/ help for translation: climbing words
-lower-off: do English people sometimes use this, instead of "abseil"?
-stance: is it the same of "belay"? Does the expression "belay stance" really exist?
-niche: can I use "niche" when I mean a small col, where you have to pass to get on the other side of the face?
- how do you english climbers call the particular feature of rock (only granite) like slight flakes, usually unprotectables,that you often find near ridges or other very exposed places? I mean, in french, the "cannelures"...
Thanks to everybody who will help me!I will be happy to give informations about the Mont Blanc conditions in exchange.
We'd use abseil. A lower off is the thing you'd actually abseil from.
Stance, and belay stance would both work. Or just belay.
Niche in this case would probably be a notch. A niche is like a small cave feature.
I think the cannelures would be flutings maybe?
Fluting? More common on grit / sandstone than granite, and sometimes protectable with cams.
A lower-off (the noun) is a fixed anchor that you could abseil from - a relais in French I believe. To lower off (the verb) is what you would do on a single pitch sport route - one climber lowering another once they have topped out.
Stance=belay=belay stance (yes it does exist) - all the same thing. A point where you lower from or where you stop at the end of a pitch. Belay is also a verb as well.
A niche is usually a small cave or depression. If on a ridge you passed around or between gendarmes I would think of the gap between them as a "notch" in the ridge.
No idea on the last one I'm afraid - I don't have a clear picture of what you mean. If you could link to one that might help?
Re lower-off, I interpreted that differently to Mr Spatula above. Agree with him in terms of nouns, but I took you to mean a verb, in which case to me "lowering off" is what you do from the top of a route where your belayer pays out rope to control your descent, with the rope running through the (yes...) "lower-off", whereas "abseiling" is where you yourself have control of your descent, and the rope itself is not running through the "lower-off" as you descend.
Here's a start, I'm sure others will help too (probably more accurately than me, too).
Lower-off (verb): to descend, weight on the rope, with your climbing partner feeding out rope through a belay device etc.
Lower-off (noun): the double bolts/chain etc at the the top of a sport route
Stance: usually means a ledge or whatever where you can construct a belay. Also sometimes used for a resting place in the middle of a pitch. I think 'belay stance' is technically OK (but not used), because the stance is the ledge, whereas the belay is what you contruct with the ropes. I would shout up to my partner "are you at the belay yet?" not "are you at the belay stance yet?".
Niche: not quite a cave.
> -lower-off: do English people sometimes use this, instead of "abseil"?
No, a lower-off is not the same as an abseil. (Lower-off: leader is lowered by the second/belayer with rope running through an anchor at the top of a climb/pitch; abseil: the climber lowers him/herself on a doubled rope from an abseil point.
Does the expression "belay stance" really exist? Rarely used. UK climbers use the term 'belay' to refer to the whole thing.
> We'd use abseil.
A lower off is the thing you'd actually abseil from.
> No. A stance is a place you can stand, a belay is a plce where you can
sorry - took so long to answer that (phone went) that I see loads of ppl above have said more or less the same thing :)
Here is a picture of cannelures:
I think 'flutings' is the best translation.
Also, I found this, which might be useful?
> > Flutings on limestone, on granite perhaps runnels?
Runnels! A much better answer!!
For the "flutes" or "runnels", the photo was right, but on limestone. The right word for granit is runnel? sorry I have no photos of these feature to link...
Here are some at Roc de Boef, which I think might be granite?
the thing is, we don't really get runnels (or cannelures) much in the UK - not like those ones anyway, so we don't really need to describe them much in route descriptions...
Here are some granite runnels:
Another problem: "terminus" instead of "bergschrund". I think "terminus" is only about... train stations. That translator is driving me mad... I often climb with english people and none of them ever speaks about "terminus" when we have to cross the last crevasse before an ice wall!
You might want to e mail Luca Signorelli who is (I've always assumed) Italian and a much respected contributor to these forums who writes excellent English.(you can find him by searching users names on this site) He probably knows most of the words in translation but if not he would probably point you in the right direction.
I don't think there is an English word for bergshrund, mostly the German word is used, except for Francophiles who would say rimaye, but they are in a minority. Never heard the word "terminus"... could be from across the Atlantic?
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