/ Comfy,wide,all day Rock shoes?

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dek - on 13 May 2012
Boreal Jokers, or Evolv Defy? For big wide feet, and probably on all day granite, mostly around 4 c 5a...ish.
Any user opinions welcome !
Thanks!
Fluvial - on 13 May 2012
In reply to dek:

Used the Defy - Have wide(ish) feet for that level of climbing they'll be okay never climbed on granite but done Gabbro in the lakes and they were OK
bouldery bits - on 13 May 2012
In reply to dek:

Climbing in Jokers is like climbing in wellies (in my experience).

Defy all the way.
bouldery bits - on 13 May 2012
In reply to dek: I've got wide feet, so can recommend: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2334 for a comfy, protective all day shoe; or http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2947 for a slightly higher performing, but less supportive shoe.
NickP - on 13 May 2012
Try Red Chilli Sausalitos

The Ex-Engineer - on 13 May 2012
In reply to dek: I think Defy are superb but you need to be aware they are a very soft shoe. I've happily climbed and abseiled 23 pitches of granite in them in a day but I know others who find them too lacking in support for all day use. Especially for people with larger feet, I would not necessarily recommend them for what you want.

Jokers are completely different - they are a much more traditional shoe with a much stiffer mid-sole. In a similar vein are Evolv Quest AF and possibly Red Chili Spirits.

What size are you?
Captain Gear - on 13 May 2012
In reply to dek:

I've got a pair of Defy's. I mainly use them for my indoor and easy trad shoes. It's not that I need the precision for my harder leads, it is more that the Defy's don't offer enough support (for me) when standing on small holds.

I used a have a pair of 5.10 Gallelos which are a similar shoe, but slightly stiffer. They might be worth a look.

I have wide feet. The Gallellos were a better fit from new, whilst the defy's take a bit of stretching.

Other shoes that would be worth looking at are:

5.10 Newtons
5.10 Heucos
Evolv Bandit VCR

HTH
dek - on 13 May 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
I'm around a 48 ish, but have noticed those little hard heel lumps Toby wrote about last week have developed. They steal a size, and shred the shoe inner eventually.
Got some old Scarpas (?) and Sausalitos. The bendy sounding Evolv shoe sounds interesting, will try the Scarpa mentioned too if I can find a stockist up here.
Many thanks for the advice folks appreciated!
southern sam on 13 May 2012
I really rate my Mythos, great pair of shoes. May be worth a look?

Sam
Skip - on 13 May 2012
In reply to dek:

hard heel lumps?

what are they ?
dek - on 13 May 2012
In reply to Skip:
Might be named 'heel spurs'? Caused by years of wearing I'll fitting big boots, and too tight rock boots!
mkean - on 14 May 2012
In reply to dek:
Depends on your feet. Personally I thought the jokers were pretty awful but each to their own. The Defy are very soft and will be tiring on a whole day on smaller holds if you haven't got strong feet. I'd be inclined to go stiffer for an all day shoe and so 5.10 Galileos or Anasazi Verdes would probably be my choice but I've got 5.10 shaped feet :-)
In reply to dek: From my extensive medical knowledge (googling "I've got a lump on my heel") I believe heel spurs are actually under the bottom of heel - i.e. against the sole of your foot and cause pain there. The lumps on the back might be "Haglund's deformity" - I think that's what I have, but I think it can also be a different problem to do with the achilles, that creates pain there.

Having said all that, I've not seen a doctor about it beyond asking an old mate over Facebook! So treat it all with a half tonne of salt.

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