/ Llanberis Resoles - top service

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highclimber - on 14 May 2012
Just had my 5.10s resoled at Llanberis resoles and they've done a fantasic job and at £25 for a pair they're almost half as cheap as feet first!

Thanks

Also, thanks to the guys at V12
nawface - on 14 May 2012
In reply to highclimber:

Tried mine out for the first time today, good job well done. Here's the link for anyone who wants it.

http://www.llanberisresoles.com/
highclimber - on 14 May 2012
In reply to nawface: mine are going to get christened tomorrow on the cromlech!
torquil on 14 May 2012
In reply to highclimber:

Do let me know how they work out for you, keeping a good fit on a resole is a tricky business and feedback (good or bad) is the only way I can make sure I'm doing a good job.

Btw the Cromlech was looking a bit wet today, left wall was dry, the corner soaking.
highclimber - on 14 May 2012
In reply to torquil: I tried them on and they don't feel much different. Thanks for the heads up, might head to Tremadog in that case!


regards
Wide_Mouth_Frog - on 14 May 2012
In reply to highclimber:
> Just had my 5.10s resoled at Llanberis resoles and they've done a fantasic job and at £25 for a pair they're almost half as cheap as feet first!
>
> Thanks
>
> Also, thanks to the guys at V12

*twice as cheap* or *half the cost* ???
highclimber - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog: half the price i meant.
Sean Kelly - on 14 May 2012
In reply to highclimber: Can anyone recommend anywhere in the SW for resoles?
highclimber - on 14 May 2012
In reply to Sean Kelly: Post them to Torquil at llanberis resoles.
torquil on 15 May 2012
In reply to Sean Kelly:

As far as I know there is no one resoling in the SW, (I would have been but moved from Cornwall up to North Wales), by post there is me (Llanberis Resoles), Feet First, Cheshire Shoe Repairs and Lancashire Sports Repair.
Voltemands - on 15 May 2012
In reply to highclimber: Can anyone comment on the longevity of a resole, does it typically match that of the original or is it accepted that the life span is shorter? I understand that this relies on technique and the original durability, but I'm just tryig to figure out if it's worth resoling or buying new.
CurlyStevo - on 15 May 2012
In reply to Voltemands:
They should last the same amount of time, I resole with 5:10 that I find lasts longer than the stock vibram rubber my boots came with.
Terry James Walker - on 15 May 2012
In reply to highclimber: Top job on my La Sportiva Solutions... Which must have been a right faff as my toes were pretty much coming through. Rubber and fit is now miles better than before. They even stuck to the polish in Parasella's!
Cheer Torquil
torquil on 15 May 2012
In reply to Voltemands:

The sole and toe rand on a well done resole should last as long as the original. Its worth bearing in mind that the upper, the rest of the rand and the inside of your shoe is not going to get any newer though! On some old shoes the rand has stretched and bagged out so much that its hard to resole them well. If the shoe aside from the sole/toe rand is in good condition then I'd say a resole is well worth it (but then my view is bound to be slightly biased). If you can do them before the rands need repairing then even better.

Rubber does play a part in durability. A stiffer rubber will last longer than a softer stickier one, 5mm will obviously last longer than 4mm. Although personally I'd say avoid 5mm rubber as the difference in sensitivity between 4 and 5mm is surprisingly large.

As to the worth or a resole it does also of course depend on what the shoes are. You can resole a pair of Solutions 5 times over for the price of a new pair. If your looking at a new pair of all-day comfort Red Chili's on sale for £40 then its a different story.
Voltemands - on 16 May 2012
In reply to torquil: Thanks for your honest response. I'm on my second pair of boots now and they're coming toward the point of needing replacing or repair. I'd imagine I may give the whole resoling thing a go! You'll probably hear from me in the coming months.
gethin_allen on 16 May 2012
In reply to Voltemands:
I found the boots i had resoled lasted ages, compared to the red chili rubber 5.10 stealth is like steel.
After one resole though the rest of the boot is normally knackered I find.
kingofthering on 17 May 2012
In reply to gethin_allen:
Do you really think a small company like Red Chili has its own Rubber??
I bet its just Vibram or something and they gave it a new name.
gethin_allen on 17 May 2012
In reply to kingofthering: there's nothing else on the market like red chili rubber as far as I know, it's nothing like the vibram, 5.10 and mad rock stuff I've use.
Have you used it?
torquil on 17 May 2012
In reply to gethin_allen:
> there's nothing else on the market like red chili rubber as far as I know, it's nothing like the vibram, 5.10 and mad rock

It certainly smells different when you grind it!

All rubbers smell pretty gross when they heat up but Evolv's ecoTrax is particularly sickening, 5.10's C4 is quite unique and also bad....

as to who makes Red Chili's RX I have no idea as I've never bought it.
kingofthering on 18 May 2012
In reply to gethin_allen:
Had some Red Chilli X-Cube years ago and the rubber to me seemed to be ordinary vibram XSV. Wasn“t any better or worse than the one on Sportivas.
Owen W-G - on 18 May 2012
In reply to highclimber:

What is the 'rand' of a shoe?

