/ Clwyd Limestone

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stupot1988 - on 30 Apr 2012
Hi everyone me and a few mates are looking to head out for 3 full days climbing in the Llangollen area.... basically looking for any feedback from anybody that has climbed in these areas?
Owen W-G - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to stupot1988:

Dunno what grades you looking for but digitron is amazing e2 best in area
Most crags have free topos on Gary gibsons site
Easiest sport climbing is at Trevor
If I had 3 days I'd only be stopping off enroute to bigger crags further north and west
Duncan Bourne - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to stupot1988:
Llangollen has quite a bit of limestone around in addition to the above post I would add World's End, Twilight Area & Craig Arthur depends on what grades you are looking for. Though as the above poster says, if I had three days in Llangollen I'd head for Snowdon.
The Ivanator - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to stupot1988: I've only stopped off there en route to (or home from) Snowdonia. Borderline was the best Sport route I did at Trevor (F6a+) if you climb harder there are some great Sports lines in the F7s around the region. Of the Trad I've done Kinberg VS 4c at Pinfold stands out, Toccata at Pinfold also looks a great line at VS 5a.
Like others have said if the weather is decent further West it is worth the extra hour of driving to get to the mountain crags.
caradoc - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to stupot1988: Tell us what you're after, the area covers a wide range. I would say if you love climbing limestone then you will get a lot out of Clwyd but if you just want to go climbing then maybe the previous posts are correct in recommending Snowdonia. The weather might be a factor, it's mainly quick drying but there are bits of seepage (worlds end)
David Hooper - on 01 May 2012
In reply to stupot1988: With all due respect - is your logbook current, because if so you are going to find the climbs frustratingly hard and the protection(or lack of) on limestone can be fiddlier to place than on grit. There are some easy well protected (and polished) gems around at severe, but not enough to give you a full day on aany one crag with the exceptions of Pot Hole (sandbags, Maeshafrn and Worlds End.

However if you are comfy climbing sport and know how to rethread safely at the top,there is a lot of fun to be had at Trefor.

Rockfax Clwyd Limestone is good, but web sites like Sportscimbs UK more up to date.

Clwyd is an idyllic place to knock out a few routes in an afternoon or evening if you are local. But as others have said, if you are making a special 3 day road trip, I would hit the eastern and western peak or North Wales - so much moreto go at for you.
mcdougal - on 01 May 2012
In reply to stupot1988:

I've only been to Trevor once to climb on the sport routes there. It wasn't my idea and I wasn't keen on climbing in a quarry but have to say that I found it a really pretty spot with loads of interesting routes (both trad and sport) to go at.
stupot1988 - on 02 May 2012
Thanks all.... I climb around the HVS/E1 no idea on sport grades (but fancy giving it ago) im far from a hardened climber, Thought of hitting the further west mountain crags but not to clued up on Multipitching ect, so I was happy to stick to the lower stuff here as its not to far from what I usually climb in the peak district. Could you reccomend anywhere else that would suit?
The Ivanator - on 02 May 2012
In reply to stupot1988: If you've got 3 days and want some varied single pitch experiences up to E1 I'd move around a little. In North Wales start in the far West and work your way back to shorten the drive home. First day at Holyhead Mountain (Tension VS**, Teaser VS*, Black and Tan VS*, King Bee Crack HVS***, Bruvvers HVS**) a day in the Llanberis Slate quarries (Equinox VS**, Solstice HVS*, Seamstress VS***, Seams the Same E1***, Looning the Tube HVS/E1**) and a day at Pinfold (Kinberg VS***, Atlantic Traveller VS**, Toccata VS**, ECV VS**, Progressions of Power [variant] HVS**) on the way out.
Different rock types, varied climbing styles, fantastic routes, only downside is a major investment in guidebooks on top of petrol ...but you'll be back!
colina - on 02 May 2012
In reply to stupot1988: the trevor area is a beautiful spot overlooking llangollan and the hills ,you can park your car high up and a short walk in leads up to a beautiful aspect looking down onto the surrounding area.loads of single pitch sport and trad climbs but would advise you to speculate in getting the clwyd limestone book to show you the way.if you look up the user name "joss" he is very knowledgible about this area and im sure would give you a few pointers to enhance your experience of north wales climbng.
i would second going to snowdonia if weather improves (its got to stop raining soon ..please)
stupot1988 - on 02 May 2012
A massive thanks to all of your feed back guys it seems we are going to have to invest in a few guide books and slightly more deisel, but looks like it would be well worth the extra money for a much more fulfilling and varied experience!
caradoc - on 03 May 2012
Clwyd is very good in the grade range VS-E1. The rock is rough natural limestone and situated high above the valley. It is quite underrated as a trad venue, perfect on a sunny evening. Fashions change and at the moment most people prefer Sport on limestone.
ripper - on 03 May 2012
In reply to stupot1988: Kinberg is a nice route but it made me nervous - that whole left side of the hanging corner looks like it's balanced on a small loose block and could be headed for the valley anytime soon... Also, I wouldn't recommend Pinfold if it's windy
simongwyn - on 03 May 2012
In reply to stupot1988:
If I was from Cambridgeshire I wouldn't bother driving to NE Wales for polished, short and insecure limestone climbs (though, as a local, I find it flattering that you'd consider it) - I'd head to Burgundy.

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