/ THE LOWDOWN: Pearson and Ciavaldini repeats Aria, 8a+ EXPO
The big project James is talking about is Pietro Del Pra's, until now, unrepeated multi-pitch Aria on the face of Monte Plumare,...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67098
What does EXPO mean?
And Hi Dave hope you are well :-)
So EXPO means exposed?
How about SEXPO for slightly exposed :)
You can get nicked for sexual exposure.
NO! Too rainy. Wanted to get over your way this week. Back to work tonight :-( No sexpo for me.
In fact as I understood it a minimum of 7m between bolts since the route can be climbed with 6 quickdraws and includes pitches up to 45m so unless all the bolts are placed equidistant (rather unlikely) there are likely to be some significantly further apart, sounds a bit runout to me!
Nice one James (not me but Pearson)
Wow, that's bold. I guess that would put it into E9 territory if we still gave trad grades to bolted routes.
> So EXPO means exposed?
No. It means run out or bold.
"No. It means run out or bold."
Expo is the word used in Italian for bold or run-out, it's used for boulders as well as for routes.
The runout-ness is expressed by the S grade of the route, there are many routes of similar quality to Aria along this coast (from where we live you get to the start of Aria in a couple of hours) but easier and with closer bolting see http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3061
I am pleased that James and Caroline's visit (they climbed Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili as well) will make this section of the Sardinian coast better known to climbers. J+C popped round for a beer while they were here, and James as they were leaving said, "We'll leave you to your corner of paradise." In fact in Baunei they are offering discounts to climbers and other outdoor sports people, precisely because they want to promote outdoor tourism. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=502090&v=1#x6844583 The local councillors even came to help us clean the old charcoal burners' path which for the first time in history we rode down with our mountainbikes (well, 80% of it) as shown in http://i.ukc2.com/t/197246.jpg
Yes, the climbs along this coast are in stunning and wild locations with an ambience I suspect unique in Europe. And they are not by any means all "expo" - plenty to go at without terrifying runouts, including on the magnificent Punta Giradilli.
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