Most of my shoes get replaced because the spot where my lanky big toe is gets a hole. Does their service cover repairing that?
torquil on 18 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:

The rand is the bit your lanky big toe is putting the hole through! It's the rubber that wraps around the front and side of the shoe as opposed to the sole which is only on the bottom, (unless you have a pair or Speedsters or the new Spiders where things start getting a bit mixed up). About 4 out of 5 resoles need the rand fixing.

Here's a good picture that shows it. It also explains the difference between board lasted and slip lasted shoes for anyone that's interested.

http://www.rubberroomresoles.com/anatomy.htm

highclimber - on 18 May 2012
In reply to torquil: Hey Torquil, I managed to get out the other day with them and apart from the stiffness (which isn't a bad thing) they are like I remember them being when I first got them! I might get my other pair done soon too. do you stock Boreal rubber as I have a pair of Falcons that need a new sole and rand?

regards
IainWhitehouse - on 18 May 2012
In reply to kingofthering: Years ago it was just vibram. Chili moved to their 'own' rubber around four or five years ago iirc.
Mr. K - on 18 May 2012
In reply to torquil: Can you get hold of Evolv rubber chap?
torquil on 20 May 2012
In reply to Mr. K:
> (In reply to torquil) Can you get hold of Evolv rubber chap?

Sorry Mr.K not at the moment, probably some time in the near future though.
Richard Wilson - on 20 May 2012
I have had two pairs done for me & one for one of my kids. We are both very happy with the service & quality of the resole.
charliehl - on 01 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber: Just got my Evolv Shaman back. Sent them Monday and they arrived back today. Quick turnaround. Spoke to Torquil before I sent them. He is really helpful and Being a climber, understands the challenges of keeping the shape of the shoe. They are a little tighter than before I sent them ( closer to when they were new) and look spot on. I will let you know how they climb after the weekend. So far, highly reccomemd for communication, service and price.

Charlie
Chay - on 01 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber: Might look at getting my old Scarpa Visions repaired, they're starting to look a bit tired! Wonderful shoes, can't buy them anymore unfortunately :(
highclimber - on 01 Jun 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: I have the Velcro versions which have worn out. they were uber comfortable (caveat: for me) and very precise. i'd like to get them resoled but where the strap goes thru a buckle has worn and is about to pop.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Chay - on 01 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber: I've had the white and red lace up ones for a while now, like you say very precise and comfortable! You can still pick them up very occasionally but Scarpa has stopped making them! The only shoe i've had as good as them were my old Anasazi Pinks!

GB
torquil on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to charliehl: Glad you liked them charlie, do bear in mind that it may take a few sessions for the new rubber to shape to your foot again.

Now with any luck it will rain over the long weekend and I can catch up with the backlog that built up during the amazing weather. Great to finally climb some of the slow-to-dry classics though!
highclimber - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to torquil: Hi torquil, My mate mentioned he had a few pairs he wanted resoling and I recommended you so he's gonna send them to me to drop off.
torquil on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber: Great, keep them coming!
charliehl - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber: Used my resoled Shamans today. Very pleased. Top work Torquil.
Have a great weekend

Charlie
Fiskavaig on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to torquil: I have a pair coming up for resole and rand repair, this will be the third resole, i will give you a try.
hedgehog77 - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber: absolutely brilliant service will defo use again.
Iwan - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to torquil:

Got any rubber suitable for my Fire Classics??
janegallwey - on 02 Jun 2012
I've a totally beat pair of red chili spirits, just wondering would it be possible to resole them with 5mm rubber even though they're probably beyond the point of even having a shape anymore?
Cheers,
Jane
cha1n on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber:

Have you got any xs grip yet? Thanks.
torquil on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to Iwan:
> (In reply to torquil)
>
> Got any rubber suitable for my Fire Classics??

5.10 Stealth C4 will be perfect for the Fire's. I was wondering if there would still be any of these around! I keep wishing I'd hung on to my EB's...
torquil on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to cha1n:
> (In reply to highclimber)
>
> Have you got any xs grip yet? Thanks.

The distributor says it's arriving this week but as it involves the usual Italian efficiency I'd not put money on that.

torquil on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to janegallwey:
> I've a totally beat pair of red chili spirits, just wondering would it be possible to resole them with 5mm rubber even though they're probably beyond the point of even having a shape anymore?

The rand on the spirits (and similar red chili's) seem to stretch loads more than other shoes, if the sides have bagged out way past the sole it hard to put a good shape back on them. This is the main thing that makes a resole tricky (more so than a huge hole in the toe). That combined with the fact you can normally pick up Spirits for about £40 online in a sale and I'd say it worth thinking hard about.

