/ Best VS you've done?
It's an expedition with a swim (and/or Tyrolean traverse), great climbing including a tough initial traverse, sound rock, exposure and continuing interest, followed by an airy ab, and finally the Tyrolean again. A superb day out.
Eliminate A, Dow
The one on Cloggy that starts with a layback... can't remember the name. The first time I experienced any real exposure.
The Girdle traverse of Buckstone How, is the one that comes to mind.
Fionn Buttress, Carnmore.
> Fionn Buttress, Carnmore.
I really want to do that one, is it VS or Scottish VS, it`s one I have fancied for 2 or 3 years now.
Probably Haste Not. Although South Ridge Direct, The Emperors New Toes and Chee Tor Girdle are hot on its heals.
Osiris on Lewes Castle in the Gower. Not done many tho, so I'm not able to trot out a list of classics. My first VS was rather memorable, Terry's Crack at Trebanog (in the Valleys) and I like Flight at Symonds Yat.
Good list. I'd add Overhanging Bastion and Engineers Slab into the pot.
I got so many suggestions I put together a second list too:
The best VS day I've had was on Dow - we did Eliminate A, Murray's Direct and Eliminate C (14 pitches, three descents and a long walk in and out) just managed to make last orders in Coniston to celebrate.
Benny at Swanage was another memorable experience, and for single pitch Armorican in North Pembs. is exquisite.
Single pitch it's got to be The Night Watch at Whitestone Cliffe. Even Chris Craggs is on record as saying he couldn't think of a better one ;-)
Multi pitch, not done a huge number, but Eliminate A so far.
I've not done m(any) of the big, classic Vs's, but ones that have stuck in my memory...
Piggott's Stride, Almscliffe.
Rob's crack, Fairy Cave.
Nozag at Castle Naze,
Hargreaves' Original Route, though that was probably becasue I on-sight soloed it and it scared the bejesus out of me..
So you did. I've done 23 and 12 respectively, which is rather more than I expected!
Fionn Buttress is VS. Scottish VS only exists on a few obscure route nowadays, not a classic like this.
Thanks, it`s a long drive followed by a long walk to be sandbagged
My vote is for Albion on Lundy. The middle pitch is 40 odd metres of every corner/crack technique you can think of, all well protected and all with the expanse of the Devil's Slide behind you.
Right Angle (var), Gurnard's Head, Cornwall. Pretty epic, brooding position, especially in a swell. A well-placed hanging belay adds to the experience. A strong climbing memory.
I thought it was quite pushy in places for VS especially the first real pitch up the slab which you need to keep cool on. The pitch that's graded 5a is actually more intimidating than hard - the pitch beneath (the corner) is harder - I'd say the 5a pitch is 4c tops. Mostly it's just exposed!
A LOT to pick from, but I think I'd pop for Overhanging Bastion...I just remember climbing that narrowing ramp line and then, once it had got too narrow, committing to the move I really didn't want to do but which was also the only one I *could* do.
Yes, I think that's it, at least I know I did that looking at the photos on ukc albums. There is another VS up there too which was pretty spectacular and would merit being on the list, but the name's too far gone. I remember a pitch on a long fairly narrow slab, would that be Longland's Climb? Either of them are excellent VS routes by any standards.
Lorraine at Bowden
South Face Direct at Chair Ladder for sure.
> I thought it was quite pushy in places for VS especially the first real pitch up the slab which you need to keep cool on. The pitch that's graded 5a is actually more intimidating than hard - the pitch beneath (the corner) is harder - I'd say the 5a pitch is 4c tops. Mostly it's just exposed!
It's a long time since I did it myself, but I had several opinions saying 5a for that pitch although I don't remember it being any harder. There were even suggestions that a hold had come off.
One in each country - Fionn Buttress, Eliminate A and Mur y Niwl. Each superb and impossible for me to rank any one above the others. South Face Direct (Chair Ladder) and Mousetrap on the Dubh Loch very close behind.
Mousetrap and Black Mamba over 2 days with an overnight at the Glas-Allt Sheil has to be my best weekend's climbing ever. Very contrasting routes; one intricate and slabby, the other direct and forceful. Cyclops did look very good indeed.
