/ Trad rack for limestone/slate

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jdawg_85 - on 30 Apr 2012
I know this has been done to death, but I canít find a thread with the info Iím after.

Iím looking to build a trad rack, mostly for limestone and slate. Ignoring slingdraws and the like (Iíve got that covered), what would the good folks of UKC recommend?

I currently have a set of WC rocks, DMM offsets and torque nuts.

Cheers all.

J
Luke Brooks - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to jdawg_85: Both rock types are nut intensive. For longer pitches (25m+) I would recommend another set of standard shape nuts and some micro-wires. Small-medium cams are useful but know their limitations on limestone. It takes a bit more experience than on other rock types to know if a cam is good or not. You'll need lots of draws, at least 12.
beardy mike - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to jdawg_85: Have you get the full set of offsets? Also some straight taper micro's, and some cams probably in camalot 0.3-2 range. Other than that you're done. My rack consists of this:

1 set of DMM wall nuts
1 full set of offset nuts
2-3 micronuts
#1,2 Metolius TCU (any microcam will do the job, but narrow heads are essential on lime to suit the small pockets you get)
0.4,0.5,0.75,1,2 camalots
4 slings (mainly for trees and belays)
10 quickdraws with 4 sling draws, 2 long and 2 standard.
jdawg_85 - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to mike kann: awesome, thanks! I've got the 7-11 set of offsets.
beardy mike - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to jdawg_85: If you're on a budget and starting at lowish grades, start from 0.5 camalot and go up. You can always buy the smaller cams later, although with the torque nuts you may be able to get away without for a while?
Kemics - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to jdawg_85:

I seem to find a lot of thread runners, I carry 2 x 60 and 2 x 120 and it's not uncommon to place them all on a route.
nniff - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to jdawg_85:

Pretty much as above.

I'd go with:

RP's or similar, 0-3
A set of Micro-whatevers (sub Rock 1 size)
Then make sure that you got 3 each of Rock/Wallnut 1,2,3 and 4 and 2 of 5,6,7. Clearly, if your offsets cover some of these sizes, then don't over-burden yourself with more duplicates



On top of that, I have a rock 8 and 9 and cams 0.5 to 2.5. The big Rocks are old fashioned, wide ones, so buying new I'd probably add in a 10.

That's done me for years, and the two smallest cams are fairly recent additions.
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The Ex-Engineer - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to jdawg_85:
> I've got the 7-11 set of offsets.

As far as limestone routes are concerned, then more standard small/medium wires are needed. As a minimum another set of wires 1-7 would be very welcome on longer pitches.

However, for slate you need some genuine micro wires and the 'gold standard' is certainly to get the Brass Offsets in the smallest sizes 0-4. Additional straight taper micros on top of that can be useful but I'd happily climb most slate routes with nothing more (as far as wires go!) than the 5 smallest brass offsets and a single set of standard Rock/Wallnuts.

On limestone I'd try most routes with 3 sets of standard wires in most sizes, 2 medium hexes and perhaps 2 medium/large cams. However on slate on a similar grade I'd feel distinctly uncomfortable without a full set of small to medium cams, including dedicated microcams - WC Zero cams size 3-6 (or the equivalent Master Cams or Aliens) - and I routinely carry doubles of WC Zeros 5 & 6 (Friend 0 & 0.5).

The two rock types are different in terms gear and to be honest are a difficult pair to design a rack for. For limestone, a set of DMM Wallnut 1-8 and size 2 & 3 cams would set you up fairly nicely where as none of them are particularly useful for slate where you basically need a set of microwires and as many smaller cams as you can buy or borrow.

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