/ shipley glen - your honest opinions please

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pebbles - on 30 Apr 2012
what is the warts and all view of shipley glen? I'v heard from some sources that its a bit of a car crime blackspot, and a bit on the 'grimy urban' side. I'v also read that the landings tend to be on the pointy side and its all a bit fingery and highball. Other people seem to really like the place. So a)how likely would I be to come back and find my side windows smashed in, and b)how good is it as a venue for low grade (v0 - v2) bouldering punters?
chalkyjim - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles:

For that grade it's probably one of the best in Yorkshire. And as for car crime I wouldn't say its any worse than parking it in any normal town. Just make sure nowts on view. One pad is usually enough unless you try the higher stuff at the lower end.
Give it a go and if you don't like it go somewhere else
Ava Adore - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles:

I climb up to V0 and had a pretty good day there. Yes, some of the landings are pointy and yes, there are some high problems but there's enough stuff to play on if you don't like those parts.

Can't comment on the car crime - ours certainly wasn't broken into! I think it's a pretty picturesque spot.
Enty - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles:

It's car crime reputation comes not from climber's cars getting broken into but from stolen cars being rolled over the top - there was always at least one over the edge when I used to climb there in the 80's and 90's.

E
andy guppy - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles:
Great venue...cafe and pub on site, range of grades[can be a little highball!] and no cars over the edge for a few years:]
Start near The Glen Arete and work your way south.
Guppy
JimmyKay - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Red Baron was one of the best climbs I've done at the grade. I really like the coarse sandstone.
Jon Stewart - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles: From a recent thread:

In reply to MHutch:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> However, although a lot of people are quite happy with the crags on the doorstep - Shipley Glen, Baildon etc - they are definitely more 'urban' in character.

> Haha. I have been described as a 'crag snob' in the past, and my previous posts about Shipley Glen have been less than complementary (to be fair, when I went, the first thing I came across as I approached the problems was a man, surrounded by glass and crisp packets, being fellated). Of course, I appreciate that it has some great climbing, but climbing for me is as much about being in great surroundings as the moves themselves.

So to summarise: good climbing, but 'rather urban'. On the dump-o-meter, it's not going to hit the top (as I believe West Vale would, but I've not been); if you're used to climbing on nice crags in the Peak etc, it's pretty dirty.
pebbles - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: that was my suspicion! and to put it in context, my usual bouldering haunts are almscliff, brimham, caley, scugdale...
Phill Mitch - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles: I have seen more cars broken into at at Almscliff than Shipley Glen.
If you go to Baildon first then on to Shipley Glen you will feel like you are in paradise! I have been going to Shipley for years and love some of the problems there. Having said that, I have seen cars rolled over the edge and burnt out. It's just one of the nearest crags to me so is on my most regular crags list.
pebbles - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Phill Mitch: now baildon - someone once told me the dogshit at baildon wasnt a problem because most of it was in the nettles and brambles. And he meant that as a defence of the place!
Phill Mitch - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles: Most of the crag is in nettles and brambles as well.
red.stiletto - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to pebbles:
Prefer it to Caley, better for low grades than almscliff, though not as scenic, obvs.
Have had a few lovely days there in summer, ice cream van and everything. Nothing grotty about it at all!
ayoungblakelock - on 29 May 2012
In reply to pebbles: At your grade, the Glenn is amazing. Start atchristines horror and work your way along. Within 20m you'll have done 3-5 classics and it keeps going. not an amazing amount at harder grades so get there while its still a challenge/fun.
re the car situation, it's not great but it's no worse than leaving your car in any other town centre.
dunnyg - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Woah there petal. Westvale is not a dump. The walls are covered in graffiti but the actual place is nice. I suggest you visit for an evenings bouldering, before you go insulting the good name of westvale.
phleppy on 29 May 2012
In reply to pebbles: I visited once, my car was'nt broken or damaged, there were plenty of walkers about even in the dark depths of winter & your not that far from the car most of the time anyway. I took a lunch break in my car to observe anything that looked dodgy but all looked innocent enough. Obviously it will be a venue that has 'wrong place, wrong time' tag but you could say that about loads of places & i made sure it was a weekday morning i arrived.
I got around 30 problems done in a short day as it got dark at 4ish.
I liked it actually, it will always be very memorable to me, i can see others complaining about it but there was no one else along the edge & no chavs or anything like that. I just had one mat & i thought the landings were good.
Jon Stewart - on 30 May 2012
In reply to dunnyg: Well I'm moving up to West Yorks soon and may have to recalibrate. I'll let you know which crag attains the top-spot on the West Yorks boulder-dump syringe and johnnie AIDS-a-thon.
koalapie - on 30 May 2012
In reply to pebbles: I thought it one of the best low grade bouldering venues in Yorkshire. Never had any car/theft issues in a handful of visits. Enjoy!
MHutch - on 30 May 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Nice to see my comments getting a repost...

Shipley Glen is a bit marmite (that's not rhyming slang, I think). Some people love it, other people think it's an utter hole. So it's hard to know what you'll think until you rock up there.

It's not that unpleasant a location as it could be given its position between Leeds and Bradford, and in terms of climbing quality, you'll find plenty of worthwhile stuff with reasonable landings.

Unless you've got a habit of leaving your laptop and satnav on the passenger seat of your car, and your rucksack at the other end of the crag while you wander along, you'd be unlucky to suffer crime-wise.

Having said that, the amount of litter, dogshit and broken glass lying around under some of the buttresses last time I went was a bit of a deal-breaker for me, and I probably would drive past it and on for another half hour to get to a crag where I can enjoy the ambiance as much as the climbing.
pebbles - on 30 May 2012
In reply to MHutch: like you, i would find large amounts of litter, dogshite and broken glass a complete turn off - more so than the car crime. the dog eggs are the reason I never go to wetherby!
dunnyg - on 30 May 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Keep me posted :D I recon there are some right crackers to be found...
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hokkyokusei - on 30 May 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to dunnyg) Well I'm moving up to West Yorks soon and may have to recalibrate. I'll let you know which crag attains the top-spot on the West Yorks boulder-dump syringe and johnnie AIDS-a-thon.

That will be Baildon Bank. Just around the corner from Shipley Glen.

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