/ THE LOWDOWN: Pearson and Ciavaldini repeats Aria, 8a+ EXPO

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Björn Pohl - UKC - on 03 May 2012
Caroline Ciavaldini reaching the end of the 2nd 8a+ pitch of Aria, Sardinia, 3 kbAfter a very, very long ferry back to the mainland, our time in Sardinia has come to an end, thankfully with a succesful ascent of our biggest project to date.
The big project James is talking about is Pietro Del Pra's, until now, unrepeated multi-pitch Aria on the face of Monte Plumare,...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67098
Dave 88 - on 03 May 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

What does EXPO mean?
JimboWizbo - on 03 May 2012
In reply to Dave 88: beat me to it
puppythedog on 03 May 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo: Seems to mean that the bolts are separated making it very exposed. 7metres between bolts.

And Hi Dave hope you are well :-)
JimboWizbo - on 03 May 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
So EXPO means exposed?
How about SEXPO for slightly exposed :)
puppythedog on 03 May 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo: I don't know for definite that was my assumption, I think sexpo should be reserved for sex expositions :-0
Dave 88 - on 03 May 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo:

You can get nicked for sexual exposure.
Dave 88 - on 03 May 2012
In reply to puppythedog:

NO! Too rainy. Wanted to get over your way this week. Back to work tonight :-( No sexpo for me.
Ian Patterson on 03 May 2012
In reply to puppythedog:
> (In reply to JimboWizbo) Seems to mean that the bolts are separated making it very exposed. 7metres between bolts.
>

In fact as I understood it a minimum of 7m between bolts since the route can be climbed with 6 quickdraws and includes pitches up to 45m so unless all the bolts are placed equidistant (rather unlikely) there are likely to be some significantly further apart, sounds a bit runout to me!
puppythedog on 03 May 2012
In reply to Dave 88: We need to head to Goblin Combe! Rain has been rank :-( enough hijacking :-)


Nice one James (not me but Pearson)
puppythedog on 03 May 2012
In reply to Ian Patterson: Yes so that would put it into hi E grade territory giving it an adjectival grade to go with 7+ metre runouts.
Jimbo C - on 03 May 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Wow, that's bold. I guess that would put it into E9 territory if we still gave trad grades to bolted routes.
Robert Durran - on 03 May 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC)
> So EXPO means exposed?

No. It means run out or bold.
Peter Herold - on 05 May 2012
"So EXPO means exposed?"
"No. It means run out or bold."

Expo is the word used in Italian for bold or run-out, it's used for boulders as well as for routes.

The runout-ness is expressed by the S grade of the route, there are many routes of similar quality to Aria along this coast (from where we live you get to the start of Aria in a couple of hours) but easier and with closer bolting see http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3061

I am pleased that James and Caroline's visit (they climbed Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili as well) will make this section of the Sardinian coast better known to climbers. J+C popped round for a beer while they were here, and James as they were leaving said, "We'll leave you to your corner of paradise." In fact in Baunei they are offering discounts to climbers and other outdoor sports people, precisely because they want to promote outdoor tourism. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=502090&v=1#x6844583 The local councillors even came to help us clean the old charcoal burners' path which for the first time in history we rode down with our mountainbikes (well, 80% of it) as shown in http://i.ukc2.com/t/197246.jpg

ciao Peter
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Robert Durran - on 06 May 2012
In reply to Peter Herold:
> James as they were leaving said, "We'll leave you to your corner of paradise."

Yes, the climbs along this coast are in stunning and wild locations with an ambience I suspect unique in Europe. And they are not by any means all "expo" - plenty to go at without terrifying runouts, including on the magnificent Punta Giradilli.

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