/ Cloggy advice

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Owen W-G - on 23 May 2012
Thinking of getting up there on Sunday
Hopefully will have had 5 days of spanking sunshine
How dry do you think it would be?

Only been once before 7 years ago (did Sheaf) so lots to do, mostly E2.
On the hit list are:

Vember
Octo
Shrike
White Slab
Jelly Roll
Silhouette
Pinnacle Arete

Which are the most amenable of the list? My partner leads up to VS so which routes have good pitches for him to lead?

Vember Iím guessing might well be wet, but had thought of it in combo with Shrike.
Also looks a bit strenuous for the first pitch, might need some warming up (although the walk in might sort that)

White Slab might be a bit complicated (lassoing) for a first trip.
conorcussell - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G: Planning on heading up sometime from Sunday-Tuesday as well! I'm thinking it will be pretty dry by then if the forecast is right.

Only done White Slab, the first pitch is not a very nice one to second, especially for a VS leader. Other than that it's fine, you don't need to bother with the lassoing, it's easy for 5c and not really worth the hassle. The 5a pitch above is very bold though so probably best not the best for your partner.

I'd say its very amenable and maybe E1. But maybe not for an unequal partnership if your partner wants to lead some pitches.

Maybe see you there!
Robert Durran - on 23 May 2012
In reply to conorcussell:
> Only done White Slab...... you don't need to bother with the lassoing, it's easy for 5c and not really worth the hassle.

Faffed ariund for ages trying to lassoo the wrong non-spike last summer (it's not obvious!). Going diagonally up and across without lassooing seemed ridiculous for E1 (bottled it), and eventually traversed hard right to good gear and then up (fine for E1) - is this the normal way? All seemed very puzzling.
Stig - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G: I'm planning to go on Friday and sat. If you like you can pm me your mobile and I will text you conditions. I have no doubt plenty will be dry though. Check out the list at the start of the guide for what does and doesn't dry out quickly.

I won't be doing Vember it looks shit. Jelly roll, silhouette, shrike, troach, Capricorn all on the list.

White slab apparently takes a while to dry. It is the only route I have done though and we gave up on lassoing and just climbed it. I don't think a vs leader could take any of the pitches.
Stig - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: That's because it's E2 not E1.
John2 - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: I thought the spike was pretty obvious - it's not huge, maybe the size of a pint glass, but it's sharply pointed and the rope sits behind it very securely once you finally lassoo it. My problem was that I was so excited when I finally got it that I nearly fell off the balancey foothold that I was lassooing from.
Al Randall on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G: It depends upon the style of climbing that you like. Not done Silhouette but I would say White Slab is the most amenable(note that I did not say easiest)of the others. The upper pitches are VS. BETA ALERT: The trick with the spike is to not actually try and lasso it as such. Instead take several loose coils and throw them above the spike and let them fall down on to it.

Al
Captain Gear - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:

I did Jelly Roll, earlier in the year. It is an excellent route with three contrasting and brilliant pitches.

Looking down at the blank Indian Face from the top of the top groove is awesome.

Blog about it: http://www.tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/in-summer-time.html

Vember is ok, but not a patch on Jelly Roll.

Troach is excellent, but pretty goey for E2.

White Slab is brilliant. The bottom pitch is pokey and make sure you don't stray on to the Redhead Direct higher up.

I tried Octo after Jelly Roll, but it looked hard and we were hungry so we ran away.

Not done Strike yet, but when I do I'll be getting up at 5am to catch it in the morning sun.
Robert Durran - on 23 May 2012
In reply to John2:
> (In reply to Robert Durran) I thought the spike was pretty obvious.

Oh well. I thought it was anything but (until I actually reached it and found it about 5 metres away from the thing we had spent a couple of hours trying to lassoo!). Overall, I though White Slab pretty hard for E1. The way we eventually did the lassoo pitch was probably the fourth hardest pitch (which is why I wondered whether we had done it the "proper" way).
Robert Durran - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:

Shouldn't November be on your list? I thought it was utterly brilliant (all three pitches, not just the main one).
Robert Durran - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Stig:
> (In reply to Robert Durran) That's because it's E2 not E1.

Is it E2 in the guidebook? I don't think so. I certainly wouldn't argue with E2 though.

Captain Gear - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

E1 in the Paul Williams.

E2 in the Nick Dixon.

I thought the bottom pitch was most serious.
Stig - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: It was E1 with a point of aid, pendulum on the spike. E2 in both current guides. As, indeed, it is.
Robert Durran - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Stig:
> (In reply to Robert Durran) It was E1 with a point of aid, pendulum on the spike. E2 in both current guides. As, indeed, it is.

I stand corrected (and agree with E2!).

Chad123 - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:

Only done four routes at Cloggy but they were all brilliant, Vember is pretty cool, better than people above seem to think but agree Jelly Roll is better with a memorable top pitch. Troach is excellent and technically easier than Jelly Roll but bolder. Great Wall trumps them all and is soft for grade but then a bit hard for your mate if he leads VS....
Mark Stevenson - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G: A top tip for White Slab - read the current Cloggy guidebook in detail and don't do Redhead's Direct E4 6a by mistake!

**3b Redhead's Direct 45m. E4 6a. From the spike at 20 metres, step right and climb directly up the centre of the slab (thin, sustained, and poorly protected) to reach the security of the lasso spike - an oft-attempted pitch mainly by off route leaders

It is absolutely desperate and probably one of the scariest bit of climbing I've ever done! Although with nearly 5 years hindsight it probably does deserve it's 2 stars...
Owen W-G - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:

Thanks all.
Jelly Roll I reckon it is.
Good gear?
Strenous?
Tough first pitch?

Cloggy is one of these crags where it is quite difficult to warm up, unless you want to spend hours doing some other route.
johnyo - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:

I have just been up there today and generally I would say everything out on the faces (Troach, Scorpio etc) is bone dry with bits of seepage and damp spots in the corners and cracks, Eg. Jelly Roll and November. We did the Leech and Pinnacle Arete other teams were on Lithrig, Shrike and a team further over in White Slab vicinity.
Absolutely stunning day and pleasantly warm for once! Things should have dried up a lot more by the weekend.
highclimber - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Owen W-G: The walk-in IS the warm up!
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dwb - on 24 May 2012
In reply to Stig: Vember looks shit? How do you expect to get to Jelly roll with out doing half of vember(usually the wet bit)?

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