/ Trad rack for limestone/slate
Iím looking to build a trad rack, mostly for limestone and slate. Ignoring slingdraws and the like (Iíve got that covered), what would the good folks of UKC recommend?
I currently have a set of WC rocks, DMM offsets and torque nuts.
1 set of DMM wall nuts
1 full set of offset nuts
#1,2 Metolius TCU (any microcam will do the job, but narrow heads are essential on lime to suit the small pockets you get)
4 slings (mainly for trees and belays)
10 quickdraws with 4 sling draws, 2 long and 2 standard.
I seem to find a lot of thread runners, I carry 2 x 60 and 2 x 120 and it's not uncommon to place them all on a route.
Pretty much as above.
I'd go with:
RP's or similar, 0-3
A set of Micro-whatevers (sub Rock 1 size)
Then make sure that you got 3 each of Rock/Wallnut 1,2,3 and 4 and 2 of 5,6,7. Clearly, if your offsets cover some of these sizes, then don't over-burden yourself with more duplicates
On top of that, I have a rock 8 and 9 and cams 0.5 to 2.5. The big Rocks are old fashioned, wide ones, so buying new I'd probably add in a 10.
That's done me for years, and the two smallest cams are fairly recent additions.
As far as limestone routes are concerned, then more standard small/medium wires are needed. As a minimum another set of wires 1-7 would be very welcome on longer pitches.
However, for slate you need some genuine micro wires and the 'gold standard' is certainly to get the Brass Offsets in the smallest sizes 0-4. Additional straight taper micros on top of that can be useful but I'd happily climb most slate routes with nothing more (as far as wires go!) than the 5 smallest brass offsets and a single set of standard Rock/Wallnuts.
On limestone I'd try most routes with 3 sets of standard wires in most sizes, 2 medium hexes and perhaps 2 medium/large cams. However on slate on a similar grade I'd feel distinctly uncomfortable without a full set of small to medium cams, including dedicated microcams - WC Zero cams size 3-6 (or the equivalent Master Cams or Aliens) - and I routinely carry doubles of WC Zeros 5 & 6 (Friend 0 & 0.5).
The two rock types are different in terms gear and to be honest are a difficult pair to design a rack for. For limestone, a set of DMM Wallnut 1-8 and size 2 & 3 cams would set you up fairly nicely where as none of them are particularly useful for slate where you basically need a set of microwires and as many smaller cams as you can buy or borrow.
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