/ shipley glen - your honest opinions please
For that grade it's probably one of the best in Yorkshire. And as for car crime I wouldn't say its any worse than parking it in any normal town. Just make sure nowts on view. One pad is usually enough unless you try the higher stuff at the lower end.
Give it a go and if you don't like it go somewhere else
I climb up to V0 and had a pretty good day there. Yes, some of the landings are pointy and yes, there are some high problems but there's enough stuff to play on if you don't like those parts.
Can't comment on the car crime - ours certainly wasn't broken into! I think it's a pretty picturesque spot.
It's car crime reputation comes not from climber's cars getting broken into but from stolen cars being rolled over the top - there was always at least one over the edge when I used to climb there in the 80's and 90's.
Great venue...cafe and pub on site, range of grades[can be a little highball!] and no cars over the edge for a few years:]
Start near The Glen Arete and work your way south.
Red Baron was one of the best climbs I've done at the grade. I really like the coarse sandstone.
In reply to MHutch:
> However, although a lot of people are quite happy with the crags on the doorstep - Shipley Glen, Baildon etc - they are definitely more 'urban' in character.
So to summarise: good climbing, but 'rather urban'. On the dump-o-meter, it's not going to hit the top (as I believe West Vale would, but I've not been); if you're used to climbing on nice crags in the Peak etc, it's pretty dirty.
If you go to Baildon first then on to Shipley Glen you will feel like you are in paradise! I have been going to Shipley for years and love some of the problems there. Having said that, I have seen cars rolled over the edge and burnt out. It's just one of the nearest crags to me so is on my most regular crags list.
Prefer it to Caley, better for low grades than almscliff, though not as scenic, obvs.
Have had a few lovely days there in summer, ice cream van and everything. Nothing grotty about it at all!
re the car situation, it's not great but it's no worse than leaving your car in any other town centre.
I got around 30 problems done in a short day as it got dark at 4ish.
I liked it actually, it will always be very memorable to me, i can see others complaining about it but there was no one else along the edge & no chavs or anything like that. I just had one mat & i thought the landings were good.
Nice to see my comments getting a repost...
Shipley Glen is a bit marmite (that's not rhyming slang, I think). Some people love it, other people think it's an utter hole. So it's hard to know what you'll think until you rock up there.
It's not that unpleasant a location as it could be given its position between Leeds and Bradford, and in terms of climbing quality, you'll find plenty of worthwhile stuff with reasonable landings.
Unless you've got a habit of leaving your laptop and satnav on the passenger seat of your car, and your rucksack at the other end of the crag while you wander along, you'd be unlucky to suffer crime-wise.
Having said that, the amount of litter, dogshit and broken glass lying around under some of the buttresses last time I went was a bit of a deal-breaker for me, and I probably would drive past it and on for another half hour to get to a crag where I can enjoy the ambiance as much as the climbing.
That will be Baildon Bank. Just around the corner from Shipley Glen.
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