I'd say 4c/5a borderline (but strenuous and intimidating) for the Fionn Buttress "crux". I certainly felt more doubt over the sketchily-protected 4c moves on the slab, although there is some ambiguity about the best line. I also think that the short corner is worth 4c.
North West Arete - Gimmer
Eliminate A or Gubia Normal (sa gubi, a Mallorca)
Bird on a Wire in Range West, Pembroke - finally did it last August and it was brilliant - not difficult but absolutely absorbing climbing all the way up, also taking into consideration the access issues and the abbing into a zawn.
The other one is Necromancer at Goblin Combe which i finally led a couple months ago - yes it is polished, yes it is a b*gger but it was great - i had nearly got to second it twice years ago but both times my leaders had backed off at the going left bit which i found easy. And with a perplexing finish - I know i need to get there, but how do i get there? conundrum.
Just thought of another one - Pink 'un at Saddle Head, Pembroke - lovely lovely climbing.
Also there is Little Sepulcure(?)in The Pass - a bit of an uphill trek to get to but well worth it.
Eliminate A (Dow), Eagle Front (Buttermere), Blue Sky (Pembs), Direct Route (Mot)
Old Man of Stoer
> South Face Direct at Chair Ladder for sure.
Yes, a brilliant and underrated route, I think the less than inspiring name is one of the reasons its under-rated.
The Angel's Girdle at Wintours was awesome.
Scotland: Great Prow (OK not the best but certainly most memorable)
England: Tough call between Diocese, Overhanging Bastion or Engineers Slab. Probably Diocese, just
Wales: Surprised others haven't come up with this yet but probably Lavaredo. Blue Sky runs a close second.
> The Angel's Girdle at Wintours was awesome.
I'd agree with that. Way, way better than expected.
That's not even the best VS on White Ghyll! Go and do Haste Not.
An interesting point that's shown up in this thread is that factors affect people's perception of what makes a "good" climb are a) the company you do it with, and b) the weather. Thinking about it these are very much part of the reason why we climb, and have as much bearing on the perception of "enjoyment" as does the quality of the actual climb/rock.
"You can also have a throughly good time on a route that isn't good."
..."Or conversely have a right mare on a route that is good. Can think of occasions when I've bitten off more than I can chew or climbed when hungover when this has been the case.
Sometimes I've been aware of how sharply my experience of a route contrasts with my partner's - I loved getting soaked by waves on Right Angle, brilliant adventure - my partner (probably sensibly) wasn't so enthused!"
Grade creep is excusable when it prevents sandbagging, but this is not such a case - but don't get me started on why Tatra at Swanage is still VS.
Exactly my memory, and feelings about it.
Hard to choose a favourite, but here are a few:
Satan's Slit, June Crack, Hiccup (Buachaille)
Clean Sweep (Hell's Lum Crag)
South Ridge Direct, Hammer (Arran)
King Bee (Creag Dubh)
Giant's Cave Buttress (Avon Gorge)
Whither Wether (Cobbler)
The Groove (Dunkeld)
If we're talking Cornwall, Little Brown Jug is nowhere near as good as South Face Direct on Chair Ladder.
Ok, it was Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow :-)
I thought the winner was something bizarre like Suspension Flake? Or was that a different poll.
I read this thread and then thought 'I've not done any multi-pitch VS routes!'
So, my favourite VS is going to be sinlge pitch grit, probably a toss up between Qien Sabe, Gargoyle Flake and Gunpowder Crack (all at Bamford)
Is botterills slab VS ?
F route and northwest arete is a cracking VS combo !!
I suggested Night Watch within an hour of the original post :-)
Sam Marks suggested it too.
Mississippi Buttress Direct?
Led p1 of Diocese, flailed my way up the very wet chimney into shit cave. Then seconded the lovely traverse. So good.
LBJ was just continuously perfect climbing the whole way. Nice
South Face Direct felt pretty straight up, but good good climbing :)
I thought Little Brown jug didnt have a 5a move unless you blocked the handhold with an unneccesary runner. Tough but fair VS and utterly brilliant.
Still no mention of The Edge at Loudon Hill, the best VS I know. You climb up the edge of a flake that sticks out five metres from the face. The exposure is intense and it is a bit bold (but safe,) but it is the rock feature that makes it great.
South Ridge Direct of the Rosa Pinnacle. No contest - though I've not done Fionn Buttress!
