snow on the Pyg track at the moment?
Nicholas Livesey on 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Touching Centauri: And Bilberry Terrace:-)
Anonymous on 14 Mar 2009 - 82-69-53-65.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk
In reply to RicheyPen:

What do you think ? really

It's been warm for ages with lashings of rain...come on !!!!!!!
lunaticg on 14 Mar 2009 - 91.84.240.205 whois?
In reply to napalm_life:

Just back from the Pyg track (up and down) and just after the zigzags was plenty of snow and saturday morons 'sliding' on their arses down it in jeans/trainers..

No ice or snow really on the Pyg/Miners tracks before the Zig Zags though..

Got chance to use the crampons for a short while (which was good, as saved getting knocked over by said morons)

Summit was very very windy and in/out of cloud most of the day.

Dr.Strangeglove - on 14 Mar 2009
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:
now thats a fun route....
has anybody here done yr esgier?

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