/ Escaping Bosigran Ridge
I'm not a massively experienced climber, but have felt comfortable on any VD I've led, I will be there with an inexperienced climber (my wife) she's not a very confident or strong climber.
Looking at the guidebook there seems to be any easy way off the climb all the way up by heading off the side to the grassy slope. is it so in practise?
Also, would time be a factor? as if my second is faffing about and taking her time will we struggle to finish it, especially if she gets too tired.
After that pitch however you could wander at will. The grassy slab is in fact that. Walkable in fact. I found a "Gem" size 8 I think, on my first go up the route. It was the best bit of kid I had for ages on my rack. Lost it in Swanage when I dropped most of my kit in a car park I suspect.
Anyway, fantastic route, go and do it.
As said above, only P1 is inescapable: however much of the climbing thereafter traverses various pinnacles, and there is also some down climbing involved so you need to be canny with your protection.
The other caveat for The Ridge is the state of the sea. To get to the belay ledge at the start you have to cross a sloping platform at lowish tides and a calm sea.
That said it's a great expedition and you will both enjoy it.
I'd have few worries with the start (if the sea isnt an issue) for an inexperienced second but some of those traverse pitches (especially the descending ones) are pretty serious even if the moves are not too hard. I'm amazed people would recommend this for a novice to second on their own. It would be much more sensible with an experienced climber behind as well as in front. Its also a big tick for some and very popular so having a picnic on a route with a big group is a bit boorish (unless you let others through).
> I'd have few worries with the start (if the sea isnt an issue) for an inexperienced second but some of those traverse pitches (especially the descending ones) are pretty serious even if the moves are not too hard. I'm amazed people would recommend this for a novice to second on their own.
Absolutely: I would recommend something like Black Slab first. Great position, especially if there's a big swell, good gear and comfortably big holds. For multi-pitch at the grade, Land's End Long Climb, without the leaps is a possible alternative or Terrier's Tooth with the easier first pitch.
If the conditions are anything like this i`d take her to do something else!
At 2 mins 50 secs on the video you can see the steep exposed pitch and to get to this point you will have to traverse out of her sight from the front of the ridge.
again sorry and no offence, it is a great route and i hope you enjoy it if you do give it ago, but i wouldnt recomend it as a pair (if you could team up with an experienced pair and move together then that would be a different matter)
At that time she had done some trad and a fair bit of sport and could climb about 6c so I knew she was capable but the exposure still spooked her. It's a great route and you know your wife best-will she hold it against you forever?
> I'd have few worries with the start (if the sea isnt an issue) for an inexperienced second but some of those traverse pitches (especially the descending ones) are pretty serious even if the moves are not too hard. I'm amazed people would recommend this for a novice to second on their own. It would be much more sensible with an experienced climber behind as well as in front.
Black Slab tends to have too many queues.. after my last trip I'd recommend this in the next bay to the east...
probably as quick as getting to Black Slab, no queues, super soft grades and no bad step on the approach or dodgy gully descent.
I agree, Halldrine is an excellent novice area, but in my experience Black Slab attracts nothing like the queues around Alison Rib/Oread, or The Ridge for that matter.
The "Bad Step" is indeed tricky but a top rope or long sling is simple enough to set up, alternatively one can abseil/down climb the easy angled slab dividing the seaward cliff from the Raven's Wall sector. There is a plan to stabilise the path to the seaward cliff. Much of the erosion is caused by water from the spring that emerges from the gully above. Properly channelled this will help to prevent further erosion. Any remedial work will have to be done with the agreement of the NT who own this section of the coast.
I do think there's a danger here of overstating the difficulties on Bosigran Ridge: the route is always a popular choice on the annual CC Family Meet when it is climbed by all ages and abilities. Treated like a classic mountain ridge and with some imagination on the part of the leader in placing protection and belay positions there should be no need for an epic.
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