I think I have to agree with the OP that the Old Man of Stoer is the best VS I've ever done. It took two visits for the weather to permit the sea crossing BECAUSE IT'S AN ISLAND!! You then have 5 pitches of 'grit style' climbing which is the easiest route to the summit of the island and then you've got a wild ab off! All factors in I don't think you can beat it, or not easily anyway!
Regarding best HVS - I did the Cyclops last week and it's pretty damn good, but not a patch on Chequers Buttress!
lost horizons - and good value for the grade - more a personal best really but still a brilliant route!
Can't decide. They were 'best' for different reasons.
Single pitch has to be a toss up between Armorican, Scavenger or Lost Horizon.
Multi pitch, probably Mur y Niwl, with Anvil Chorus coming a close second. Haven't done any multipitch VS in the Lakes yet though.
I agree South Ridge Direct as good long VS and seem to remember a wee fright at the top of either Y or S crack!.
Closer to hand I quite like Citadel too, as a long and committing VS mountaineering route with amazing situations....
I enjoy long multi-pitch VS's on big crags rather than short single pitch routes!
Single pitch: Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow, Lancs - do before the crack gets any wider!
Multi Pitch: Eliminate C at Dow Crag
Three Pebble Slab at Frogatt
I always thought it was going to be a soft touch E1, then some wag said it's HVS, when I solo'd it I called it VS - but that's 'cos I'm a knobhead ;-)
Another vote for South Ridge Direct. Friends who have done Fionn Buttress were raving about it too.
> The Angel's Girdle at Wintours was awesome.
I'd be inclined to agree with that, it was one of my first outdoor routes having only climbed indoors and about mid way though it dawned on me falling off seconding would be the same as falling of leading it. I must go back and sample it again now that i'm more experienced.
It looks like its only me that was dissapointed with S.Ridge Direct. I just rememember it as being a bit of a bimble with only one or two very short bits ot climbing interest.
That said, even in rain and with rucksacks we soloed to the S crack and for some of the way after the Y crack, so though it was long, it wasn't sustained.
In fact it's not even the third, 4th or 5th best VS on White Gill, try White Ghyll Wall, Hitcher and Moss Wall first!
I did it in the rain too, and we aided the Y Cracks so badly that we had to wave away a rescue helicopter that came in really close because we looked in so much trouble.
In reply to the thread:
Has anyone mentioned Scabbard on Etchachan yet? The best VS I've done in Scotland
Mur-v-Niwl http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29164 is a belter for wales.
Though for a valley route in Wales, Laverado is an unsung Gem. I remember being on the belay stance and having a long and drawn out discussion along the lines of "A VS can't possibly go up there". But it does and it's ace...
A few routes spring to mind:
Valkyrie at the Roaches
Little Brown Jug at Bosigran
Freedom at Wintour's Leap
The Angel's Girdle at Wintour's Leap
Curving Crack at Cloggy
Diocese at Chair Ladder
Immediate answer before reading the read. Blue sky, pembroke.
But I like Eliminate A, Eagle front, great slab on cloggy, munich climb on tryfan the shroud on black crag borrowdale and arch slab, gower
I did Gimmer Crack at the end of April and for my money that's a far better route. Perfect line, sustained standard of climbing with spicy bit's on each pitch :-)
and Striptease isn't bad for the price also,
another favourite would be Rap, Gogarth great spot big holds plenty of gear and it's on Gogarth , have a mentioned that :)
Rap Gogarth i remember as been very good.
Locally Walewska great.
Off topic, but the worst 3 star VS i've done is Inkerman Groove at Chudleigh - I don't see what all the fuss is about
Corrugation Corner, Lovers Leap, California - it's the best VS in the Universe!
One of the best was Mickeldore Grooves on Scafell East and a perfect venue for this weather. Hard start though - I needed to aid it as a second.
I'd say Fionn Buttress blows the tits off South Ridge Direct, and the latter isn't exactly bad.
Same here. In England Botterill's Slab was a superb day out. Can't think of Welsh VS I've done that stands out.
Pah! It's not even the best VS in california. The Magician is better in the Needles. Id say some of the better Tuolumne big 5.7s and bold 5.6's would give it a run for its money as well.
Solar Slab, Red Rocks, NV with a start up Going Nuts.
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