On the other side of the argument, if they are shoes you really love as the fit has changed to suit your foot well then I'd say it worth a resole.

janegallwey - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to torquil:
I quite like them, the shape has stretched out to maximum comfort - and its still cheaper than buying new ones. They're only used for aid climbing, so if I can climb a grade or two better in them than in guide tennies its all good.
Now what's the best way to wash shoes before sending them to you?
torquil on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to janegallwey:

> Now what's the best way to wash shoes before sending them to you?

I'd always stick to a hand wash, warm soapy water and a tooth brush (an old one preferably) to clean out inside around the toes, and don't put them on a hot radiator to dry. The adhesive used in climbing shoes is heat sensitive so with a very hot radiator or hot machine wash you risk de-lamination.

Thats just my opinion, I know some people do use the washing machine and get away with it but personally I don't.
auld al on 05 Jun 2012
In reply to highclimber: chesire's cheaper if you need a rand patch too http://www.cheshireshoe.co.uk/rockboots.asp
torquil on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to auld al:

In reply to auld al:
> chesire's cheaper if you need a rand patch too

Quite true auld al, thanks for pointing it out and giving me the chance to respond.

I did want to keep my prices below his but £25 and £35 is just how it has worked out now I have had time to really see how long it takes and what all the true costs involved are.

I'm still the cheapest for a sole only (or for sole and rand if you are dropping off at V12, ie no postage costs, which is a large part of my business). Still cheaper than Feet First and LSR on every count too.

To begin with I felt that as I've just started out I couldn't charge as much as the others! However the feedback I've been getting so far (including from strong local climbers who's opinion counts for a lot to me) has been so encouraging I felt I was able to charge a fair rate.

I know I'll loose some trade to Cheshire for the extra few pounds, I accept that. I also know I've picked up lots of trade from him and the others resolers, particularly with performance shoes where people haven't been happy with the results before.
hannahh on 09 Jun 2012
Torquil, can you do extra sole adaptations? I need medial heel wedges putting on my shoes a well as a resole. Thanks, Hannah
Big Steve - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to torquil: Are you able to repair extremely worn out shoes? My favourite shoes (yes, I know I should have done something about it earlier) now have a 1cm round hole in the rand. I have gone through the rubber rand and the leather or suede fabric. My toes touch rock! thats the right foot, the left foot also has a hole but much smaller. Are these still saveable?
The soles are ok, I havent gone through them yet
torquil on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to hannahh: Sorry hannahh i'm not really set up for that, I'd probably try Lancashire Sports Repair.
torquil on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to Big Steve:
> (In reply to torquil) Are you able to repair extremely worn out shoes?

Probably, but best to email me a photo first. If they are that bad I'd say you'd need a strong emotional attachment to the shoes to make it worth while :)
Big Steve - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to torquil: ok, I'll take some snaps and email you, thanks
torquil on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to cha1n:
> (In reply to highclimber)
>
> Have you got any xs grip yet?

Yes, XS Grip in stock now (3.5mm)



Bertbee - on 07 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber:

Another thumbs up for Torquil at Llanberis Resoles.
The rubber went through to the rand on my Katanas, a week before I'm off on a week long climbing trip.

He bumped my shoes up the queue (sorry everyone else!), sent me two texts to let me know he had received the shoes and done the job, and managed to resole the shoes and send them out within 24hours. Amazing service and peace of mind.

I've not been able to test them out yet - twisted ankle! - but his communication and general service was top notch.

Will give some more feedback after a week climbing in them!
highclimber - on 07 Jul 2012
In reply to Bertbee: so far I have been very impressed by my resoles.
torquil on 07 Jul 2012
Everyone seems to be wanting shoes done to go off on trips at the moment, making me dead jealous!!!

...a few pairs are in Lofoten now, some others en route to an expedition in Greenland, had some good pics back from Ceuse, some bouldering in Switzerland etc etc

Oh well, if I'm lucky I may squeeze a couple of pitches in on the slate between showers this week.
toeshurtN8 - on 09 Jul 2012
You did a have job with my shoes Torquil! They are excellent, resole and rand fix for muiras VS. really good job thanks! i will recommend you to everyone i know
astley007 - on 21 Jul 2012
In reply to torquil:
F*ckin @ell Torquill, what a service!!! only posted my katanas to you on tues, they were back on friday!! with a fantastic job done, used them today a longridge and they were great, will use them at stoney tomorrow!!
Thanks for great turnround
Cheers
Nick B (Bond not Band) lol
Steve Clegg - on 21 Jul 2012
In reply to astley007:
Ah, yes Mr Bond. I've been expecting you. Do my T Rocks need re-soling yet??
Clegg
astley007 - on 22 Jul 2012
In reply to Steve Clegg:
No Steve not yet!!!
But they do need paying for!!!!!!
they worked really well on Moonraker and I lived and didnt die!!!
see you next week!!!
Nick
ads.ukclimbing.com
NottsRich on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber: Another vote for Torquil. Very fast service and good quality.
Voltemands - on 08 Aug 2012
In reply to torquil: Have only just remembered to leave some feedback.

Great price, quality and speedy service. Torquil's work not only revived the toe rubber but the fit as well! Fit as new. Will definitely use again.

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