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Topic - bolt spacingat Penmaen Head

colin struthers - on 20 May 2012
Had a pleasant afternoon at Penmaen Head yesterday - as a mid grade sport crag it really is an excellent venue.

That said, we finished on 3 routes on Expressway Way:

'Fathers for Justice' which I felt was adequately bolted

'The Quarry Woman' which had unecessarily long run outs which I felt detracted from the quality of the route


'That's enough new routes for now' which I declined to lead because I think it has a potential ground fall from 20'

Unfortunately these are by no means the only routes at Penmaen head with questionable bolt spacing.

This is not a criticism of any of the first ascentionists who have done an excellent job in developing such a fine crag. However, I personally think it is time to review some of the routes that we now have.

Deciding where to place bolts after you have already inspected or top roped the route (which is the norm with sport routes) is difficult and sometimes it is only with hindsight that you realise that you might have placed them differently. We now have that hindsight and I think Penmaen Head could be an even better place if we selectively added a few bolts or changed the relative position of existing bolts (I appreciate this latter option can be a bit of a ball ache).

So what does everyone think?


PS please don't take this as a typical wingeing UKC type post, I hope I'm making these comments in a positive and constructive way.

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