/ Llanberis Resoles - top service
Also, thanks to the guys at V12
Do let me know how they work out for you, keeping a good fit on a resole is a tricky business and feedback (good or bad) is the only way I can make sure I'm doing a good job.
Btw the Cromlech was looking a bit wet today, left wall was dry, the corner soaking.
> Also, thanks to the guys at V12
*twice as cheap* or *half the cost* ???
As far as I know there is no one resoling in the SW, (I would have been but moved from Cornwall up to North Wales), by post there is me (Llanberis Resoles), Feet First, Cheshire Shoe Repairs and Lancashire Sports Repair.
They should last the same amount of time, I resole with 5:10 that I find lasts longer than the stock vibram rubber my boots came with.
The sole and toe rand on a well done resole should last as long as the original. Its worth bearing in mind that the upper, the rest of the rand and the inside of your shoe is not going to get any newer though! On some old shoes the rand has stretched and bagged out so much that its hard to resole them well. If the shoe aside from the sole/toe rand is in good condition then I'd say a resole is well worth it (but then my view is bound to be slightly biased). If you can do them before the rands need repairing then even better.
Rubber does play a part in durability. A stiffer rubber will last longer than a softer stickier one, 5mm will obviously last longer than 4mm. Although personally I'd say avoid 5mm rubber as the difference in sensitivity between 4 and 5mm is surprisingly large.
As to the worth or a resole it does also of course depend on what the shoes are. You can resole a pair of Solutions 5 times over for the price of a new pair. If your looking at a new pair of all-day comfort Red Chili's on sale for £40 then its a different story.
I found the boots i had resoled lasted ages, compared to the red chili rubber 5.10 stealth is like steel.
After one resole though the rest of the boot is normally knackered I find.
Do you really think a small company like Red Chili has its own Rubber??
I bet its just Vibram or something and they gave it a new name.
Have you used it?
It certainly smells different when you grind it!
All rubbers smell pretty gross when they heat up but Evolv's ecoTrax is particularly sickening, 5.10's C4 is quite unique and also bad....
as to who makes Red Chili's RX I have no idea as I've never bought it.
Had some Red Chilli X-Cube years ago and the rubber to me seemed to be ordinary vibram XSV. Wasn“t any better or worse than the one on Sportivas.
What is the 'rand' of a shoe?
Most of my shoes get replaced because the spot where my lanky big toe is gets a hole. Does their service cover repairing that?
The rand is the bit your lanky big toe is putting the hole through! It's the rubber that wraps around the front and side of the shoe as opposed to the sole which is only on the bottom, (unless you have a pair or Speedsters or the new Spiders where things start getting a bit mixed up). About 4 out of 5 resoles need the rand fixing.
Here's a good picture that shows it. It also explains the difference between board lasted and slip lasted shoes for anyone that's interested.
Sorry Mr.K not at the moment, probably some time in the near future though.
Now with any luck it will rain over the long weekend and I can catch up with the backlog that built up during the amazing weather. Great to finally climb some of the slow-to-dry classics though!
Have a great weekend
Got any rubber suitable for my Fire Classics??
Have you got any xs grip yet? Thanks.
> Got any rubber suitable for my Fire Classics??
5.10 Stealth C4 will be perfect for the Fire's. I was wondering if there would still be any of these around! I keep wishing I'd hung on to my EB's...
> Have you got any xs grip yet? Thanks.
The distributor says it's arriving this week but as it involves the usual Italian efficiency I'd not put money on that.
The rand on the spirits (and similar red chili's) seem to stretch loads more than other shoes, if the sides have bagged out way past the sole it hard to put a good shape back on them. This is the main thing that makes a resole tricky (more so than a huge hole in the toe). That combined with the fact you can normally pick up Spirits for about £40 online in a sale and I'd say it worth thinking hard about.
On the other side of the argument, if they are shoes you really love as the fit has changed to suit your foot well then I'd say it worth a resole.
I quite like them, the shape has stretched out to maximum comfort - and its still cheaper than buying new ones. They're only used for aid climbing, so if I can climb a grade or two better in them than in guide tennies its all good.
Now what's the best way to wash shoes before sending them to you?
I'd always stick to a hand wash, warm soapy water and a tooth brush (an old one preferably) to clean out inside around the toes, and don't put them on a hot radiator to dry. The adhesive used in climbing shoes is heat sensitive so with a very hot radiator or hot machine wash you risk de-lamination.
Thats just my opinion, I know some people do use the washing machine and get away with it but personally I don't.
In reply to auld al:
Quite true auld al, thanks for pointing it out and giving me the chance to respond.
I did want to keep my prices below his but £25 and £35 is just how it has worked out now I have had time to really see how long it takes and what all the true costs involved are.
I'm still the cheapest for a sole only (or for sole and rand if you are dropping off at V12, ie no postage costs, which is a large part of my business). Still cheaper than Feet First and LSR on every count too.
To begin with I felt that as I've just started out I couldn't charge as much as the others! However the feedback I've been getting so far (including from strong local climbers who's opinion counts for a lot to me) has been so encouraging I felt I was able to charge a fair rate.
I know I'll loose some trade to Cheshire for the extra few pounds, I accept that. I also know I've picked up lots of trade from him and the others resolers, particularly with performance shoes where people haven't been happy with the results before.
The soles are ok, I havent gone through them yet
Probably, but best to email me a photo first. If they are that bad I'd say you'd need a strong emotional attachment to the shoes to make it worth while :)
> Have you got any xs grip yet?
Yes, XS Grip in stock now (3.5mm)
Another thumbs up for Torquil at Llanberis Resoles.
The rubber went through to the rand on my Katanas, a week before I'm off on a week long climbing trip.
He bumped my shoes up the queue (sorry everyone else!), sent me two texts to let me know he had received the shoes and done the job, and managed to resole the shoes and send them out within 24hours. Amazing service and peace of mind.
I've not been able to test them out yet - twisted ankle! - but his communication and general service was top notch.
Will give some more feedback after a week climbing in them!
...a few pairs are in Lofoten now, some others en route to an expedition in Greenland, had some good pics back from Ceuse, some bouldering in Switzerland etc etc
Oh well, if I'm lucky I may squeeze a couple of pitches in on the slate between showers this week.
F*ckin @ell Torquill, what a service!!! only posted my katanas to you on tues, they were back on friday!! with a fantastic job done, used them today a longridge and they were great, will use them at stoney tomorrow!!
Thanks for great turnround
Nick B (Bond not Band) lol
Ah, yes Mr Bond. I've been expecting you. Do my T Rocks need re-soling yet??
No Steve not yet!!!
But they do need paying for!!!!!!
they worked really well on Moonraker and I lived and didnt die!!!
see you next week!!!
Great price, quality and speedy service. Torquil's work not only revived the toe rubber but the fit as well! Fit as new. Will definitely use again.
Elsewhere on the site
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more